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Messages - kramerog

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1
All Grain Brewing / Re: Spring Water Question/Help
« on: February 22, 2017, 09:12:13 PM »
I estimated the bicarbonate value at 15 ppm and the residual alkalinity as 0 using Bru'n Water.  The calcium level is very low so you'll want to add calcium salts to get the calcium between 50-100 ppm for ales generally.

2
All Grain Brewing / Re: Spring Water Question/Help
« on: February 22, 2017, 11:46:53 AM »
the spring water report is what water I am going to use.  I do not have other options. This is by far the most convenient and cheapest option for me.  any suggestions for additives would be appreciate it

The water looks pretty darn good from my (novice) perspective.  To me, it appears you can brew nearly any style of beer and may only need some minor additions to tailor it specific ways:

Epsom Salt
Gypsum
Calcium Chloride
Acid (malt, lactic, phosphoric, sauergut, etc)


And on occasion some alkaline buffering may be needed (stouts, etc):
Baking soda or Pickling Lime

As for how much of each to use, it completely depends on the beer you'll be brewing.  Using Bru'N Water Spreadsheet is an ideal place to begin.  Plug in your water profile values, and move through the tabs with grist/volumes/water profiles, and it will give you values of each addition that best estimates the final beer water profile.  Some key pointers are: you should never be using an alkaline agent AND acid at the same time; using Bru'Ns "color-fullness" water profiles are safe choices almost every time; less is more (this translates well to life in general).

Generally agree with the above, but I don't see much need for acid given what appears to be a low alkalinity, although alkalinity was not tested. There is probably enough information in your water report to estimate the alkalinity based on an ion balance.  Alkalinity is one of the most important inputs into Bru'n Water and mash chemistry generally.


3
All Grain Brewing / Re: Adjust pH only with acid vs other methos
« on: February 22, 2017, 08:34:58 AM »
Adding phosphoric is an appropriate approach and perhaps the easiest and cheapest.  I prefer lactic acid as it is more concentrated, but your RA is higher than mine so that might not be appropriate for you.

4
Homebrewdad, could you change your link to http: from https:?  Using https: makes my browser think you are a scammer.

5
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Need some help with water
« on: February 19, 2017, 04:32:12 PM »
Without an alkalinity test, it is hard to know how to adjust your water. 

6
I'm with Chris.  Why are you wanting to warm the beer up and then cold crashing?  Sounds like unnecessary work.

7
All Grain Brewing / Re: How long does it take you to brew a beer?
« on: February 10, 2017, 02:32:56 PM »
6-8 hrs for 10-gal batches although it is overall trending downwards as I eliminate or reduce the bottlenecks.  Parti-gyling can be significantly longer especially if I'm making 3 or 4 distinct beers in the summer.

8
This is a fascinating thread, which coincidentally I found only after I posted this (provacatively titled) blog entry last night ("Are Homebrew Experiments Scientific?"): https://andybrews.com/2017/02/07/are-homebrew-experiments-scientific/

I completely agree with you Andy. I have worked in science for 25 years, lab setting for 7, and clinical research for the last 18, and know that "labs" are not much different from a homebrew setting.

The humble advice to Denny and the IGORs (sounds like Benny and the Jets  :) )
- Researchers must do a literature review to the extent that is possible, so it is clear in your mind how your experiment will add to the knowledge in the area (it is not that it was never done, but that it must be done for every experiment)
- Researchers must provide an objective evaluation of the quality of the beer whenever possible. Less flaws mean less statistical noise. Flaws in the beer may explain why a difference could not be detected.
- Researchers must maximize the odds of finding a difference should there be one (meaning, pick the best style). The argument that a more flavorful beer is more "real world"is not invalid, but research-wise, one does the experiment with the best chance first, and then does the extrapolation experiment.

Welcome to the forum, Andy !!

Nice to be more active on the forum, and to have some good discussion!

It is worth noting that my "lab" equipment includes everything from helicopters to jackhammers to binocular microscopes to CT scanners. Science is awesome. The only place I use an Erlenmeyer flask (that old science stereotype) is in brewing!

The issue of delving into the brewing literature is one I talk about in a bit more depth for my post, and have been thinking a lot on lately...a real challenge is that much/most of the brewing literature is paywalled (and thus not terribly accessible in any easy fashion for most users), much of it is highly technical (I certainly am not always in a good position to evaluate its quality, and I have a Ph.D. in science!), and a lot of the brewing literature centers on brewing at commercial scales. Of course, the latter point has me thinking--has anyone done a good review article on differences and similarities between commercial and homebrewing setups, in terms of chemistry, physics, biology, etc.? There are lots of scattered references, of course (e.g., pressure differences between a 5 gallon carboy and a 500 gallon conical), but if anyone knows of a single piece that ties this all together I'd love to see it!

And hey...is it time to start a peer reviewed, open access journal of homebrew science? (I'd love to help out!)
When literature review is not practical, couldn't peer review of the knowledge base be done?

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


9
Time to pitch some Nottingham.

10
Ingredients / Re: Brewer's Invert Sugar Syrup
« on: February 08, 2017, 07:56:43 AM »
Look forward to hear how it turned out.  A few improvements to the method: 1)Corn sugar is unnecessary.  We're  making invert syrup, not caramel.  2) You can cut the water in half; boiling off the excess water wastes a lot of time.  3) You can add 1/2 the sugar and all the acid to the water while initially heating the water and add the rest of the sugar after boiling; no need to wait until boiling to start inverting the syrup.


11
Ingredients / Re: Galaxy Pale Ale Water
« on: February 05, 2017, 09:14:12 PM »
Over 100 ppm sulfate and chloride doesn't seem to be an issue in New England IPAs.  Check Scott Janish's blog for more info.


Maybe so. Those are more chloride heavy. I can't speak as a NEIPA expert by any means, but I do trust Martin's advice and have seen the results in sulfate heavy beers  with too much chloride. All in all, I'd rather give water advice to someone on the conservative end and let them run with it.
Perhaps our difference viewpoints might be explained by the starting water.  Specifically, a low mineral water - moderate alkalinity is OK - doesn't produce a beer that has unpleasant mineralogy with high sulfate and chloride but a high mineral one does?

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk


12
Ingredients / Re: Galaxy Pale Ale Water
« on: February 05, 2017, 05:17:54 PM »
Over 100 ppm sulfate and chloride doesn't seem to be an issue in New England IPAs.  Check Scott Janish's blog for more info.

13
The issue you may be dealing with is that high pressure has different meanings in different contexts.  5 psi, the pressure of regulator for many high pressure propane regulators, is not considered high pressure generally. 

14
That recipe won't give you a beer with much hop aroma no matter how good of a brewer you are.  The hop additions are too early in the process for hop aroma to come through.  The hop additions should begin at the very end of the boil to get flavor and a modicum of aroma.  If you want a lot of aroma, you need to dry hop during fermentation.  Also I'm guessing you added about 2 oz of hops total, which is not much particulalry when 1 oz is Cascade.

15
Kegging and Bottling / Re: How expensive is kegging?
« on: February 01, 2017, 06:25:11 PM »
I live in a Northern State and intentionally started kegging in the winter so I could store my keg in my garage (never freezes) without refrigerators/kegerators etc. I bought a used keg ($30?) a regulator ($40?) a used steel Co2 tank and a new picnic faucet. Of course this was close to 30-years ago (I still use that keg and regulator). Like everyone else in this post, I added kegs, keezers, regs. etc. Obviously everything is more expensive now...but the point is you can start kegging relatively inexpensive if you are creative and are a "toe dipper" (cheap) like me.

That's pretty much how I started.  I got a deal on some used kegs.  I then started kegging dark beers and keeping the keg in a cold part of the basement in the winter.  My neighbor got rid of his fridge; I fixed it..... I still do keep dark beer outside the fridge.  I have never used faucets because I like the simplicity and ease of cleaning with picnic taps. 

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