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General Category => Equipment and Software => Topic started by: goybar on March 10, 2010, 07:22:52 PM

Title: Quick Disconnect
Post by: goybar on March 10, 2010, 07:22:52 PM
Hi All,

I would like to add a weldless ball valve to my kettle.  I always see them with barbed hose adapters. 

Does anyone have or use a quick disconnect?  Does anyone make one?  Similar to what you would use with air compressor tools.

Seems like this would be the way to go.  You don't want the hoses attached while you are boiling your wort. 

Chris
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: tom on March 10, 2010, 07:46:22 PM
You betcha:  http://morebeer.com/search?search=disconnect
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: denny on March 10, 2010, 08:06:49 PM
You betcha:  http://morebeer.com/search?search=disconnect

You tease!  They're all out of stock!
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: riverrat on March 10, 2010, 08:13:41 PM
By far, the best possible solution:
http://www.brew-magic.com/ketl_acc_sanvlv.html

And weld in a set of these:
http://www.brew-magic.com/ketl_acc_hose_connect.html

Then you can use one of these as well:
http://www.brew-magic.com/ketl_acc_siphon_kit.html

This is assuming you have access to or know someone who can weld stainless.

If not, go with something from CPC (colder products if CPC doesn't show up in a search).
Some examples, and a distributor:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconnect-tube-couplings/=65sds3
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: goybar on March 10, 2010, 08:14:25 PM
Thanks, I can't believe I missed those.
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: majorvices on March 10, 2010, 09:46:47 PM
I have the CPC disconnects and I love them, they make life a lot easier. One thing to consider when choosing a disconnect is that the Polysulfone QDC do not conduct heat so you can touch them when hot. I do agree the tri-clamp connections are the best (they are industry standard for brewing), however the CPC Polysulfone are a bit more economical.

Oh, BTW, one down side of the CPC disconnects is you have to drill out the "X" on the inside tokeep them from plugging up if running wort through them. A Dremel makes quick work of them though.
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: timo on March 11, 2010, 03:04:37 AM
All my QD's are SS.......spend more to get the best.  Pricey, yes. Worth it ? Oh baby !!!!
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: denny on March 11, 2010, 05:34:07 PM
Hey, timo, good to see ya!
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: SwashBuckling Drunk on March 11, 2010, 08:32:12 PM
All my QD's are SS.......spend more to get the best.  Pricey, yes. Worth it ? Oh baby !!!!

Please quantify this.  I'm about to get some qd's.


What makes it worth it? better beer? last longer? easier to clean?......

......or just nice to have the bling?
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: tom on March 11, 2010, 10:49:59 PM
D. All of the above

I have 2 female QDs on the ends of the silicone hoses from my pump, and males on every piece of equipment.

http://www.dultmeier.com/catpages.asp?page=E0170
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: yugamrap on March 12, 2010, 04:43:08 AM
I have high-temperature brass QDs http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconnect-hose-couplings/=66hfyx.  Male on the kettles, mash tun and pump, female on the hoses.  They work great - you just need to remember to use a potholder or glove when handling them.
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: dhacker on March 16, 2010, 01:30:25 AM
Oh, BTW, one down side of the CPC disconnects is you have to drill out the "X" on the inside tokeep them from plugging up if running wort through them. A Dremel makes quick work of them though.

YIKES! I'm replying to Keith's 666th post!  :o

I've used the poly CPC quick connects for several years in the "Stock" mode . . that is complete with X bracing intact. I've heard people talk of problems, but I've never experienced any flow plugging issues. I refrained from Dremeling out the Xs because I thought the thing might soften ever so slightly under heat causing a warping distortion in the fitting . . and a resultant leak.
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: majorvices on March 16, 2010, 12:44:49 PM
667!  ;D

Haven't had any issues with mine. I ran them with the "X" in tact but when I took them apart to clean them I always noticed they were partially plugged with hops, even though I'm using pellets. I decided to dremel them out just to be safe. In my experience few things can mirror the frustration as when you are trying to move a finished wort to the fermenter and get a clogged line. Stuck sparge excepting, of course.  ;)

That said, I guess it would be an easy thing to fix on the fly. But (in addition to 12) I am running 42 gallon batches which means a lot more hops so I decided not to take the chance.
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: rep on March 16, 2010, 01:41:34 PM
Poke around this site. 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#

for theball valves
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6739k59/=68qfc5

Straight
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6739k64/=68qe8d

90 degree
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6739k68/=68qflp

I also recently purchased the rubber gaskets for my kegs through this company as well.
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: MrNate on March 16, 2010, 03:13:20 PM
Oh, BTW, one down side of the CPC disconnects is you have to drill out the "X" on the inside tokeep them from plugging up if running wort through them. A Dremel makes quick work of them though.

YIKES! I'm replying to Keith's 666th post!  :o

I've used the poly CPC quick connects for several years in the "Stock" mode . . that is complete with X bracing intact. I've heard people talk of problems, but I've never experienced any flow plugging issues. I refrained from Dremeling out the Xs because I thought the thing might soften ever so slightly under heat causing a warping distortion in the fitting . . and a resultant leak.

I used to use CPC QD's, and the problem I had with them is that the O-rings stretch out very easily. I was replacing them just about every other time, even if I lube them up. I never heard of anyone else having that problem, so YMMV and all that. I switched over to plain old GHT, because honestly... How quick does it need to be?

Also... people talk about the X being needed for bracing, but to me it sure looks a hell of a lot like a molding sprue. I never drilled mine out because it never caused me any problems, but given the material and design I would not hesitate to remove it because of any supposed structural issues.
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: majorvices on March 16, 2010, 04:22:49 PM


I used to use CPC QD's, and the problem I had with them is that the O-rings stretch out very easily.

yeah, that is a problem (though certainly not every batch) anyone have a McMaster Carr part # for those? They charge something like 90 cents a piece for them at NB. Crazy!!
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: MrNate on March 16, 2010, 04:26:37 PM
I measured them, but I can't find my notes now. If I ordered replacements from McMaster, I'd try a different material and see if they had the same issue.
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: bluesman on March 16, 2010, 04:39:51 PM
I like the sanitary SS Tri-Clamps. Pricey but better in the long run. Check out this site.

http://www.stiflow.com/hosefit_sani_intro.htm
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: majorvices on March 19, 2010, 12:41:24 PM
I hate site that make you "request a quote". If you have to request it you can't afford it.  ;)

This site has actual prices on Tri Clover Clamps. http://www.brewershardware.com/Tri-Clover-Fittings/
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: bluesman on March 19, 2010, 12:48:48 PM
I hate site that make you "request a quote". If you have to request it you can't afford it.  ;)

This site has actual prices on Tri Clover Clamps. http://www.brewershardware.com/Tri-Clover-Fittings/

Maybe true...but just remember that you pay for what you get. You'll pay one way or the other in the end.

I'm a believer in keeping it simple....but when it comes to quality products it will cost you.

My method of buying is to get three reputable quotes and go from there.  ;)
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: majorvices on March 19, 2010, 01:45:07 PM
Yeah, but why not just post a price, or at least give an idea? Have you actually ordered from them? I guess when I see links like that I get the feeling they are expecting you to spend a thousand bucks or more.
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: bluesman on March 19, 2010, 03:40:54 PM
Yeah, but why not just post a price, or at least give an idea? Have you actually ordered from them? I guess when I see links like that I get the feeling they are expecting you to spend a thousand bucks or more.

I certainly like instant gratification just as much as the next guy. In fact I would prefer to see the prices published so I don't have to ask for them. I have never ordered from these guys but if you look at their site it is pretty comprehensive as far as fittings and the like. YMMV
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: majorvices on March 19, 2010, 05:10:40 PM
Well, even though I am griping about it I booked marked it for future reference. Thanks for the link.  ;D
Title: Re: Quick Disconnect
Post by: realbeerguy on March 20, 2010, 02:52:45 PM
A few thoughts while reading this thread.

The "Sanitary" ball valve offered by Brew Magic.  No ball valve is truely sanitary.  There is always a void between the seat and the valve body for media to get trapped, even if you use cavity filler seats, which this ball valve probably does.  What that means is that you need to disassemble & clean after every use.  The only true sanitary valves are sanitary butterflys & sanitary diaphragm valves.  Just a note to beware if you think these valves don't need to be cleaned.

For those having problems with the o-rings on the CPC couplers, look into replacing the o-rings with Viton, which Mc Master should have in stock.  I believe the standard ring is Buna-N which has a max temp rating of between 180dF & 220.  Viton has a higher rating, about 285dF I think.