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Messages - ynotbrusum

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1
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Acidifying water for yeast
« on: April 20, 2017, 10:11:04 AM »
Sounds like a plan.  I would think that pH 4.0 is a reasonable target for the water then, with the understanding that the yeast should be going dormant fairly quickly in the water and won't be adjusting the pH/attempting to adjust the pH in the container (especially if cold crashed).

Best of luck - I am sure it will work out for you.

2
I would consider pitching a neutral saccharomyces strain (US-05 or similar).  I would not rack it over.

But, if you are willing to try the wait and see approach - do nothing - it might give you something that you really like.  It's hard to say, but some folks have re-pitched the Roeselare with success.

I have a 5 year Solera project going and I pitch new Roeselare each time on the "new, green" beer for blending with two other laid up batches (one older blended batch is in a 5 gallon bourbon barrel and the other is in glass).  I blend among all three and load up the barrel with the unused part of the new batch that I have left after I have racked out for the blending.  The largest proportion in the blend is the new Flanders.

3
All Grain Brewing / Re: Light Struck
« on: April 20, 2017, 09:36:12 AM »
Much like sulfur, I find minor skunking can dissipate.  I've made a farty beer before (many years ago) where I recall telling my friends "pour it into your glass, then walk away for 5 minutes, then come back and enjoy".  Mercaptan compounds are of course volatile so it makes sense to me that in some cases you could do the same thing to a slightly skunked beer -- pour, walk away, come back and enjoy.  Or, just embrace the skunk.

I'm with Dave.  I've also had many cases where some very light skunkiness up front would dissipate, but it was always faint to begin with.  I find sulphury notes to dissipate quite often, while esters, oxidation, and phenolics tend to intensify over time. 

I always make it a point to revisit aroma after evaluating flavor and before recording overall impression to check out whether the aromas lingered, dissipated, or intensified.  I'll often add a note on what changed (or didn't).

<Hint to prospective BJCP examinees -  GRADERS LOVE TO SEE THIS ON AN EXAM (and on competition score sheets)>

I always revisit during the course of evaluating a beer in judging.  If nothing else, temperature alone can change things (or allow things to be perceived more readily).  My comments typically include "initial notes perceived", "later hints picked up as the sample warms", "final aromas presenting themselves late", etc...to me this is as important as low, medium and high perceptions.  it also tells the brewer that I wasn't giving it a mere "drive by" or "quicky" analysis.  A good judge told me once that competitions won't survive unless you give the brewers something for their money, even if they don't place an entry.  I still write explanatory comments on the NHC "check the box" form, also, for this reason.

4
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast and Hops not in fridge
« on: April 19, 2017, 06:02:35 PM »
Since it is Wyeast, why not try smacking the pack?  You can still make a starter that way...

5
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Acidifying water for yeast
« on: April 19, 2017, 06:00:35 PM »
Store it under beer and you will have the best results, I think.  So steal some wort with the top cropping process and don seal the vessel you put it in.  That is probably the best approach.  I store yeast with beer by just leaving some finished beer after fermentation, so grabbing some Krausen and fermenting wort should be good to go as a process.

6
I just checked out the Wyeast site:

https://www.wyeastlab.com/yeast-strain/roeselare-ale-blend

It says propagation does cause a change in proportions among the critters.  They suggest not propagating it. 

7
It's a good question and I don't have an answer, but I have a wild guess.  If no activity is outwardly visible and you have ruled out things like a leaky seal or other typical issue, it could be that the slurry was so old that the Saccaromyces is just not going to make it.  The Brett and Pedro part of the lure will eventually get going, I am sure.  You could add some new yeast to see if that is the issue.  I also have concerns about the balance of the percentages on a re-pitch - I think it is possible that the saccaromyces that are alive may be woefully outnumbered and having trouble getting going.  That is my WAG of the day...

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2017 NHC Competition Chat
« on: April 19, 2017, 03:00:26 PM »
Typically, you only find out how you did in the mini bos by being one of the top three entries of the category.  But making it to mini bos put you in the top few!  (Depending on the size of the category entries, it could be as few as 4 to 6 or as many as 8 to 9 - I have rarely seen it greater than that, but I suppose it could happen.)  I wouldn't worry about the numbers - focus on the things mentioned and hope that the judges who scored your entry did a thorough job of evaluation.  If they did, you should be able to pick out the things that were well received and what might be the shortcomings in your beer. 

As an IPA, I imagine that it was up against some pretty steep competition, so your beer must have been pretty solid to advance to mini bos.  Congrats on that for a first-time entry!

9
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewtan Experiment Writeup
« on: April 19, 2017, 02:53:50 PM »
I can't say that I know anything about the reactions that are occurring, but I definitely get a pinkish hue in the spent mash and in the foam in the break as it approaches a boil.  Some have said that it is BTB reacting to metals (iron is the suspect) in the wort (I use RO water that comes from a well at my house).  I may have to try some distilled water to see if it is just my water system.  I can say that I see a difference in clarity with BTB and I use it in the strike water and late boil, prior to and with Whirlfloc in close succession, hydrating it each time.

I can attest to Joe's beers.  I had a recent taste of a RIS of his that took Best in Show at this year's Drunk Monk Challenge last month (out of about 700 entries, IIRC). 

10
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Acidifying water for yeast
« on: April 18, 2017, 04:47:19 AM »
It really depends on your intended use of the water.  I don't see the need to modify pH if the water will be used to make a starter, because the yeast will alter/optimize the pH on their own during the starter phase.  They are very good at it.  If you start too low, you might actually harm the growth of the yeast.

11
For 5 gallon batches, that's fine, but weighing it out is better for me on my 10-12 gallon batches (nearly half a hectliter for rounding).  It is fairly forgiving as an ingredient, though so slightly heavy handed doses are still ok.

12
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: A Sunday with Monks
« on: April 17, 2017, 07:51:17 PM »
Yes, you are correct.  The candle holder with scissors to trim the wicks.  Good eyes.

13
I am on my second sachet of two ordered last year from Aussie land.  I hope it will last me until it is available here in the States for homebrewers.  Otherwise, I will have to go down under again (unless I can talk a pro brewer friend to part with an ounce....)  Thankfully, you don't need very much for a batch. (2-5 grams per hectoliter per the packaging).

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: A Sunday with Monks
« on: April 17, 2017, 12:27:13 PM »
I think it was used to slice the radishes (the white Bier Radishes in a few of the depictions).

Agreed that it is a nice collection. 

15
Good point, Denny.  I haven't tried the "Trifecta" blend of AA, NaMeta and Brewtan B, so I can't say otherwise on AA.  I agree with your general approach that if there isn't a problem perceived, then a solution should not be sought. 

Having said that, I am one of the low-ox brewers for my lagers.  They seem to have been well-received by my crew, so I will keep going with that process for now.  I use preboiling, less than 25 ppm NaMeta and Brew Tan B, gentle dough-in with mashcap, modest stirring, subsurface RIMS return (Locline), lower boil rate (finishing with a 10 minute more intensive boil at the end to drive off DMS), lower fermentation temp, purged racking and storage at cold temps.  The beers don't last six weeks, but that is because they have succumbed to glasses of my friends in that time.  At some point, I may spund and even later on, use Sauergut, but I am happy with my results so far and they seem to be worth the small additional time invested.

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