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Messages - majorvices

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Low pH and lager yeast
« on: January 11, 2017, 03:13:59 PM »
IIRC it was about 3.4.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Low pH and lager yeast
« on: January 11, 2017, 06:03:32 AM »
I've used Kolsch yeast post kettle sour with fantastic results for a Gose. I'm sure a lager yeast would work just fine. 34/70 actually ferments fairly clean in the 58 degree, that's how I'd approach that.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Glass Disaster
« on: January 10, 2017, 06:29:09 AM »
No one except the OP will want to hear my opinions on glass vs. plastic.

Yes, glass is dangerous, and you need to be very careful with it.  However, plastics *can* at times harbor wild yeast and bacteria that can give your beers a "house flavor" that glass will not do.  Plastics are also oxygen permeable and for any long term aging, you can taste the effects of oxidation.  If always doing quick batches, this is less likely, but if keeping in there for a couple of months, you might pick up premature oxidized flavors.

There are certainly advantages and disadvantages of each.  Personally, I am interested in making the best beer possible.  As such, I use only glass.  For me, glass is worth the risks, and I am very careful with it.  I suppose at some point I could even seek out stainless steel carboys, as that would work even better, albeit you cannot see through the sides of stainless obviously, so that's a downside of that.

We all need to make up our own minds and do what we think is best for us and the risks we want to take.

I haven't read all the other posts but just gonna say at this level there isn't going to be any difference in quality of beer between plastic and glass except for the instances where you are aging the beer long term. In that case I do agree glass is slightly superior but only slightly. If you think there is no ingress on the rubber bunch and air lock on glass carboys you haven't really thought this through.

I think hot oxiclean and PBW is probably fine just you probably need to have some recirculation and/or scrubbing. There's no way they are coming clean by soaking alone.  I think it is hard to really get inside and clean a carboy with just a bottle brush. Not impossible though. I have the carboy/corny cleaner that recircs with a pump, I do use caustic for my carboys and corny kegs.

Honestly I feel some homebrewers over stress about sanitation. As the above mention about "scratches in plastic", unless you actually have an infection a scratch in plastic isn't going to really matter, even if a srain of bleagian yeast is hiding there and you are brewing a lager. The lager yeast will far out compete the small amount of belgian yeast present.

I don't think one can stress enough about cleanliness however. We recently started using an ATP Meter at the brewery and after I used it I discovered that my tanks were not coming as clean as I thought they were and I had to up my percentage of caustic. I have a feeling some of you may be surprised at the cleanliness level of your glass carboys/plastic buckets if you are only using a PBW or oxiclean soak.

"Glass fermenters are better than plastic buckets.  There, I said it, again.  Glass is dangerous, yes.  Do be very careful with your big heavy glass carboys.  Fortunately, stainless would also be fine."
DMTaylor why are glass fermentors better?

Glass cannot be scratched and is not oxygen permeable like plastic is.  If well cleaned, there is no place in glass for wild beasts to hide out, and less chance of oxidation.  With plastic, both problems are much more likely.... although many people prefer the convenience and non-breakability of plastic.  Those are good advantages, but personally I'd rather have near-zero chance of contamination or oxidation.

Stainless trumps both, and can be cleaned hot which  adds even more benefits for sanitation. Just sayin'. ;)

All Grain Brewing / Re: Diacetyl rest left too late?
« on: January 08, 2017, 07:09:26 AM »
I disagree with the others posting that the yeast will clean up diacetyl once active fermentation has stopped. They may clean up some, but they won't be able to clean it all if the yeast have thrown a lot of diacetyl.

Try krausening, this usually clears the beer of diacetyl and is very traditional in German breweries using traditional lageirng techniques. Take a small amount of krausen from an actively fermenting beer (preferably a lager or a clean fermenting ale yeast) and pitch it in your beer. Alternatively make a small starter and pitch active in your beer (dry lager yeast would work fine for this).The active yeast should clean up the diacetyl.

Going Pro / Re: Helpful Bachelor's Degree
« on: January 07, 2017, 04:47:45 PM »
Yeah, not sure about accounting either. You will need to hire an accountant. Again, pick your poison. Are you going to be the brewer or the business manager. Almost impossible to wear both hats unless you are a teeny tiny brewery and then there really isn't much point because it just becomes a vanity project at that size.

My weakest area has been in lab work. There is a trend in brewing over the last decade where breweries hire a chemist to be over QC and sometimes the head brewer actually answers to the QC.A combination of skills: Brewing, Microbiology and Chemist tend to lend to the most valuable aspects in understanding QC which is arguably the most important aspect in brewing. That said, all the info you need for this level of microbiology, chemistry and brewing is pretty much available in books so I do agree that I'm not sure I wouldn't just forgo a 4 year education. That sounds like a royal PITA.

There are also short brewing, lab and chemistry coursesyou can take that would bring you up to speed very quickly without taking years of time.

(that's 0.01, hundredths, right?)

Right. I was having a precoffee brain fart.  :P NVMD

Here's another one. Probably not best practice at all but....

I have complete trust in Bru'n Water as I do not own a pH meter.

As long as you are adjusting for the base Malts distilled water pH in your water sheet I'd say this isn't a bad thing.

Bryan has tested our water software in our spreadsheet about 50 times now and it shows results within 1/100th of a pH point every time.

We integrated a "malt override" cell that allows you to match the distilled water pH of the malt found in the analysis sheet.

I don't own a pH meter either but seeing brew session after brew session being verified with that kind of precision gives me comfort knowing that if my Colorphast strips are in the ballpark that I'm dead on.

What kind of pH meter do you have with that level of calibration? Mine only goes within a tenth, and I don't always trust that it is accurate at that level.

The Pub / Re: InBev / Keurig
« on: January 07, 2017, 09:00:23 AM »
But it's a "booze maker"!!
"beer, spirits, cocktails and mixers"

So not only will it brew beer, it will also distill whiskey, and mix your martini!!!

How could you not want one of these.    ;)

I'm sure it doesn't distill, probably just add vodka. That said I would pay a lot for a home still that was as simple to use a Keurig. ;)

The Pub / Re: InBev / Keurig
« on: January 06, 2017, 06:08:57 PM »
This, and buying up Northern Brewer, strikes of so much desperation.

Going Pro / Re: Helpful Bachelor's Degree
« on: January 05, 2017, 07:12:04 PM »

Smart move Major.
Let's step in the back Jack, have a little sip Chip, empty that tank Frank....there must be 50 ways to lose your liver.

Thankfully liver is fine but waistband has gotten way too tight. Like that rendition though.

Sours are only good when they are world class. And that, my good friends, is a fact, not an opinion.

even world class ones are not something I choose to drink more than a few ounces of. Just rather have something else.

That's simply because you have never tasted any truly world class sours ;)

Not true. And, my idea is the most unpopular. MV FTW! ;)

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