Kind of a Brutus 10 clone with RIMS, but it works for me

[dean_palmer]

Pretty standard....
3 banjo burners, one high power under the brew kettle, manual control for propane, PID control for electric.
50amp back to back control panel for electric, runs 2 vessels at a time.
5500w 240v elements for the kettle and HLT, 4500w in the RIMS tube.
Brewers Hardware RIMS tube mounted between mash tun and brew kettle, using Ranco controller
2 March 809 pumps with 815 impellers, one with Chugger stainless head.
2 Blichmann Therminator chillers
Brewers Hardware trub/hop filter canister
Mash Tun has a Sabco false bottom
Inline thermometer and oxygen stone after the chillers

I will weld up similar racks for local folks.

Just added the Stout Tanks 20 Gallon conical and kettle.


50amp, with 3 elements, one in the HLT, Boil, and one in the RIMS tube. PID controllers. It will run any 2 elements at once but with 50A can't have all three at once at least on full, maybe on "maintain." Credit to Kai from The Electric Brewery for most of the guidance.

[davidgzach]

Nice set up!  Jealous....

[dcbc]

Nice looking setup, Dean!

[jeffy]

Very nice, Dean.  And you just made that stand last week, too.  Some people have way too much energy.

Do you chill the wort through two therminators directly to the fermenters?  If so, do you have one running ground water and one with ice water?

[dean_palmer]

Very nice, Dean.  And you just made that stand last week, too.  Some people have way too much energy.

Do you chill the wort through two therminators directly to the fermenters?  If so, do you have one running ground water and one with ice water?

Hi Jeff :-)

Yeah, I welded this just over a week ago to get all the components up off the ground after so many years :-) Bought a new welder so I had motivation.

As for the chilling, I typically recirculate through chiller #1 with tap water, back to the kettle until the temp reaches about 100f. Then I swap out the garden hose with a submersible pump in ice water and keep recirculating until the kettle temp is near pitching (the output of the chiller typical 50-60F once ice water is connected), then pump to the fermenter. This way I hope to leave behind a lot more small particulate.

When I want to save time over wort clarity I hook the two chillers inline and can pump wort at pitch temps directly to the fermenter. I can also do this and recirculate to drop the kettle temps faster but it uses more ice.

I try not to use both for the wort loss, but with larger batches in the summer they are awesome together.

I'm currently waiting on a new 20g kettle from Stout Tanks, so 15g batches will become typical and the extra chill power will be welcome.

[jeffy]

Very nice, Dean.  And you just made that stand last week, too.  Some people have way too much energy.

Do you chill the wort through two therminators directly to the fermenters?  If so, do you have one running ground water and one with ice water?

Hi Jeff :-)

Yeah, I welded this just over a week ago to get all the components up off the ground after so many years :-) Bought a new welder so I had motivation.

As for the chilling, I typically recirculate through chiller #1 with tap water, back to the kettle until the temp reaches about 100f. Then I swap out the garden hose with a submersible pump in ice water and keep recirculating until the kettle temp is near pitching (the output of the chiller typical 50-60F once ice water is connected), then pump to the fermenter. This way I hope to leave behind a lot more small particulate.

When I want to save time over wort clarity I hook the two chillers inline and can pump wort at pitch temps directly to the fermenter. I can also do this and recirculate to drop the kettle temps faster but it uses more ice.

I try not to use both for the wort loss, but with larger batches in the summer they are awesome together.

I'm currently waiting on a new 20g kettle from Stout Tanks, so 15g batches will become typical and the extra chill power will be welcome.

That's pretty much the same way I do it, too.  Run the wort through the heat exchanger back to the kettle at an angle that creates a whirlpool until the temp is down to 80 or so, then switch to ice water to get the rest of the way.
I just got a Blichmann Therminator and used it for the first time this past weekend.  Works very well, but it still takes a while (45 minutes?) to cool the whole batch in the kettle before going to the fermenters.

[dean_palmer]

I just got a Blichmann Therminator and used it for the first time this past weekend.  Works very well, but it still takes a while (45 minutes?) to cool the whole batch in the kettle before going to the fermenters.

I'll have to time it next brew and make specific notes as I don't recall it taking half that much time even on a single unit. I'm running the water full blast and the wort pump the same (as wort conditions allow). I've had these chillers for some years now and they have been great, but I have recently added a trub/hop filter (Brewers Hardware) as they did tend to collect debris on some sessions.

[ckpash88]

I assuming that the ranco controller controls the heat element in the rims tube?

Do you have any controls for modulating the element on and off or do the wires from the controller go straight on the leads for the element?


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[ckpash88]

Bc my thought is to use a johnson control system like you use on fridge for temp control to control a 120 volt gas selnoid valve. The control would power the valve to modulate the gas on and off to a burner to adjust temp. when mashing.

[bluesman]

Very nice looking brewstand!  I'm sure you will be happy with the results.

[redbeerman]

Nice!

[dean_palmer]

Just added the pic of the new 20 gallon kettle and conical. Probably going with the same company to replace the mash tun and HLT soon!

[thebigbaker]

Great looking setup and nice addition w/ the stout tank and conical!

[1vertical]

So shiney....great on my eyes  !

[dean_palmer]

I assuming that the Ranco controller controls the heat element in the rims tube?

Do you have any controls for modulating the element on and off or do the wires from the controller go straight on the leads for the element?

 
<edit> just installed the full electric panel with 240v for all elements and PID control.