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Messages - Joe Sr.

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Didn't PETA propose something creepy like that?  I think it was breast milk ice cream.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Supposed to be a Saison became a Belgian
« on: August 22, 2016, 02:42:11 PM »
Pretty sure saison is French.

Saison comes from Wallonia, which is in southern Belgium.

And the predominant language is...  French!

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Oktoberfest Ale
« on: August 19, 2016, 08:42:05 AM »
Let it go until it is finished. More time won't hurt it.

If it's still dropping its not done.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lallemand London ESB Premium Yeast
« on: August 15, 2016, 05:45:38 PM »
I look forward to trying this yeast.

Me, too.

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Wheat DME VS Light DME
« on: August 11, 2016, 08:18:18 PM »
I agree with Dave.  If anything, I've found wheat DME to darken beer more. But I don't use Munton's much.  I've found Breiss DME to be lighter and more fermentable.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Confused over yeast alcohol tolerance
« on: August 10, 2016, 02:52:53 PM »
Alcohol tolerance, like recommended fermentation temp and attenuation rating, should be taken with a grain of salt.  There is almost no yeast I know of that won't go to at least 10%.  I've gone to 12+% with US05. 

In general, your idea is close to true.  But it depends on the fermentability of the wort and how much yeast you pitch.  For a high gravity beer, made with a highly fermentable wort and pitched with plenty of healthy yeast, it should be a problem.

I think you mean it should NOT be a problem...

I've had 1968 perform very well in high-gravity beers.  I know at least one of them came out around 12.5%, so with enough yeast and good aeration it will get you there.  It may slow down at the end, but it gets there.

IME temperature fluctuations are much more likely to cause a yeast to stall than alcohol, up to a point.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: q
« on: August 10, 2016, 08:20:10 AM »
Then again how many homebrewers let their beer sit around for long enough to become oxidized?

I've got beers that stick around for awhile.  Some on purpose (strong beers that I'm aging) some just because I swap out kegs or don't drink them.

With purged kegs, the beers stay good for longer than you might expect.  Bottled from the keg, they tend to oxidize.

I haven't had a keg that's turned into wet cardboard yet. 

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Are We All Overpitching All Dry Yeasts?!
« on: August 09, 2016, 12:29:59 PM »
And, I have disagreed with Denny for years on this.  As someone who has pitched on top of yeast cakes for years, I can emphatically say that English ale and German weissbier yeast character drops dramatically with later generations.  The Belgian yeast, not so much.

Are you pitching right on top of the full cake?

It was documented in the HBD maybe 15+ years ago that weissbier yeast loses it's character and is not a good candidate for repitching.

What's the thought/science behind this?  If you grow up a starter does that help?  It seems like that just adds to the number of generations and would be detrimental.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 6 Common Homebrew Myths
« on: August 09, 2016, 11:38:21 AM »
A good list, but I would quibble with the liquid vs. dry yeasts.  I would agree that they are equivalent for neutral yeasts (lagers, American ale), but for those styles where you want the yeast to produce esters and phenols, such as Belgians, British, and German weissbiers, I find all the dry yeasts lacking compared to the liquid varieties that are available.

The dry yeasts today are worlds away from what was available back when I started.  Liquid strains were definitely preferable to the packs of "ale yeast" or even the Munton's.  I think the "myth" is simply a persistent bias from the days when it was true.

These days, depending on what you are brewing, dry and liquid are equally good choices.

I'd start with small additions of oak and bourbon.  Same with vanilla.  It's easy to overdo flavor additions, and I would think even easier with one gallon batches.

Too much oak = very tannic beer.  It may be the only time I've actually had astringency.

That being said, I can't distinguish for certain which variables specifically are most leading to awesome lager (is it the oxygen? The fermentation schedule? The Spunding? The natural lagering?). I'm planning to brew up a s*** ton of Helles soon so maybe I'll throw one batch in there with zero-care given to O2 and see how it shakes out.

I don't think anyone's suggesting that there should be zero care given to O2, just questioning the role of confirmation bias in the testimonials.  But I don't want to argue it and we're derailing the thread...

I've tried to avoid the threads, but has anyone doing the LODO process done a side-by-side or triangle yet?  My recollection is not.

Not as far as I know.

That's what I thought.  I've been doing closed transfers to the keg on my last couple of batches (pushing out the star san, etc.).  I can't say that it's made a difference, but it can't hurt and it doesn't cost me anything.

These days, I'm mostly brewing for parties and the kegs go quick so any long-term oxidation doesn't get the chance to appear.

As far as the topic of the thread, I don't dry-hop much, but when I do it's typically in kegs that are sitting in my cool room at ~60 degrees.

There doesn't seem to be a consensus yet.  Denny has been cautious but has also said he thought he detected smoother beer.  A few others have thought there was an improvement but then backed off when doing side-by-side tests.  I absolutely notice softer, smoother beer (ale and lager) and if it's conformation bias, then CB must be a very powerful thing.  If this is all in my head, I need to have my head examined.  :P

I've tried to avoid the threads, but has anyone doing the LODO process done a side-by-side or triangle yet?  My recollection is not. 

Commenting is pointless without knowing the context.

You're no fun.

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