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Messages - melferburque

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Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: malt rye & extract
« on: February 20, 2017, 07:55:09 PM »
lesson learned. this was my first go with DME, I'd always mashed full grain before with no difficulty.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: malt rye & extract
« on: February 20, 2017, 05:41:59 PM »

It's likely there's nothing left to ferment.

hooray for overly sweet near-beer, I guess. does seem a little odd given the four pounds of DME tho.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: malt rye & extract
« on: February 19, 2017, 06:50:51 PM »
sooo.. I transferred to secondary, took a gravity reading, and I'm at 1.019. I thought the yeast was awfully quiet. should I repitch? I used US-05. it was fermenting around 64 degrees, I couldn't get it much higher.

OG was 1.049, so I was right on to start with.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: malt rye & extract
« on: February 10, 2017, 05:57:56 PM »
good to know the malt rye will convert on its own. I am concerned that the target FG according to my software is low. mashing at a higher temp should make for less fermentable sugars to compensate for that, correct?

I did see rye LME but it was really expensive. seems easier to just partial mash.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / malt rye & extract
« on: February 09, 2017, 10:48:50 PM »
I've been out of brewing for several years and no longer have the means of all-grain options like I used to. I'm working to recreate a recipe I had used previously but with DME (couldn't find LME locally within my budget). my concern is steeping only rye (1#) and crystal 40 (1/2#) won't be as effective without the base malt of a mash. should I be concerned?

I had already planned to steep a few degrees higher than normal (156 F) to bring the FG up, which is currently calculating at 1.009 on my software, with a 1.064 OG for 7% ABV.

the recipe I'm looking at is for a 3 gallon batch:

3# light DME
1# dark DME
1# malted rye
1/2# crystal 40

am I going to regret this?

All Grain Brewing / melanoidin in an amber?
« on: June 26, 2012, 01:40:20 AM »
first off, it was awesome to meet so many of you throughout the conference. it was my first, and I was blown away. I definitely plan to attend more, but I doubt I can afford every year.

I wanted to make an amber beer, and I'm typically not big on ambers. I was thinking about changing it up a bit and going with a melanoidin malt, which I've never used. one of my clubmates said this was a bad idea and inappropriate for an amber, but I think they were worried more about style guidelines. I just want to try it out, but I also don't want to waste a batch of beer.

is there any reason why this absolutely would not work? if it comes out funky I'd be okay with that, as I said I don't really like ambers. if it comes out awful, that's another matter. thoughts?

5 gallons

7# maris otter
1.5# munich 10
1.5# melanoidin
1# crystal 80

1 oz centennial FWH
1 oz cascade flameout

US-05 yeast

All Grain Brewing / Re: FG is way too high
« on: June 13, 2012, 10:52:55 PM »
Yeah, exactly what wonderbread said.  You can use Sean's calculator to estimate the actual final gravity.

But a hydrometer is more accurate post-fermentation.

I did not know that! huzzah! I'm not making oddly refreshing beer with undiscernable massive amounts of non-fermentables. that's guys!

All Grain Brewing / Re: FG is way too high
« on: June 13, 2012, 10:44:25 PM »
Are you sure the thermometer you're measuring your mash temp with is accurate?

within a degree or so, yes. I have calibrated it and checked against my kettle thermometer. if it's off, it's not enough to cause that massive a swing.

All Grain Brewing / FG is way too high
« on: June 13, 2012, 10:06:17 PM »
I've been having some issues with the last few batches I've brewed. I've been getting pretty consistent OG yields (70% or so) mashing for an hour with a ten gallon igloo cooler at 152-154 degrees. I bought a refractometer and have had OGs of 1.061, 1.066 and 1.071. using fresh dry yeast, I've pitched two packets of US-05 for each of these (sierra pale clone and two IPAs), let ferment in a 60-65 degree room for 2-3 weeks in primary, and the yeast has pooped out around 1.030 for all three.

I've been using beersmith, and I know I'm mashing a bit on the high side (I like some extra body) but I should still end up with FG in the 1.0teens. I'm missing my final mark by a full twenty points, which makes for some weak (though not unenjoyable) beer. I just can't figure out why. the yeast is fresh, only a couple months old and kept in the fridge, warmed to room temperature prior to hydrating. 350+ billion cells should be more than adequate for those OGs. I've left them primary a full week or two after airlock activity has ceased, and I've done plenty of aeration of the wort prior to pitching. I don't have much control over the fermenting room temp, but so far this year it hasn't gone over 70 degrees in there.

any ideas what I might be doing wrong?

I'm taking a couple of these to my club meeting tonight (north seattle homebrewers), and plan to bring them to NHC assuming they pass muster with my club.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: slow starter
« on: March 18, 2012, 03:24:11 PM »
shooting for 1.065 on a chocolate stout.

Yeast and Fermentation / slow starter
« on: March 18, 2012, 03:11:15 PM »
I'm working on a starter for wyeast 1338, and I knew it was a slow yeast going in.  I popped it about 2pm friday, and it had swelled to maximum by the time I got my starter going at 7pm.  I'm doing a 1L starter, and it's currently at 1.022 (5.5 brix) after 36 hours.  I don't have time to wait any longer.  is there any harm with cold crashing this as is, decanting and tossing in what I have?  or should I use a dry yeast backup and let this go and use for next time?

All Grain Brewing / Re: repeated stuck mashes
« on: March 14, 2012, 11:32:27 PM »
All great ideas. But is it possible that it is as simple as losing prime? With the hose maybe it is just softening to the point that it draws air somewhere. I had a cooler tun that loss prime all the time before I just took it all apart and rebuilt it. Maybe a small addition of rice hulls might help?

I've also given serious thought to adding rice hulls, especially when using rye.  what's the normal usage for them?  10% of total grist?

All Grain Brewing / Re: repeated stuck mashes
« on: March 14, 2012, 09:43:55 PM »
OK.  Just be aware that the round 10-gallon Igloo is only 12 inches wide and 24 inches high. 
It'll still help you make beer--it will just take longer to do it.
I just think the rectangular ones are better suited for the homebrewer who wants flexibility with batch sizes (much easier to stir high-gravity mashes) and who doesn't have the time and patience to wait around with slow/stuck lauters/sparges.

A good rule of thumb for mash tuns and boil kettles is to have it be twice the size of your batch size--i.e., a 10 gallon batch size means using a 20-gallon Cooler (MLT) and a 20-gallon Boil Kettle (OK if they are a little bigger).  Practically speaking, it means less mess (stirring and boilovers) and more options (step infusions, thinner mashes,  transfering the vessel safely, etc.).  It is worth the slightly extra up-front expense compared to the smaller vessels.  You'll be wishing you had if you skimp.

I've never attempted anything larger than a five gallon batch, and don't have any intention to at this point.  if I ever needed to do a large grain bill type beer (more than 18#) I would simply borrow my buddy's identical kit and split the mash in two.  I rarely go over 15# on my grain bill, hasn't been an issue yet.

All Grain Brewing / Re: repeated stuck mashes
« on: March 14, 2012, 09:38:25 PM »
I may be over simplifying but can you fit a piece of 1/2" copper pipe in there? If you have some laying around I mean.  You won't compress that.


that's what I ended up doing, I ran some stainless tubing inside the silicone.

All Grain Brewing / Re: repeated stuck mashes
« on: March 14, 2012, 07:03:08 PM »

It is also quite possible that, since you're using a round 10-gallon Igloo cooler, you are also seeing the effects of grain bed compaction (which you wouldn't see in a rectangular cooler).  Anytime the grain bed height approaches and exceeds its width, you're very likely going to see grain bed compaction which will significantly slow the lautering/sparging rate regardless of the false bottom used.

the last batch I did was only 8.5# of grain, so it wasn't compaction on that stuck sparge.  definitely could be something from the larger batches I'd done previously tho.

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