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Messages - arustyt

Pages: [1] 2
1
Equipment and Software / Re: Looking for electronics help
« on: April 15, 2014, 01:51:53 PM »
It looks like Radio Shack has 120V mini-neon lamps - that might be your easiest fix.  I can't tell for sure, but it looks like the assembly may include the resistor internally.

Rusty

I originally looked at Radio shack and didnt see anything that i thought would work, do you have a part number? Ill grab one and try it out.

Cheers,
Jeff

This is what I found on the RadioShack website: 110VAC Snap-In Red Neon Indicator Lamp

It is not exactly what you currently have but it should work.  This unit is rated at 110VAC so I think it should replace the existing bulb and resistor.  There are other mini-neon lamps in different colors.

Rusty

2
Equipment and Software / Re: Looking for electronics help
« on: April 14, 2014, 01:56:34 PM »
Here are the simplest 120V LED circuits I know of:



Make sure the capacitor is rated at 200V or more and I think a 1/2 watt resistor should do the trick in this setup.

If you decide to try to get the neon bulb working, here are some thoughts on that:

Measure the voltage between the 2 big wires (around the resister and the bulb) and you should see the total volts in the circuit (assuming the bulb is blown).  With the power off you can check if the resister is good and then if the bulb is blown.

First of all, make sure the multi-meter is set to an AC voltage range of at least 120V, not DC.  When measuring the voltage between the 2 big wires as suggested by Slowbrew, if you get 120VAC then power is getting to the bulb/resistor combo, otherwise power is not getting that far (i.e. the problem lies somewhere else).  If the power is getting to the bulb/resistor combo, carefully measure the voltage across the two leads of the neon bulb.  If it reads 120 VAC then the bulb is dead, otherwise I would suspect the resistor (or both).

It looks like Radio Shack has 120V mini-neon lamps - that might be your easiest fix.  I can't tell for sure, but it looks like the assembly may include the resistor internally.

Rusty

3
Equipment and Software / Re: Looking for electronics help
« on: April 13, 2014, 05:19:42 PM »
I don't think that is an LED. It looks like a neon bulb.

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4
Equipment and Software / Re: brew nanny
« on: April 03, 2014, 12:56:13 PM »
$250
Holy sh!te! Yeah, not cool at that price. Unless you're money bags.

And that is with a 50% discount.

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5
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrew Wedding
« on: March 27, 2014, 07:16:39 PM »
I brewed 30 gallons of Irish Red ale (3 batches) for my daughter's wedding. The place we had the reception would not serve it so I bottled bombers and gave them out as favors. I don't know if it was strictly legal or not.  My daughter's friend is a graphic designer and designed the label for the bottles. 

6
Ingredients / Hop Aging
« on: March 25, 2014, 03:55:28 PM »
Last December I picked up some hops from the AB-Inbev (St. Louis) "Free Hops for the Holidays" giveaway. They are Hallertau hops from Idaho, 2011 crop, 8% alpha (original).  When I got them home I packaged them them in FoodSaver bags and have been storing them in the freezer.

I plan to use them as for bittering and flavor additions this weekend. Any suggestions on the alpha acid adjustment I should make to account for their age?  One hop aging calculator that I tried gave 5%.

7
Equipment and Software / Re: very frustrated with my Barley Crusher
« on: March 17, 2014, 02:01:03 PM »
Does the free roller turn easily? I would guess lubrication is part of the maintenance.  I don't know about the barley crusher but i know it is for my monster mill.

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8
Equipment and Software / Re: CO2 To Go
« on: March 14, 2014, 12:49:37 PM »
My wife gave me a TapIt Cap (http://tapitcap.com/) last Christmas:


It's basically a heavy duty growler cap with a cobra tap and CO2 cartridge which is attached with a standard flare fitting.  Cost is $45.  So for a bit more than the OP's keg charger you can get the keg charger plus a cap to allow serving from and maintaining pressure/carbonation in a growler.

9
The Pub / Re: Happy pi day every one!
« on: March 14, 2014, 11:14:10 AM »
Mmmmmm.... pi

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10
But if you're gonna glance at the thermometer, why not just glance at the kettle to see how it's doing?  The lack of a thermometer on my kettle has never interfered with my ability to judge when it's gonna boil.
I can, and frequently do look inside the BK. But it's nice to be able to keep an eye on it from across the garage. It's not like I added a thermometer just so I can watch the temperature. My BK is a Blichmann so I'm just using what's there.

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11
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Can wort heat past 212 when boiling?
« on: March 13, 2014, 10:49:13 AM »
I agree with denny that the the boiling temp for wort is above 212. But that doesn't really matter. The wort is going to boil at a certain temperature and you can't exceed it. (Although it will rise if you boil off enough water. )

The reason I like having a thermometer in my BK is so that I know when it's getting close to a boil. When I am waiting for the wort to boil I am usually doing other things like cleaning the mash tun. The thermometer let's me know at a glance when it's near boiling so I can keep an eye on it.

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12
Ingredients / Re: Another Cacoa nibs post
« on: February 27, 2014, 05:18:39 AM »
I used cacao nibs in an experimental Chocolate Porter last year.  I split the batch into 4 one gallon jugs for secondary and pitched a different level of nibs in each.

To start with I bought raw nibs before I learned that they should be roasted to bring out the flavor.  So my first task was an experiment in roasting cacao nibs.  After trying three different temp/time combinations this is where I landed. One roasting method suggested roasting at 150 F for 10 minutes then 120 F for 10 minutes. I may be wrong but that does not sound much like "roasting" for me, so I assumed that the temps were really in C instead of F. This translated into the following:
  • 300F for 10 min.
  • 250F for 10 min.
After roasting I weighed out the nibs for the following pitching rates:
  • 1 oz./5 gal. = 0.15 oz.
  • 2 oz./5 gal. = 0.30 oz.
  • 3 oz./5 gal. = 0.45 oz.
  • 5 oz./5 gal. = 0.75 oz.
I added just enough vodka to cover the nibs and let it soak for about 10 days.  After soaking the vodka/nib mixture was dark brown and smelled awesome, like chocolate cake. I pitched the vodka and nibs into each secondary jug.

Initially after carbonation the 3 oz./5 gal. was the best in terms of chocolate aroma and flavor without bitterness; 5 oz./5gal. was a little bitter.  However, after a month or so the bitterness in the 5 oz. sub-batch subsided and it became the favorite.


13
Equipment and Software / Re: Chugger Pump and Counterflow wort chiller
« on: February 15, 2014, 06:05:47 AM »
The maximum pressure the chugger pump you described can produce is about 8 psi. As I said above I think you should put a valve on the pump output so you can reduce the flow rate and hence the pressure. If you run the pump full flow the wort will not cool down in the chiller as much as you want. I have a thermometer at the output of my chiller and adjust the flow to get the final wort temp I am looking for.

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14
Equipment and Software / Re: Chugger Pump and Counterflow wort chiller
« on: February 14, 2014, 03:19:37 PM »
I doubt that the pump will generate enough pressure to be a problem. However, I would recommend putting a valve on the output side of the pump. That will allow you to control the temperature of the wort coming out of the CFC.

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15
Equipment and Software / Re: Blichmann Boilermaker pots
« on: November 20, 2013, 06:18:22 AM »
I've used the HopBlocker in my Boilermaker with whole hops and haven't had an issue at all.  The runoff may slow down a little but it never stopped.
+1

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