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Messages - IHBHS

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1
All Grain Brewing / Re: Watering down beer
« on: April 09, 2011, 03:13:42 PM »
I would add water to your primary to get the gravity down so you wont produce as much alcohol.  BeerSmith's dilution tool is a great help for doing this.

2
Kegging and Bottling / Re: relief valve problem!
« on: November 24, 2010, 09:14:57 PM »
i assume this pre carbonation, i would think you'll be fine

3
All Grain Brewing / Re: How much mash water do I use???
« on: October 30, 2010, 09:09:58 PM »

4
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Capping for the long haul
« on: October 30, 2010, 09:07:38 PM »
I would just make sure they are Oxygen barrier caps.

5
Equipment and Software / Re: Heating a Fermentation Fridge
« on: October 27, 2010, 03:46:03 PM »
A brew belt tacked up inside the fridge will produce enough heat to keep the fridge warm enough.  It doesnt have to be wrapped around the carboy, and I would actually put it at the very bottom of the fridge in that dead space where the drawers usually go.  That will heat it from the bottom up and help better evenly heat the fridge.

6
WA / Learn to Homebrew Day with Ice Harbor Brewing Co. and the MCZA
« on: October 15, 2010, 07:42:19 PM »
Join us at Ice Harbor Brewing Co. starting at 1pm.  We'll be doing an extract batch for those who've never brewed before, and an all grain batch  for those that want to learn how to step up their brewing.  Everyone's invited to come down.  We'll have representatives from the Mid Columbia Zymurgy Association on hand to answer any questions about membership and to take applications. 


Ryan Gribble
Ice Harbor Brewing Co
206 N. Benton St
Kennewick, WA 99336

(509) 582-5340
homebrew@iceharbor.com

7
Equipment and Software / Re: Cleaning used keg kettles
« on: October 13, 2010, 06:05:22 PM »
Should work.  It's pretty much the same thing.  I'd run the Lime-Away first then run the PBW, that way you get the beer stone off first then clean the keggle.

8
Equipment and Software / Re: Cleaning used keg kettles
« on: October 12, 2010, 12:08:36 AM »
Acid #5 works great for removing beer stone.

9
Equipment and Software / Re: cleaning shirron plate chiller
« on: October 09, 2010, 01:29:29 AM »
Do Not leave PBW sitting in your Heat Exchanger.  To properly clean a Heat Exchanger (whether it's a Shirron or a Blichmann) back flush with hot water to remove any chunks of plant matter.  Continue to back flush with PBW for a few minutes and then flush with cold water for 3 - 4 minutes more.  The next time you go to use your exchanger, run your sanitizer through and you're good to go.

10
Equipment and Software / Re: Cutting a hole in my kettle
« on: October 09, 2010, 01:22:50 AM »
Do Not Use a Step Bit!!!!!!!  It is a waste of money as it will burn very easily going through stainless.  Spend the couple extra bucks the first time on a stainless rated hole saw.  You can usually get 4 to 5 holes out of each saw bit, which is better than a half a hole with a step bit.  A 7/8" hole is necessary for a 1/2" NPT Nipple to fit through properly.  Weldless fittings from MoreBeer work if you can get the thru wall fitting to seal properly.  I usually grab a 7/8" neoprene washer to do the job right.  It is worth it however to get the welded kits from them and pay your local welder a case of beer and have him weld it in.  Thanks Steve.

11
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Best place to buy kegs these days
« on: October 04, 2010, 12:22:54 AM »
I have them for 40.00 a piece right now, but with the supply of used Cornies dwindling as more and more home brewers moving to kegging, prices are gonna go up again shortly.  I might have to start converting pin locks over just to keep them affordable.

12
Equipment and Software / Re: Quick disconnects
« on: September 29, 2010, 01:06:28 PM »
http://store.proflowdynamics.com/modules/store/316-Stainless-Steel_C68.cfm    These are awesome and are dirt cheap, and so is shipping.

13
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP 575 and diacytel
« on: September 23, 2010, 04:51:35 PM »
Based on White Labs info, there should be a low-low medium diacetyl production, but with diacetyl it should subside quite a bit.  Leave it in the primary for a few more days than you normally would and see if it clears up.  Moving it to the secondary will take longer for the yeast to clean up the diacetyl.

14
Equipment and Software / Re: HERMS Coil
« on: September 23, 2010, 04:39:02 PM »
When I made my first CFC I used 25' of 3/8 and it was more than adequate.  For HERMing you should have no problem at all with 20' of 3/8.  Remember that transferring heat through the copper is easier than trying to cool it.

15
Kegging and Bottling / Re: New keg system
« on: September 22, 2010, 10:16:35 PM »
After I sanitize my keg I kick the lid back on and set the gasket.  Then when you're ready to fill the keg pull the pressure relief valve and lock it open.  Put a liquid coupler on the end of your racking cane and attach it to the keg.  Using your spare CO2 line pressure your carboy to start the siphon.  Now because your keg has already been purged with CO2 and you use CO2 to start the siphon you greatly reduce the risk of oxidizing your beer as you transfer.  When you're done transferring, put that liquid coupler on your CO2 line and force carbonate down the liquid side.

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