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1997 Alaskan Smoked Porter
Juneau, Alaska
BJCP Category: 22B Other Smoked Beer
Alaskan Brewing Co. <visit site>
43
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[expand]Total Score: 45/50
Very smooth and drinkable. Rich complexity comes through as a greater depth of character. Smokiness is still very evident but the underlying beer is able to poke though. more >
[close]Total Score: 45/50
Aroma: Faint smokiness with complex prune and sweet cherry esters and roasted and caramel malt backbone. Low diacetyl. Low alcohol with slight sherry notes. No hop aroma. By comparison the smokiness has faded and mellowed over time, creating a rich depth to the aroma. (10/12)
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Appearance: Deep brown to black—appropriate to style. Opaque—OK. Thin head dissipates rather quickly. Well carbonated—CO2 breaking up the foam stand. By comparison head retention isn’t quite as good as the 2005 vintage and a bit higher carbonation, but these are not problems. (3/3)
Flavor: Smokiness and coffee-like, sweet maltiness well balanced with the medium hop bitterness. Aftertaste is a very nice complex combination of cherry and plum esters, sweet malt and hints of sherry to enhance the experience. Some lingering bitterness blends well also. Overall there’s a great, smooth complexity to the flavor. (17/20)
Mouthfeel: Medium to medium-full body. Smooth mouthfeel with some alcohol warming. No astringency. By comparison to 2005, this vintage has much smoother mouthfeel with essentially the same body character. (5/5)
Overall Impression: Very smooth and drinkable. Rich complexity comes through as a greater depth of character. Smokiness is still very evident but the underlying beer is able to poke though. By comparison, this vintage has smoothed out the rough edges and mellowed to create a more balanced beer with greater complexity. The smoke is more subtle and the robust porter presents more assertively. (10/10) -
[expand]Total Score: 39/50
I wasn’t sure what to expect from a beer this old, particularly one with a comparatively low gravity to other beers brewed to age. This has developed a wonderfully balanced complexity. more >
[close]Total Score: 39/50
Aroma: Sweet hardwood smoke up front accentuates sherry, caramel maltiness, which complements the smoke and adds complexity. Higher alcohols emerge from the background as the beer warms, as well as a slight metallic oxidation and an earthy component that intrigues. No hop aroma detected. (7/12)
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Appearance: Tan head of medium bubbles forms quickly, then dissipates. No head retention, though tiny bubbles continually rise. Appears black deep brown until held to the light. Deep ruby red and very clear. (2/3)
Flavor: Intensely smoky at first sip, with cream sherry flavors that complement a sweet smoke and roast with crystal malt character. No hop bitterness or flavor. Slight acidity mid-palate reminds me of an aged dark lager. Finishes with a smokiness reminiscent of cedar pencils or kindling just taking flame. Smoke dissipates into the background, allowing a little cardboard to emerge. Complex and balanced, though exhibiting oxidation characteristics I would expect from a nine-year-old beer. (17/20)
Mouthfeel: Prickly carbonation; medium body and alcoholic warmth; some roast astringency. Finishes dry. (4/5)
Overall Impression: I wasn’t sure what to expect from a beer this old, particularly one with a comparatively low gravity to other beers brewed to age. This has developed a wonderfully balanced complexity. The sherry wine-like notes and slight acidity provide the same interesting character as a really good aged barleywine and the drinkability of a fresh dark lager—almost like the rauchbiers! (9/10) -
[expand]Total Score: 44/50
Excellent example of a smoked porter. The base style leans toward the robust variety, but a slightly lower hop bitterness and less astringency would soften the finish and enhance the drinkability. more >
[close]Total Score: 44/50
Aroma: Enticing blend of smoke, toffee and unsweetened chocolate; just a hint of sherry-like oxidation but has held up quite well. The smoke is in perfect balance with the other aroma components. I also pick up a subtle raisin character as it warms, but esters, alcohol and other fermentation characteristics take a back seat to the malt. (11/12)
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Appearance: Tawny brown color, reminiscent of the nicotine-stained woodwork in some European pubs. Excellent clarity, and head retention is decent though not perfect. (3/3)
Flavor: There are many different flavors that assert themselves at different times rather than producing a harmonious blend. Not quite as mellow as one would expect from such a well-aged beer, but it has a very pleasant underlying toffee and chocolate malt character that supports the smokiness. The finish is long and smoky with just enough roast bite to place it in the porter category. Hop bitterness contributes to the slightly astringent finish, and while there is some perceptible alcohol and esters, the focus is on the malt. (17/20)
Mouthfeel: Medium body with some residual sweetness; carbonation is a little low for style but a higher level would likely interfere with the malt. Has a little mouth-coating astringency from the smoked and roasted malts. (4/5)
Overall Impression: Excellent example of a smoked porter. The base style leans toward the robust variety, but a slightly lower hop bitterness and less astringency would soften the finish and enhance the drinkability. This beer has held up very well and was a pleasant surprise. I wish I had a case or two in my cellar. (9/10) -
[expand]Total Score: 45/50
Incredibly well-aged. A smoke-dominated beer but very smooth, not harsh at all. No defects. Great balance of flavors. Wonderful complexity. more >
[close]Total Score: 45/50
Aroma: Big, rich smoke aroma; a clean and pleasant wood smoke, not harsh or charcoal-like. Reminds me of planked or smoked salmon (must be the alder wood). Some chocolate and grainy malt behind smoke, with low esters and sweetness. Aged alcohol and a fleeting hint of floral hops. Nothing off at all. Richness reminiscent of a rauchbier. Smoke dominates and lingers. Very complex and inviting. (11/12)
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Appearance: Opaque. Brownish-black, with garnet highlights at the edges. Moderate-sized tan head, settled slowly. (3/3)
Flavor: Wonderful aged flavors blend seamlessly like in an old Bordeaux. Smoke flavors are complex and multi-layered, but not intense. Moderate bitterness allows the rich, chocolate malt flavors to dominate palate. Moderate earthy hops add to the flavor in the complex and long finish. Very nice range of flavors—aged alcohol and just a hint of esters and sweetness round out the palate. (18/20)
Mouthfeel: Medium-high carbonation. Moderate body. Slight alcohol warmth but oh so smooth. Creamy initially but has a well-conditioned finish. (4/5)
Overall Impression: Incredibly well-aged. A smoke-dominated beer but very smooth, not harsh at all. No defects. Great balance of flavors. Wonderful complexity. Truly a world-class beer. Don’t you dare eat anything with this! Just savor it by itself if you’re lucky enough to find a sample this old. If you’ve got some now, tuck it away for a while. You won’t regret it! (9/10)
