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Messages - DW

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General Homebrew Discussion / pH meters
« on: November 08, 2017, 11:23:31 PM »
I predominantly want a pH meter for mead making, but also to check the pH for all grain beer.  I have around $100 to spend. Anyone recommend something that is accurate, reliable, durable, little upkeep? I realize you have to soak the probes frequently in storage solution.  Plus, I noticed the milwaukee meter does not correct for temperature about 140 degrees. is that a problem for all grain? Thanks!

Other Fermentables / mead sanitation
« on: November 07, 2017, 06:06:24 PM »
I'm new to mead. Can I rely on sulfites to prevent contamination of the mead? It seem that there are so many steps where I'm inocullating the must with germs: adding the nutrients/yeast energizer, adding the honey with no heat method, adding other things like fruit/spices,etc.  I have basically just sulfited at 1/4 tsp per 5 gallons and hoped for the best. My one and only mead seemed to turn out alright (cyser). 
--Do you folks sanitize your nutrients?
--Do you use the 1/4tsp campden tablets/5gallons?

Ingredients / Re: water profile for german altbier
« on: August 13, 2016, 02:33:55 PM »
I'm not exactly sure what you guys mean by 'amber' as it regards to the style I'm making.  Are you saying the color of the beer has a certain mash pH? Are there generalizations for what specific chemicals you would put in deionized water to make the proper pH? I'm basically making the recipe from Brewing Classic Styles. 

Ingredients / water profile for german altbier
« on: August 12, 2016, 12:24:08 AM »
I'm brewing a north german altbier this weekend.  My water profile is super soft (like a smidge above deionized).  What would be recommended to get a good mash pH and produce a good altbier? 

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Wheat DME VS Light DME
« on: August 11, 2016, 09:50:10 PM »
Even after you think you've covered all your bases 10 times, it's still possible to screw up >:(  I guess some greatness comes from mistakes, right?  I was supposed to add 6.6lbs Wheat DME, but mixed up bags and used 3.6 wheat and 3lbs Muntons light DME.  Its seems darker then expected and came out a little drier than expected.  Does this make sense? WIll there be much flavor difference? Tastes pretty good. NOt sure what I would expect if it was all wheat as planned

General Homebrew Discussion / Back Hopp"ENING"
« on: January 16, 2016, 04:26:49 PM »
I brewed my first brag got--OG 1.12, FG 1.018.  Used local honey and local hops.  Problem: after setting up and doing my mash I noticed one problem......the local hops were more than 2 YEARS OLD!!!  So I could have been more prepared, I realize that.  The final braggot needs more bitterness to mellow the sweetness. 
1. How can I do that?
2. Will Hop extract post boil give any bitterness, or will it only contribute aroma? 
3. Could I boil water and hops and add that back to the finished braggot?

Y'all are great. Always appreciate the help

Yeast and Fermentation / lalvin D47 for braggot
« on: December 30, 2015, 06:51:06 PM »
I've got a pack of D47 for a brag got.  OG is 1.12 and FG is 1.018.  Could I get by just rehydrating this one packet and pitching, or should I make a starter?  Or should I just pitch 2 packets?

Beer Recipes / Re: recipe formulation with nugget/cascade/
« on: October 27, 2015, 11:48:32 PM »
I appreciate all of the advice.  I guess the only way to figure it out is to do it and see what happens. 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Experimenting with hops
« on: October 27, 2015, 11:42:55 PM »
I prefer to go the extract route for this because it is so much quicker. There's no mash, and a 15-minute boil is all you need. I'm brewing 4 single-hop batches later this week and I will be done in less time than a single all-grain batch.

Do you get adequate hop bitterness with only a 10minute boil?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Experimenting with hops
« on: October 25, 2015, 04:08:19 PM »
Here's and easy way. On the full boil, bitter with Nugget. Late hop with the Cascade. After fermentation is complete, split into two 3 gallon carboys. Dry hop one with Nugget, the other with Cascade. Two ounce minimum for each. A lot of aroma and perceived flavor come from dry hopping. This should give you a good idea of what each hop has to offer. You could blend in the glass to get an idea of what the combination will produce. Not the perfect solution, but easier than splitting the boil.

Sounds like good advice to me!  Could I use just any old IPA recipe and substitute the hops with nugget/cascade (matching the IBUs, of course).  ----

General Homebrew Discussion / Experimenting with hops
« on: October 25, 2015, 02:24:44 PM »
Something I've wanted to do for a long time is to take a batch of wort and break it up into smaller quantities to test individual ingredients without having to make full batches for each ingredient.  I need some help.  I want to split up a batch 3 ways:
1.  Single Hop Nugget
2. Single Hop Cascade
3.  Both Nugget and Cascade

How does one split up a batch based on hops? 
1. Should I make a 6-7 gallon batch of wort then divide it out 3 ways before starting the boil?  I can't boil all three batches at once. 
2. Would it be ok to let some of it sit while I boil one batch at a time? 
3.  If I made 6 gallons and divided it into 2 gallon batches, would I need to still boil the same length of time (60minutes)?
4.  I made another post in the recipe section for a few additional questions....Thanks!!!!

Beer Recipes / recipe formulation with nugget/cascade/
« on: October 25, 2015, 02:15:19 PM »
Someone near me grows Nugget and Cascade hops, and he has offered to give me a good bit.  I would like to showcase these hops in a few IPA's.  I need a little help getting steered toward a recipe.  My ideal situation would be 3 beers, one with only Nugget, one with only cascade, and one with both. 

1. Would these hops make a good single hop IPA?
2. would they work together in a beer? 
3. For the cascade IPA, would I need to use a higher IBU hop for bittering (like the nugget), as I'm assuming I'd need to use a lot of hops since cascade is not generally really high IBU.  And the bittering hops don't contribute to flavor, right?
4.  These will be whole leaf hops, so will I need to use extra volume since whole leaf hops absorb more water, and if so how do I upsize the grain bill?

I want all three IPA's to be about equal bitterness, but to showcase the individual flavors (I'm assuming through flavor and aroma additions). 

All Grain Brewing / lower finishing gravity?
« on: May 09, 2015, 12:49:20 AM »
Why did my all grain belgian pale ale recipe ferment out to 1.00, when it was supposed to only go to 1.012?  Too much Oxygenation (I use pure O2--not easy to tell how much you're putting in)?---too much yeast (built a starter using 1400 mL starter)?.  ?????  I fermented at 152 degrees. 

Ingredients / Re: Using your back yard creek
« on: April 20, 2015, 11:56:46 PM »
For now I think I'll just say screw it.  I guess I could walk up the creek as far as I could to see if anything looks suspicous.  Would Ward labs be able to tell me if there were pollutants?  From a practicality standpoint, taking water from my creek makes no sense.  From a novelty standpoint, it seems worthwhile. Kinda like how breweries/distilleries bragg about their own water source.  I could, in essence, makes a faulty boast that my beer was sourced from the crystal NC mountain streams, therefore it must taste delicous, etc. 

Ingredients / Re: Using your back yard creek
« on: April 18, 2015, 03:59:05 PM »
+1.  I'd be concerned about pollutant runoff, too.

Would pollutants be analyzed by Ward Labs?

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