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Going Electric

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hairodadog:
Hello All,

I've been brewing for about 2.5yrs, first extract kits, then after about a year tried AG using BIAB method on a propane burner. I've been thinking about upgrading some equipment and was looking at going electric. having the option to brew inside again is really appealing. Since I'm upgrading anyway, I thought I'd look into brewing more traditionally, HLT/Mash tun... HERMS, etc.

I've been saving up so cost really isn't the issue (to a point... like when SWMBO sees the $$$) and have decided to buy rather than build, but was wondering about some of the "extras" like an autosparge or plate chiller. Are they worth it?

My wort chiller does a pretty good job cooling 5G batches, not sure how it would do with 10G, making plate better option.
And since I haven't sparged, wondering if the auto sparge will save me a headache or is just a neat toy and a waste of $$$.

yso191:
I can't speak to the auto sparge since I don't have one and would probably batch sparge even if I did.  However I will say that I really like my plate chiller.  It is much quicker than my old immersion chiller, but the main reason I like it is that the wort goes from hot enough to kill any airborne bugs, to pitching temperature in a closed system.  I know the chance of an infection while chilling with an immersion chiller is small, my strategy is to remove all the small chances so they don't add up to a good chance.

Steve

weithman5:




This is my 4g kettle with a 1500 watt element. no controllers needed as total output is just about right.  i am contemplating making a 6g with a 2kw element.  i mash in a bag.  (use cooler with the grain in a fine grain bag) makes it very easy.  with the 6 g kettle it is a INUSA brand seafood steamer with a ledge in it for the tray.  if the element will fit under the tray i will make it.

mabrungard:
I'm not surprised with Don's findings that 1500 w is about right for 5 gal.  I have up to 5500w in my kettle, but I have a pulse width modulator.  It helps to be able to turn up the heat input while the wort is heating, but the wort would literally jump out of the kettle if I left that much power delivered to the boil.  It was impressive the only time I did it!!! 

I don't know how much wattage I actually deliver when I'm boiling gently.  I suppose I could observe the amount of time the element is on versus off when the PWM is operating and then figure out what the average wattage is.  I wouldn't be surprised if it was around the 1500w mark.

weithman5:
it is somewhat fortunate.  i was just experimenting with the kettle (3 bucks at good will) and the element. i just wanted to get something going and i didn't want to spend the time building a pwm or setting up any automatic controls.  i went with the 1500 over the 2000 just to limit the demand on my household circuit.  i think increasing to the 2000 would only just increase my boil off at this point.

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