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I was looking around at the state by state law listing on the AHA main site and I realized there is no info for the unincorporated territories. Does anyone know what the state of Homebrew laws are there?
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cool. I might try this next time I sparge. would make for less energy spent overall in the brewday.
**EDIT TO ADD** Ugh I just realized the terrible pun in the above comment, I apologize to all!
I see it as an academic exercise. Since you still have to bring the wort (which will be at a lower temp) up to a boil it seems like you'd use the same amount of energy.
Agreed. I'm not disputing that barley has proteins, just that wheat has a different type of protein with a higher molecular weight called gluten that barley does not. It changes the game in regards to foam stability in a way that CP can not because it lacks gluten. Check it out...
Yes, wheat has gluten. Can you explain to me why it makes a difference?
Nope. Not a chemist. But since it has a higher molecular weight than the proteins in barley it stands to reason that it will have a different effect on the foam stability of the beer. Therefore, and to my only point, wheat will have a different effect on foam stability than CP.
I have some time this afternoon so I'll research this further and round back.
you don't have to heat your sparge water but hot sparge water seems to extract a lot more sugar from the grain so using cooler water tends to result in lower lauter efficiency.
That's not what Kai found....
I want to follow up on this sparge temp issue. Clearly the previous posters who said that tannin extraction is due to pH are correct. But I would argue that it is also a function of temperature. According to a number of brewing experts (Palmer, et al.) one should not sparge with water over 170* specifically to avoid tannin extraction.
Now I am fairly sure that the experienced brewer who monitors the mash pH, can and does (as you have said you do) avoid tannin extraction above that temp. What I am saying is that this practice should probably be left to those experienced brewers who know for sure it will work - but not for the new brewer nor should it be communicated that this is a general rule.
For the average home brewer the extremely small cost associated with the increase in efficiency is basically of no value, but the safety in being sure to avoid tannin extraction would be far more important IMO.
I hesitated in saying the above for a couple of days because I am not what I would call an expert home brewer, and as a consequence usually defer to those with more knowledge and experience... But I think I'm right on this point. However, as always I am open to being corrected.
Steve, you can look at it this way...if your pH is good, you can sparge with water much hotter than 170 with no ill effects. After all, if it was temp alone, decoction mashes wouldn't be done.But if your pH is off, it won't matter much what temp water you sparge with...you'll still risk tannins.
Since I don't have any way to check pH I try and keep my sparge temps. under 170f just to be on the safe side. But your saying it doesn't make a differance?
I know this is off the original topic but these these responses really sparked my interest...assuming we control the pH of the mash, and we're only sparging, why heat up sparge water at all? I've always heard we should have sparge water around 170 but never above that temp for all the reasons listed in previous responses...but if the core of this thread is saying water temp doesn't matter for tannin issues why bother with heating sparge water?
I just want to clarify that the paint mixer would be used on the finished wort after the brewing session. To me this seems like nothing but win. Please tell me if this is a bad idea.
nasty, skunked, oxidized beer
It's really hard to make good beer and a good small volume starter at the same time. The needs of the two objectives are too different.
I thought the same thing, but I am assuming this was not a stirred starter.
Correct. This was not stirred.
This is interesting. I just tried bottling a cider i FCd at around 3 volumes. i lost alot of cider due to foaming over. I tried it at 8psi and tried it at next to nothing. Still got alot of blowoff till the last few bottles, it seemed to settle down. Getting ready to force a Gratzer at 3.5 volumes. what the heck?Sorry if this is too obvious, but did you blow off the excess pressure when you set the gauge for bottling? Mine has a one-way valve, so I need to use the PRV to vent the headspace, the pressure in the keg won't leak out through the gauge. It would explain why it settled down when you got to the bottom of the keg.
$180 for two - $90 each. or $335 for 4 - $83 each.Yeah. Mine all work, but some have oddball parts and they are not pretty. The cheapest new kegs I've seen were $180 for a 2/pack. If I had to do it over again, I'd strongly consider that over ordering used kegs off the internet. I'm sure you get the stock nobody wanted to buy in the store when you do that.
is that 180 for two kegs? or 180 each if you buy two? If the former please post your source!
With plastic bottoms - $195 for 2.
Yeah. Mine all work, but some have oddball parts and they are not pretty. The cheapest new kegs I've seen were $180 for a 2/pack. If I had to do it over again, I'd strongly consider that over ordering used kegs off the internet. I'm sure you get the stock nobody wanted to buy in the store when you do that.
Amazing that a thread about siphoning has gone on for 5 pages so far.
Must be a LOT of cold weather keeping people inside...