Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Stevie

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 336
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Blow off question
« on: August 27, 2016, 10:05:03 AM »
While I haven't had the overflow, I have always wondered about the blown yeast. I figure the remaining yeast would bud to makeup for the loss.

Events / NCHF
« on: August 27, 2016, 08:55:41 AM »
Who's going? I know there are some Bay Area and Sac folks here.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: How are my odds looking?
« on: August 27, 2016, 08:44:51 AM »
Do yourself a favor and find a place that just swaps out the tanks. Don't get all hung up on how they look. An old steel tank holds co2 just as well as a new aluminum one (granted the aluminum ones are lighter.) If you have a 5 lb tank you will be hard pressed to find a steel 5lb tank anyway. Surely there is a Sexton or other gas supply place near you that will swap tanks. Way better than waiting for them to be filled. And, these places will usually sell you a used tank for cheap.

Yup.  I even got "lucky" once and they swapped out my 15lb steel tank for an aluminum one since they had no steel in stock. Lighter is nicer on the bigger tanks, but as far as looks you only look at it when you're hauling it in to get it refilled.
My airgas guy was cool and swapped me an aluminum for a steel when I asked. I had a good case as steal won't fit in my keezer without sacrificing a keg.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Malt conditioning
« on: August 27, 2016, 08:20:54 AM »
No miracle half gallon this time. I must of don't something funny before. The odd thing is I needed 15 gallons of water and used 3 five gallon water bottles of RO.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Trouble with hoppy beers
« on: August 27, 2016, 06:50:30 AM »
Baking soda

Pimp My System / Re: Upgrade!!!
« on: August 26, 2016, 03:02:20 PM »
Pressure is determined by desired level of carbonation and temperature. I have mine at 15psi/45°F. This would be way too high for 4 feet of line. I think you should replace the line with minimum 8 feet, if it's too much you can trim it down.

The chart below will help you determine the pressure needed. Calculators exist to help with line length as well.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: CaraVienne / CaraRuby help...
« on: August 26, 2016, 10:20:35 AM »
One of the oldest shops in the country operates in a similar manner. They typically carry one, maybe two grains of a similar lovibond rating. I don't shop there often enough to care. I mean I can see a newer shop or a shop that isn't dedicated to brewing doing this, but a very well established shop just seemed weird.

It's on tab 4 to the right of baking soda and below the total volume

Yeast and Fermentation / Under pitching and then Re Pitching
« on: August 25, 2016, 02:28:28 PM »
You can try a 1 liter shaken not stirred stater pitched full volume at high krausen. One of the main proponents of this method states that initial cell count is way less important with this method. I can attest it works well. I still have trouble with adding the full volume, but the results are good enough to ease that concern.

Equipment and Software / Fermenter Recommendations
« on: August 25, 2016, 01:11:25 PM »
That's weird...I don't have any trouble wiht the lids on mine.  Must be a different brand.
Certainly does. The bucket I use for sanitizer takes a good pry to pull off using my knee as a leverage point as well as to hold it down. Others are much easier to pull off little by little or in one go.

I use the "add sparge minerals to mash" option all the time with lighter beers. It helps keep my ph in range with lower acid additions. I'm not against acid additions, just against extra steps and effort.

I'm not seeing this option, where exactly is it?
It might only be in the latest supporters version.  The supporters version does have many extras that the free version does not. I haven't used the free version in quite a while.

Yep. Just take whatever additions it recommends for the sparge and add them directly to the kettle.

You just take the sparge and add to the kettle.

Because the sheet is written to calculate it for us based on the desired profile.

I use the "add sparge minerals to mash" option all the time with lighter beers. It helps keep my ph in range with lower acid additions. I'm not against acid additions, just against extra steps and effort.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 336