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Messages - kuphish

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Equipment and Software / Re: Stained Plastic Fermenters
« on: October 06, 2012, 10:34:50 PM »
If it's just discoloration it shouldn't be a problem. All of my buckets have a brownish hue to them. Just make sure they are clean and sanitized.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2


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Zymurgy / Re: 2010 M/A Geeks column - Malt Conditioning
« on: April 15, 2010, 06:51:18 AM »
I use a corona mill and have found malt conditioning to be very beneficial because it largely eliminates the shredded husks that such mills are often criticized for producing.  Instead, the husks are fluffy and intact while the grain is crushed nice and fine.

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sun Oxygen Cleaner/Oxyclean.. .film
« on: March 30, 2010, 06:33:51 AM »
You just need a light acid to neutralize the oxiclean and take off the film.  A spray bottle of water filled with StarSan will work.  I have also used a few teaspoons of distilled white vinegar in a water bath (or spray bottle) to get rid of the film.

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All Grain Brewing / Re: For those that measure mash gravity
« on: March 02, 2010, 10:21:40 AM »
For a long time now my standard mash incorporates a long (30-45 min) rest at 160 F which usually gives me full conversion after it is done. I have yet to take the time to plot the mash gravity over time.
Could you elaborate on your standard mash procedure, please?  I'm trying to maximize my conversion efficiency and right now I am stuck at around 92-93%.

My standard mash, which I use for most of my German beers goes like this:

- 63 C (145-146 F) held for 30 – 45 min. This is the maltose rest and its length controls attenuation
- Then heating while stirring
- 70-72 C (158-162 F) held for 30-45 min (sometimes even 60 min). This is the dextrinization rest and it needs to be held until the mash is iodine negative. That may happen after as little as 15-20 min but I’m holding it longer since some literature sources mention head retention and mouthfeel improvements for an extended rest at this temp. The few explanations that I found involve glycoprotedies which are releases into the wort but the enzymes that would be able to degrade them have already been denatured. I haven’t done any experiments regarding this effect yet.
- Then heating and stirring to mash-out at 75-76 C (167 – 169 F)

My malt is milled at about 0.7-0.8 mm (28 – 31 mil). I think my good conversion is helped by the fact that I do stir the mash, mash thin and hold that long rest at 160 F. But mashing with direct heat may not be a viable option for everybody since it does take a little more effort.

Kai


Interesting, I think I'll give that a try on my next batch.  I know the problem isn't my crush, so it's probably the lack of agitation during the (single infusion) mash and having a second rest at 160F.  Two questions: (1) What is your conversion efficiency with this procedure?  (2) Do you use a different mash schedule for non-German beer styles?

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All Grain Brewing / Re: For those that measure mash gravity
« on: March 02, 2010, 09:37:20 AM »
For a long time now my standard mash incorporates a long (30-45 min) rest at 160 F which usually gives me full conversion after it is done. I have yet to take the time to plot the mash gravity over time.
Could you elaborate on your standard mash procedure, please?  I'm trying to maximize my conversion efficiency and right now I am stuck at around 92-93%.

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I rinse them off and toss them in the laundry. 

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Small batches in Primary Fermenter...
« on: February 06, 2010, 10:08:24 PM »
You'll have no problems with the extra head space
Agreed.  I've brewed half batches in my 6.5 gallon fermenters with no ill effects.

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation Temp Control
« on: February 06, 2010, 10:06:30 PM »
Fermentation temperature and pitching the proper amount of yeast are the two things that I focus on the most.  Unfortunately, I only have a swamp cooler, but it works well for my needs at the moment.

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