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Messages - brewcrew7

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Great podcast and interview guys, I enjoyed it. Jim, if I recall you made two RIS using this method, the second using the different mash temperatures for each mash. Forgive me if you mentioned this somewhere, but were you able to discern any difference between them based on that variable?

Beer Recipes / Re: maibock
« on: April 10, 2018, 01:49:44 PM »
Figured that might be the case. Denny's Waldo Lake uses a bunch of carared and I've made that before. The recommended usage rate is up to 25%, but I didn't typically associate maibocks with a lot of crystal malt. I could be wrong but was intrigued by the ingredient choice!

Beer Recipes / Re: maibock
« on: April 10, 2018, 01:13:46 PM »
I'd leave out the Munich. Best one I've made was 80% pils, 20% caravienne.  Wy2206.

Weyermann doesn't produce that malt anymore, or are you using another malt(ster)? And a hefty 20% works if it was a good beer, interesting. Any other beers you make with that much crystal malt?

Beer Recipes / Re: Transferring from a corny keg fermenter w/o trub
« on: August 29, 2017, 02:27:40 PM »
I've been thinking of fermenting in kegs. I've got two taps, 4 5-gallon ball-lock kegs and 2 3-gallon pinlocks. Are you serving your 3 gallon batches in 5-gallon kegs? I suppose if you are voiding oxygen as best you can, the smaller batch size to keg shouldn't be an issue.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Common Keg Leaks
« on: August 29, 2017, 02:08:29 PM »
I've had a couple tank leaks due to various reasons that frustrated me from time to time. In some respects it has kept me from using my draught system to the extent of justifying its existence. But speaking of diptube o-rings, I've noticed mine get chewed up pretty quickly. They seem to fit fine but maybe the post threads shread them upon tightening. Is this common? I should note this hasn't been a source of leaks for me but it sure has potential. The way they look I should probably replace them every keg-fill or two.

All Grain Brewing / Re: When to add Candi syrup?
« on: May 10, 2017, 07:48:24 PM »
Call me an outlier, but I like late sugar additions in the primary right at or just following high krausen.

This is what I'll do from now on, especially if I bottle condition. On two consecutive english IPAs (same recipe) with jaggery sugar added before fermentation with Wyeast 1882 (Thames Valley), the yeast crapped out early on me only to reactivate with additional table sugar in the bottle. Same thing happened, to a lesser extent, with the belgian "Wyeast 1214" on ales made with homemade syrup. Granted, each recipe was 15-20% sugar.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Factors controlling attentuation
« on: January 20, 2017, 03:58:47 PM »
I cannot reply with any authority of experience, but I think the fact that most of the blog recipes are for beers that were casked and sent off to pubs. In that case, any final gravity record would have indicated the initial cask gravity. The beer was conditioned and vented at the point of sale. Who knows what the real FG was. Ron may have spoken to this fact though it's emphasis is probably lost to us homebrewers?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First lager yeast help
« on: January 20, 2017, 03:23:29 PM »
For starters, you can always make a smaller batch, say 1-3 gallons. Pitch a single packet and ferment in your standard primary fermenter. When that is done, you have enough yeast for another 5+ gallons of lager. Or, you could make your proposed volume of wort and put 3-4 gallons aside (sanitation is key) and pitch your yeast on the remaining 1-2 gallons. Once your yeast are active, add the remaining wort and ferment to completion. I've done this small starter batch of beer for a number of years now with a fair amount of success. I used flasks with stirplates for starters before but find more value in these simpler methods.

All Grain Brewing / Re: First BIAB step by step brew questions
« on: January 04, 2017, 02:54:50 PM »
I have a similar setup (8 gal pot, BIAB) and I'd say you'd be able to create a 4-4.5 gallon final batch size of 1.050-1.060ish beer with a 6 gallon no-sparge process, depending on your conversion efficiency and boil-off. You could push the amount of grain and water a little bit more but this is a good starting point. I've double crushed my malt on the LHBS mill when I've done this to help me get these numbers. Splitting your strike water in half to add a sparge later maybe gets you a few more gravity points but that will require another pot. I have a cooler too that I use depending on my mood but I cannot say that for the same beer it makes much difference, except that it expands my capacity to brew bigger beers or bigger batches.

Choosing the no-sparge method definitely streamlines the process in various ways, removing a lot of fuss if your short for time, brewing with friends and a pint or three...etc ;)

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Big Beers
« on: December 19, 2016, 02:55:39 PM »
I'm sorry to hear your Strong Pale didn't turn out the way you liked. I was thinking of making something similar. Any tasting notes or reasons why you think it didn't succeed?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast List: Poor Choices for LowO2/LODO/LO2
« on: December 14, 2016, 04:38:44 PM »
Thanks for the list guys. It would be interesting to know if any of the "good LODO" yeasts could be added in a "secondary fermentation" to clean up the sulfur while maintaining the character of a favorite "bad LODO" primary yeast strain, used in a blend, etc.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry yeast for Belgian ales. Comments please
« on: December 14, 2016, 04:29:50 PM »
- Fermentis Safbrew BG-256 Ale (formerly Abbeye)

There's a long thread on this one here:

I just finished a keg of Belgian Pale that I brewed with it.  The beer turned out pretty well, and it definitely rounded out after a few extra weeks of cold conditioning, but I personally won't use it again.

You are not using it again because there are better options that offer different qualities or that this yeast lacked some character you were expecting?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: formula for preboil wort PH lowering
« on: December 20, 2015, 12:19:12 PM »
Although a pH meter would be best to empirically determine the amount of acid to add, the size of protein break can be used to determine when your in the ballpark. Flocs will become larger when pH is optimal but may also get smaller when outside your target, high or low. CaCl2 or gypsum can be used as well as acid but keep in mind these may also change the character of your beer in other ways. You can make your additions  towards the end of the boil if you want to preserve the utilization of hop bitterness extraction.

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Step Mashing & Calculating Rest Times
« on: October 08, 2015, 02:29:53 PM »
Check out this blog for some relevant information that you may find useful. Digging around for other posts may uncover more.

If you are just looking for a flavor / aroma profile, I've heard of adding pellets to bottles of Bud Light and recapping. Some breweries do this when they get experimental hops to try.

While this can be done, the time I did this with 6 different pellet varieties (from EKG to Citra) yielded a very similar, out-in-front grassy/vegetal character to the beers. Couple that with the trouble of recapping and the sludge I got from the hops, I'd recommend Eric's method hands down.

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