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Messages - edward

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Equipment and Software / Re: Cheapo pH Meter Experience
« on: January 09, 2017, 06:21:55 AM »
I got a very similar one a few months back.  Worked really well until I submerged it about 2/3 deep in Starsan and some got inside.  That was it.

We've been running this competition for years but this is the first time announcing it on the AHA Forum.

The competition is scheduled for April 8th in Charleston, SC and is open to everyone and all categories from the 2015 guidelines.

As with all homebrew competitions we're always looking for additional volunteers and Charleston is a fantastic city to visit for a vacation or beercation (~15 breweries and counting).  Consistently ranked as one of the best cities in the USA (and World) to visit.

We pride ourselves with spoiling our judges with fantastic food and THE BEST end of competition raffle in the Southeast (all proceeds to charity).  We can even help find you a place to stay if you're coming far afield.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Nitro Corn kegs
« on: December 29, 2016, 02:09:43 PM »
My brewing buddy and I went Nitro at the same time.  He did as Int3lig3ntdzign did and the beer served out okay but doesnt have that classic 'Guiness' Nitro cascade of fine bubbles.  Its a light cascade at best.

My procedure:  I kegged the beer and hit it with 40 psi of the Nitro gas mix (25% CO2).  No straight CO2 at all.  I shaked the hell out of it and hit it with 40 psi again.  I repeat that for a few days until no more pressure will go in.  Bascially the CO2 gets saturated (equivalent of 10 psi CO2) and the Nitrogen gets absorbed a little...but not much.

Chilled it down and hooked it up to my line with a Nitro faucet and it pours beautifully!  Looks just like a Guiness pour - although it only takes about eight seconds to fill a glass.  The cascade of bubbles is something to behold!  SO SO CREAMY!  Its like drinking light, frothy, chocolate milk.  I serve at 35 to 40 psi on the Nitro gas mix - perfect pour every time.

I found this on a Probrewer discussion site:

To hopefully add to the discussion, John Mallet in his New Brewer article from Nov/Dec 1997 article points out that ranges for commercial beers are from 10-35ppm with 20-25ppm being typical nitrogenated stout levels. He also points out that the equilibrium for beer at 5C(41F) and 15psig is 2.7vol for CO2 and just .004vols N2 (15psig is a lot less than 35psig and yes it is adsorbed). Hey I didn’t say it was a lot in solution but it is in solution!

It is important to remember that a nitrogenated beer is not just nitrogen but also CO2. Nitrogen solubility is so poor that it almost completely goes to gas phase in a near instantaneous manner when the equilibrium pressure is removed. For nitrogenated beer the trick is to get the CO2 out of solution at the same time. The problem is that the CO2 has little drive to leave solution due to its high solubility and typically moderate levels from 1.6-2.0vols in nitrogenated beer. So the solution is to push the beer through a plate that has pinholes that will create massive turbulence thus knocking the CO2 out even though it didn’t want to. The higher ~31psig delivery pressures are necessary to not only keep the small amount of nitrogen in solution (with “beer gas”) but also overcome the high restriction of the pin holes. So with both the nitrogen and CO2 coming out of solution you have nitrogen seeding CO2 bubbles. Since nucleation size is the most important factor in initial bubble size you start with tiny bubbles. And since nitrogen has a very small gas diffusion coefficient (especially compared to CO2) it maintains small bubbles (even with CO2 mixed in).

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Beer Gun for High CO2 beers
« on: December 29, 2016, 01:54:16 PM »
Is there foam in the line as you are filling the bottles or is it just foaming once it hits the bottles?  If there is foam in the line as you are filling then you are going to have a ton of foam in the bottles too.

For me the first few bottles are always a little more foamy until the beer line and the gun get cold too.  I usually just set the cap loosely on those bottles and then come back and top them off.

When I'm desperate to fill bottles with high carb I just keep pulling the trigger, foam flowing out of the top of the bottle, until the beer runs clear and then slam the cap on it.  A lot of beer gets wasted that way though.

Equipment and Software / Re: 10 Gal Propane Burners
« on: December 22, 2016, 08:12:42 AM »
Technically almost any burner will will just take longer.

I use the original cast iron burner I got with a turkey fryer.  The regulator is the limiting factor on those burners - which is why you never seem them rated to a certain BTU, because its all about the regulator.  A 5 psi regulator will work to bring 10 gallons to a boil but a 10 psi will get you there a lot faster.  There are adjustable ones up to 30 psi.

I use a 10 psi regulator for a 25 gallon pot - commonly boiling 20 gallons in it. 

Equipment and Software / Re: Choosing The Right Brewpot
« on: October 15, 2013, 07:38:40 PM »
This is similar to what I used to use.  Worked fantastic.

I stopped using it because I went bigger.  Bought a 102 qt SS Bayou Classic off craiglist for $80.

There is no reason to not buy Aluminum.  Cheap (compared to SS), light, and easy to work with.  For cleaning you just need soapy water.  I would recommend buying the thick walled pots -- 4mm or 6mm I believe.  There is the potential for melting if the heat is absurdly high....but I never ran into this in 50+ batches.

As Martin said dont use abrasive cleaners....and why would you sanitize anything before the boil?

Equipment and Software / Re: Calling All Metallurgists!
« on: October 15, 2013, 07:24:20 PM »
52100 typically has a Cr content of ~1.5% - good for heat treating but doesn't do a lot for corrosion resistance.  Use a 304 or 316 stainless or a marbles (any glass or ceramic will work too!).

I use marbles, a chunk of 304 stainless, or an old keg post that I snapped the pins off while trying to remove it.

BTW your beer turned black because the pH is low enough to etch the steel.  When steel is etched it

When my company isn't paying me to answer emails and go to meetings I spend time being a metallurgist.   :D

All Grain Brewing / Re: 10-gal Batch with 2 different OG's
« on: February 18, 2013, 06:12:54 AM »
Did one of you have a large starter and the other not?

The most obvious solution is that someone diluted theirs with some water.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belgian dark strong, low FG
« on: October 06, 2012, 08:33:19 PM »
I had a BDS that got 90% attentuation.  From 1.100 to 1.010.  For the first six months it was pretty hot but still very good.  After that the hotness faded and it became truly outstanding.

BDS is a style that ages well.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Best size boil kettle for 10 gallon batches
« on: October 02, 2012, 02:52:40 PM »

I have had success with boiling 18+ gallons in a 20 gallon boilermaker using Fermcap-S.

Fermcap rocks!  In the boil and the fermenter!  No boil overs or blowouts.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Problem with keg hopping
« on: September 18, 2012, 03:40:45 PM »
I cleaned out the post and the dip tube really good and then let the keg settle for a few days.  The flow out of the tap isn't what it should be, but its pretty good.

I will definitely look into the sure screen.

All Grain Brewing / Re: your experiences in moving to 10g?
« on: September 18, 2012, 03:27:45 AM »
I mainly do 5 gallons but the last two batches I have done were 10 gallons.  I dont have a stand and I can confirm that it is heavy.  My back was sore after the last one.

For cooling I lift the entire pot and set it in a big tub of water.  With using an immersion chiller this reduces my cooling time by about half.

Keep in mind mash tun capacity.  I use a 10 gallon round cooler and doing any beer over 1.060 gets to be pretty tight. 

Beer Recipes / Re: Weizen/Dunkel Weizen idea
« on: September 17, 2012, 08:48:26 AM »
Thanks for the ideas!

I have some caramunich 3 laying around that I used in a dubbel that I need to use up.  I might have some munich laying around as well.  Dont know why I didnt think of that.

...the trick will be to prevent the OG from getting too high.

Beer Recipes / Weizen/Dunkel Weizen idea
« on: September 16, 2012, 10:14:44 AM »
I'm trying to figure out if this idea will work.

I've been doing a lot of 10g batches lately and splitting the batches using different yeasts and dry hopping.

What I'd like to do is make 10g of hefeweizen and split it.  Then add 1lb of munich extract plus some carafa 2 for color in 1/2 gallon of water to one of the fermenters.

I'm wondering if the extract will give enough caramel/munich flavor that is needed for a dunkelweizen.

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