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Messages - Kevin

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It has been over 20 years since I last used a pack of liquid yeast.  For my next beer I plan on using 1450, but I'm slightly concerned because it wasn't delivered in a timely fashion.  I ordered the ice pack, but FedEx took their grand ol time. Not the end of the world (I'll have a pack of US-05 on hand just in case), but is there a way of knowing pre-pitch if the liquid yeast is viable?

The directions say to break the interior nutrient packet, vigorously shake, and (optional) let the yeast sit for 3 hours (give or take) at room temp.  If I do this, the package should expand.

This is probably a ridiculous question but can I assume that if the package blows up, the yeast is happy?  And if it doesn't, go to Plan B?  Or is an expanding package irrelevant to yeast health?

I have a bit of experience with 1450....

lol!  ;D ;D

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Low profile keg
« on: Today at 01:26:55 AM »
Pin lock kegs are shorter than ball lock. Is that what you are looking for?

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Beer Recipes / Re: The recipe wiki lives....kind of
« on: July 14, 2019, 05:52:10 PM »
Hey, cool idea.

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Not able to raise alcohol level
« on: July 14, 2019, 05:51:08 PM »
One more caveat when using Beersmith... if you don't customize your equipment profile (and even you mash profile) you are playing a guessing game every time you brew. You can't just click on one of the profiles that comes with the software... those are just starting points for you to build your own. Once you get all the weights and measures dialed in those estimates will be much closer to actual.

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^^^ iPad

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Ingredients / Re: Developing my own style - New to All Grain Brewing
« on: July 10, 2019, 01:39:13 AM »
Pick up a copy of Randy Mosher's book, Mastering Homebrew. Creating recipes is not as easy as throwing some grains, a few hops and yeast into water. An understanding of malts and how they work with each other is needed and that is a big job. Add to it the need to understand the same relationships of hops which used to be a slightly easier job when I began brewing... C noble hops were all you had to know. Now there are new varieties rolling out yearly. You still aren't finished however. You also need to understand how to select yeast to provide the properties and characteristics you are after.

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@jfclem62: I'm assuming you transferred to the corny keg for fermenting. Did you do that simply because your lid broke? I mean, how broke was it? As long as it covers the bucket mouth and somewhat keeps things from getting into your beer you don't need it to seal tight in order to ferment. You could cover your bucket with tin foil if all else fails and the beer will ferment just fine.

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 1970's Homebrew Shops
« on: June 28, 2019, 06:23:13 PM »
Larry Bell who founded Bell's Brewing in Michigan started with a homebrew store but that was in the early 80's.

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Beer Recipes / Re: Augie's Ale from the walking dead tv show
« on: June 20, 2019, 09:54:14 PM »
I remember writing it down while watching the show and I even think I entered into my Beersmith program but that's as far as it went and I lost interest.

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Beer Recipes / Re: Simple Cream Ale
« on: June 14, 2019, 02:27:40 AM »
Peach? I’ve never experienced that in any of the beers I ferment with US-05. I would like to have that note in my beers.

I was going to say the same thing. Never experienced that even in lighter body styles.

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Beer Recipes / Re: Simple Cream Ale
« on: June 12, 2019, 03:41:10 PM »
My go-to cream ale recipe is based on an interview with a guy named Curt Stock that I heard in a podcast. Off the top of my head he recommended 70 - 80% 2-row or pilsner malt. And the remaining being flaked corn... or a mix of flaked corn and flaked rice with a 2:1 ratio of corn to rice. The OG should end up around 1.050 to 1.055 with the ABV in the neighborhood of 5%

Curt says use a mild, crisp hop like Hallertauer or Saaz. I've used both of those and they work well but my favorite is Lemondrop hops and I've pretty much locked it in as the only variety I use in my cream ales. The IBU should be fairly low in the mid to upper teens but not much higher than 20 - 22 IBU. Your choice of Crystal should work well.

I forget how many batches Curt says he has made with a variety of yeasts but the one he swears by is Wyeast 1056. However the one yeast he says he has used often also is US-05 so you have chosen another winner.

Curt's recipe is 73% pilsner malt, 18% flaked corn and 9% flaked rice with Hallertauer to reach the IBU target. Usually two thirds of the hops for bittering and the remaining toward the end of the boil.

My recipe varies slightly using about 78% 2-row, 15% flaked corn and 7% flaked rice. I like the little extra body the higher percentage of base malt gives. Like you though, I have been kicking around the idea of using a touch of flaked barley for extra body. I use Lemondrop hops and target 20 IBU in each batch and I use the WYeast 1056 every time.

Cream ales are a little too thin in body for me but my wife and friends love it so I probably make more of this than anything else.

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Beer Recipes / Re: The Kernel Imperial Brown Stout
« on: June 08, 2019, 03:33:04 PM »
^^^^
Chocolate seems like an oddity!  I see it was black in the 1848 I found.  But Barclay Perkins always did embrace a wider range of dark malts than most London brewers.  Hopping looks unchanged right to the turn of the 20th century at least.

You are correct. It was black, not chocolate.

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Beer Recipes / Re: The Kernel Imperial Brown Stout
« on: June 07, 2019, 03:33:52 PM »




We need more information.  What is the recipe?

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipe/the-kernel-imperial-brown-stout-london-1856/

I notice another curious thing about this recipe.  It's meant to be an 1856 recipe.  It contains anachronistic malts, Munich and crystal,  which might be chalked up to the brewers' artistic license.   But coming from that slice of history tucked between the Corn Laws and the Free Mash Tun Act, that sugar absolutely does not belong there!  Though perhaps it helps to dry it out and sharpen it up in the absence of vatting?

Definitely brewers artistic license.

I did do some research on Ron's site for Barclay Perkins Russian Imperial Stouts and the grist for the 1850's was only Pale (63.5%), Brown (22.56%), Amber (11.19%),  and Chocolate (2.75%) malt.

The hopping rates were 15.19 pounds per quarter | 9.6 pounds per brl.

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Number one choice is my LHBS. My next go-to is BrewHardware.com

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