Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - hophead73

Pages: [1]
Equipment and Software / Wheels for new brewstand?!
« on: September 06, 2013, 02:10:13 PM »
So I had some construction done on the house and they needed to build a temporary wall. I paid for all the lumber so when they tore it down I thought, why not? Lets build a brewstand!

Anyone have any suggestions for wheels for this thing? The legs are 2x4s and the caster wheels I see on Home Depot have a plate no smaller than 2" which probably won't secure well.
Any other ideas? Wheels with locks would be ideal.

Worked out perfectly!
I went through the drain hole in the bottom.
I cut out two pieces of thick insulation foam and used a dremel to carve them so they would fit snug into the drain hole in the interior and on the outside. Drilled a small hole down the middle of each, detached the probe lead from the controller so I could snake it through the hole since the probe end won't fit through the 90degree turn the drain takes.
Pulled the wire through and the plugs are snug and air tight in the holes and now the lead has a nice tight seal.

I'm not saying the air leak isn't contributing. Mold needs moisture as well. Your leak dedinitely needs addressed.  Mold can be minimized by keeping spills and drips cleaned up. Thats all I was saying.

Oh I definitely agree. Mold was only where the picnic taps dripped onto the kegs. Have to be more careful after pouring to make sure the tap head doesn't drip.

I definitely think going through the drain will be very easy and less invasive

You can feel air coming out where the wire is going under the lid seal. And since the condensation is only on the top of the freezer where the leak is, it definitely seems as if this is the cause.
Someone else gave me a good idea I'm going to try tonight. I can detach the probe lead from the Digital Controller and feed the wire through the drain in the bottom. I plan on taking some thick insulation foam and forming it to the shape of the drain holes and drilling a hole in the center of it to feed the wire through, that should keep a nice tight seal and prevent air from coming through the drain.
My Eva-Dry 500 dehumidifer is definitely picking up moisture. It works great and is rechargeable.
Luckily it seems to only be a problem in the hot summer days cause there was no problems during the fall, winter and beginning of spring.

Equipment and Software / Air leak causing mold in chest freezer
« on: July 29, 2013, 09:18:37 PM »
I have a 5cu ft Holiday Chest Freezer for my corny kegs.
Use a Johnson Digital Temp Controller set to 38 degrees with the probe in a thermowell in a Gatorade bottle of water.
I have a Eva-Dry 500 to control moisture, but I'm still having problems with moisture and now a small bit of mold was spotted and cleaned thoroughly.
You can see in the pic how the temp probe is being fed into the freezer.
There is a small gap in the seal allowing air to enter and causing the moisture which is all on the top of the freezer only on the tops of the kegs and regulator.
Any advice on how to feed it in without a leak?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Palmer's Spreadsheet - Kettle addition
« on: August 17, 2012, 09:31:54 PM »

Gypsum: 5g
Epsom: 3g
Baking Soda: 1g
Chalk: 4g

While I find that a little alkalinity can be needed in a big beer with a nice dose of crystal malts, that 130 ppm alkalinity may be excessive in my experience. 

Another consideration is the use of chalk.  I'm getting plenty of data from Bru'n Water users that says: Chalk doesn't work AT ALL within the time frame its needed during the mash.  Chalk takes a while to dissolve and then it takes more time to react.  So unless a user is creating a predissolved and CO2-reacted chalk solution, don't even think about using chalk in brewing. 

Another thing is that alkalinity is never added to sparging water.  So the issue of adding either baking soda or chalk should not come up for sparging water.  Unfortunately, there are too many water resources on the web that don't know or relate this information.

I'm sorry to hear the hophead73 is having difficulty in getting Bru'n Water to run on his machine.  That seems to be more of a possibility on machines the run non-standard operating systems or software.  So it appears that you won't have the opportunity to use Bru'n Water, but you can still get a better understanding of brewing water chemistry from the Bru'n Water site.

Any suggestions to get Bru'n Water to work on a Mac with OpenOffice? I have macros enabled and it still gives me error messages.
I was able to try it on my work PC and I see what you are saying with the sparge water additions.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but you don't want to adjust the alkalinity of the sparge water with chalk or baking soda, only add them to the mash to adjust the Ph of the mash.
So if I were to use say Palmer's or Kaiser's spreadsheet for the initial mash additions and then went to calculate my sparge water additions, I would only want to adjust the sulfate to chloride ratio for bitterness and increase my calcium levels for a healthy yeast environment?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Palmer's Spreadsheet - Kettle addition
« on: August 17, 2012, 02:50:20 AM »
Adding Ca or Mg salts to the main mash will affect the pH, though slightly. Chalk has to be added to an acidic environment (like the mash) to dissolve, but chalk is a poor choice for raising alkalinity if you have access to pickling lime. So if you don't want to alter the mash pH, you can add Ca/Mg salts to the sparge or the boil. If you add chalk to the kettle I'd worry about driving your kettle pH too high.

Which salts are you adding, how much are you adding, and why are you adding them?

Here is my water report:
Calcium: 13.0
Magnesium: 3.0
Sodium: 23.0
Sulfate: 9.0
Chloride: 25.0
CaCO3:   45.0

Going off of research I would like to reach a water profile for my IPA of about:
Target SRM: 13
Calcium: 90
Magnesium: 12
Sodium: 35
Sulfate: 160
Chloride: 25
CaCO3: 130

I have 9lbs of grain with mash thickness 1.3qt/lb
7.42gallons total = 2.88gallons for mash / 4.54 gallons for batch sparge

Gypsum: 5g
Epsom: 3g
Baking Soda: 1g
Chalk: 4g

All Grain Brewing / Re: Palmer's Spreadsheet - Kettle addition
« on: August 17, 2012, 02:34:15 AM »
Mashing is mashing, sparging is rinsing. Wrap your head around that.

Yeah I know that. But Palmer says there is no need to add the salts to your sparge water since they don't have time to dissolve into the sparge water. So wouldn't it make more sense to add this addition the kettle instead?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Palmer's Spreadsheet - Kettle addition
« on: August 17, 2012, 02:17:27 AM »
So using Kaiser's spreadsheet (Bru'N spreadsheet doesn't seem to be working) I get close to the same amount of salts as if I were to use Palmer's and do a 3 gallon mash and then do another calculation for 4.5 gallons of sparge water.

So it seems like they are both right in the salt additions.
My question then is when to add the 2nd addition. Kaiser says to add it to the sparge, but won't some of the salts not dissolve without the mash or boil? So couldn't you just add the 2nd addition to the boil kettle instead?

All Grain Brewing / Palmer's Spreadsheet - Kettle addition
« on: August 17, 2012, 01:07:32 AM »
I was just listening to Brew Strong and have been trying to work out the correct water profile for my Sierra Celebration Ale Clone.

I get that for the initial mash you only put the mash water volume into the spreadsheet (for me 3gallons) and then calculate the appropriate salt additions to reach my desired water profile.

Palmer states on Brew Strong that you have to then do a separate addition that will be added to the kettle for the sparge water that will top off your kettle to your pre-boil volume. But he never goes into detail about this addition.

So say I get 2 gallons of wort from my sparge. I would then need 4.25 gallons to reach my pre-boil volume from sparging. Would you then just take the spreadsheet and put 4.25 gallons and adjust the salts to reach the same water profile that I calculated for the mash?

So I have a 6" boil screen in my kettle attached to my ball valve.

Now this doesn't strain that much hops out because of the larger holes in the screen so when I transfer it to my carboy I run it through a big funnel that has a screen in it to help filter. That screen constantly gets clogged and I have to sit there with a sanitized spoon and keep the screen clear.

So I was thinking to help strain more hops out of the kettle that I would put a stainless steel scrubber inside of the boil screen.

The good stainless steel ones say they won't rust, so would there be any other issue to using this?

These are the type of scrub pads I was looking at and here is the boil screen I have. I would put one inside of the screen and run the wort out of the kettle through it.

Beer Recipes / Re: Community IPA Recipe Project
« on: May 12, 2012, 07:21:44 AM »
So this is the malt profile I think I'm going to work with. (It's a partial mash recipe)

4lbs 2 Row Pale Malt
1lb Caramel 60L
.5lb Biscuit Malt
.5lb Carapils
6lbs of Golden Light LME

For the hops I'm thinking for the 60min:
.5oz Simcoe
.25oz Chinook
.25oz Magnum

From 30mins until flameout divide up the Willamette, Hallertauer, Citra, Centennial, Amarillo and Simcoe and add at 30, 15, 10mins

Steep after flameout with 1oz of Amarillo and Simcoe
And dry hop with 1oz of Amarillo and Simcoe

Beer Recipes / Community IPA Recipe Project
« on: May 11, 2012, 09:28:43 PM »
So basically I'm going to be moving soon and want to do one last batch here.
I have a freezer full of delicious hops and not exactly sure what to do with them, so I have this idea.
Everyone put in your ideas on what kind of malts to use, hop schedule, dry hopping, etc... for a nice hoppy IPA recipe.
Let's hear everyone's ideas!

Here are the hops I have:

Simcoe 3.25oz
Amarillo 2.25oz
Hallertauer .5oz
Willamette .75oz
Magnum .25oz
Citra .25oz
Centennial .25oz
Chinook .25oz

Pages: [1]