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Messages - troybinso

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1
Beer Recipes / Re: session IPA
« on: Today at 09:54:41 AM »
See if you can get an 8oz package of Mosaic. It works well as a single hop and then just split the bag between whirlpool and dry hop

2
Beer Recipes / Re: session IPA
« on: Today at 09:52:10 AM »
I'm a big fan of this type of beer. Too bad you can only use wheat and barley. I put a pretty big dose of oats or rye in mine to get more mouthfeel. Also, on really low gravity beers I will add quite a bit of crystal malt - up to 10% of Caramel Pilsen from MFB. If you are going to give it a lot of hops I think it needs to have some body to back it up, otherwise it tasted like hoppy soda water.

I'd agree about using some of those intensely aromatic NZ/AU hops, but I'll disagree with the bitterness level. I just put a enough in at 60 minutes to get about 10 IBU, then I'll put about 4oz in at flame out (for 5 gallon batch). Hard to measure the IBU, but for a 1.038 beer I would guess it is around 25 IBU. Don't forget to dryhop with at least as much as whirlpool addition.

Edit: diagreeing about bitterness with erockrph. pete b snuck in a response at about the same time I did.

3
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lactobacillus starter
« on: Today at 09:38:44 AM »
OP here.

I already have the Omega Lactobacillus pack that I plan to use for a Berliner weisse type beer. My plan is to grow up a starter so that I can save some of it and be able to reuse it in the future for more of the same type of beer. It sounds like I am safe with just the low pH.

Since I am kettle souring then boiling, I won't really be able to harvest the lacto from the kettle - they will have sacrificed themselves for the good of the beer, and the cleanliness of the equipment.

I have heard that the handful of grain can work for this type of beer, but I would rather have a little more control over the process at this point. I know the pure strain works well, and is less likely to have a beer taste like poop or vomit.

The sauergut explanation on the Low oxygen website is pretty interesting. Hard to believe it is capable of so many different things throughout the brewing process. I might give a couple of those steps a try, although I rarely make lagers.

4
General Homebrew Discussion / Lactobacillus starter
« on: December 01, 2016, 01:02:19 PM »
I want to make a starter for a kettle soured beer with a pure culture of Lactobacillus, but I want to able to keep some of the starter aside so that I can use it in future batches. If I were to use most of the starter and pitch it in the kettle soured beer, can I expect the stuff that is left behind to be safe to use in a month? What if I feed it some starter wort occasionally? There shouldn't really be any alcohol in there to protect the wort from unwanted contaminants/pathogens, only a low pH.

5
Equipment and Software / Re: Innovative brewing equipment website
« on: November 06, 2016, 09:46:35 AM »
Agreed. Great service. And quick shipping - even across the country.

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6
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Did NB sell out?
« on: October 19, 2016, 08:23:06 PM »
Do those that are anti AB also avoid Walmart, Target, Amazon, Home Depot, Lowes, Best Buy, Total Wine, Specs, BevMo? All of those can be considered anti competition.

I do my best to avoid those stores, but sometimes there aren't very many choices. If you live in a smaller town it can hard to shop local for things like clothes or hardware. Hardware stores and department stores have just closed in the past decade or so. I also avoid AB-inbev products, although it can be hard to keep up with which breweries have been bought out.

On the other hand, Northern Brewer is an online store - not unlike Amazon. There are a bunch of online homebrew stores that are comparable to NB in selection and price that are independently owned. I'd prefer to use them.

Finally I'll say that I'm not an absolutist. Sometimes I will use a big box store or an online store even though a local store might carry a similar product at a similar price. My plan is just to try to do a little bit better about helping out the people who have an interest in keeping the money that I spend within community that I live.

7
Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: October 13, 2016, 08:51:32 AM »
How are you keeping the water from reabsorbing oxygen as it cools to mash temp? Also how are you keeping oxygen out of the mash tun?

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8
Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: October 13, 2016, 07:40:55 AM »
I'll be curious to see where this discussion goes after people listen to what Joe has to say on today's podcast.

I gave it a listen. It's interesting to get his take on Brewtan B, and while most of what he said is technically correct, it's incorrect to conclude that Brewtan B prevents oxygen from reacting in the mash/boil altogether. I actually noticed that Joe hedged a bit on this - he said oxygen wouldn't react in the same way it normally would. He didn't say it wouldn't react at all.

Oxygen has more than one pathway to react with stuff in the mash. The Fenton reaction is only one of these pathways. Another set of major oxidative pathways are through naturally occurring enzymes found in the malt, such as lipoxygenase and polyphenol oxidase. I think polyphenol oxidase is the real bogeyman here, because we hypothesize that the simple, low molecular weight malt phenols are the main source of the fresh malt "it" flavor, and polyphenol oxidase is specifically made for catalyzing the oxidation of those phenols.

To use an analogy:

Using Brewtan B in oxygen-saturated water and expecting zero oxidation to take place is like mashing at 160 F and expecting no starch conversion to take place because you've denatured beta amylase at that temperature. It doesn't work, because you've overlooked the fact that alpha amylase is still active at 160 F and provides another pathway for the starch to convert.



This is a side-by-side picture of wort produced with a normal process (on the left) and wort made with the low-oxygen process (on the right). The color difference is indicative of the fact that the polyphenol oxidase enzyme has been inhibited. When polyphenol oxidase (which is the same type of enzyme that turns sliced apples or avocados brown when exposed to air) oxidizes the malt phenols into quinones, they polymerize to form reddish-brown polyphenols. The fresh malt flavors of the phenols disappear, and are replaced by a bitter malt flavor (George Fix called this "herbstoffe").

If Brewtan B doesn't make the wort several shades lighter (like the picture above), then it's not blocking all oxidative reactions in the mash.

I think that Brewtan B could absolutely be a useful tool, and i see it helping more post-fermentation because the Fenton reaction is also a big oxidative pathway in finished beer. So it could definitely help with shelf stability there - but I don't see how it can possibly be a magic bullet all by itself. Note that other commonly used additives like gelatin and Irish moss can also have metal chelating properties.
The image of those two glasses of wort clearly shows a difference in color. Can you elaborate on the specific differences between the process of producing each batch of wort?

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One wort was made with low o2 mashing procedures (light), the other was standard homebrewing procedures(dark).
The differences at that stage would be preboiled water and smb.

Wow. That is a pretty significant difference. Did you purge the mash tun of oxygen? If the only difference is SMB and preboiled water then that seems like a worthwhile couple of extra steps with hardly any effort.

9
Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: October 12, 2016, 09:40:14 PM »
I'll be curious to see where this discussion goes after people listen to what Joe has to say on today's podcast.

I gave it a listen. It's interesting to get his take on Brewtan B, and while most of what he said is technically correct, it's incorrect to conclude that Brewtan B prevents oxygen from reacting in the mash/boil altogether. I actually noticed that Joe hedged a bit on this - he said oxygen wouldn't react in the same way it normally would. He didn't say it wouldn't react at all.

Oxygen has more than one pathway to react with stuff in the mash. The Fenton reaction is only one of these pathways. Another set of major oxidative pathways are through naturally occurring enzymes found in the malt, such as lipoxygenase and polyphenol oxidase. I think polyphenol oxidase is the real bogeyman here, because we hypothesize that the simple, low molecular weight malt phenols are the main source of the fresh malt "it" flavor, and polyphenol oxidase is specifically made for catalyzing the oxidation of those phenols.

To use an analogy:

Using Brewtan B in oxygen-saturated water and expecting zero oxidation to take place is like mashing at 160 F and expecting no starch conversion to take place because you've denatured beta amylase at that temperature. It doesn't work, because you've overlooked the fact that alpha amylase is still active at 160 F and provides another pathway for the starch to convert.



This is a side-by-side picture of wort produced with a normal process (on the left) and wort made with the low-oxygen process (on the right). The color difference is indicative of the fact that the polyphenol oxidase enzyme has been inhibited. When polyphenol oxidase (which is the same type of enzyme that turns sliced apples or avocados brown when exposed to air) oxidizes the malt phenols into quinones, they polymerize to form reddish-brown polyphenols. The fresh malt flavors of the phenols disappear, and are replaced by a bitter malt flavor (George Fix called this "herbstoffe").

If Brewtan B doesn't make the wort several shades lighter (like the picture above), then it's not blocking all oxidative reactions in the mash.

I think that Brewtan B could absolutely be a useful tool, and i see it helping more post-fermentation because the Fenton reaction is also a big oxidative pathway in finished beer. So it could definitely help with shelf stability there - but I don't see how it can possibly be a magic bullet all by itself. Note that other commonly used additives like gelatin and Irish moss can also have metal chelating properties.
The image of those two glasses of wort clearly shows a difference in color. Can you elaborate on the specific differences between the process of producing each batch of wort?

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk


10
General Homebrew Discussion / flaked grains and cloudiness
« on: October 01, 2016, 09:11:33 AM »
Do flaked grains (rye, oats, wheat, etc.) at 15% cause a beer to be cloudy?

11
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Headspace and flavor/aroma stability?
« on: September 22, 2016, 05:16:31 PM »
Could there have been some oxygen in the keg? If there was and it sloshed around a lot it could have sped up the oxidation process.

12
Kegging and Bottling / Re: growler
« on: August 14, 2016, 02:06:40 PM »
Any screw top glass jug will work, but I really love the insulated stainless steel growlers. They keep the beer cold, you don't have to find a cap, and they don't break.

this looks like the one I have. It is easier to fill the ones with shoulders - they don't foam up as much.

https://www.amazon.com/Growler-Stainless-Insulated-64-Ounce-Beverages/dp/B00ZCM7V8K/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1471208744&sr=8-6&keywords=stainless+growler

13
The pump will cause the wort to get colder. When it runs through the hoses it is losing heat. I think you should go with a better wind shield and grind the grains the night before.

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrewer to Pro, Licensing
« on: July 15, 2016, 09:41:24 PM »
In my neck of the woods you can have a brewery in an outbuilding in the county, but not in city limits. There are dozens of wineries in the county as well, and a history of home winemaking so I guess there is a precedent. There are good reasons for zoning rules about keeping retail businesses out of residential areas which have all been mentioned previously.

If you really want to start a small brewery be prepared for an expensive and slow endeavor. The current waiting list at the TTB is 160 days. And you must have a lease and the equipment before you apply.

15
Equipment and Software / Re: Another pump thread
« on: July 14, 2016, 09:02:20 PM »
What are you going to use it for? That is a really slow pump at 8l per minute. It will slow way down as it reaches its height limit of 10 feet.

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