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Messages - troybinso

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1
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Headspace and flavor/aroma stability?
« on: September 22, 2016, 05:16:31 PM »
Could there have been some oxygen in the keg? If there was and it sloshed around a lot it could have sped up the oxidation process.

2
Kegging and Bottling / Re: growler
« on: August 14, 2016, 02:06:40 PM »
Any screw top glass jug will work, but I really love the insulated stainless steel growlers. They keep the beer cold, you don't have to find a cap, and they don't break.

this looks like the one I have. It is easier to fill the ones with shoulders - they don't foam up as much.

https://www.amazon.com/Growler-Stainless-Insulated-64-Ounce-Beverages/dp/B00ZCM7V8K/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1471208744&sr=8-6&keywords=stainless+growler

3
The pump will cause the wort to get colder. When it runs through the hoses it is losing heat. I think you should go with a better wind shield and grind the grains the night before.

4
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrewer to Pro, Licensing
« on: July 15, 2016, 09:41:24 PM »
In my neck of the woods you can have a brewery in an outbuilding in the county, but not in city limits. There are dozens of wineries in the county as well, and a history of home winemaking so I guess there is a precedent. There are good reasons for zoning rules about keeping retail businesses out of residential areas which have all been mentioned previously.

If you really want to start a small brewery be prepared for an expensive and slow endeavor. The current waiting list at the TTB is 160 days. And you must have a lease and the equipment before you apply.

5
Equipment and Software / Re: Another pump thread
« on: July 14, 2016, 09:02:20 PM »
What are you going to use it for? That is a really slow pump at 8l per minute. It will slow way down as it reaches its height limit of 10 feet.

6
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Top Cropping crash course?
« on: July 14, 2016, 08:02:22 AM »

Many brewers skim their crop when the wort hits 50% apparent attenuation.  I recently discovered that this practice is not optimal with true Yorkshire strains.  The mid-head has to be "beaten" back into the wort, or one will end up with a diacetyl bomb.  I am now waiting until the end of fermentation to take my crop when using Yorkshire strains.


Can you elaborate on this? What causes the diacetyl to form if you don't beat the mid-head back?

7
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry Hop + Yeast Dump
« on: July 03, 2016, 11:34:07 AM »
You really need to cold crash it if you hope to keep the hop pellet floaties out of your finished beer. You only need to dry hop for a couple of days (or less) to extract the flavor you want, then get it as cold as possible. It usually takes a couple of days at cold temperatures for the hops and yeast to drop down to the bottom of the tank, but you don't risk extracting off flavors at cold temperatures. Well, I suppose if you left it in the tank with hops and yeast for months then it might be bad, but for a few weeks you should be fine. After the stuff has fallen, dump the yeast and hops out of the bottom until beer starts flowing, and then package it.

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry Hop + Yeast Dump
« on: July 01, 2016, 10:16:38 AM »
No, I'm not saying that. I'm just saying that if you are using a conical, the yeast at the very bottom of the cone is dormant. The OP said he had dumped some yeast, so I assumed that he didnt dump it all.

9
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry Hop + Yeast Dump
« on: July 01, 2016, 08:30:49 AM »
If you dropped the yeast out of the bottom of the conical that means it had flocculated and fallen down there. It does this when it is done fermenting. There is still a bunch of yeast in suspension after only 4 days of fermentation, so any last bit of cleaning up will still take place. The stuff at the bottom has basically fallen asleep.

10
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sankey D Kegs
« on: June 24, 2016, 07:53:59 AM »
Sankey kegs can be a little bit tricky to use because it is difficult to pull the spear out. It is essentially a closed system all the time and so you need to be able to clean and fill with it sealed up. That being said, if you can fill and clean easily, they are a much better system than corny kegs. There are so many ways a corny keg can fail - the connects, poppets, lid, pressure relief - can all leak gas (or beer). Sankey kegs only have one connection.


11
Ingredients / Re: Lovibond Squared
« on: June 22, 2016, 08:22:48 AM »
I think you a mis-equating "malty" with "crystal-malt flavor." Sure crystal malts add maltiness to a beer, but they also add a candy-like element that can be overpowering and can quickly push a beer into the undrinkable category.

I can't say that I have had a beer that is close to 50% crystal malt, but I have had some that are 15% and the crystal malt flavor was just too dominant. Personally, I have a maximum of about 10% crystal malt in beers that I make, and so yes, I think a 45% crystal malt beer would taste awful.

12
Ingredients / Re: Adding Fruit Puree in Stages
« on: June 16, 2016, 07:59:56 AM »
Although you can't take it out, you can blend back more base beer.

If your experience with overdoing it is from bottled extracts, then I totally understand why you are cautious. The difference is those extracts just don't taste that great no matter how little you use, but fresh fruit and the fruit purees are almost always delicious. Personally I would go with the whole can.

Also, once you open that thing it is kind of a mess. I'm not sure how you could store it in a sanitary manner.

13
Interesting that MO offers little perceptible difference to beer. I had generally found the same, but good to hear another confirmation.

Based on how many of these experiments are surprisingly insignificant, I assume that MO offers a strong perceptible difference, otherwise the tasters wouldn't have been able to tell them apart.

14
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 3711 French Saison
« on: June 02, 2016, 10:13:31 PM »
This yeast is a different beast when it comes to attenuation. You should shoot for an original gravity under 1.045 to get close to 5%. I've had it get down to 1.002 before.

I usually add body builders like rye or oats and mash around 158  to keep the final gravity up. Never had a problem with a slow or stalled ferment.

My basement is between 64 and 68 throughout the year. I pitch at about 66 and just let it go. Easiest fermentation ever.

15
General Homebrew Discussion / Pale ale yeast experiment
« on: May 29, 2016, 04:53:12 PM »
I split a batch of American Pale Ale/English Bitter hybrid between four different yeasts. They are all kegged, but a couple of them could use a little more carbonation. Anyway, the first obvious difference is that WY1098 has a bunch of diacetyl. I noticed that it had the longest lag time, so that could have been a factor. Also none of them got oxygen since I ran out. Just did some carboy shaking.

The four yeasts were 1056, 1968, 1469 and 1098. Maris otter base with c-45 and c-120 adding up to 5%. Cascade, Centennial and Azacca hops. I'll try to do a complete write up of the differences among the 4 yeasts.

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