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Messages - trapae

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Kegging and Bottling / Stains on the inside of my keg
« on: March 14, 2017, 06:21:12 AM »
I realized a couple weeks ago that one of my kegs has some linear brown stains on the inside. Looks like I probably stored it before it was completely dry. They are directly downward of the in and out holes. I cleaned it three times including a weeklong soak with PBW. However it looks the same.
Does anyone think this is a problem? I don't think it is rust but it has to be CLEAN after a week long soak in for PBW right? I don't want to have to buy new keg just cause I know that it doesn't look pretty on the inside.


 I am planning on motorizing my grain mill.  I currently have a barley crusher and it has worked fine for about 30 brews (using a drill).  I've been reading and a lot of people say that they wear out rather quickly. Since I'm building a platform cart to mount the motor to the crusher, I only want to have to do it once and not switch it out if the barley crusher dies.   From what I've read the monster mill is super heavy duty and will last pretty much forever.
Question is: what are peoples opinions on the barley crusher long term life?  Should I go ahead and throw down the extra money now for the monster mill?


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How long is your brew day?
« on: October 06, 2016, 10:37:50 PM »
6hours all grain with setting up all of my equipment, measuring and milling, batch Sparge, 30 minute whirlpool, cleaning and putting everything away.

General Homebrew Discussion / No bitter addition?
« on: August 01, 2016, 07:51:47 PM »
 I'm sure some of you have done this and I was wondering how the beer turned out? I'm thinking of doing either my IPA, my house Pale ale, or my every day everyone pleaser Blonde ale with no bittering addition and just increasing the late additions to get the same IBUs that the recipe calls for.   Does the beer lose complexity? More flavor? What do y'all think.

All Grain Brewing / Calculated versus lab measured ABV and IBU.
« on: July 20, 2016, 12:00:54 PM »
I finally sent my beer away to the lab to have the real ABV and IBU values measured to compare to my calculated values.   I thought some may find it interesting.

ABV:   Calculated (refractometer/hydrometer)= 7.2%, Lab measured = 7.6%
IBU:   Calculated (BeerSmith) = 65,  Lab measured = 78

 I thought the ABV discrepancy was significant but the lab told me that was actually pretty close and that a lot of commercial Brewers or farther off in this.
 As far as the IBU calculation, I whirlpool at 175 and haven't been adding any IBUs for the whirlpool hop additions, but maybe I should back-calculate and start adding a small percentage for this.  Also thinking about it, I may move my flameout additions to whirlpool since I think they're essentially the same thing when cooling quickly to 175.

Here's the recipe if anyone is interested.

Batch Size: 6.33 gal   
Style: American IPA (14B)
Boil Size: 8.50 gal
Color: 6.2 SRM
Bitterness: 65.0 IBUs   
Boil Time: 60 min
Est OG: 1.065 (15.8° P)
Est FG: 1.014 SG (3.6° )
ABV: 6.7%

Amount   Name   Type   #
1 tbs    Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60 min)
14 lb         Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
9.6 oz   Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)
9.6 oz   Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM)
0.70 oz   Chinook [13.0%] - Boil 60 min
0.80 oz   El Dorado [15.0%] - Boil 15 min
0.45 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 15 min
0.30 oz   Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.5%] - Boil 15 min
1.             Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15 min)
1.00 tsp   Yeast Nutrient (Boil 15 min)
0.50 oz   Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.5%] - Boil 7 min
0.30 oz   El Dorado [15.0%] - Boil 7 min
0.20 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 7 min
0.80 oz   Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.5%] - Boil 0 min
0.50 oz   El Dorado [15.0%] - Boil 0 min
0.30 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 0 min

At flameout, cool quickly to 175 and then whirlpool hop for 30 minutes: 1.75 oz Centennial 2.25 oz El Dorado 0.5 oz Columbus Mash 60 @ 150

starter   California Ale (White Labs #WLP001)

 I'm thinking about finally switching from using from immersion chillers ( first one goes through an ice bath to the second one that is in my kettle ) to a counterflow chiller.   Currently I put my immersion chiller in the last 15 minutes of the boil to sanitize it and run my pump the last 15 minutes as well and circulated boiling wort back through a whirlpool arm I have attached to my chiller.
 So if I do away with my kettle immersion chiller,  I would place a whirlpool port/arm into the bottom of my kettle.   And here's what I'm thinking:  The last 15 minutes of the boil I will run boiling wort from my kettle to my pump and through the CFC and then back through the whirlpool port in the kettle to sanitize everything. I will have a three-way valve  coming out of the CFC so after flameout and after whirlpooling step when I'm ready to fill my fermenter, I just turn of the three-way valve the other way and fill the fermenter.

 Question is:
1.   I'm worried that running boiling wort through my pump, the CFC, and back will dissipate so much heat that I will have a hard time keeping the boil up. I do use natural gas though. Does anyone do this and have any experience?
2.   I often use a large amount of pellet hops especially in whirlpool. I usually just throw the hops right into the kettle and do not use a spider or bag. Has anyone had any major problems with the CFC clogging?
3.   Any other better ideas for my system or anyone have a great way to do all this?


 Thanks for the  info and links. Didn't realize it would be that much decrease. As for "late hop beers will have less bitterness stability",  that sure makes conceptual sense to me because I feel that the hop flavor (which I know isn't bitterness but is a function of hopping), from dry hopping seems to be the first to dissipate in my mind. 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hops between 60 and 20 min?
« on: July 08, 2016, 07:31:46 PM »
I just sent my most recent IPA to the lab for ABV and IBU. I've never done this before and I'm very interested to  find out the true values versus what BeerSmith says.  Especially since I whirlpool at 175 for 30 minutes. I should probably make the same beer without the whirlpool and send that too and compare.

 Just wondering if anyone knows the answer to this. I keg my beers and there is a definite change in hop character that occurs  throughout the beers life, but does the actual IBU change from say first tapping the keg until the last pint?

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Anyone used this keg volume indicator?
« on: July 05, 2016, 02:22:39 PM »
 Update :

Kegged on June 10 and used this ball/keg volume indicator. It was easy to sanitize, easy to locate the ball with the external magnet and switch for the little orange external bead.   It has been working flawlessly with the bead slowly lowering as I have been drinking the beer. I just ordered two more. Pretty cool little invention.

General Homebrew Discussion / Hops between 60 and 20 min?
« on: July 05, 2016, 05:25:52 AM »
Is there any good reason to boil hops between 60 and 20 min?  Seems like it wastes IBUs on one end and flavor on the other? 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mosaic question for my recipe
« on: July 04, 2016, 09:36:17 PM »
Will do, thanks

All Grain Brewing / Mosaic question for my recipe
« on: July 03, 2016, 11:05:27 PM »
This week I am going to brew an easy drinking summer blonde ale that I've brewed before but I want to sub the 2 late cascade additions (20 and 5min) with mosaic (which I've never used before).  Question is, since mosaic alphas are about twice cascades, and I want to keep same IBUs,  Do I:
1.  Cut both mosaic additions to 0.12oz and keep all else the same, or
2.  Keep mosaic additions same as cascades 0.25oz, and decrease the 60min centennial to keep the same IBU?

I hear mosaic is quite strong, but I don't know if 0.12oz x 2 is enough to contribute any significant taste.
Below is the recipe for reference.

Thanks in advance,

Batch Size: 5.85 gal
Boil Size: 8.00 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
Color: 3.6 SRM   
Bitterness: 23.4 IBUs
Est OG: 1.040
Est FG: 1.008
ABV: 4.3%

Amount   Name
7 lbs.         Pale Malt (2 Row)
12.00 oz   Cara-Pils/Dextrine
8.00 oz   Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L
8.00 oz   Vienna Malt
0.30 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 60 min
0.30 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 35 min
0.25 oz   Cascade [5.5%] - Boil 20 min
1.10            Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15 min)
0.25 oz   Cascade [5.5%] - Boil 5 min
2 pkgs   California Ale (White Labs #WLP001)

Yeast and Fermentation / IPA length of fermentation question
« on: May 31, 2016, 03:49:01 PM »
 I brewed an IPA couple weeks ago (OG=1.064, IBU=65, no dry hopping but large 30 minute whirlpool edition),  and have a small dilemma.   I always ferment my IPAs for four weeks. I usually dump trub after about two weeks and cold crash the last three or four days.   Due to summer vacation to Ireland,  I will either have to keg right at three weeks, or at 5 1/2 weeks.  It has already reached final gravity. Any opinions on which to choose?   Not sure it really matters since it will condition in the keg but want to make sure the yeast has time to clear up everything.

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