Recent Posts

51

Equipment and Software / Re: New MT ordered

« Last post by klickitat jim on May 19, 2013, 09:14:30 am »

Nice to be able to start boil number one and mash number two at the same time!

First no sparge worked just fine. 9 gallons and 11 pounds MO, I had 5.2 ph at ten minutes and started my boil with 7 gallons of 1.040!

52

Homebrew Clubs / Re: Newbie Here

« Last post by denny on May 19, 2013, 08:57:25 am »

so keep my temp in the upper 60's? 

What Drew said....54-59F.

53

Homebrew Clubs / Re: Newbie Here

« Last post by dbeechum on May 19, 2013, 08:56:08 am »

~54-59F

54

Homebrew Clubs / Re: Newbie Here

« Last post by shane70 on May 19, 2013, 08:55:59 am »

If you want to use the dorm fridge to control your temps most folks use something like this: http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/johnson-controls-a419-digital-temp-controller.html

I have the Ranco 111000 (digital) and may use temp controllers for Johnson Controls (often analogue).

They are snap to use if you buy them prewired.  If you are handy with a screw driver and not scarred off by electricity, they are cheaper as controller only and you wire them in yourself.

Paul

Thanks. I do like this Idea. If I can get the bucket and also the carboy in my fridge, I will use this... Otherwise I may have to go with the cooler idea

55

Homebrew Clubs / Re: Newbie Here

« Last post by shane70 on May 19, 2013, 08:52:17 am »

so keep my temp in the upper 60's? 

Look at the packet of yeast, what type is it?
Does it say to pitch and or ferment at a certain temp?

This is my Yeast. Looks like for lager. As for temp, it shows 12-15C ?? What is that in Fahrenheit. Also it says for 20 liters of beer. Is that 5 gallons?

FYI- It also comes with Briess dried malt extract ( 2 lbs), Crushed Pilsen malt, Crushed Carapils Malt, Priming Sugar, 3 bags of .5 oz hop pellets, grain bag and Pilsen Light Pure Malt extract (concentrated Brewers Wort).

56

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My Water Report

« Last post by mabrungard on May 19, 2013, 08:50:36 am »

Its not the ratio, its the difference in the cation and anion totals.  You are good to go.  That is a lightly mineralized water and it doesn't take much to throw the difference off. 

57

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Ideal bottle conditioning temp

« Last post by jamminbrew on May 19, 2013, 08:40:41 am »

The warmer the "room temp" is, the faster they will carbonate. I store mine in the storage room that houses my furnace. It stays at 70* pretty much year round. I find most of my beers are carbed in 1-2 weeks. I usually start drinking them before the two week mark, and they are well carbed.

58

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sage in White IPA

« Last post by BarleynYeast on May 19, 2013, 08:30:08 am »

I have a Belgium blond that I use sage in. I julienne about 1 leaf per gallon and add it at flame out. ( I  do a 15 minute whirlpool and it takes about 10 minutes after that to cool my wort.) It is not over powering, more of an interesting background note that you wonder what it is. Really goes well with chicken and pork!   

59

Kegging and Bottling / Ideal bottle conditioning temp

« Last post by flbrewer on May 19, 2013, 08:16:50 am »

Yes, referring to bringing the beer up to carb.

60

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: dry yeast temp shock

« Last post by bigchicken on May 19, 2013, 07:28:30 am »

Pay attention to your sanitation and they can sit there basically indefinitely. If you're getting antsy you can also attemper the yeast by adding a little cool wort, stirring, and repeating a few times.

+1
I rehydrate in a glass or measuring cup. I cover the top with plastic wrap and often let it set 1-2 hours. I sanitize whatever its in.