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Messages - justinrice1127

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Ingredients / adding scotch to a Scotch Ale
« on: February 21, 2013, 09:15:06 PM »
I brewed an Old Chub (Oskar Blues) Scotch Ale extract clone and am wondering about adding some actual scotch to the 2ndary?  I have a bottle of Glenlivet single malt aged 12 yrs.  I have added bourbon to a Porter before by soaking 2 oz of oak chips in the bourbon and also by adding 2 oz of actual bourbon to to the 2ndary.  I just don't know much about scotch.  Would you even recommend adding scotch to a Scotch Ale?  If so, how.......soaking in oak chips/spiral/cubes, or adding some directly to the 2ndary....or how much?  I brewed this beer on 2/11 and am still getting some airlock activity.  Is this common for a beer that has been in the primary for 10+ days?  How long should I let it sit in the primary....after the airlock stops....before racking it into the 2ndary? 

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3.  Full boil better than partial

Full boil as in start with 5 total gal in brew kettle, or maybe do 6 gal in the kettle, before starting boil?  Recipe calls for a 90 min boil.

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Ingredients / Re: Adding gypsum for IPAs
« on: February 15, 2013, 03:18:40 PM »
It looks like the spring water would be OK to use, its nearly distilled quality. 

1 gram of gypsum per gallon of water contributes about 150 ppm sulfate.  Since volumetric measurements for powders can be quite inaccurate, I don't know what to tell you as to how much of a teaspoon to add to approximate that for your batch.  I'm sure someone else has a conversion.

http://www.convertunits.com/from/gram/to/tsp

Looks like apprx 1/4 tsp would be appx 185 ppm (falling in the 100 - 200 pm target range). 

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Ingredients / Re: Natural Spring water vs Distilled water
« on: February 15, 2013, 03:04:29 PM »
You can find the mineral content on page 17 and some more for total hardness and alkalinity. Distilled is just wet, the spring water is almost RO. Use what is cheapest.

https://eservice.ozarkawater.com/Documents/oz_BrandWaterQualityReport.pdf

Distilled is usually just a bit more expensive, but not by too much.  Thanks for that website!  My IPA recipe calls for adding gypsum to the boil.  Would you still recommend one over the other, or a mix of both per the following info......

{referring to pages 17 & 18}:

Natural Spring:
Calcium = Not detected
Sulfate = 1.4 - 5.7 ppm
Sodium = 2.4 - 11.2 ppm

Alkalinity = Not detected - 9.2 ppm
Hardness, Calcium = 5.6 - 8.6 ppm
pH (units) = 5.6 - 6.3 ppm

Distilled:
Calcium = Not detected
Sulfate = Not detected
Sodium = Not detected

Alkalinity = Not detected
Hardness, Calcium = Not detected
pH (units) = 5.7 - 6.2

*Natural spring water also contained: Barium, Bicarbonate, Bromide, Chloride, Fluoride, Magnesium, Nitrate, & Potassium



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Ingredients / Re: Natural Spring water vs Distilled water
« on: February 15, 2013, 02:59:32 PM »
I use a 50/50 blend, mostly because spring water is cheaper.

Does your tap water taste good? If so, just run it through a Brita filter. It gets to be a PITA to buy 10 gallons of water before every brew!

My tap water tastes pretty bad.  I can usually find the natural spring water for $1/gal and the distilled for about that or $1.50/gal.  I usually only buy 6-7 gal per batch, but yeah, it just adds onto the already not so cheap brewing expense. 

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Ingredients / Re: Adding gypsum for IPAs
« on: February 15, 2013, 02:54:37 PM »
Ideally, a brewer needs to know what the ionic content of the extract and brewing water is before deciding on adding more minerals.  In some cases, finding the extract ionic content and its result in your beer can be a little tough.  Finding out the ionic content of your water should be a little easier, especially if you start with RO or distilled water.  In many cases, using RO or distilled water is safest when brewing with extract.  That way you don't have to worry about overdosing any particular ions. 

I wouldn't increase the sulfate concentration any more than about 250 ppm since there is some sulfate in those extracts. 

Add the gypsum to the boil.  It does not matter much when, but I would add it early so that there is more opportunity to fully dissolve.


I was given this info on Ozarka waters (distilled and natural spring) of which I will use one of the two.  It looks like it would definitely be okay to add the gypsum to the boil when using either the natural spring water (only apprx 1-6 ppm) or distilled water.

https://eservice.ozarkawater.com/Documents/oz_BrandWaterQualityReport.pdf

Referring to pages 17 & 18......

Natural Spring:
Calcium = Not detected
Sulfate = 1.4 - 5.7 ppm
Sodium = 2.4 - 11.2 ppm

Alkalinity = Not detected - 9.2 ppm
Hardness, Calcium = 5.6 - 8.6 ppm
pH (units) = 5.6 - 6.3 ppm

Distilled:
Calcium = Not detected
Sulfate = Not detected
Sodium = Not detected

Alkalinity = Not detected
Hardness, Calcium = Not detected
pH (units) = 5.7 - 6.2

*Natural spring water also contained: Barium, Bicarbonate, Bromide, Chloride, Fluoride, Magnesium, Nitrate, & Potassium

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Ingredients / Re: Adding gypsum for IPAs
« on: February 15, 2013, 12:40:58 PM »
Since I don't have information on the ionic content of the spring water, I would go with the distilled water if you really want this batch to shine.  You will want to add 100 or 200 ppm of sulfate using gypsum to make the beer dry better and enhance the hopping. 

How do I determine how to get 100 to 200 ppm of sulfate as the bottle of gypsum just says use 1-2 tsp per 5 gal and the bottle contains 2 oz?

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Ingredients / Natural Spring water vs Distilled water
« on: February 15, 2013, 11:59:44 AM »
I am brewing an IPA extract clone and have both Ozarka natural spring water and Ozarka distilled water in the gal jugs. Are there any differences between the two when it comes to extract bewing? If so, would you recommend using one over the other?

I am wanting to switch to all-grain brewing soon.  Is one water better for all grain brewing, just for future reference?

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Ingredients / Re: Adding gypsum for IPAs
« on: February 15, 2013, 11:26:01 AM »
Finding out the ionic content of your water should be a little easier, especially if you start with RO or distilled water.  In many cases, using RO or distilled water is safest when brewing with extract.  That way you don't have to worry about overdosing any particular ions. 

From my review of the major US extract producers, you wouldn't have to worry about excessive sulfate in their extracts.  For Briess extract, you do have to worry about elevated sodium so don't add any sodium or use a water with much sodium. 



I have both Ozarka distilled and Ozarka natural spring waters.  Would you recommend one over the other to use for brewing?  I unfortunately don't have the tools/set up to make/have RO water and I never use just plain tap water.  Also, I'm using Alexander's Pale Malt Extract.  Do you know if they are known to have more sulfate in their extracts than normal, like Briess does?

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Whooee I like that beer. What is the hop schedule?


Columbus & Chinook (90 Min)
Amarillo (30 min)
Cascade, Amarillo, Centennial, & Simcoe (0 min)
Cascade, Amarillo, Columbus (dry hop - for 10 days)

Would you recommend adding gypsum to the boil?  If so, how much and at what point?  Also, I have both Ozarka distilled and Ozarka natural spring water?  Would you recommend one over the other to use for my water? 

11
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermax Yeast Nutrient
« on: February 15, 2013, 10:53:03 AM »
I don't think it specifies must/wort, but it is sold for both.  I'd agree 1tsp/gallon is a lot. Unless they've added some filler, which I doubt, I'd go with 1tsp/5gal.  Wine must has fewer nutrients than wort, which is why you'd use less.

Yeah, it doesn't specify must/wort on the bottle.  I'll go with 1 tsp/5 gal.  Thanks!

Adding at the end of the boil.....like w/in the last 15 min, 10 min, or 5 min?

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Yeast and Fermentation / Fermax Yeast Nutrient
« on: February 14, 2013, 12:28:39 PM »
I bought some Crosby & Baker Fermax Yeast Nutrient and on the bottle it recommends to use 1 tsp per gal, however I've been told to only use 1 tsp per 5 gal.  Which is correct?

Also, at what point in the boil is it best to add it?

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Ingredients / Adding gypsum for IPAs
« on: February 14, 2013, 12:25:47 PM »
I'm making a Russian River Blind Pig IPA extract clone.  I've heard that adding gypsum can accentuate the hop character of the beer.  Do you recommend adding gypsum to the boil?  If so, how much.....and at what point do you put it in the boil?

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This recipe was posted in the Zymurgy July/Aug 2012 issue. 
Russian River Blind Pig IPA
5 gal, 90 min boil, 62 IBU, 6.1% ABV, OG 14.25, FG 3.25. 

I just had a few questions about the 5 gal extract version:


"Substitute pale malt with 7.25 lbs LME.  Steep crystal and dextrin malts in 2.5 gal of water at 160-170 degrees F for 30 min.  Rinse grains, add extract, dissolve completely, and proceed with boil"


1) at what temp of water should I rinse the grains with after steeping?    - (170 degrees?)
 
2) how much rinse water should I use?    - (1.25 gal....I have heard half of the steeping water volume?  Or should I use more like 2 gal?)
 
3) do I add any water to the kettle {that already contains the 2.5 gal grain tea water} to bring the volume up to a certain total volume for the boil?  -  (per other IPA recipes, I've read that bringing it up to 3 gal or 3.5 gal for the boil is recommended?  I've also heard to boil with 5 total gal for the whole boil time?  {I use an 8 gal kettle}
 
4) do I bring the total volume of 'grain tea' water to a boil, flame out, stir in the 7.25 lbs LME, then proceed with the boil, adding the first hop editions?  Or do I just stir in the LME (in the apprx 170 degree 'grain tea' water) before I even turn the burner on to bring to a boil...dissolve LME, then bring to a boil, adding the first hop editions?

5) should I even be putting in all 7.25 lbs of the LME at the beginning and none at the end?  A lot of other recipes has putting in "X" amount of DME prior to boiling and then "X" amount of LME w/ 15 min left in the boil.  This particular recipe only calls for LME and it sounds like it calls for putting it in at the beginning.  I just didn't know if splitting it up would be beneficial when making an IPA. 
 
5) at what point do I top the wort volume up to a total of 5 gal......after the last hop additions have dissolved that went in at 0 min?  Or into the glass carboy after the wort has been poured in, prior to aerating and pitching?  Or does it matter as long as the temp is around 70 degrees for pitching the yeast?



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Ingredients / Coffee Stout
« on: September 18, 2012, 01:53:12 PM »
I am making my first beer with coffee, it will be a coffee stout.  I am brewing this for a local competition that is held in early November.  My friend owns a local coffee shop and sent me some of his roasted beans and some liquid espresso and cold brewed coffee.  He recommends that I put all three in the secondary fermenter, when the recipe that I am using vaguely states to just "add 3 oz of coffee to the secondary".  It doesn't specify as to grind them completely up, just crack them, or to just put them in without doing anything to them.  The recipe also doesn't state how long to leave the coffee in the secondary.  So, I wanted to see what you would recommend on 1) how to do the beans (grind up, crack, leave whole), 2) how long would you leave the beans in the secondary, and 3) would you or have you ever used the liquid espresso and or liquid cold brew....if so, how much and how long would you let it sit in the secondary before bottling?

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