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General Category => Ingredients => Topic started by: weazletoe on September 23, 2012, 08:38:25 PM

Title: Dry hop help
Post by: weazletoe on September 23, 2012, 08:38:25 PM
 I have an IPA on its third day of primary, bubbling nicely. In the next couple days I would like to dry hop it. Its my house IPA,  and I've never dry hopped it before. Suggestions please? My recipe is as follows...

12# 2 row
1# 60*
.75 oz mag @ 60
1 oz cascade @ 45
1 oz cascade @ 30
1 oz cascade@ 5
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: denny on September 23, 2012, 08:55:33 PM
I have an IPA on its third day of primary, bubbling nicely. In the next couple days I would like to dry hop it. Its my house IPA,  and I've never dry hopped it before. Suggestions please? My recipe is as follows...

12# 2 row
1# 60*
.75 oz mag @ 60
1 oz cascade @ 45
1 oz cascade @ 30
1 oz cascade@ 5

First suggestion...wait til it's completely done before you dry hop.  What hop do you want to dry hop with?
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: gymrat on September 23, 2012, 10:32:33 PM
Something new I am trying. An idea I got from someone on another forum. I bought some stainless steel bolts, sanitized them, and put them in the hop sack to hold my hops on the bottom of my fermenter.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: weazletoe on September 24, 2012, 12:01:24 AM
Good call on the bolts. I'll do that. Denny, my obsession with Cascade borders on the erotic, some Cascades it will be. I'm mostly curious how much I should use. When you say fermentation is done, do you mean y FG levels out, and the yeast is on clean up duty, or even after that is done?
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: thebigbaker on September 24, 2012, 01:25:53 AM
You do want to wait until active fermentation is complete.  I usually wait about two weeks, then dry hop for 7 - 10 days.  I use pellet hops and just toss them into the primary fermenter. 
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: hoser on September 24, 2012, 03:06:51 AM
Most commercial brewers (especially Hop Man Matt Brynildson) dry hop in the primary when primary fermentation is within 1 degree Plato of terminal fermentation to scrub out the oxygen off the hops that are present in the pellets or cones.  This is what I commonly do and would recommend if it is possible for you to do.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: brewmasternpb on September 24, 2012, 04:43:27 AM
I've been hearing the "scrubbing" technique as described above.  I also know Brewers who only dry hop for 3-4 days, but I don't see the problem in leaving them for 7 days.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: newrocset on September 24, 2012, 04:48:21 AM
I mostly ferment in glass carboys and wait 'till the Krausen subsides substantially but there are a few bubbles left on top indicating fermentation is slowing down...then I drop my hops in.  I've been using whole leaf hops with nice results, but pellets are fine and a little easier to deal with.  I'm a proponent of letting the hops roam free in the beer, so I don't contain them in any mesh bags or rigs.  I've read that it's best to package after about 4 days of dry hopping, but I always forget to do this....I've had a dry-hopped amber sitting in the carboy for about 3 weeks now, lol!
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: erockrph on September 24, 2012, 12:37:24 PM
I'm a proponent of "free roaming" hops myself. I just chuck the pellets/cones in loose after the krausen has dropped. My dry hops are generally in for 10-15 days and I've never gotten any grassiness. I make sure my beer is at 68F or higher while I'm dry-hopping. I've never done a side-by-side, but I've heard several people say dry-hopping at warmer temps minimizes grassiness.

I have used both whole-cone and pellet hops successfully, and haven't noticed a flavor difference between the two. Because of this, I prefer pellets for dry hopping because you lose less beer. If you use dried whole cones loosely, you may want to allow an extra day or two of contact time, since they tend to float and will take some time to hydrate.

I also make sure to line my bottling bucket with a sanitized paint strainer bag before I rack over. This keeps any hoppy bits from getting in the bottles.

I usually dry-hop at a rate of 2 oz for a Pale Ale or 3-4 oz for an IPA (per 5 gallons). There is definitely a difference between using 1 and 2 oz of dry hops (to my nose at least), but I'm not quite sold yet that there is a huge difference once you go above 2 oz of dry hops.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: weazletoe on September 24, 2012, 03:40:05 PM
Thanks guys. Just the kind of help I was looking for.
Title: Dry hop help
Post by: mpietropaoli on October 06, 2012, 12:27:56 PM
Many ppl, including Denny, say u can skip the weights.  While it might make us feel better, I don't know that it increases the amount of aroma they impart.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: denny on October 06, 2012, 04:21:52 PM
Many ppl, including Denny, say u can skip the weights.  While it might make us feel better, I don't know that it increases the amount of aroma they impart.

Yeah, I've tried with and without and it just didn't seem like the weights really made any difference.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: mikerobrew2354 on October 10, 2012, 05:41:06 PM
Your recipe sounds very similar to a Mirror Pond clone that I do with the exception that Mirror Pond is a single hop Cascade beer. I use 1 oz of Cascade for dry hop and it is pretty dead on to MP. The most I use when dry hopping is 3 oz and that is in my Celebration Ale clone (which is about to be kegged today). I wait about 7 days for fermentation to complete and then drop the hops directly into the carboy for 7 days.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: duboman on October 10, 2012, 09:36:49 PM
I like to dry hop my beers with 2-3oz for a period of 5-7 days and I always use a secondary, it just works for me better:)

I like to use 1 gallon paint strainer bags and I do weight them down with stainless steel bolts. I decided to do this because I found my beer to be clearer, even if I filtered my racking cane. I use the bolts because I was finding that once the hops swelled up they started pushing up into the neck of the carboy and plugging things up.

If you try this a couple tips: Tie the bolts vertically into the bottom of the bag, if they are sideways you'll have a great time trying to get them out the neck. It takes a solid 2-4 heavy bolts to keep the bag submerged, especially if you use whole leaf. Be prepared to lose some final volume as the more you use the more they suck up, especially whole leaf:)

I've not noticed any difference in aroma/flavor in using the bag or not when I used to just let them swim.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: klickitat jim on June 02, 2013, 11:50:45 AM
For a 100 ibu 1.090 beer, Simcoe bitter, cascade flavor, Willamette aroma... would 2 ounces of Willamette in a bag in the keg be enough?
Title: Re: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: erockrph on June 02, 2013, 12:25:03 PM
For a 100 ibu 1.090 beer, Simcoe bitter, cascade flavor, Willamette aroma... would 2 ounces of Willamette in a bag in the keg be enough?

I'd consider 2oz the bare minimum, but that's just my tastes. Personally, I'd do 2 oz each of all 3 hop varieties if it were my beer, but I admit that I have a bit if a hop problem.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: Franklin on June 02, 2013, 12:30:26 PM
Your gonna wish you added more hops....
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: klickitat jim on June 02, 2013, 01:34:08 PM
Mmmk, glad I asked. How about 2 Willamette 2 cascade? Not sure I want Simcoe aroma though I dig them bittering.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: HoosierBrew on June 02, 2013, 01:44:57 PM
For a 100 ibu 1.090 beer, Simcoe bitter, cascade flavor, Willamette aroma... would 2 ounces of Willamette in a bag in the keg be enough?

I'd consider 2oz the bare minimum, but that's just my tastes. Personally, I'd do 2 oz each of all 3 hop varieties if it were my beer, but I admit that I have a bit if a hop problem.
+1.  Me too !    My last IPA had 13 oz total in the recipe.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: klickitat jim on June 02, 2013, 02:02:34 PM
Funny but that's what this one will have now.
2 Simcoe FWH
2 Cascade FWH
1 Sim at 60
2 cascade at 10
2 cascade at FO
2 Cascade 2 Willamette in the keg
13
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: HoosierBrew on June 02, 2013, 02:10:10 PM
Funny but that's what this one will have now.
2 Simcoe FWH
2 Cascade FWH
1 Sim at 60
2 cascade at 10
2 cascade at FO
2 Cascade 2 Willamette in the keg
13
Hey be sure if you do all your dry hopping in keg that you do it @ room temp for say a week.  I do my dry hopping in the fermenter for a week, and then add an ounce to the keg when I put it in the kegerator.  Regardless of which vessel you dry hop in, the temp of 60 - 70 ish is what will extract the really good hop flavor and aroma. I just add the extra oz at kegging for a little extra hop freshness, but it's the room temp hopping that'll give you what you're looking for.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: klickitat jim on June 02, 2013, 02:34:48 PM
Roger that. I'll keep keg in the fermentor freezer controlled at 65 for a week or two before putting it in the kegerator.  Kegendary?
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: HoosierBrew on June 02, 2013, 02:44:31 PM
Exactly  :D.   
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: klickitat jim on June 02, 2013, 02:57:10 PM
Cool. From now on I'm using that term. Kinda has a beer geek ring to it.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: HoosierBrew on June 02, 2013, 03:02:36 PM
Yep.  You can do your kegendary in the "hopinater".
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: klickitat jim on June 02, 2013, 03:03:59 PM
Hopinator, his famous line was "I'll be bock" Lol!
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: HoosierBrew on June 02, 2013, 03:21:36 PM
Yeah, he was a real BA  ;D
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: jeffy on June 02, 2013, 03:44:40 PM
The guy in our club making the best IPA's says he dry hops with four ounces per gallon.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: klickitat jim on June 02, 2013, 03:49:16 PM
Ouch. At some point it seems they would absorb all the beer lol
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: klickitat jim on June 02, 2013, 03:58:23 PM
Why not a bowl of assorted hops, drizzle a little mirror pond on it and chow down
Title: Re: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: erockrph on June 02, 2013, 05:40:25 PM
The guy in our club making the best IPA's says he dry hops with four ounces per gallon.

I dry hopped with 5oz/gallon once and I got so much vegetative matter in my bottles that it took a month of lagering to get them to drop out. By that point the hop oils were already starting to fade. I really think that the point of diminishing returns starts at about half an ounce per gallon and the curve starts to flatten out around 1 or 2 oz per gallon unless you have some sort of advanced rig like a torpedo.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: mabrungard on June 02, 2013, 06:05:04 PM
The guy in our club making the best IPA's says he dry hops with four ounces per gallon.

That seems like a ridiculous amount of dry hopping.  I've been very pleased with around 2 oz in 5 gallons.  I couldn't imagine the mass of hop matter that would suck up much of my beer when 20 oz of dry hops were added to 5 gallons of beer.  My experience says that this is not workable or desirable.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: jeffy on June 02, 2013, 06:27:42 PM
The guy in our club making the best IPA's says he dry hops with four ounces per gallon.
Holy crap !   I'm using 2oz/gallon now for AIPA. You know what though ? I usually think I needed more.  So you've tried the 4oz/gal IPA?  Sounds like it's damn good.  But as previously posted, I also have a hop problem.
He consistently makes the best IPA in our club.  I still have been too "frugal" to put that much in, but 3 ounces per 5 gallons doesn't seem to cut it for me.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: reverseapachemaster on June 03, 2013, 02:12:33 PM
That seems like an enormous amount of dry hops. I wonder if some brewing salt adjustments could make those dry hops more pronounced without using such a massive amount.
Title: Re: Dry hop help
Post by: erockrph on June 03, 2013, 03:25:13 PM
The guy in our club making the best IPA's says he dry hops with four ounces per gallon.
Holy crap !   I'm using 2oz/gallon now for AIPA. You know what though ? I usually think I needed more.  So you've tried the 4oz/gal IPA?  Sounds like it's damn good.  But as previously posted, I also have a hop problem.
He consistently makes the best IPA in our club.  I still have been too "frugal" to put that much in, but 3 ounces per 5 gallons doesn't seem to cut it for me.

I wonder what the rest of his process is? How long, what temp, bagged or loose, etc? I could see if you're dry-hopping cold, or for a short period of time, then there may be added benefit of a larger quantity of hops.

I'm actually testing out a large quantity/short dry-hop duration with an ESB I'm bottling tonight. 3.2 gallons in the fermenter got 5 ounces of dry hops. 2 ounces were leaf hops, so they went in for 2 days to give them extra time to hydrate. The other 3 ounces of pellets will be in for a total of 24 hours. (a half ounce of leaf hops ended up on the floor, but that's because I had to ferment in a carboy instead of a bucket  :-\ ) Normally I'd be using about 2 ounces of dry hops for this brew, so I'm curious how what the end result of this will be.