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Messages - nicosan1

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1
Beer Recipes / Re: Foreign Extra Stout
« on: February 28, 2015, 08:57:11 AM »
Yeah, I have it at 35 SRM with the wheat. Thats where I will go. Thanks for the note on the roasted barley!

2
Beer Recipes / Re: Foreign Extra Stout
« on: February 28, 2015, 07:33:58 AM »
I think it looks great. Foreign Export is crazy overlooked and underappreciated. That's a big one, but it'll be great - I like around 1.068ish. All I would do is drop the midnight wheat and up the roasted barley to .75 lbs to balance the crystal. Enjoy !

I bumped the Roasted Barley but in removing the Midnight Wheat Im not getting the SRM I want. The reason I had it was for color but without too much harsh bitterness and its what my homebrew shop has on hand instead of Carafa II. I could just go with more Roasted Barley or Black Malt just wasnt sure.

3
Beer Recipes / Foreign Extra Stout
« on: February 27, 2015, 05:54:22 PM »
Been working on a Foreign Extra Stout Recipe. Want something thats got roasty, coffee notes and a bit of sweetness and fruit from the malt bill.  As for the yeast profile I thought to go with a good attenuater hence London Ale and for hopes some earthiness, spice and a bit of fruit with the Goldings.

Thoughts? Ideas? I've done sweet stouts and RIS but not FES so any ideas are welcome.

Malt
11 lbs Maris
12.0 oz Flaked Barley
8.0 oz Caramel 40
8.0 oz Caramel 80
8.0 oz Roasted Barley
5.3 oz Midnight Wheat
5.3 oz Chocolate Malt
3 ozs East Kent Goldings (60 minutes)
Wyeast 1028 London Ale

Water Treatment
New York City Water
8grams chalk
2 grams baking soda
2 grams calcium chloride

Est OG - 1.074
Est Final Gravity 1.016
Mash Temp 152 for 90 minutes
Single Infusion Mash, Batch Sparge

Estimated SRM: 32,4
Bitterness 43.3 IBUS
Estimated ABV 7.6%

4
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Regulator to Start
« on: February 13, 2015, 11:42:47 AM »
Another thing to consider is the gas tank.  There is no need, in my opinion, to get a shiny new aluminum tank because it's going to get swapped out at some point.

I thought the same thing as I was looking at the MoreBeer Keg systems. Instead ill invest in the regulator, kegs, tubing, save the CO2 for when Im ready to actually build the Kegerator and I'll go with a used one.

5
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Regulator to Start
« on: February 13, 2015, 11:09:46 AM »
In looking at the used kegs where I lived in NYC, most were not much cheaper, maybe $30 than the new ones I could get on MoreBeer, so thought about going new on those. But slowly I want to get pieces together. Plus I may return to CA this year, so if I do this, I may just buy pieces slowly, store with my parents and build a kegerator there I will have more space. Thats why I thought, start with the regulator right now. By a couple of new kegs in a few months, and then tubing, C02 at the end. 

6
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Regulator to Start
« on: February 11, 2015, 02:55:37 PM »
Cool, found a good deal on Amazon for a TapRite Dual. I guess after that, I should look at buying a keg and line assembly. May go with a new Ball Lock on this one or a used, not sure yet.

Thanks for advice! This will come together in stages, then I can get my stuff up and running.

7
Kegging and Bottling / Regulator to Start
« on: February 11, 2015, 10:58:09 AM »
Question, I still bottle condition but may switch and build a kegerator sometime this year. I was thinking of buying a regulator to start buying pieces, since I have some gift certs to use.  What is a good regulator to buy to start? I generally brew some american styles and some belgian styles. Should I get a dual regulator given that I carb some stuff at higher level than others? thanks for the advice.

8
Beer Recipes / Re: Figs in a Belgian Dark Strong
« on: November 22, 2014, 11:43:29 AM »
Cool so it should be fine to put on figs in secondary for a month or two? Ill follow your lead Denny et. al. My mom was about to send me two more jars of the figs in the post so this will be plenty time for secondary.

9
Beer Recipes / Figs in a Belgian Dark Strong
« on: November 22, 2014, 09:19:17 AM »
Going to brew a Belgian Dark Strong tomorrow and I have some fig jam I made with my mother from my parents fig trees, was wondering when would be a good time to add it, for a bit of flavor, in the boil or after fermentation? 

Also should I macerate the figs in a blender before use? They are cut down to small pieces in the preserves.

Thanks for the advice.

10
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 1272 American II
« on: June 23, 2014, 04:39:00 AM »


Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) 11.5lb
Caramel Malt - 20L (Briess) (20.0 SRM) 12oz
Munich 10L (Briess) (10.0 SRM) 12oz

Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.50 %] - Boil 30.0 min Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 mins)
Yeast Nutrient (Boil 15.0 mins)
Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Boil 15.0 mins)
Amarillo [9.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min
Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min
Galaxy [14.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min
Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Boil 5.0 min
Amarillo [9.20 %] - Aroma Steep 30.0 min
Centennial [10.00 %] - Aroma Steep 30.0 min

%/IBU
-
88.5 % 5.8 %
5.8 % 71.0 IBUs -
-
-
5.5 IBUs 5.9 IBUs 8.3 IBUs 7.3 IBUs 0.0 IBUs 0.0 IBUs
Inventory
0.00 gal 0.0 oz
0.0 oz
0.0 oz 0.00 oz 0.00 Items 0.00 tsp 0.00 g 8.00 oz 0.00 oz 0.00 oz 0.00 oz 8.00 oz 0.00 oz

11
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 1272 American II
« on: June 23, 2014, 04:14:13 AM »
Would perhaps Wyeast 1335 or 1450 be better alternatives?  I've used Denny's for a Black IPA before, and it came out well, just want to get something attentuates well but is a bit easier to cold crash and get some brightness.

12
Yeast and Fermentation / Wyeast 1272 American II
« on: June 22, 2014, 11:17:56 AM »
Am planning on brewing a West-Coast style IPA later on this summer.  I generally rely on either Wyeast or Safale yeasts and in doing IPAs Ive done US-05 or Denny's Favorite and 1056 in the past. Was wondering what people's experience has been with 1272 as an IPA yeast.  Like the flocculation, would like a bit of a brighter beer that is pretty attentuative.  Any thoughts?

13
Beer Recipes / Re: IPA Recipe
« on: June 19, 2014, 04:32:02 PM »
One other question I had was on Water for this IPA. I live in Brooklyn so our water is pretty soft. I just picked up John Palmer's book on Water to get a better understanding of what water additions are appropriate for my beer, still have much to read.  Suggestions on what I should add and when I should add it?  Had gypsum in the kettle. 

This is the Water profile I get from the city, averages obviously.

pH - 7.3
Calcium - 5.8
Chloride - 9
Phosphate - 2.3
Sulfate - 4.4
Magnesium - 1.3

What are your suggestions? Add 5grams gysum? Calcium?  When: Mash or Kettle? I want my hops to be profiled and add a bit of dryness without say mashing at 148 and getting a thin beer. thinking about 150-151.

Welcome your suggestions.

I highly recommend downloading Bru'nWater. It has a 'Pale Ale Profile' that will lay out the amounts of gypsum to add based on your batch size and grist makeup, to achieve a good pH (first and foremost) and secondly to get the level of dryness that you and I like in IPA. Using gypsum will also raise your calcium level btw, which you need since yours is low.

I downloaded and will play around with this excel file.  Thanks!

14
Beer Recipes / Re: IPA Recipe
« on: June 19, 2014, 04:28:11 PM »
In my opinion there isn't really a noticable difference between mashing at 148 and 151.

You want to bump your sulfate up above 300ppm. do this with a combo of gypsum and epsom salts to prevent overloading with calcium.

If you need more calcium in the mash to control pH then add some gypsum there, otherwise go ahead and add it to the kettle.

With this, I entered the info into Brewer Friend Calculator and got my levels as the following if I add 5 grams of Gypsum and about 3 grams of Epsom Salts to the kettle.

Ca+2 - 50
   
Mg+2 - 13
   
SO4-2 - 153
   
Na+ - 8
   
Cl-9
   
HCO3-0
   


Does that look about where I want to be? seems to be fairly close to the range of most, maybe slightly low on calcium for light ale hoppy

15
Beer Recipes / Re: IPA Recipe
« on: June 19, 2014, 03:26:11 PM »
One other question I had was on Water for this IPA. I live in Brooklyn so our water is pretty soft. I just picked up John Palmer's book on Water to get a better understanding of what water additions are appropriate for my beer, still have much to read.  Suggestions on what I should add and when I should add it?  Had gypsum in the kettle. 

This is the Water profile I get from the city, averages obviously.

pH - 7.3
Calcium - 5.8
Chloride - 9
Phosphate - 2.3
Sulfate - 4.4
Magnesium - 1.3

What are your suggestions? Add 5grams gysum? Calcium?  When: Mash or Kettle? I want my hops to be profiled and add a bit of dryness without say mashing at 148 and getting a thin beer. thinking about 150-151.

Welcome your suggestions.

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