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Messages - mabrungard

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Ingredients / Re: RO Water Profile
« on: Today at 12:14:27 AM »
If you're confident that your system is going to provide that water quality, I suggest that you revise the RO profile that comes loaded in Bru'n Water. That profile is entered at the bottom of the Water Adjustment sheet...scroll way down the sheet to find it. Those blue cells can be modified as you see fit.


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Oxidation question
« on: July 11, 2019, 11:25:03 AM »
NEIPA undergoes significant dry hopping that can introduce more oxygen into the beer than can be consumed by yeast (if fermenting) and definitely too much if its completed fermenting. So that is one avenue for oxygen ingress. The other major avenue is if you use some form of open transfer where the beer is exposed to air for any amount of time. It sounds like your CO2 purging of bottles should help avoid oxygen, but if you're using a bottling bucket it may not be enough. 

Air-free transfers are required in beers like NEIPA.

Beer Recipes / Re: Water Profile for Hef.
« on: July 04, 2019, 02:03:45 PM »
Wow!! I'm Marin now?? I'm hoping my name fits me to a T.

Chalk certainly is usable in brewing and its not a mistake to include that option in a calculator. The real problem is that users don't understand how difficult it is to dissolve chalk in water. Unless the user is employing pressurized CO2 to supply the carbonic acid necessary to achieve solubility, its not going to work as the brewer assumes or intends. It appears that I should incorporate some sort of pop up warning when a user puts a value in the chalk addition cell.

The other thing that needs to be pointed out is that many Bru'n Water profiles include the alkalinity (presented as bicarbonate in Bru'n Water) that would be present in the raw water from their water source. In many cases, the brewers of old had to implement techniques or additions to neutralize that alkalinity. That is the case in Bru'n Water too. While you could ADD that alkalinity to create a more authentic starting water profile, you would almost certainly have to neutralize it in the mashing and sparging water to produce a desirable beer. I suggest that brewers ignore the bicarbonate and calcium targets that are presented in water profiles and only add the minerals and acids necessary to produce an acceptable mashing pH and low sparging water alkalinity. The rest of the water profile ion concentrations are what you should consider your real targets.

Sulfate is indeed a very useful and DESIRABLE component in brewing German beers. One only has to taste a good German Pils or Kolsch to know that sulfate is an important feature in their overall beer perception. Even in southern Bavarian styles, the low sulfate content provides a slight drying in the beer's finish to help them avoid being cloying or overly full. Unfortunately, there are under-educated individuals that continue myths such as sulfate causes undesirable effects with noble hops or sulfate will create bitter beer. I can only state that they are incorrect in their perceptions and admissions. There is room for PROPER sulfate levels in German beer brewing. It should be low in Bavarian styles.   

All Grain Brewing / Re: How to Raise pH
« on: July 01, 2019, 11:40:07 PM »
The water I use consistently has the pH of 4.8. 

How are you determining the water has a pH of 4.8???? Since it would be exceptional that any potable water source would have a pH that low, I sincerely doubt that this finding is true.

Don't worry about water pH in your brewing. As mentioned above, it has extremely little effect on wort or beer pH. There are many factors in brewing water to worry about, but pH is not one of them.

That low pH can manifest in thinness and with darker beers, in lighter color, at least in my experience.

That’s my experience also. An overly low pH enhances the proteolysis of the wort and that reduces body. So adding bicarbonate to avoid that condition is a good idea. But I don’t think that adding bicarbonate to a normal wort or beer would not benefit in the same manner.

Equipment and Software / Re: Solid bottom brew pots??
« on: June 15, 2019, 01:46:28 PM »
Based on what I've seen, welding fittings into SST kettles is not really a great option. Using swaged fittings and silver soldering is easily accomplished at the homebrew level and is plenty strong and durable enough.

Beer Recipes / Re: Simple Cream Ale
« on: June 14, 2019, 12:20:12 AM »
Peach? I’ve never experienced that in any of the beers I ferment with US-05. I would like to have that note in my beers.

Beer Recipes / Re: Simple Cream Ale
« on: June 12, 2019, 01:03:07 AM »
The flaked barley will certainly enhance the heading for that beer, but I find that it does add a grainy flavor that I don't appreciate. I prefer using flaked wheat for enhancing heading. It seems more neutral tasting to me. A 1/4 pound is more than sufficient.

Club Support Subcomittee / Welcome to Club Support
« on: June 08, 2019, 01:39:45 PM »
This forum provides any homebrew club (or person wanting to start a club) with the opportunity to ask questions about and find resources for anything related to clubs. Sometimes we have answers ready and sometimes there are questions that haven't been pondered before.

We invite you to explore the Club Support newsletters that AHA has produced over the years, but also feel free to post things that you would like to know or question or your experiences that work for your club.

Thanks for your interest,

Martin Brungard
Club Support Subcommittee Chair

Last time I was at the restaurant supply store they happened to have it for a little over $1/ft.

Now I'm curious what a restaurant store would stock that for? What are they doing in kitchens these days?

The Pub / Re: What is it with ukuleles and beer?
« on: May 30, 2019, 10:42:31 AM »
I went to a bar in Dublin that holds a big uke get-together every Tuesday night. People from around the world were there. It was packed. Good time!

Equipment and Software / Re: Green from Plate Chiller
« on: May 27, 2019, 01:37:43 PM »
A simple pressure test is to hook up the water hose to the chiller and block the outlet. If water comes out the wort circuit, there is a leak.

I have had green water in my chiller when I made the mistake of storing it with StarSan in it. I’m not sure that an alkaline cleaner can corrode like that. But it is important to occasionally use an alkaline cleaner to remove organic deposits. It is not necessary to do every time, but a good reverse flush after every use, is.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Hefe recipe thoughts
« on: May 13, 2019, 12:46:03 AM »
Rinse, Denny? I've not heard of that before. How and Why?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: wort is astringent
« on: May 08, 2019, 01:25:47 AM »
Low wort gravity increases the osmotic stress that pulls tannins and silicates out of the grist. Too low gravity in final runnings is the primary cause of tannin issues in beer from my experience. I don't feel that pH or temperature are nearly as important as this low gravity effect.

I know that tannin extraction is mostly pH based, but have you taken a gravity reading on the very last runoff that you are collecting from your mashtun?  Perhaps you are dipping below the "accepted" gravity for extraction (1.010)? 

I am much less inclined to blame it on pH. In my experience, the final gravity of the runnings is the greatest factor. I try to stop before falling below 4 brix. In a way, that is like a batch sparge.

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