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Igloo conversion question

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joshuapfitzpatrick:
I bought two used 5 gallon igloo coolers off Craigs, cleaned them with oxyclean, sprayed it with bleach cleaner, had it blessed by a Rabbi, and I'll be using starsan pretty soon. After spending two hours at Ace looking for the right parts I'm 90% done.
The set up goes like this:
Copper lines -> Brass Nut -> O-ring || cooler |Rubber Washer| Spacer -> Valve -> Nipple
Question 1
On the inside of the cooler, between the cooler wall and the o-ring. If their is any cracks or space water can get through and fluid will go into the cooler body thus introducing contaminants. Any ideas on a food safe rubber washer that would be better for this application? (the original washer from the igloo is not an option at this point)
Question 2
Are black rubber O-rings safe for brewing? This is the same kind used in sink applications.
Question 3
Has anyone tried NOT welding the copper pipes together? Now hear me out on this. The reason we weld is so it doesn't leak... We are also cutting dozens of slits in the copper so leaking is not only okay, it's encouraged. Unless a pipe came fully disconnected then in theory everything should be just dandy.

As of now Yes it holds water quite well.

http://imgur.com/a/AftsD#dSZmY

Joe Sr.:
A mini-keg stopper/bung should fit perfectly in the hole in the cooler.  Your copper line can run right through the middle of it.

I've found them at Midwest Brewing Supplies, there's probably other places.

Put some silicone or something on it if you feel you need to, but it should hold without it.

davidgzach:
I couldn't find food grade silicone by me so I found and used WaterWeld.  It's resistent to 300F, and drinking water safe.  I used it in my MT and HLT with great success.  Home Depot and/or Lowes should have it.

Dave

 

boapiu:
See this topic

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=12531.0

Slowbrew:
In answer to the copper pipes question; I'm assuming you are talking about your manifold and there isn't any need to solder the connections.  When I used a copper manifold I never soldered it because it made cleaning easier if I could take it apart.  The seams will just act as more places the mash can filter through.

Many on here (including) me will suggest that you use a braid instead of a manifold if you are going to batch sparge.  If you're going to fly sparge then you are fine with a manifold.

+1 on the ways people have suggested to seal up the port.

Paul

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