You could attemperate the yeast by adding cooled wort at intervals of a couple minutes apart. Pitching the yeast when it is within 5°F of the wort temperature would not have a detrimental effect on the yeasts performance.
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I have no desire to go back to glass carboys whatsoever. I'm just too much of a klutz
Perhaps it would be helpful to add that I've been using the same hydrometer for >100 batches since 1999.
Wing cappers don't do a great job short neck bottles (Sierra, Founders, Firestone, Boulevard). I'd avoid those unless you have a bench capper.Yea seem, I use a lot of red hook and sierra Nevada bottles... that could be why...
does anyone have a recommendation for a good bench capper that's modestly priced?
super agata bench capper runs around 40 dollars and has good reviews.
The bottle types were all different bottles, as I just recycle bottles of beer I have purchased from the store. which I have used them all before with standard caps, without issue.Compare the bottles that are flat to bottles that aren't. Is there any difference in the shape below the mouth?
I waited 2 weeks for the bottles to prime and so far most of them have been carbonated. the sugar was well mixed in to the beer, and the bottles that were flat had zero carbonation, so im thinking these beers may get oxidated too if there isn't a good seal.
Im considering throwing out all of my recycled bottles and just buying all the same standard bottles to not have this issue again... maybe look at getting a bench capper too since I hate the wing capper anyway. I would love to keg but I don't have the space right now to do so.
Ill look into the link about repriming the flat ones.
All good points. I just hated to see all of that nice wort going down the drain. It smelled amazing in there. I was wishing I had thought to bring a sanitized fermenter with me. Maybe next time. Mainly I wanted to be sure they wouldn't get in trouble for allowing me to dispose of the wort, rather than dumping it down the drain.You wouldn't even need a fermentor just a bucket. As soon as you get it home heat the wort beyond pasteurization temperature then cool and pitch your yeast.
This is good advice. I will always plan my starters two to three weeks in advance of brewing.Was planning on brewing today but now not sure.
I set up a starter last night using the Fast Pitch canned wort and Omega yeast labs abbey ale yeast.
It's only the second time I have done this as I have always used smack packs in the past.
First time I did this (with London Ale yeast) the starter went nuts and clearly showed bubbling and would froth up when shook. This time there appears to be very little reaction if any at all.
I have read that abbey ale yeast takes longer to get going and I'm now wondering if I'm starting to see some small bubbles in the starter. But don't know if that is just caused by my shaking.
Currently thinking my options are:
- go for it anyway and pitch it - if it doesn't work pick up a smack pack in a few days and add it later.
- assume it's dead and accept the 2 hour round trip to my nearest homebrew store to pick up a smack pack now.
- just wait and brew tomorrow (not ideal but can do)
Advice greatly received!
I typically make my starters days in advance of my brew day and often step it up two or three times to insure a healthy yeast population. If you are brewing a high gravity beer, you want to make sure you have an abundant amount of healthy yeast cells.
When actively fermenting your beer is doing a pretty good job of stirring itself.The question concerned cooling the wort not stirring up the yeast. Active fermentation produces heat.