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Messages - flars

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: No fermentation after 24 hours.
« on: July 24, 2016, 04:44:07 PM »
Thanks for the feedback. I realized afterwards that I should have rehydrated higher and then added some chilled wort little by little to lower the temp closer to my fermenting temp.

In the case of repitching should I just raise the temp of the fermenter and sprinkle in the dry yeast or rehydrate again? I'm just not sure how much of an issue diluting my wort would be...granted with a cup of distilled, sterilized water and yeast.

Thanks again.

Dry yeast can be a little slower to start, but never rehydrate yeast in distilled or RO water.  The yeast needs minerals to protect the cell walls from rupturing during rehydration.  Hold your wort at 66°F to 68°F.  The fermentation will start.

You won't need to worry about the dry hop debris.  I regularly use yeast from a IPA for an amber ale.  Centennial in the IPA and Cascade in the amber ale.  There is some aroma left but most of the goodness of the dry hop will be in the previous beer.

Are you fermenting in a carboy?  Swirl up the beer and trub in the fermentor and lay it on its side.  Use rolled up towels to prevent it from rolling.  In about 15 minutes you will see a clearer line of beer at the top.  Have a couple of sanitized pint jars ready to pour in.  Some of the hop debris will be left in the fermentor with the remaining yeast.  After a day in the refrigerator the beer will separate from the remaining yeast and hop debris.  You will see very little hop debris in the jars if you had filtered out the boil hops during the pour into the fermentor.

The hop debris can help protect the yeast in storage.

The 173 grams of dextrose for priming seems right.  You won't have to worry about bombs with this amount.  Bombs usually come from infection or a fermentation that finishes in the bottle.  Bombs can also come from too much priming sugar, but this amount is definitely not too much.

One week in the secondary will be sufficient for clearing as long as you are sure the fermentation was complete in the primary.  I would check the SG after one week in the secondary to see if it has changed.  Try at least two weeks in the primary for your next beer to make sure the fermentation finishes while on the yeast cake. 

Keep your bottles at about 21°C for two weeks before sampling the first one.  Chill the bottle for a couple of days before opening.  Warm beers can gush if the bottle sediment is disturbed.

Equipment and Software / Re: Food Grade Bucket Fermenter?
« on: June 04, 2016, 05:50:20 AM »
I have several frosting buckets.  The chocolate and strawberry aromas did disappear after some use for rinsing and soaking small parts in Star San solution.  Didn't seem like it took to many uses before the aromas were no longer noticeable.  Air drying with no lid will most likely speed the process.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: starter from 90ml harvested yeast?
« on: April 23, 2016, 07:37:11 AM »
The calculator is for estimating the viability of the yeast in the slurry.  You can use Mrmalty to estimate the percentage of the slurry which is yeast.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: starter from 90ml harvested yeast?
« on: April 23, 2016, 06:10:32 AM »
The viability loss estimations in the Mrmalty calculator are not the best.  Check the viability estimates in this calculator.  Seems to be much more reliable.

Wood/Casks / Re: New at this
« on: April 06, 2016, 12:56:34 PM »
I have not barrel aged nor read very much about it.  Shoot at will for this comment. 

If you would like to have some CO2 produced in the barrel to fill any headspace add 5 ounces of priming sugar before sealing or airlock.  The priming sugar wouldn't change the character of the beer.

Yes. ;D

Buckets are more likely to blow their lid across the room and a blow-off tube won't prevent that 100%. Same for the airlock. If it comes down to a burping lid it's really no big deal. Seriously. It doesn't need to be hermetically sealed.

All personal preference of course.
Only if the fermentation bucket or carboy is to small for the volume of the wort.

The airlock really isn't necessary during your primary fermentation. As long as the bucket is in a secure place- no kids or pets messing with it- laying the lid on the bucket without snapping it down is sufficient.

There'll be more than enough positive co2 pressure to keep any thing out and once the bulk of fermentation is done (3-4 days) the lock can be installed and the lid snapped down.

Congrats on the first batch! Will taste great!
Is this the best advice for a new brewer?  Perhaps recommend a blow off assembly during the initial fermentation, then changing to an airlock.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermtech Auto siphon.
« on: March 27, 2016, 09:22:42 PM »
You'll get the best siphon action when the distance between the "from" container to the "to" container is as great as possible.  There may have been an air leak where the tubing connects to the racking cane if there was a difference in height between the two containers.

I just pour from the boil kettle into the fermentor to splash as much as possible.  This helps aerate the wort so the yeast has as much oxygen as possible for the growth phase of the fermentation.  After the pour I shake and swirl to add more oxygen until there is a large head of foam.

Edit:  It is also possible the siphon was getting plugged by hop debris.

Hopefully not to active.  Are you tracking the temperature of the beer so it doesn't get to warm for the yeast you are using?

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Too late for temp adjustment?
« on: March 19, 2016, 11:57:06 AM »
I did use the calculator and came up with OG of 1.053 and FG of 1.015
I also took a hydrometer reading and it came out to 1.015
It looks like it might be time to bottle soon.
I think I'll wait a few days and do another reading and see if it's the same...
Thanks again!!!

The estimated FG with a calculator is just an estimate based on average attenuation for the yeast.  The FG's I have experienced are most often lower than the estimated.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Too late for temp adjustment?
« on: March 19, 2016, 09:25:40 AM »
Caribou Slobber extract brew has an OG of 1.052.  The OG will be the recipe OG if you use all the fermentables and the volume in the fermentor is correct for the recipe volume.  If you should add or subtract fermentables, or change the volume this calculator will get you a very close OG.

You only need to confirm a stable SG to know if FG has been reached.  Usually two SG readings are sufficient.  Space the readings 3 to 5 days apart.  The longer the time between readings makes small changes in SG more noticeable.  For a low to medium gravity beer I'll take the first SG reading at two weeks.  Usually this is also FG, confirmed by another reading a few days later.  By this time the beer has begun to clear. 

There are some yeasts which are very slow to finish the last few gravity points.  WY 3787 has been one for me.  With this yeast in a big beer I don't take a SG sample until three weeks after fermentation had begun.  The second at least 5 days later.

Be aware that refractometer readings are not accurate in the presence of alcohol.  The readings need to be corrected.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Too late for temp adjustment?
« on: March 18, 2016, 11:33:44 PM »
The flavor profile of the yeast is usually set in the first two to three days of the fermentation.  It would be best to hold the beer at the same temperature until you're ready to bottle.  The constant temperature will ensure the yeast will attenuate fully.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Starsan question... bear with me
« on: March 17, 2016, 03:21:07 PM »
Keep Star San solution in one gallon jugs.  Add a couple cups to the clean fermentor, swirl it around to completely cover the fermentor with the solution/foam.  Invert the fermentor while you do some other stuff then pour the solution back into your jug.  Star San is a wet sanitizer.  You only need to wet the surfaces.

You can eliminate the residual foam with a spray bottle if you don't want it in the fermentor.

A fermentor is a lot safer to handle when it isn't full.

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