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Messages - nofunsally

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1
Thanks for the info.  I wasn't sure if it was possible to prevent a beer geyser.

Cheers,
Mike

2
Thanks. That was my plan.  Can I do the switch-a-roo with the beer already carbed? Or do I need to something about the carbonation first?

Cheers,
Mike

3
Hello,
I made sure to the correct gas in fitting on the keg by making sure it had notches.  However, I didn't pay attention when screwing on the "out" -- They both are notched (I was cleaning the four kegs I bought at once). I carbed the brew.  I tried to attached my quick disconnect for my beer line and it wouldn't go on.  This is when I noticed the double use of the notched fittings. 

Any one have suggestions on what to do next?

Thanks,

4
Equipment and Software / Re: 70 quart cooler to big for 5 gallon batches?
« on: November 07, 2011, 01:47:27 PM »
Thanks for the comments. I bought the 70 qt coleman.

Cheers,
Mike

5
Equipment and Software / 70 quart cooler to big for 5 gallon batches?
« on: November 07, 2011, 09:46:29 AM »
Hello,
I need a new cooler for my mash tun (I moved, it didn't).  I was previously using the 48 qt Igloo cube it worked well as far as I was concerned.  I mostly brew 5 gallon batches (boiling up to 8) and I batch sparge.  I am now looking at coolers and was wondering if others use a 70 qt cooler for 5 gallon batches.  Is it too big? Will the 5 gallon batch in a 70 qt mash tun have less than desirable temperature holding, etc?

Cheers,
Mike

6
Equipment and Software / Re: Propane burners and soot
« on: September 20, 2011, 11:15:11 AM »
Thanks again for the information. I guess I need to, again, scour message boards and find the burner. 

Cheers,
Mike

7
Equipment and Software / Re: Propane burners and soot
« on: September 20, 2011, 08:52:42 AM »
I was prepared for the paint burning, but I don't what the differences of the regulators means for my brewday.  What is the practical difference between 10 and 20 psi?

Cheers,
Mike

8
Equipment and Software / Re: Propane burners and soot
« on: September 20, 2011, 06:55:31 AM »
So, does anyone hate the SP10? I think I am just going to get it since it seems to be generally well received.

Cheers,
Mike

9
Equipment and Software / Re: Propane burners and soot
« on: September 17, 2011, 10:47:23 AM »
Thanks for the tips.  I already parted ways with the previous burner. So I guess I'll just get the SP10 for my new one. I feel comfortable assuming the soot was a bad product or blockage.

Cheers,
Mike

10
Equipment and Software / Propane burners and soot
« on: September 16, 2011, 11:47:14 AM »
Hello,
I had been using a non-name propane burner I purchased at the hardware store Menards for $30.  It worked, I use a ten gallon kettle and usually boil about 8 gallons of wort. However, it was always burning rich and left an incredible amount of soot on the pot.  I tried adjusting the air input to no avail.  I recently moved and left the burner out for the scrap metal collectors.

It had a base like the Bayou SQ14 but the burner looked like the one in the SP10.

So .. Does anyone else have problems with incomplete combustion? Is the because of the burner type? Or, did I just get what I paid for? 

I'd like to buy a new propane burner very soon, but want to make sure to avoid the soot problem.

Cheers,
Mike

11
I brewed this:

Code: [Select]
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 6.0 gal     
Boil Size: 8.00 gal
Estimated OG: 1.092 SG
Estimated Color: 17.6 SRM
Estimated IBU: 46.7 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 78.00 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount        Item                                      Type         % or IBU     
9.25 lb       White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM)                Grain        46.37 %       
6.50 lb       Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)            Grain        32.58 %       
3.00 lb       Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM)              Grain        15.04 %       
0.88 lb       Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM)     Grain        4.41 %       
0.19 lb       Acid Malt (3.0 SRM)                       Grain        0.95 %       
0.13 lb       Black (Patent) Malt (500.0 SRM)           Grain        0.65 %       
1.00 oz       Sterling [7.50 %]  (60 min)               Hops         19.2 IBU     
1.00 oz       Northern Brewer [9.00 %]  (60 min)        Hops         20.7 IBU     
1.00 oz       Herbsucker [3.50 %]  (30 min)             Hops         6.9 IBU       


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 19.95 lb
----------------------------
Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge
Step Time     Name               Description                         Step Temp     
75 min        Mash In            Add 29.93 qt of water at 158.5 F    150.0 F   

Just thought I'd share.

Cheers,
Mike

12
Hello,
I am moving soon and I am looking to use most of the ingredients below in a ~5 gallon batch.  I'll need to get yeast and possibly some hops.  Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Mike

Code: [Select]
9.25# White Wheat
6.5# Pale
3# Munich 10L
14 oz C90
11 oz Acid Malt
10 oz Debittered Black Patent

1 oz Hersbrucker 3.5%
1 oz Sterling 6.5%

13
Hello All,
Thanks for the information and thoughts.

- The picture above with the bubbles is out of the kettle, so I don't think this is CO2.  I used an auto-siphon in the past and then I broke 2, and I switched to stainless. I think I am going to go back.  I still don't know why this cavitation has only become a issue recently.  I might try the pinch method too.

- I usually only wait about 30 seconds for the refractometer, I will wait longer before taking a reading now.

- Kegging, I mean to get start that sometime. I am moving across the country soon and didn't want to gear up before the move. I did buy four used corny kegs about six months ago though.

- I probably leave about a half gallon in the kettle. I have never used a hop bag. Should I?

Thanks,
Mike

14
I’ve got about a 30 brews under my belt.  Recently I have some new problems along with the persistent ones.

Persistent Problems:
I bottle my beer.  My last two beer were most likely infected (bottle geysers, one was more sour than the other though).  Out of the 30, I have had about a third of the beers suffer from some degree of geyserness.  It wasn’t always every bottle in batch so I thought it could be improperly mixed priming solution.  However, these last two definitely appeared to be infected.  

To stomp out the infection issue I’ve since purchased a bottle tree, vinator and new fermenting buckets.  Unfortunately, I haven’t kept notes on whether I’ve fermented in glass or plastic to see if that was the issue.  I also bought a stainless steel racking cane thinking this could be kept clean better.  I rinse it after every brew with fairly high pressure water and usually run some starsan through it and rinse again.  However, the other day I found it was really gross just out of the normal sight line (i.e. about an inch in with tan, stubborn sludge).  I have since cleaned out the gunk.  I think the cane may have been the problem.

Recent problems:
When I was looking for the infection source, I bought new tubing too.  Nevertheless, I am getting extreme cavitation and am having a really hard time getting the siphon to start.  Not only is it hard to start, but also over time the wort is mixed with more and more air, until it eventually stops.  I never had this siphoning problem before the last few beers when I switched the tubing.  I am using a metal hose clamp and two zip ties to reduce the cavitation but it’s not enough.  It is incredibly frustrating especially towards the end of the brew day.  How do you all siphon?  Has anyone else combated this issue?


I recently purchased a refractometer (with automatic temperature control) and have been checking my pre- and post- boil gravity (via brix).  When calculating my efficiencies my pre is always better than post.  I am talking like ~20% difference.  My volumes are not precise, (definitely within a quart).  Any ideas on what might be causing this discrepancy.  I check the refractometer with distilled water frequently, I believe its measurements are correct.  I am shooting for 65 – 75% efficiency.

Finally, how much wort is usually left in the brew pot after transferring to the fermenter?  I haven't really got that down when planning recipes (I am using BeerSmith).

I’d appreciate assistance on any of these issues.

Thanks,
Mike

15
I want to "lager" the lager after primary.  I usually bottle, wait for carbonation and the lager in the bottle. I want to try "bulk" lagering to see if that makes the lager more lager-y.

Thanks,
Mike

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