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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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1
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Brett in the keg
« on: July 26, 2017, 07:33:54 AM »
You could put new beer in the keg. How many brett cells remain would determine how quickly you would see a change in the beer.

You could degas some of the beer and keep it in a mason jar. My first concern is that there is probably a lot more fermentation brett can do on that beer and the mason jar may end up explosively overcarbonated. Mason jars are not designed to withstand internal pressure (although they will, a little). Second, I'd look at how much yeast you have in suspension. A mason jar's worth of beer is probably short on brett cells. You might wait a long time before you see any activity in a keg, especially if the keg remains cold.

IMO the better process would be to buy another package of brett for future batches. You can propagate brett in a starter and pitch from the starter into your kegs. Keep some of the starter behind in a mason jar for future batches. Just make larger starters than you need and keep the excess. This ensures you can control the volume you pitch and that what you pitch is free of sacc.

2
Is it served as a salad?

3
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Berry ale
« on: July 21, 2017, 07:15:52 AM »
Speaking of fruit, I have somewhere around 15 pounds of guava paste. I already made a delicious guava Melomel, and was thinking of trying some in a beer sometime.

Holy cow, that sounds awesome! Thoughts for what you'd use it in? I could see guava being a pretty flexible flavor across a few different styles...

I have enough guava paste, I'll probably end up trying a few styles. I might start with a guava ale, then try a guava pilsner. The fruity flavor might go well with an IPA if I can balance the hops with it.

In the 50 clone recipes article recently published on the AHA website, the Hawaii clone is Maui's POG IPA. It's a delicious beer with guava. Might want to take a look at it for inspiration even if you end up only using guava.

4
What do you like to drink? That's a versatile combination of hops. You could use it almost anywhere in American styles.

5
Equipment and Software / Re: need 12oz bottles
« on: July 19, 2017, 11:11:06 AM »
Check local craigslist and local homebrewing clubs for free bottles.

If that doesn't work you could probably grab some from a local bar after a Friday or Saturday night.

6
Going Pro / Re: Help with NYS Farm Brewery Act Startup
« on: July 19, 2017, 07:52:06 AM »
One thing to keep in mind is that license requires you to use a percentage of local ingredients with a ladder up to 90% in a few years. Take a look at what local malt and hops cost; they may be far more expensive than what you can buy elsewhere.

7
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Berry ale
« on: July 19, 2017, 07:36:52 AM »
No recipe here but the pro fruit beers do not use fruit at all but flavor extract.  I'd brew and american wheat ale and dose at kegging.  https://www.naturesflavors.com/natural-flavor-extract/62380-berry-flavor-extract.html

Alternately, go with well reviewed kits: http://www.northernbrewer.com/raspberry-wheat-extract-kit

I disagree that all commercial beers are not using real fruit/puree over flavor extracts. Some commercial beers use these extracts but that is definitely not universal--probably a small percentage of fruited beers these days.

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Berry ale
« on: July 19, 2017, 07:34:24 AM »
Blackberries and raspberries are probably the easiest fruit to work into beer (minus racking off of them). Easy to get good flavor, can be found reasonably cheap and work into a wide range of styles. Basic American styles pretty much all work, along with most Belgian styles, pale English styles and even most lagers.

I'd suggest finding an American wheat recipe you like to use as a base. Easy beer to brew and the wheat will give you a little body against the fruit. No need to overthink the base recipe.

I'm a fan of buying fresh fruit and freezing in freezer bags to break down the fruit but there are good canned purees as well. Add the fruit and let it sit with the fermented beer for 3-8 weeks. Typical fruit volumes run 1-2 pounds per gallon but some of the heavily fruited beers (particularly sours and saisons) are running 3-4 pounds per gallon these days.

Taste once a week and when you're happy with it, rack off the fruit and package. Keep in mind the fruit breaks apart and can be a PITA to rack. Probably want to put a nylon bag over the end of the racking cane to keep the fruit pieces in the fermentation vessel and out of your bottles or keg.

9
The Pub / Re: Tipping ettiquite
« on: July 18, 2017, 08:08:50 AM »
In Miami I found several restaurants included a tip line that let you adjust your bill up or down based on service. I'm not sure how that works for the servers though. I had excellent service everywhere with the flexible tip line so I guess it does what it intends.

I like the idea of a negative tip for especially bad service. If the restaurant failed to deliver good service then why shouldn't it pay out of pocket for bad service? It expects me to pay out of pocket for good service.

10
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Brett and sour beer bottling
« on: July 18, 2017, 07:56:03 AM »
In both cases you don't want to bottle until the gravity is stable (or account for continued fermentation) and the flavor is where you want it. Gravity moves slowly on these beers so you should take tests 3-4 weeks apart to see if there is continued movement.

If there is any chance you are not at FG for the organisms in the beer then you should bottle in thicker bottles. You can prime as usual with those beers. You can add fresh beer or wine yeast at bottling. I usually do if the beer has sat more than six months as an insurance for timely carbonation. If the beer has sat for a long period it may be necessary to increase priming sugar to account for the CO2 that has left suspension. Priming calculators assume an amount of residual CO2 in suspension greater than what is normally in aged beer.

11
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP 644 Sach Trois Q and A
« on: July 18, 2017, 07:49:07 AM »
I would make a starter and pitch like you would any typical sacc strain. You could pitch a little higher if you want.

For sanitation I would be more cautious. Thoroughly clean and then sanitize with either iodophor or bleach. (Starsan is less effective against yeast.) If going the bleach route use 1 tbsp/gallon cold water. Soak 20 minutes, rinse, fill with hot water and half a crushed campden tablet for 20 minutes. Rinse with hot water and air dry. This is the process I use for all my equipment that touches brett or LAB, including plastic, with no problems.

12
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation Chamber Temp
« on: July 17, 2017, 07:53:45 AM »
Can't you fill the vessel with ground temperature water when you put the carboy in and then start the pump to circulate in cold water and slow the temperature decrease?

13
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: mold?
« on: July 14, 2017, 07:15:06 AM »
Let us see a picture. It's doubtful you have mold; likely floating yeast rafts.

14
The Pub / Re: Tipping ettiquite
« on: July 14, 2017, 07:07:49 AM »
When I've been to these places they offer food and cocktails, so it makes a lot of sense why there is a standard tip line. If you're just drinking beer and doing all the work getting beer, the server is doing so much less. There is some service still being performed (even if it is just checking to see if you need anything or refilling water). I tip but far, far less unless I ordered food or drinks prepared at the bar.

It's pretty weird to go somewhere that sells itself as a self-serve beer bar but then expects you to tip for service. These would be good candidates for a meaningful hourly wage.

15
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing for competition
« on: July 12, 2017, 10:11:40 AM »
You have to know that there are style guidelines and then there is the way judges tend to judge a style. For most styles the beers that win are going to be at the top of the range for several, if not all, metrics for the style; if not a little above them. Big flavors win.

An IPA on the low end of IBUs, ABV and hopping rate is almost certainly not winning as an IPA. That same beer entered as an APA might be completely out of the APA style guidelines but stands a pretty good chance at winning the APA category.

Look through the NHC winners. You'll find most beers fit this pattern. There's almost always a beer or two that wins gold completely out of the style metrics. You can see it on the pro level at GABF and other competitions. Lots of IPAs, XPAs, etc. in the pale ale category, pale ales in amber, etc. Calculated numbers do not directly correlate to sensory perception but this doesn't happen by accident. Brewers compete to win.

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