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Messages - chinaski

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1
Beer Recipes / Re: wet hop ale - why not boil wet hops?
« on: August 25, 2016, 06:49:13 PM »
He's specifically asking about wet hops, not just homegrown. I don't have an answer, just pointing to his query.

My mistake. I guess I was assuming homegrown wet hops.

To the op, do you have alpha acid content info?
I don't have %AA directly.  But I'm lucky to have quite a bit of %AA data from university extension research programs for the varieties I grow from studies that were/are being done very near by.  On top of that, I have a very good feel for what the %AA could be through brewing with my hops (mostly after drying them) and tweaking the %AA in ways described by another poster here.

This brew I did all my wet hop additions 5 min or less and the aroma from the fermenter is very very nice.  I'm looking forward to taking the first sip of this batch!

2
Beer Recipes / wet hop ale - why not boil wet hops?
« on: August 21, 2016, 09:18:16 AM »
The hop picking season is happening & I'm doing my second wet hop brew.  Last time (2-3 seasons ago) all the hops went in wet from 60 min to steep.  It turned out fine.  This time I'm adding the hop wet hops (Cascade) only at the end of the boil- 5 min to steep, with FWH and 60 min. addition of dried homegrown Chinook.  I'm doing it this way mostly because my brief "research" on the web indicated that this is how the majority of brewers (home or pro) approach it.

Why is this?  Is the thinking that wet hops contribute more grassy/chlorophyll flavor if boiled or otherwise left in the wort longer?

Just curious what the rationale might be.

FWIW, my wort is:
6.25 lbs Maris Otter
2 lbs. dark munich
1 oz. chocolate malt

Cheers- brew onward!

3
Hop Growing / Re: Harvest in MI
« on: August 20, 2016, 06:16:51 PM »
My harvest in VT is well underway- everything seemed to be ready at the same time this summer. I've been picking like crazy to keep up & the oast is full.  Good stuff.

4
Ingredients / Re: Saison Kit + Homegrown Hops
« on: August 09, 2016, 01:19:44 PM »
Good call.  I've used my own cascades both wet and dry and overwhelmingly prefer them dry, and stored the way you spell out.  Easier to know how & when to use them when you have a dry weight to work with.

5
I am learning more and more that Brewers are Gnostics. There has to be a new hidden nugget of knowledge that no one else has yet to discover in the bazillion years of brew history. There are references to support any claim and where there isn't attack character!  LOL.

I don't know if it's the search for some special new nugget as much as it is an unnecessary tribalism where one person's opinion or experience automatically raises to the level of broadly applied truth and then the tribe must march to destroy all dissent. Then there is a foul argument between the old guard and the new in which terrible arguments and ad hominem attacks prevail.

Jamil, the host of Brew Strong, tends to speak in absolutes as if he has the final word on all things home brew.  Kudos to him for having the confidence in his opinions, but I find it off-putting.

6
In either case, Dr. Homebrew or competitions, the benefit to you as the brewer is feedback.  Not all feedback is accurate or useful.  You can choose to accept the comments as accurate or not, based on how they jive with your own assessment.  Everything else, including the handling of your entry, is beyond your control.

7
All Grain Brewing / Re: BIAB spent grain
« on: July 28, 2016, 08:21:23 PM »
Thanks! That helped a lot! That's a great idea using the drippings for a starter, however, how long can this be stored. I usually only brew three or four times a year with my current situation. Can the wort be stored for a few months in the fridge if its sealed well?

Secondly, if I am not worried about haze like with darker beers or wheat beers, should be OK to squeeze just based off of how you explained this right?

Great questions again.  Wort will only keep in the fridge for 2-3 weeks before it begins to go sour all by itself.  Plus it's prone to botulism bacteria if not fermented for a few months -- potentially dangerous.  Freezing it might be a perfect option though.

Sure, if you don't care about haze, then squeeze away.  Would work well for wheat beers.

Be careful- Botulism spores can survive freezing and boiling temps; I wouldn't bother storing starter wort if you cannot use it right away.  I know some brewers invest in pressure cooker canners to properly can wort for this reason.  DME is fairly cheap given the amounts needed to create a starter.

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Whirlpool Brown
« on: June 29, 2016, 08:41:49 AM »
I regularly brew an American brown ale recipe that I developed because its a style I enjoy.  Perhaps also because I rarely see commercial versions in the offering.  I enjoy how the flavor of mine changes over the 6-8 weeks in the keg before its gone.

9
All Grain Brewing / Re: Going all grain
« on: June 18, 2016, 02:08:24 PM »
I vote for using your well water as is and concentrate on just going through the steps of all-grain your first time.  You can use your taste buds as your guide as far as matching your water hardness to a grain bill.  I wouldn't stress about mash pH this early in the game either.  Just brew a baseline of your well water with a solid recipe and see how things go.

10
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Best Beers in America
« on: June 18, 2016, 02:01:32 PM »
The list is what it is.  I cannot complain because I didn't vote.  I don't vote mostly because I don't buy much beer, I drink primarily what I brew.  That said, I don't really think the list adds anything to Zymurgy...
There are often some brewery supplied Homebrew recipes that accompany the article. That has been an add for me over the years.
Good point- recipes do help.  I think it would also be interesting to tally all of the bjcp scores from the commercial calibration column and see what up there from those- particularly if the beers were more widely available.

11
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Best Beers in America
« on: June 17, 2016, 06:34:48 PM »
The list is what it is.  I cannot complain because I didn't vote.  I don't vote mostly because I don't buy much beer, I drink primarily what I brew.  That said, I don't really think the list adds anything to Zymurgy...

12
I'm definitely no scientist, but with batch sparging I can't imagine how the drain style would have anything to do with conversion or efficiency
I AM a scientist... and you are right for the reasons that Sacaromyces explains clearly and for the experience of Denny, myself, and many other batch spargers.

13
Equipment and Software / Re: Igloo 5 gallon tun
« on: June 02, 2016, 07:10:17 AM »
Braids work great if batch sparging, where you don't have worry about uniform flow of sparge water through your grain bed, which is what the false bottom designs are intended for in the case of fly sparging.  As a batch-sparging convert from fly sparging, I highly recommend going that route.  That's why I have the false bottom laying around...

14
Equipment and Software / Re: Igloo 5 gallon tun
« on: June 01, 2016, 06:34:46 PM »
I've got one that came with Northern Brewers all-grain cooler kit.  I no longer use it.  Private message me if you're interested in getting it from me.

15
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Confessions of NE IPA brewers
« on: May 29, 2016, 09:11:08 AM »
It is unclear to me from the link whether the flour and fruit puree is used in the tired hands IPA or some other beers in their line.

As a northeasterner myself with easy access to the originators of the "style", I really doubt that the haziness is necessarily the intent in say, Heady Topper.  I think the intent is to not allow fining or other clarification methods to diminish the hop flavor and aroma of the beer.  By design the intent is to keep as much hop in the flavor and aroma as possible and it is likely that some of that flavor is stuck on the yeast in suspension.  The side effects of this intent is a haziness and softer, fuller mouthfeel than a clear IPA.


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