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Messages - mabrungard

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1
Pimp My System / Re: Blatzhaus Electric Brauerei
« on: January 17, 2018, 07:46:42 PM »
That's a lot of grain in sacks on your shelves. Won't it stale quicker in the humidity...or is that an air conditioned room?

2
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Wishful thinking
« on: January 15, 2018, 06:11:26 PM »
Interesting thought.

I just realized that any of us could actually mash in our bowl if we added some crushed pils or pale malt to supply some enzymes. That could be tasty.

3
Equipment and Software / Re: brew bucket
« on: January 14, 2018, 08:29:22 PM »
Although one of my clubmates uses 10 gal cornies to ferment in, I don't think they are ideal. I'm not sure what my clubmate does to his corny, I'd be concerned that too much yeast would be carried out of the fermenter.

PS: I added a ball-lock gas in fitting to my conical and I too have pressurized transfers. It is a wise upgrade for all brewers...regardless of what vessel you use for fermentation.

4
I can't recommend rehydrating yeast with Fermax. Nor can I recommend that ANYONE use luke warm (104F) water for hydration since it's too easy for the typical homebrewer to make a mistake and use water that is too warm,killing the yeast. Using room-temperature water has been proven to be equally good as the luke warm water for rehydration in several research journal articles. So don't believe anyone, including Scott Laboratories, that you need to use luke warm water.

While you can read more about yeast rehydration on the Bru'n Water Facebook page, I can tell you that rehydrating with straight distilled or RO does not produce the best yeast viability. The simplest and easiest solution for yeast rehydration is to add epsom salt to either distilled or RO water. 1 to 2 grams epsom salt per quart of water is all you need.

5
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pelican hits a dinger again
« on: January 12, 2018, 04:54:05 PM »
Maybe the gin 'barrel' thing is just a way to get gin into beer? Probably for those botanicals!

6
Equipment and Software / Re: Bru'n Water files blocked by Gmail
« on: January 11, 2018, 07:03:34 PM »
Yes, malt provides all the Mg that yeast need for their metabolism. However, including ionic Mg in the water is useful for flavor. Excessive Mg levels are often cited as over 40 ppm. I don't believe there are any recommended water profiles in Bru'n Water with more than that.

7
Equipment and Software / Re: Can't open Bru'n Water
« on: January 10, 2018, 08:43:37 PM »
Robert, aren't you running the program on your phone? The supporter's version does have macros which probably won't run on the Excel phone app. The macros perform the save and recall feature for archiving your water and grain recipes. If you can live without that feature, you could probably save it as a version without macros and it might run on a phone.

8
Equipment and Software / Re: brew bucket
« on: January 10, 2018, 01:04:40 PM »
I have a 12gal Blichmann conical that has served well, but if I were to do it over again, I'd go with the Brewbucket. Far less expensive and it serves the same utility. The rotating racking port helps assure that you get most of the beer out and no trub. I don't drain yeast out of my conical's cone (since that would mean that more beer would be in the cone that I can't get with the racking port) and the Brewbucket's large lid means that you can reach in there and scoop out yeast dregs for storage and reuse.

9
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: fg 1.022
« on: January 10, 2018, 01:18:13 AM »
I used Windsor in a brown ale that started at 1.060 and ended at 1.022. It was nice and hoppy and it really wasn't overly sweet or unpleasant.

While Windsor yeast is intended for smaller beers made with some simple sugars or mashed to attenuate, it can make decent beers.

Don't assume that your beer is lost. Get it carbed up and make a better assessment then.

10
Equipment and Software / Re: Bru'n Water files blocked by Gmail
« on: January 09, 2018, 10:09:05 PM »
If you are a supporter and don't have version 4.2, you probably missed your upgraded file via Gmail's overactive spam filter and insufficient notifications. You'll need to send me an email with your name and the email address you donated under, and I'll send another copy.

11
Equipment and Software / Bru'n Water files blocked by Gmail
« on: January 08, 2018, 10:09:34 PM »
This is an alert to all you Bru'n Water users that have upgraded to the Supporter's version or are thinking about it. If you use Gmail to communicate with either Paypal or Bru'n Water, any reply that is set to your Gmail account with the Bru'n Water program, WILL BE PLACED IN YOUR SPAM FOLDER.

That really shouldn't be a big deal, but Gmail comes with the label for your Spam folder TURNED OFF. You won't know when you recieve any spam. For most of us, that might be a good thing. But for those that want the Bru'n Water communications, you're out of luck.

The fix is easy:

1. Click on the 'Gear' symbol at the top right of your Gmail console
2. Click on 'Settings'
3. Click on the 'Label' tab at the top of Settings page
4. Set either the 'Spam' or 'All Mail' labels to SHOW, instead of HIDE
5. You're done.
6. You should see that there is now an extra directory on the side of your Gmail console.
7. When Gmail marks some Spam, you'll immediately see it in your Spam folder and you can decide if its something you want...like Bru'n Water.

12
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NaCl?
« on: January 08, 2018, 09:09:56 PM »
Bicarb was based on assumption that with RO some alkalinity is needed. 

A program like Bru'n Water is very helpful for estimating the likely bicarb content needed in the mash. A dunkel has only a teeny bit of roast to add color, but not much else. It probably doesn't affect pH that much.

The proposed calcium, sulfate, and chloride levels might be a bit high for G Pils. I like Jever Pils and the water there has 75 ppm SO4 and only 30 ppm Cl. The calcium is likely to be lower too. Lagers don't need ANY calcium since the malt provides all that the yeast need, but you'll probably want to have some in there for oxalate reduction.

13
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NaCl?
« on: January 08, 2018, 06:29:52 PM »
I wouldn't expect that a Munich Dunkel would require alkalinity in the mashing water, so the sodium bicarb is a surprise. But if the pH prediction says it'll need it, then add it.

I know a lot of brewers rely on the advice posted on the HomebrewTalk forum in which only RO and calcium chloride are recommended for most brewing. That advice is based on an adversion to sulfate from one of the lead members. However, I find that adding sulfate salts to brewing water can help improve the dryness of the beer's finish and its overall impression. Sulfate does not make beer bitter, it makes it dryer.

So if you feel your Dunkel doesn't finish dry enough, then it calls for sulfate. I do include a light sulfate content in all my brewing, say in the 20 to 50 range for malty beers. 

14
Ingredients / Re: options for brewing water
« on: January 07, 2018, 07:46:34 PM »

I've always assumed everything is 0, and my understanding is that is basically correct if the RO system is working properly.

No and especially no in the case of this highly mineralized water. RO removes a large percentage of the ionic content. The percentage removal is dependent upon the ion species. Single valent species like sodium and chloride pass through the membrane at higher percentage than divalent species like calcium and sulfate. For a typical RO membrane, its only removing about 96 percent of the sodium and chloride, but more like 98 to 99 percent of the calcium and magnesium.

For the highly mineralized water shown here, the RO product water is probably going to have much more than zero for any of the ions. But, you're probably only going to be 10 to 20 ppm off. 

15
Ingredients / Re: options for brewing water
« on: January 07, 2018, 02:33:39 PM »
That is exceptionally mineralized water. Its not suited for brewing, but I agree that pre-boiling would improve it slightly. But even that pretreatment wouldn't make the water well suited for brewing. RO is your best bet.

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