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Messages - yso191

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Thanks for your input.

My thinking is that 80* is the top end of the range recommended by White Labs, and is only an increase of 14*

Yeast and Fermentation / Fermentation profile for Belgian Dark Strong?
« on: March 27, 2017, 04:51:18 PM »
I am planning a Belgian dark Strong inspired by Westvleteren 12.  I'll be using WLP530.  I'm thinking I'll pitch at 66*.  My question is about the temperature ramp.  Should I:

 -Keep the temperature of the fermentation chamber at a constant and let the yeast free-rise


 - Put the temperature probe in the thermowell and control the fermenting beer's temperature

If the latter, I'm thinking leaving it at 66* for 2-3 days then ramp 2 degrees per day until sitting at 80*, then leave it there until FG.


I went with the gear driven JSP because two of the other mills I have had would periodically just sit there and spin the driven roller while the passive roller did nothing.  I'd bang on them, stick stuff down into the hopper to try to force some grain into the teeth of the rollers, etc.  Very frustrating.  And yes I tried various gap settings.

Like I said in a previous post, the JSP just chews through the grain.  I turn it on, load the hopper and come back when it is done.

Here is how I have it set up:

I got the cabinet from the local ReStore (Habitat for Humanity's 2nd hand store) for ~$10, put wheels on it, had a friend build the top so that the shaft from the motor would match that of the mill, and then wired a light switch to turn it on and off.  Voila! I just stick a grain bucket in the door under a custom grain chute (a leg from a pair of chest waders).  BTW Thanks to AmandaK for the sourcing the motor (from

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Matured Beers
« on: March 15, 2017, 03:09:04 PM »
My understanding and limited experience is that maturity varies greatly with beer type.  Some beers are best as soon as they are carbonated.  Others can take years.  Like most things in life, there is a spectrum.

Yes.  But surprisingly for me was the realization that the beers everyone says should not be aged (APA/AIPA) do IMO need a couple of weeks to come into their own.  Stouts are a different issue.  I am drinking a barrel aged imperial stout I brewed two years ago and it shows no sign of being over the hill.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Idea for experimentation
« on: March 14, 2017, 02:03:30 PM »
Ha ha!  Nothing is ever simple is it?  The bottom line for me is a practical application.  For those who use a transparent fermentation vessel, what is the maximum exposure to average (I know...) indoor light (where most fermenting & bottling occurs) without off-flavors occurring.

It seems this would be fairly easy.  Have brewers detail every bit of time the wort/beer is exposed to light, with some designated for specific periods of time (i.e.: 5 minutes, 10, 20, 30).  All one would have to do is open the cloth covering, open the door or whatever else is blocking the light.

I guess I am arguing for the middle of the road approach - something that would be indicative, but not worthy of publishing in a peer reviewed journal.

General Homebrew Discussion / Idea for experimentation
« on: March 14, 2017, 10:23:56 AM »
What prompted the thought was looking at an ad for this fermentation vessel which is clear:

I'm curious about how much light it actually takes to skunk a beer.

So let's take an IPA which has lots of Alpha Acids available to twist into mercaptans by light.  How much exposure to light does it actually take to get above the taste threshold for skunkiness/lightstruck?

There is more than one organization on this site dedicated to experimentation which is why I posted the question rather than messaging someone.

Ingredients / Re: HSI
« on: March 11, 2017, 07:31:15 PM »
What's HSI?
Hop storage ????

The amount of hops alpha acid potential lost in 6 months when the hops are stored at a constant temperature of 68 F (20 C)

The number that is given when asking the producer is the level of degradation at the time the hops were analyzed for alpha/beta/HSI.  It is a good predictor of future degradation, but as mentioned above that depends primarily on oxygen contact and temperature going forward.  To say it a different way the HSI number is merely a snapshot of a single point in time.

Ingredients / Re: HSI
« on: March 09, 2017, 09:35:14 AM »
HSI varies greatly by variety, how long between when the hops were harvested and when they were pelletized, and other variables.  You can find the HSI of a given lot by contacting the company that processed the hops.  Please note that HSI only relates to the Alpha content - not the oils, so it only applies to bittering.  It may be correlated with losses in oils but I am unaware of that correlation if it exists.

Ingredients / New IPA hops
« on: March 08, 2017, 07:17:47 PM »
My friend and former boss at BSG just called me saying they had some over-runs and wanted to know if I wanted some hops...  Umm... let me think about that for a nano-second.

So I picked up several that I have not brewed with before and am wondering how they would work together in an IPA: Pacific Jade, Waimea, & Rakau.  Any thoughts on how these would work together in making a Down Under IPA?

Ingredients / Re: How many ounces of hops in your American IPA?
« on: March 06, 2017, 09:22:21 PM »
I rarely brew the same IPA twice, but my best uses 10.5 ounces in a 90-minute hot whirlpool (starting right at flameout), with 6.5 ounces of dry hops. I brew 2.5 gallon batches, so double that for a 5 gallon batch (that would be 21 oz in the whirlpool and 13 oz dry hops).

That said, there is a diminishing return on hops, and you also run the risk of harsh grassiness with too much hop material. I've been playing with different temperature steeps, shorter steeps, no dry hops. I don't think you need 5+ ounces per gallon to nail an amazing IPA, but it certainly works.

Wow.  My 12 ounces doesn't sound like too much anymore.  I am surprised that 20% use 13 or more ounces.  I would love to have a side-by-side with these IPAs!

Ingredients / Re: How many ounces of hops in your American IPA?
« on: March 06, 2017, 02:39:47 PM »
Thanks everyone for your responses.  Keep 'em coming.  I typically do 1.25 - 1.5 for bittering, my target being about 70 IBU.  Then 5 oz. at 170* and 5 oz. dry hopping post fermentation.  This is for a 6.8% ABV beer - Golden promise at 79%, Munich 10 at 14% and sugar at 7%.   So a simple grain bill.

I have wondered if I am using too much.  I have either bagged or used a cylindrical SS mesh hop filter for the hop stand.  I'm not really happy with either as it seems there isn't sufficient wort access to the interior of the hop cake to extract the oils.

I've tried using the Blichmann Hop Blocker - it didn't block any hops that I could discern (yes I used it correctly).  It completely plugged my plate chiller.  I currently use a large stainless mesh circle encasing my dip tube in the boil kettle but it doesn't keep all the hop particles out of my plate chiller either.  I'm about to toss the plate chiller and go back to an immersion chiller just so I can let the hops swim free.  I was enamoured with the plate chiller so that the wort would not be exposed to air below 170*, but hey, Denny uses an immersion chiller and I have not heard him complain about infections so...  And at this point the possibility of an infection from a dirty plate chiller is probably more than from airborne sources.

Regardless I appreciate the input.

Ingredients / How many ounces of hops in your American IPA?
« on: March 06, 2017, 10:12:11 AM »
Typically, how many total ounces of hops do you use on average when brewing a 5 gallon batch of American IPA?  So for bittering, late additions, and dry-hopping.

The Pub / Re: How did you pick your forum name?
« on: March 05, 2017, 11:41:12 PM »
I just don't have the patience to come up with a clever or witty moniker, so my goto is yso191: Yakima Sheriff's Office deputy 191.  I'm a reserve deputy (training sergeant).  I've been a reserve for 3 departments over  23 years.

I'm signed up!

Ingredients / Re: Hop hash
« on: February 25, 2017, 08:56:19 AM »
I guess I'm not too surprised that people aren't getting great aroma frohop hash.  Based on what I know of where it comes from, it seems like it would be highly oxidized which would affect aroma.

Gonna have to go with Denny on this one.  I finally saw a picture of 'Hop hash'.  Honestly I think it is the sweepings of cleaning the hammermill (step 2 in the pelletizing process).

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