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Messages - mabrungard

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Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B and haze, redux
« on: September 20, 2018, 08:03:32 PM »
They say that gallotannins (active ingredient in Brewtan) are mixed with iron to create black or blue ink. The slight color that we see in Brewtan treated water is consistent with that coloration. Its just that its much more dilute.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Acidifying finished IPA
« on: September 20, 2018, 08:00:30 PM »
I've post-fermentation acidified some of my beers to make them crisper when I didn't feel that the yeast had done enough to acidify the beer. I just dosed a glass of beer until I found the level I thought tasted right.

I recommend that you get a graduated dropper or pipette for your trials. The first thing to do is to count out how many drops of your acid equate to 1 mL of that acid. Don't do it with water since some acids are more viscous than water and the drop count could differ.

Then get a known quantity of your beer and add say 5 or 10 drops and mix it into the beer and taste. If its not good enough, give it more. When you find a dose that meets your tastes, scale that dose for your keg.

Hey! You'll get to hear me say 'exactly' too many times. I hope that everyone enjoys a brief introduction to brewing water chemistry.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Baltic Porter water profile
« on: September 18, 2018, 04:52:20 PM »
BP is not really a water-driven style. I'm leaning to the suggestion that Denny made, but I'd not discount a decent sulfate content in the water since big malty beer styles can benefit from the drying that sulfate provides to the beer's finish. It helps make it more drinkable and less cloying. We should all be aware that Burton Ales and Imperial Stouts were made in Burton and their high sulfate water made them better for those styles. I'm not recommending Burton level sulfate, but I'm hoping you get the point that sulfate is OK when your beer gets nice and malty. 

I don't dispute that the smoked malt in that recipe might be irrelevant due to its teeny percentage, but it could be a nice nuance. I like a teeny bit of wood smoke in my Scottish ales (not peat). Why not in a BP?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Bo Pils Water Profile
« on: September 13, 2018, 12:09:03 PM »
I don't use that much mineralization in my Pils or Helles. I aim more for the PsuedoPils profile in Bru'n Water and I add all the salts to the mash so that the calcium content in the mash tun is above 40 ppm. The mineral-free sparging water brings all the levels down in the final wort. The supporter's version of Bru'n Water handles that calculation for the effect of adding all the minerals to the mash.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oktoberfest recipe
« on: September 07, 2018, 05:47:00 PM »
We just studied O'fests and Festbier at my club meeting a night ago. One thing that was apparent from the samples from Germany was that they were much more Pilsy and less Munichy than most of us expected. US homebrewers and drinkers expect those styles to be richer, munichy, or crystally.

I'm concerned that your Munich content is getting on up there. 

CO is a product of incomplete combustion. The problem is that its difficult to visually assess if combustion is complete. Having a CO monitor is your best assurance that you aren't creating a hazardous space. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Monster Mill popping loose
« on: September 05, 2018, 04:44:55 PM »
I think they still need lubrication, but it isn't much. Every 10 or 20 hours of actual use is probably appropriate. For a homebrew mill, that could be years between lubrications.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Monster Mill popping loose
« on: September 04, 2018, 08:33:12 PM »
If that's the mill with the 2 inch rollers, I can tell you that buying those upgraded eccentric knobs is very helpful. They NEVER shift.

However, back to your problem. There are two ways that the eccentric adjusters can reach their XX thousandths setting: over the top or up from the bottom. Both of your eccentrics need to be set on the same side (bottom or top). If you've been setting them on one side and they have been popping out, you need to try setting them from the other side of the eccentric. I don't know which side they should be set on so that they don't pop out.

Equipment and Software / Re: Sodium metabisulfite in Bru'n Water 5.3
« on: September 04, 2018, 08:26:26 PM »
Rob, you were just luckily next in line. There are still plenty of users waiting and it does take time to deliver all those files since my email provider won't let me send out more than a hundred messages a day, each with a nearly 1 meg file attachment.

Sorry for the delay to all the great Bru'n Water supporters.

Equipment and Software / Re: Scratches on Anvil Fermenter...
« on: September 02, 2018, 09:53:46 PM »
Isn't that a brushed stainless steel finish on the interior? That has the opportunity to harbor organics and organisms too. However, I found that it didn't happen in my stainless conical. If you're really concerned with scratches, you should be looking for a polished stainless finish. 

Equipment and Software / Re: propane solenoid - source?
« on: September 02, 2018, 02:54:37 PM »
I'm sure there are electric solenoid gas valves used for home furnaces. Those should work.

Equipment and Software / Re: wort oxygenation
« on: August 29, 2018, 04:32:10 PM »
The larger pore size will be fine. As slowbrew mentioned, the important point is that you apply oxygen at a rate that is slow enough that the bubbles are well-dissolved by the time they reach the wort surface and there isn't any escaping the surface. It does mean you'll have to oxygenate longer, but it will be a better use of the oxygen.

Remember, you can overoxygenate your wort with pure oxygen.

Equipment and Software / Re: Bru'n Water Sparge acidification for RO?
« on: August 29, 2018, 11:49:37 AM »
I do fly sparging  with ro water. My understanding is that the ph of the sparge water needs to be less than 6. It takes very little acid to get there. So, are you saying that I don't need to do that now?

As indicated above, water with nearly zero buffering will easily assume the pH of the mash. The pH of very low alkalinity sparging water (like RO or distilled) does not need to be below 6.

Beer Recipes / Re: Tamarind stout recipe
« on: August 28, 2018, 06:27:27 PM »
Its pretty sour stuff. I have some tamarind pulp at home now. I wouldn't put too much in. You might try a measured amount in a glass of any lightly flavored beer (not too hoppy or roasty) and see what that effect is and to help you gauge a dose for 6 gal. It's always better to have too little than too much.

If the beer ends too sour with the tamarind addition, then you can consider adding a basic buffer like chalk or baking soda to help neutralize the excess acidity.

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