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Messages - klickitat jim

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1
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hoppy
« on: May 22, 2018, 11:14:27 PM »
There is no official definition of "hoppy".  It's pretty much a meaningless term.
What? So I guess malty, watery and yeasty are right out too.

If hoppy describes a Knee-Pa, then I suppose watery would work to describe the water in a Dortmunder or ESB. Malty works for Scottish, Dunkel, or Stout. And yeasty works for Belgians and Weissen

2
All Grain Brewing / Re: New 20gal system!!!
« on: May 21, 2018, 02:07:17 AM »
Very cool

3
Equipment and Software / Re: Star San turned my bung brown...
« on: May 20, 2018, 03:43:40 AM »
Wouldn't that burn Jim?
Dunno, never bothered trying.

4
Equipment and Software / Re: Star San turned my bung brown...
« on: May 20, 2018, 03:42:03 AM »

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Equipment and Software / Re: Star San turned my bung brown...
« on: May 19, 2018, 10:32:44 PM »
You can bleach your bung

6
First off: what the hell are you doing at work !?!?

1.040 will be great to propagate the yeast.

“A yeast starter is ready to pitch anytime after it has attained high krausen (full activity), and for about a day or two after it has settled out.” — John Palmer, How to Brew.  That could one day or more. Yeast have a mind of their own.

Recommend: Shake the starter every time you walk by.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Awesome! The money to make the liquid gold needs to come from somewhere right haha? So with all that being said I believe the metric ratio of water/dme is 10 to 1, how would you, using that ratio, find how much water to use to dme yo successfully create enough sugars for yeast to multiply accurately? Is there an equation? For example, I have 6 gallon batch I'm planning this for, would I just use say 2 liters of water to 200 grams of dme or would the amount vary because of batch size and target yeast count? I know I switched units of measurement with gallonage to then liters, but yeah haha.
10ml water to 1g DME is what we call ten per cent, not to be confused with 10%, and unless over boiled will be  (conveniently) 10°P, or 1.040

It's what I use and works. I also do a version of what Denny is selling, only instead of shaking I use oxygen. I make my starters, 1000ml-1200ml for 6 gallon batches, morning of brew day and pitch the whole thing that evening. From experience I can attest that it works for lagers up to 1.060 and ales up to 1.110 if you are oxygenating the main beer wort too.

7
All Grain Brewing / Re: My proudest achievement yet.
« on: May 19, 2018, 01:19:20 PM »
Nice!

8
I put my oxygenation wand in iodophor morning of brew day. Use it to oxygenate starters, rinse, put back in iodophor. End of day I oxygenate beers, rinse, put back in iodophor. Last thing I do after clean up is blow out the oxygenation wand and store it exposed to air dry.

This has not failed me... yet.

9
I must have missed it

10
Well, building up whatever's in a bottle of SNPA, as I posted above.  It is clearly a top fermenting yeast (crappy pic):
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TdiBFYtdSdx7C269ES3VdC3baDFEzaF1/view?usp=drivesdk
But that said, it actually smells less estery at this point than a starter of 2124 would.  So.  Whatever this tells.
Don't feel confident I have quite enough for a lager pitch after my last step-up -- so tomorrow's pre-Prohibition lager just got redesignated a pre-Prohibition "sparkling ale."  Then I'll have plenty, and next time hope to do a "lager" fermentation, and see if it seems plausible this yeast once made "lagers" at Ballantine.  Will follow up at that time.  (See, now I feel like putting "lager" and "ale" in quotes from now on...)
Up until recently, in Texas, "ale" meant over 5% ABV. So ale... lager... IPA... these are all meaningless terms

11
That is a classic pellicle.  Did you use Brett in the recipe?  If not, you have some contamination going on there.  You can still drink it, but you left a lot of headspace it appears and that might have been the culprit.

A humble correction: Bret is a yeast and will not develop a pellicle.
You are probably correct, technically. But the few times I used Brett it developed a dusty bubbly film just like that. Not saying it's Brett, but it doesn't look like normal sac either

12
All Grain Brewing / Re: Canning
« on: May 17, 2018, 10:18:29 PM »
Pretending the details of this thread didn't exist, if I were taking a test and the question was "Fill in the blank: Assuming no contamination, what would be the most likely cause of a beer becoming darker post-packaging?" I would answer oxidation.

If the question was "less fresh" I'd probably answer age first, then oxidation.

OP, is the beer darker?

I agree, Jim, but then why have none of us ever noticed it?
That's not a "test" question... I don't know the answer. Probably we are doing it wrong

13
All Grain Brewing / Re: Canning
« on: May 17, 2018, 09:33:51 PM »
Pretending the details of this thread didn't exist, if I were taking a test and the question was "Fill in the blank: Assuming no contamination, what would be the most likely cause of a beer becoming darker post-packaging?" I would answer oxidation.

If the question was "less fresh" I'd probably answer age first, then oxidation.

OP, is the beer darker?

14
Looks like a pelicle to me

15
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Should I remake my starter?
« on: May 17, 2018, 09:22:51 PM »
FWIW, you could make your wort, chill it to pitching temp and run off a liter or so; "shake it like it owes you money", pitch the yeast into the shaken wort and cover with foil for a few hours, then pitch the whole thing into the wort for the whole batch.  Then watch it take off.  My experience is that this makes the best starter and this approach is endorsed by Klackitat Jim (the yeast whisperer) and Denny (the Experimenter and questioner of all conventional things homebrew), as far as I recall, at least.
Ha! My endorsement, good one.

But, yup. That's what I would do, except I'm too lazy to shake and would use O2.

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