Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - brewcrew7

Pages: [1] 2 3
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Factors controlling attentuation
« on: January 20, 2017, 08:58:47 AM »
I cannot reply with any authority of experience, but I think the fact that most of the blog recipes are for beers that were casked and sent off to pubs. In that case, any final gravity record would have indicated the initial cask gravity. The beer was conditioned and vented at the point of sale. Who knows what the real FG was. Ron may have spoken to this fact though it's emphasis is probably lost to us homebrewers?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First lager yeast help
« on: January 20, 2017, 08:23:29 AM »
For starters, you can always make a smaller batch, say 1-3 gallons. Pitch a single packet and ferment in your standard primary fermenter. When that is done, you have enough yeast for another 5+ gallons of lager. Or, you could make your proposed volume of wort and put 3-4 gallons aside (sanitation is key) and pitch your yeast on the remaining 1-2 gallons. Once your yeast are active, add the remaining wort and ferment to completion. I've done this small starter batch of beer for a number of years now with a fair amount of success. I used flasks with stirplates for starters before but find more value in these simpler methods.

All Grain Brewing / Re: First BIAB step by step brew questions
« on: January 04, 2017, 07:54:50 AM »
I have a similar setup (8 gal pot, BIAB) and I'd say you'd be able to create a 4-4.5 gallon final batch size of 1.050-1.060ish beer with a 6 gallon no-sparge process, depending on your conversion efficiency and boil-off. You could push the amount of grain and water a little bit more but this is a good starting point. I've double crushed my malt on the LHBS mill when I've done this to help me get these numbers. Splitting your strike water in half to add a sparge later maybe gets you a few more gravity points but that will require another pot. I have a cooler too that I use depending on my mood but I cannot say that for the same beer it makes much difference, except that it expands my capacity to brew bigger beers or bigger batches.

Choosing the no-sparge method definitely streamlines the process in various ways, removing a lot of fuss if your short for time, brewing with friends and a pint or three...etc ;)

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Big Beers
« on: December 19, 2016, 07:55:39 AM »
I'm sorry to hear your Strong Pale didn't turn out the way you liked. I was thinking of making something similar. Any tasting notes or reasons why you think it didn't succeed?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast List: Poor Choices for LowO2/LODO/LO2
« on: December 14, 2016, 09:38:44 AM »
Thanks for the list guys. It would be interesting to know if any of the "good LODO" yeasts could be added in a "secondary fermentation" to clean up the sulfur while maintaining the character of a favorite "bad LODO" primary yeast strain, used in a blend, etc.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry yeast for Belgian ales. Comments please
« on: December 14, 2016, 09:29:50 AM »
- Fermentis Safbrew BG-256 Ale (formerly Abbeye)

There's a long thread on this one here:

I just finished a keg of Belgian Pale that I brewed with it.  The beer turned out pretty well, and it definitely rounded out after a few extra weeks of cold conditioning, but I personally won't use it again.

You are not using it again because there are better options that offer different qualities or that this yeast lacked some character you were expecting?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: formula for preboil wort PH lowering
« on: December 20, 2015, 05:19:12 AM »
Although a pH meter would be best to empirically determine the amount of acid to add, the size of protein break can be used to determine when your in the ballpark. Flocs will become larger when pH is optimal but may also get smaller when outside your target, high or low. CaCl2 or gypsum can be used as well as acid but keep in mind these may also change the character of your beer in other ways. You can make your additions  towards the end of the boil if you want to preserve the utilization of hop bitterness extraction.

Sent from my XT1031 using Tapatalk

All Grain Brewing / Re: Step Mashing & Calculating Rest Times
« on: October 08, 2015, 07:29:53 AM »
Check out this blog for some relevant information that you may find useful. Digging around for other posts may uncover more.

If you are just looking for a flavor / aroma profile, I've heard of adding pellets to bottles of Bud Light and recapping. Some breweries do this when they get experimental hops to try.

While this can be done, the time I did this with 6 different pellet varieties (from EKG to Citra) yielded a very similar, out-in-front grassy/vegetal character to the beers. Couple that with the trouble of recapping and the sludge I got from the hops, I'd recommend Eric's method hands down.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: what can i do in the meantime???
« on: September 02, 2015, 06:25:09 AM »
Join the AHA if you haven't already and read all the Zymurgy magazines available to you. Otherwise, teach a friend how to brew. No better way to spread and deepen your own knowledge at the same time!

Ingredients / Re: Cocoa powder - how much?
« on: April 17, 2015, 06:05:23 AM »
Last time I used cocoa powder it caused all sorts of issues when bottling. Too much sediment, in part, caused gushers that don't do much for presentation's sake. Although I'd lean away from powder next time as I didn't find it contributed anything positive, can this stuff be cleared by cold-crashing or gelatin fining? The sludge was perhaps 25% of my beer.

Beer Recipes / Re: Stone releases official Levitation Ale recipe
« on: April 02, 2015, 08:08:50 AM »
For whirlpool/steep/hopstand/post-flameout additions, I've been using the free BrewCipher spreadsheet for IBU estimations. Having just did a beer similar to Levitation with nothing but flameout hops and a 30 minute no cooling steep, I found the estimate IBU to be pretty close to how I perceive the actual bitterness.

Another similar exercise is to compare Mike Tonsmeire's Modern Times recipe of Fortunate Islands to that on his home system. His homebrew versions have more finishing hops than the commercial version, simply due to his lower hop utilization (bitterness, flavor and aroma).

The one thing I'm discovering about this beer (heavy on crystal malt) is that the character of the beer changes quite rapidly going back and forth between hops and malt, and not always in a good way.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Thoughts on my ESB recipe
« on: January 26, 2015, 01:56:49 PM »
Thanks for the feedback. Your posts about yeast are always appreciated. The reason I ask is that I've never quite got the english character with my yeasts and that probably has much to do with my "higher" yeast counts and "lower" temperatures. They've all seemed rather too clean for what I was hoping.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Thoughts on my ESB recipe
« on: January 26, 2015, 08:14:39 AM »
Wyeast 1968 will work, but Whitbread "B" (Wyeast 1098, WLP007, S-04) is a better strain to use with this recipe.

Why in your opinion would Whit B work better over 1968? Also, what pitch rate, oxygenation and temperatures do you prefer? I agree with your torrified wheat comments as I've always received comments from tasters regarding the smooth creamy nature of beers I've used it in at that rate. I never have picked up on nutty/toasty flavors from it though as some have reported. Thanks!

Ingredients / Re: Single-hopped beers - 2014 edition
« on: January 08, 2015, 06:37:41 AM »
Eric, do you have any plans on keeping up to date with your blog? Always love your take on hops, but I'll have to scour the forum for all your nuggets. Besides just tasting notes, which you do wonderfully, you also add suggestions on how to bring out their best qualities - that's invaluable experience. For example, a recent comment of yours about El Dorado and making sure to ferment beers dry is insightful.

Pages: [1] 2 3