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Messages - Thirsty_Monk

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It looks great. Congratulations. Keep on brewing.

I do not mean to rain on your parade but most of commercial tap handles are not for a sale. If you bought them then person who sold you them stole them.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Northern Brewer Sold
« on: July 13, 2019, 03:16:46 AM »
It will be sold again in3-7 years. This is how VC works.

Hot break is mostly protein.  But the density of wort is a measure of all dissolved material -- of course mostly sugar, but also small contributions from soluble proteins, and even hop acids and oils, and the mineral content of the water.  I presume that the removal from solution of a portion of the proteins would be measurable,  at least with a hydrometer.   I don't know how or if a refractometer calibrated with a sucrose solution would read this.  (Maybe  I should know, because I too use a digital Plato refractometer.)  On the homebrew scale, I have always assumed there is a real effect which accounts to some degree for my observed difference in increase in density as actually measured and as predicted by the evaporation rate.  But I also assume that this is all within the margin of my measurement accuracy and resolution (if my eyeball reading of my dipstick is off by a few fluid ounces, and my refractometer has an accuracy of +/- 0.2 °P, any real effect will probably be obscured by error.)  But perhaps on a larger scale, you are able to more reliably observe such small variations?  This has always been in the back of my mind, and I am curious to know if there is any good scientific study of this.  It might even in some way provide an index  index of effective boiling, insofar as the precipitation of undesirable proteins is a primary goal of the boil.
Very interesting. You are correct we are measuring liquid density and assuming that it is all sugar.

Thank you for the explanation.

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Now do not ask me how that happened but my pre boil gravity is always bigger then my post boil gravity.

Granted it is on 15 BBL brewhouse. I whirlpool the whole time I sparge to avoid stratification.

It is mystery to me.
15BBL fantastic stuff!!
You have came a long way from when I visited your brewery years ago. You were trying to get the canner operational. Bravo Sir!!
One day I hope to make it back and see your “new” location. 

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Yes. It had been nine years already. Time flies when you have fun.

Let me know when you are around and I will show you how it is going.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: aeration ideas
« on: July 02, 2019, 09:59:09 PM »

I used a wine degasser for years and it worked great,  so if you've got one  go for it.  To tell you the truth, I don't do any specific aeration any more.  With dry yeast, you don't need it.  With liquid yeast I pitch a healthy, active starter.  Between that and pumping to the fermenter, it just isn't necessary for me.  Heresy?  Maybe but also pragmatic.

I'm the same.  I don't go out of my way to oxygenate the wort, pumping it in seems to do the trick.
But for us simple folk who don't have no fancy pumps or nuthin...

Let the wort fall into the fermenter.  Before I had a pump I used a pitcher to scoop wort put of the kettle and xfer it to the fermenter.  Use your head, don't fall prey to dogma.  There's more than one way to do things, as you well know.

Another variation I like is one I think Goose uses.  Some people put a length of pipe or tubing with a bunch of tiny holes drilled on the end of their siphon hose or however they transfer, so the wort sprays out into the fermenter.  All of these ideas will work.  (The only problem I have with them is when I do low oxygen brews, which I'm doing more of, at least with my lagers now.  Then I like to gently run the wort onto the yeast in the fermenter and only then oxygenate.   But that's quibbling beyond the scope of this topic.)

I used one of those venture aerator for a few years.  There was nothing difference when I stopped using it.  I think it's one of those things that people think should make a difference but have never really tested.
I’ve never used one myself actually. I remember Leos used a Venturi for in-line aeration when he started his brewery. The idea has always stuck with me since then.

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Thank you for mentioning me.

I still do use Venturi tube. Issue is that you need to have adequate flow to create the vacuum (to suck the air into the liquid stream).

I am not sure if there are so small Venturi tubes that would be adequate for home brewing.

Nowadays I use 1” tube( that would be a NPT Thread size). I can ferment 9 % beer without a problem. My transfer takes about 60 minutes and last time I bought new yeast pitch was 2.5 years ago. This puts me to 63-th repitching (some people call it generation).

As Denny mentioned if you use dry yeast, you do not have to worry about wort airration.

Ingredients / Flaked Oat and bottle conditioning
« on: July 02, 2019, 09:35:06 PM »
My understanding is that you need to have enzyme to convert the oats.

Flake oats are already gelatinized and ready for extract. Your temperature was about right. Your conversion time was fine. All you are missing is some barley for the enzyme.

As Denny said, you have unconverted starch in your beer and you might have a hard time to clarify it.

Your yeast will be just fine after cold crashing.

It looks like I successfully hijacked this thread :)

I do not have a lot of evaporation in my BK. It is quite common to be below 3% in commercial brewhouses. Just the volume to surface area. On top of that my evaporation stack is sideway and I do not get a good draft.

One would assumed that if there is no reduction in volume the gravity would stay the same.

I take preboil gravity  from side port. I take a sample about 16 Oz, dump it and take another sample to measure.

I use fine scale Plato refractometer so that would eliminate the error on sample part as well as instrument part.

Why would hot break make make a difference? Hot break usually coagulate protein.

Looking into the records I am off about 0.3-0.5 Plato. My next step would be to take pre boil sample from top of BK.

Thank you for reading.

Now do not ask me how that happened but my pre boil gravity is always bigger then my post boil gravity.

Granted it is on 15 BBL brewhouse. I whirlpool the whole time I sparge to avoid stratification.

It is mystery to me.

Equipment and Software / Solid bottom brew pots??
« on: June 14, 2019, 11:06:09 PM »
Looking for a source for SS brewing vessels around 20 - 25 gal that do not have tri-clad bottoms. I am working on building a new system that utilizes electric heating elements and I want to weld tri-clamp fittings to the bottom of the pots, so I am pretty sure that the bottoms will need to be solid.
I would advise against having heating elements straight up (if I read your post correctly)

As part of my growing obsession with brewing various Franconian beer styles (Rauchbier, Dunkel, Schwarzbier, Kellerbier, etc.) I have purchased a German gravity keg.

Unlike English casks, which are relatively popular in the US and are sold through US retailers, this was the only model I could find that didn't require importing a keg from Germany, the Schaefer Party Keg, sold by the North American division of a German keg maker:

As you can see, the beauty of this model is the "Bavarian bunghole" for "bayerischer Anstich" or a gravity pour.

It is 20 liters (5.3 gallons) and the standard option for the North American market is the Sanke D fitting on top.  This is where my questions begin. I know you can remove the spear and fill the keg that way (and that is probably how I will clean it), but for closed transfers you need to go in through the spear.  I bought a coupler (this one: and these Sanke to ball lock converters (

The question is this, if I have the ball lock converters in place, do I need the plastic check valve on the gas in and the ball on the line out?

My basic goal is "real lager" (the lager version of real ale, AKA traditional naturally carbonated lager). I plan to do a closed transfer  when the beer is mostly done fermenting out of my Speidel fermenter into the keg through beer out port and then attach a spunding valve to the gas in port so it can naturally carbonate while it finishes fermenting.

I'm pretty sure the check valve will prevent the excess pressure from release out through the spunding valve so I think that has to be removed.  And I think the ball in the beer out line will prevent me from pushing the beer into the keg. If I have the ball lock adapters on, my intuition is that I don't ever need the check valve or ball (it's not like corny kegs need either of those things).  Can anyone think of a reason why I might need them?

When it comes to serving, I'm gonna follow these instructions:

The keg comes with an air inlet valve for venting the keg (which you can also do with the coupler, but that won't look as cool).

If anyone wants to see it in person I will be serving a Kellerbier at NHC in Providence in a month, either at club night or maybe during the social hour that my club has signed up for. Hope it works as I won't have time for a test beer before then.  Wish me luck!

In Sankey D gas check valve is to prevent beer to spill into the gas line and check ball in beer out is to stop beer in line to leaking out and making mess in the cooler.

If you want to fill your keg with that coupler you have to remove the ball from beer out and if you want to put a spunding valve you also have to remove the gas check valve.

If you buy keg filling coupler they will come without check valve or ball.

Going Pro / Re: We are looking for someone to join our team!
« on: May 31, 2019, 12:53:40 AM »
Have you tried posting on Indeed in your search for help? It worked for me this month. FWIW.
Marc, you are still around. Good to see you.

Homebrewer Bios / Re: Rest In Peace, babalu87
« on: May 31, 2019, 12:38:19 AM »
Thank you for letting us know.

The Pub / Re: your favorite commercial Pilsner
« on: April 22, 2019, 03:08:37 AM »
I think best fresh Pilsner you can get is Bohemian Pilsner from Lazy Monk Brewing.

Just saying.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: New Tap Handles
« on: August 02, 2018, 02:58:23 AM »
They look nice Paul.

General Homebrew Discussion / Why I'm not a big fan of IPA any longer
« on: February 11, 2018, 02:44:54 AM »
At one point in time 2-hearted came in to our market so cheap we could have bought kegs of it, transferred it to our kegs and sold it, and it would have been cheaper than making our IPA. Maybe there's a little hyperbole going on in this sentiment .... but not much.
Now that is a good idea how to make more beer

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