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Messages - drummerboyseth

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Blending Beer Batches
« on: October 06, 2012, 09:32:28 AM »
I would pull a small sample (like a pint) and add a metric ass ton of yeast to it and see how it attenuates.  That will let you know if it is a problem with the mash or the yeast.  You need to figure that out before you can begin to address the problem.

How many packets of yeast are there in a Metric Ass-ton?  I need to incorportate that measurement into my system.  My next R.I.S might just nees a Metric Ass-ton of yeast to ferment properly!

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: White House Brew Recipe
« on: September 28, 2012, 06:21:02 PM »
make sure the stuff in the kit didn't come from outside the US. There have been a few cases recently of lead in honey from china and various honey laudering operations moving honey from china around the world so it could be imported into countries that won't accept chinese honey for that very reason.

"Honey laundering"??  That sounds almost comical.  I had to read that twice to make sure I saw it correctly.

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottle Conditioning
« on: September 26, 2012, 10:56:11 AM »
i go two weeks in at room temp.  one bottle is usually a 20 oz plastic pepsi bottle.  (they are in the dark),  i can then tell if there is yeast formation in the bottom (usually check at one week as well) and also if the bottle is hard to indicate pressure build up.

I also use the plastic soda bottle method.  It is an excellent gauge of whether the beer is developing carbonation.  Most of my brews will pressurize the plastic bottle 4 days to 2 weeks after bottling.  I have found the beer is usually properly carbonated about one week after the plastic bottle becomes rock-hard from carbonation pressure.  I think this has to do with the fact that the beer will make carbon dioxide fairly quickly, but that the CO2 needs time to get into suspension. (Think about force carbing a keg...  It takes a few days after the pressure is applied to the keg for that gas to become carbonation)

The plastic bottle seems to hold carbonation VERY well.  I have found myself thinking that I may bottle 6 or 12 bottles from each batch in plastic soda bottles to facilitate ease of transport and use at non-glass-friendly venues such as sporting events and the beach.

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[/quote]

Yes, you would need to send 2 bottles for each category and also you will have to pay a separate entry fee for each entry.  I have entered the same beer, a cream ale, that won as both a cream ale and a kolsch.  The beer will be judged against the category you say it is.
[/quote]

I will consider that option.  I don't know why I had not really thought of entering multiple categories with each beer.

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Begian Dark Strong kit- Bad instructions!
« on: September 25, 2012, 07:28:20 PM »
I ALWAYS use a blow-off tube during the first 3 to 4 days of fermentation.  I only switch to an airlock when the aggressive bubbling dies down.

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You can (and I would) enter it in multiple categories.  Any of the one's already mentioned.

Does this mean that I would need to enter 2 bottles for each category?

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrew Store in Alabama Raided
« on: September 22, 2012, 03:27:33 AM »
Amazing!!  Are they going to raid the kitchen supply stores too because they sell pots big enough to brew beer?

I do enjoy the soundbites from the legislature but would gladly give them up if they would just legalize homebrewing in Alabama and free our "criminal" brothers and sisters.

Then you might as well raid Wal-Mart too.  I bought a large colander/mesh strainer there that I use to filter wort as I pour it into primary.  We can't be selling that kind of stuff, after all. 

Does anyone else think it is at least slightly strange that it is apparently perfectly OK to purchase beer and wine "pre-homebrewed" at a large brewery/factory but it is not OK to brew at home.   That is like saying it is OK to buy a hamburger at McDonalds, but if you fire up your grill at home, we are going to come confiscate your ground sirloin.   It makes absolutely no sense at all.

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing This Weekend - 9/14 Edition
« on: September 20, 2012, 07:16:58 PM »
Bottled my Belgian Tripel last weekend.  I have a friend who wants help with a Pumpkin Ale.  Might just have to do that this weekend!  Just have to decide if we want to actually use pumpkin in the recipe, or just the "pumpkin pie type" spices to give it that characteristic flavor.   Anyone have a preferred method?

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Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: dirty dirty bastard
« on: September 20, 2012, 07:01:53 PM »
I found this beer to be just horrid, even though I generally like Founder's.  Probably just my taste buds though.

I know everyone's tastes differ, but I really love Dirty Bastard.  Whether or not it is BJCP correct does not matter to me so much.  I think it is an excellent brew.  The only thing that prevents it from being a "session" beer in my book is the high ABV.

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Thanks for the info.  I was leaning towards the "wood aged" category, but the Bourbon flavor is fairly prominent. I think I will go with "specialty" instead.  It sounds like that would be a better fit.

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I brewed a RIS back in February that was aged in secondary with Oak cubes, vanilla beans and Maker's Mark Bourbon.  I want to enter it in a homebrew competition next month.  I was wondering if it would be more correct to enter it as a 13F (Russian Imperial Stout), or a 22C (Wood aged beer), or maybe even category 23 (specialty beer)?

I do not want to lose points based on entering the beer in the incorrect category.  The base beer fits the RIS category pretty well, except the IBU's are just a little on the lower end of the scale.  It is 9.5% ABV, black as midnight, and about 57 IBU.  Any thoughts about where this beer would best fit are greatly appreciated.

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Corn Sugar vs Table Sugar
« on: September 19, 2012, 06:17:59 PM »
I absolutely meant 3/4lb, as in 340 grams. I was targeting 5.3 volumes of CO2 in 20L of beer.  I used Champagne bottles, no explosions, but I did have a couple crowns come off unexpectedly.

Wow!  That is some seriously bubbly brew!  How do you prevent massive foam-overs when pouring that?

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Corn Sugar vs Table Sugar
« on: September 19, 2012, 01:00:41 PM »
Corn sugar is very slightly less fermentable than table sugar (like maybe 5% less). I use cane sugar all the time to bottle beer, no problems. I used about 3/4lb of turbinado for 5 gallons of a champagne-style beer, and it worked fine.

Not to split hairs here, but don't you mean 3/4 CUP of sugar?   3/4 pound in a 5 gallon batch would produce TREMENDOUS carbonation levels, and I suspect the bottles would be glass-grenades. 

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I just call myself a Dumb Homebrewer!! The key is to set the bar low...thus people's expectations are also low.  Once they taste my beer their expectations are exceeded and it makes me and the beer look great! Calling yourself a Homebrew Master is just setting yourself up for failure when someone doesn't like your beers.

I completely agree.  Using titles like "brewmaster" or "homebrew master" seems to imply a level of arrogance and conceit.  I would prefer to let my beer speak for me, and reserve the use of titles for people who have completed the formal training.  One other poster mentioned the "doctor" analogy.  How many of you would trust your life to a "doctor" that had been practicing medical treatment for an extended period of time, but had not completed medical school?  Personally, I want to see that diploma on the wall!

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