Homebrewers Association | AHA Forum
General Category => Beer Recipes => Topic started by: lupy on March 26, 2010, 12:35:35 am
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This is based on a10t2's recipe:
10.00 lb Pilsner (2 Row) Bel (2.0 SRM) 70.18 %
2.00 lb Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) 14.04 %
0.50 lb Special B Malt (180.0 SRM) 3.51 %
1.00 lb Table Sugar (0.0 SRM) 7.02 % (Cane or Beet - does it matter?)
0.75 lb D2 Belgian Candy Syrup (160.0 SRM) 5.26 % (hopefully enough @ $11.75 per bottle :o)
1 Pkgs Abbey Ale (White Labs #WLP530) [Starter 6 Cup]
Not sure what hops yet.....suggestions?
Seems like a lot of sugar.?
I was gonna mash at 150-
Any suggestions or insights are greatly appreciated. This will be my first Belgian style brew.
Thnaks
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I used about 10% candy syrup. I would replace the table sugar with all candy syrup. It will make a real tasty Dubbel.
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(hopefully enough @ $11.75 per bottle :o)
You're getting hosed, man... that stuff should be more like $5/lb. I would get rid of the table sugar and just go with 1.5 or 2 lb of the D2, assuming you can get it at a reasonable price.
Not sure what hops yet.....suggestions?
Anything noble will work; Saaz is what I usually use. Mt. Hood, Tettnanger, anything like that, you only need enough for a bittering addition of about 25 IBU.
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I wanted to use all syrup but just couldn't pay the price for two bottles. I'll try to track it down for less money, but in the mean time brew a cream ale to please the masses.
Thanks again.
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Just to be clear, we're talking about this stuff (http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/d2-candi-syrup-16-oz.html), right? When you said "bottle" it made me wonder if there's another manufacturer out there.
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Yeah, they switched packaging formats. Used to come in bottles.
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Yeah, they switched packaging formats. Used to come in bottles.
And that's actually a smaller amount than the bottles contained.
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Hadn't realised that - no siree
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So the bottles are older? I thought perhaps they were newer.
The LHBS website (http://brewabeer.com/belgian-candi-syrup-c-322-p-1-pr-20662.html) indicates the bottle to weigh 0.75lbs while the NB pack weighs 1lb. Am I missing something? Is the bottle more concentrated?
If this stuff has a long shelf life I'm sure I could justify placing an ordering with NB.
Would 1lb be enough for 5.5gal? I'd need to bump-up the pils or munich to get my OG near 1.070. With 11lbs of pils malt and 1lb of D2 I'd have ~70% and ~7% of the grain bill. <think that'll be good?
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The bottles I've gotten in the past (and still have) weigh 25 oz. Accounting for the liquid, that's equivalent of 1 lb. of sugar in terms of gravity points. So, if the new packs weigh 1 lb., you're getting fewer gravity points from them.
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I got a bit of conflicting info between the LHBS website and the store. No worries.
I must say that the stuff I bought was not syrup. It looks like tar, is gelatineous and does not level. I am going on the faith that it is like honey and will be fine when heated.
Pron>
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h308/Cropshop/D2cu2.jpg)
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h308/Cropshop/D2weight.jpg)
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That's the right stuff. Don't know why your weight's so high, though.
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I use the same stuff as well but it is not gelatinous. It should be like the cosistency of molasses. I wonder if it was frozen at some point?
The weight seems about right. 16oz=1.5lbs. Right?
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The weight seems about right. 16oz=1.5lbs. Right?
Yep, you're right...I was reading it as 1.9 lb., not 1 lb. 9 oz. Including the bottle weight, that's right on.
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I use the same stuff as well but it is not gelatinous. It should be like the cosistency of molasses. I wonder if it was frozen at some point?
Do you think this stuff will be OK? I intend to soften it in a hot water bath in hopes that it will liquify.
The starter is on the plate now, so it's gonna be a few days before I brew.
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I don't know why it wouldn't be OK.
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I don't know why it wouldn't be OK.
That makes me feel better.
Thanks.
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I just brewed 15 gallons of a rochefort and used 4 packs of the D2. It tasted wonderful
sweet and chocolaty...mmmmm....think I may get some around to like put on french toast
at breakfast or sumthing....D2 syrup/butter/french toast....mmmmmm...
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I'm gonna start the Dubbel and am wondering about recommended mash temps, fermentation temps and when to add the D2 syrup??
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I add the D2 toward the end of the boil...like 20-30 min left...but thats just me. My reason
is that I prefer to laden the water with hop goodness before I saturate it with sugar.
I always try to mash at 154 * F.
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Thanks 1vertical.
I dont' now how beersmith calculates hop utilization so i'm gonna add the D2 at 15-20mins.
I want it to finish fairly dry and it includes 2lbs of munich so I'll mash at ~151*
It looks like I should start ferment around 64* with a significant ramp-up to above 70* over several days.
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I just brewed a quad, basically just a dubbel with a bunch more base malt. I used D2 but no other sugar. OG came in at 1.094. I mashed it at 148F and it's been fermenting like crazy for 10 days, starting around 60F now at 70F.
Recipe for 10 gallons
30 pounds Pilsner malt
3 pounds wheat
1.5 pounds Special B
1.5 pounds CaraVienne
Mash about one hour at 148F, batch sparge(3 batches)
2 bottles D2 syrup
3.5 oz's Hallertau 60 minutes
2 oz Saaz at 20 minutes
White Labs Abbey yeast
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So I'm lagging a bit lately and I realize that my dubbel is still sitting on the cake (as are a cream ale and a stout). For some reason I thought a long coolish LATE fermentation was good for the dubbel, as long as it was after the initial temperature ramp-up suggested for this style, which I tried to do. At the end of two+ weeks it had been in the low seventies for almost a week. Judging it done, I let it settle into the ambiant temp which is about 60-64* where it has sat for the past couple of weeks+/-.
I can't remember if the cooler "secondary" fermentation was a good idea or if I am just confusing it with my cream ale.
I guess my question is: when the temp ramp-up has happened, should the beer stay at that warmer temp.? or is it OK to let it fall back down, or even encourage it to go lower? I thought the higher ferm temps were to produce certain flavor characteristics but extended times at the higher temps would produce off -flavors, however, leaving the beer on the yeast at the later, lower temp., would still allow them to "clean-up".
Is that clear as mud yet? I'm gonna go walk the dog.
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Can you get a taste sample? If so, see where it is at....but IMO, 3 weeks in primary is prolly long enuff.
I let my beers just remain in ambient ....so they get small temp swings... I try to secondary at cooler
stable temps...wether it be 50's or 30's for lager.
There more rambling, I am gonna go walk the cat.... :-\
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Did you make beer?
Was it good for human consumption?
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Well, it's been 8 days in the bottle and I haven't tried it yet.
Bottling sample tasted very sweet to me even though the hydro read 1.014.
I'm trying to be patient and have been savoring the last of my IPAs :o
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How long do you plan to condition the dubbel before crackin'?
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How long do you plan to condition the dubbel before crackin'?
I've had a couple now.
It still tastes pretty sweet initially but it is very easy drinking. I'm hoping that some more ageing will help the "mysterious melding of flavors".