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Messages - bboy9000

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1
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentis W-34/70
« on: July 25, 2015, 09:18:08 PM »
I thought 5 at first glance but after closer examination I can't tell.  Just hope your LHBS treated it well and pray to Ninkasi

2
All Things Food / Smokin time
« on: July 25, 2015, 09:12:37 PM »
My rib mop is beer, bacon grease, and bbq.

What's a mop? JK.  IMO good meat just needs some dry rub.  No mop or sauce.  Let the meat flavor shine.

P.S. I'm from KC where everything is allegedly mopped with sauce.

3
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: New Belgium Long Table
« on: July 25, 2015, 09:08:10 PM »
It's Leffe with a little more body and clove. 

4
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: New Belgium Long Table
« on: July 24, 2015, 10:07:16 AM »
I had Long Table last night and I thought it tasted like a blond ale.  Very clovey.

5
Kegging and Bottling / Re: $69 kegs
« on: July 23, 2015, 06:36:01 PM »


All of my kegs seem to have that problem. I wonder if there is a fix for it.
http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/taps-faucets-pid-23-41.html
Lol. That's hilarious.  Though probably a good thing if your kid is a teenager.

6
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Free hops
« on: July 23, 2015, 06:33:41 PM »
Sounds like a nice profile for an APA.  I can't wait to get my free hops.  I'm eager to get the mail every day.  Hopefully the AHA didn't forget me.  I had trouble renewing my membership online for the second year in a row.

7
All Grain Brewing / Sweet IPA
« on: July 22, 2015, 09:46:38 PM »
Grain Bill ( might be the problem)
14 lb 2 row
4 lb Pale Malt
2 lb Munich Malt 10L
.5 lb Cara amber 30L
.5 lb Honey

Do you think the munich is a little to much?

I normally treat Munich malt as a base malt but in an IPA it's a specialty malt- especially at 2 pounds. Combine that with the other malts you have that makes 3 pounds of specialty malt. I try to stick to 90% base malt and 10% specialty malt. I do not go above Crystal 20 for my specialty malt. For a double IPAA I would keep it at Crystal 10. Based off your original gravity and Final gravity it appears you had over 85% attenuation. Pitching the proper amount of yeast does not appear to be a problem. What I like to know is what strain of east did you use for a double IPA I would stick with the Chico strain wyeast 1056 or white labs 001. I have found that even the American ale 2 ,wyeast 1272, subdues the hop flavor.

Edit:  as others have mentioned I would consider adding some simple sugar. You did this by adding a half pound of honey but I would increase it to 1 pound of table sugar and add it gradually after primary fermentation is starting to slow down. With a beer bordering on 10% ABVI would wait until about date three fermentation and add about a quarter or one third of a pound of granulated table sugar to the fermentation vessel at a time until you get about a pound of sugar in the vessel.

8
Kegging and Bottling / Re: $69 kegs
« on: July 22, 2015, 05:12:38 PM »

I have six of the AIH kegs , no issues except they seem to run dry too quickly.

So Chinese kegs are "leaky."  Or at least that's what you tell the SWMBO.

9
All Grain Brewing / Re: Question about batch sparge timing
« on: July 22, 2015, 12:56:49 PM »
Does one need to wait a few minutes after adding the sparge water for the grain bed to resettle into a filter bed?   To avoid getting particles into the brew kettle

10
Kegging and Bottling / $69 kegs
« on: July 21, 2015, 11:01:22 PM »
China is the world's leading steel producer, including stainless.  If you don't think that your car, kitchen pots, etc use Chinese steel, you're kidding yourself.

Yeah, this^

I have nothing against products just because they are made in China.  My TV and laptop were made in China.  I'm not kidding myself.  I personally know homebrewers and professional brewers that have poorly made Chinese SS vessels and kegs that either rust, break or are incompatible with other equipment.  That is why I have some reservations.  That said, it appears from the comments on this thread, and those on the AiH site, that these particular Chinese made kegs are sound.  I will strongly consider buying these kegs the next time they go on sale.

11
Deshutes gives the stats with the grain and hop bills.  They don't give percentages for the grains or times for the hop additions though.

12
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sweet IPA
« on: July 20, 2015, 04:54:04 PM »

So I made a DIPA and it finished at 1.013. Mashed at 153. Way to malty or caramel tasting. maybe 8 oz of crystal to 5 gallon batch? I use RO and had not been changing PH? wondering if that would be part to blame? Used over 12 oz of hops and you get more caramel than hop? real bummer

What kind of crystal was it?  How much yeast did you pitch and what strain was it?  Will you share the recipe?  I doubt 8 oz. of C-10 or C-20 would make it too sweet.

13
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Building body into a sour ale
« on: July 20, 2015, 04:47:29 PM »

Given how the pros do it, I suppose the answer might be brew it again and next time it might have more body.

Maybe the OP can try adding some raw wheat, oats or carapils to the recipe.  Re brew, ferment and blend it with the acidic one.  Experiment with 10 oz servings with different ratios until it gets the desired body.

14
Yeast and Fermentation / Building body into a sour ale
« on: July 20, 2015, 03:38:56 PM »
If you find Flemmish reds with body it's because they have been backsweetened or blended with non-sour beer. It's just not traditionally appropriate for the style.

I believe blending sour beers with newer, non-sour beer is actually a traditional practice. On the other hand the sweeter sour beers that people like today are often back sweetened with artificial sweeteners like aspartame .  From what I've read it would be acceptable to add a little body by blending in some younger beer. I think a little bit of body in a Flanders red would be fine as it's not a Lambic or an American sour ale.

I did a poor job of stating my point. I did not mean to suggest blending or sweetening the sour beer is not traditional.

What I should have said is:

A Flemish red would not typically have much body unless it has been backsweetened or blended with non-sour beer. There is absolutely nothing wrong with blending. I'm not a fan of the reds I've tried that were backsweetened but there is some tradition behind sweetening sour beer as well.

What I meant was there is a difference between blending and back-sweetening.  From what I've read about sour styles and heard in interviews with Jean Van Roy, is that blending is traditional, done to achieve balance.  The sugars in the younger beer come from using raw grains that provide unfermentable (or slowly ferment able) sugars to the beer.  Back-sweetening with sugars (aspartame and saccharine) and syrups is a newer practice meant to attract a younger demographic to Belgian beer (think Bud Light Lime or wine coolers) Yes, both methods add sugar to the finished product but from different sources and for different purposes if my understanding is correct.

http://sourbeerblog.com/designing-and-brewing-a-flanders-red-ale/

https://byo.com/stout/item/2989-flanders-red-style-profile

http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/751

http://www.saveur.com/article/Wine-and-Drink/A-Beer-Called-Lambic

15
Kegging and Bottling / Re: $69 kegs
« on: July 20, 2015, 12:12:07 PM »

They are made in China.

I just saw that in the Q&A section on their website.  I think I'll pass.  I don't need 5G of beer flooding the apartment below me.

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