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Messages - brewsumore

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I don't have the recipe here at work, but for ten gallons I think I used 1.5 oz at 60 minutes, and a bit more for FWH.  It worked as a very clean bittering hop, for which I perceived no onion or garlic.  The beer pre-dryhop had a bit of English Ale hybrid flavor that would only make sense since the grist included maybe 40% Marris Otter, several pounds of wheat malt and 2 lbs of medium-toasted flaked oats.  These actually worked well with the 50% 2-row and then the juicy flavors from the citrus and tropical fruit attribute hops.

Today is Monday.  Maybe 8 or 9 days ago I finished dry-hopping a 5-gal keg of IPA with an ounce of dried-on-the-bine whole cone summit hops + an ounce of pellet experimental lemon hops from Yakima Hops.  Following a week of dry-hopping I squeezed the hop bag pretty well into the keg, and when I squeezed a bit more from the bag into a glass and tasted that I thought i would choke from the overpowering dank, earthy, oniony flavor of course from the summits.  By this past Wednesday with the beer carbonated, the nasty hop flavor had permeated throughout the beer and I got a lot of that oniony/garlicky flavor and wondered if I had a dumper.  However, by this past Saturday (3 days later), a lot of that nastiness was gone and the beer tasted pretty good.  A friend who drinks plenty of IPAs came over this afternoon and we each drank a glass of it and it was very good, and we enjoyed it a lot and he said he got absolutely no onion or garlic flavor. 

So in my very recent experience, this nastiness that comes from sulphur in dry-hopped summits disappeared quickly and completely, just with the passage of time and no copper added.

Beer Recipes / Re: Dubbel
« on: April 07, 2014, 06:26:01 PM »
I was afraid you'd say that.  Well, I have 2 lbs of D2 in my fridge so I guess I'll be going with it this time.  Thanks for the clarification.

Beer Recipes / Re: Dubbel
« on: April 07, 2014, 12:30:39 PM »
It just continues to improve as it ages, and I've overshot my OG and if anything that made it better.  I share the opinion you previously posted, ya gotta use the Dark Candi Syrup (D2)!

or D-180.  I actually prefer the 180, but both are great products.

Hi Denny.  Although I admit that a variety of candi syrups would all work, I thought that d-180 and D2 are the same thing!  By the way, I'll start carbonating a new batch of your BVIP tonight.  However, after drinking some of the base beer left over and carbonated via Carbonator Cap, I actually wished that I had not added any vanilla or whisky.  It is one winner of a straight imperial porter!  I know I will enjoy it as BVIP too!  Apologies for going off topic.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Added a faucet
« on: April 07, 2014, 12:19:22 PM »
Hah!  As you can tell, in the art world I'm from the minimalist camp.  Beauty is synonymous with functionality.  Therefore, my chalkboard script could fall in either the "laundry list" or "note to self" fonts, to enhance the elegant nuance of white freezer and nailed boards.

Still, I actually was looking for an "elemental" compromise via the beauty of natural wood, although even I prefer that they would have all come from the same species.

You betcha' by golly yah - it works well!

Beer Recipes / Re: Dubbel
« on: April 06, 2014, 03:40:49 PM »
It just continues to improve as it ages, and I've overshot my OG and if anything that made it better.  I share the opinion you previously posted, ya gotta use the Dark Candi Syrup (D2)!

Beer Recipes / Re: Dubbel
« on: April 06, 2014, 03:29:24 PM »
I enjoy Tomme Arthur's version so much I keep going back to it, and want to brew it again soon!

Tomme Arthur's Dubbel July 2009

Recipe Specifics

Batch Size (Gal):        10.50    Wort Size (Gal):   10.50
Total Grain (Lbs):       26.94
Anticipated OG:          1.067    Plato:             16.37
Anticipated SRM:          19.0
Anticipated IBU:          18.8
Brewhouse Efficiency:       70 %
Wort Boil Time:            110    Minutes


   %     Amount     Name                          Origin        Potential SRM
 31.5     8.50 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row)              Belgium        1.037      3
 31.5     8.50 lbs. Pilsener                      Belgium        1.037      2
  7.9     2.13 lbs. Wheat Malt                    Belgium        1.038      2
  6.0     1.62 lbs. Aromatic Malt                 Belgium        1.036     25
  5.6     1.50 lbs. Belgian Dark Candi Syrup D2   Belgium        1.032     80
  3.5     0.94 lbs. Munich Malt                   Belgium        1.038      8
  3.2     0.88 lbs. Biscuit Malt                  Belgium        1.035     24
  3.2     0.88 lbs. CaraMunich Malt               Belgium        1.033     75
  3.0     0.81 lbs. Honey Malt                    Canada         1.030     18
  3.0     0.81 lbs. Special B Malt                Belgian        1.030    120
  1.4     0.38 lbs. Piloncillo Sugar              Mexico         1.046     45


   Amount     Name                              Form    Alpha  IBU  Boil Time
  1.00 oz.    Fuggle                            Pellet   4.64  11.0  90 min.
  0.50 oz.    Liberty                           Pellet   4.38   4.7  60 min.
  1.00 oz.    Goldings - E.K.                   Pellet   5.30   3.1  15 min.


  Amount      Name                           Type      Time
  9.00 Oz     Raisins                          Fruit      0 Days(boil)


White Labs WLP500 Trappist Ale

Mash Schedule
Qts Water Per Lbs Grain: 1.36 - Before Additional Infusions

Saccharification Rest Temp : 152  Time:  90
Mash-out Rest Temp :           0  Time:   0
Sparge Temp :                  0  Time:   0


for 10.5 gallons beer, I added 9 oz. of lightly caramelized, pureed
raisins at end of boil.  Caramelize raisins in a bit of port or mead, or in
wort with a splash of brandy (I did this), then puree.

Beer Recipes / Re: Citra APA
« on: April 06, 2014, 03:19:30 PM »
I make an all-citra APA and typically add 2 oz dry hop per 5 gal keg, and do a hop stand on brew day - mostly FWH + late addition hops.  From discussing with a pro brewer who makes a popular Belgian IPA locally, with late/dry hop additions of citra, depending partly on your source/year, citra is a hop that sometimes holding back a little will provide the best flavor profile.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: April 06, 2014, 03:03:59 PM »
those look tasty! How is the chokecherry? Sounds interesting, were they added in secondary and how much?

Dubo-bro' --

I shared my recipe/notes and answered your question at:
hey thanks, I'll check it out

Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk

ooops - didn't realize I crossed over to a different forum.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: April 06, 2014, 02:03:33 PM »
those look tasty! How is the chokecherry? Sounds interesting, were they added in secondary and how much?

Dubo-bro' --

I shared my recipe/notes and answered your question at:

Kegging and Bottling / Added a faucet
« on: April 06, 2014, 01:22:53 PM »
So, when I built my kegerator maybe three years ago I thought to myself, "I won't need more than 3 taps".  Well, considering that my 7.2 cf chest freezer kegerator efficiently holds 6 ball locks, I realized that adding another faucet would provide a more hygienic solution in comparison to using a picnic tap inside the kegerator when I wanted to add a fourth beer to the "currently on tap" list.

I placed the new faucet on the side where it would not interfere with moving kegs into or out of the kegerator.  Also, I can interchange that faucet with a nitro tap when desired, and it will be nice to have it separate on the side at that time.  When I do that, I will drill one more gas line hole through the wood collar to pass the beer gas tubing through it to reach the keg holding beer to go onto nitro.

The main thing I wanted to share is that I was very happy with the results from using a combination caulk/adhesive (available in caulk gun tubes) to attach the mounting board for the new single-faucet drip tray, and leaving a caulk bead of it around the exterior edges of the mounting board.  This will prevent liquids (beer, sanitizer, etc.) from dripping in behind the mounting board which would have made it hard to clean, and prone to bacteria growth.  It took a bit of patience as the adhesive began to set, to ensure it hardened in place, and used a level to keep checking that the mounting board remained level until it set hard, which took about 2 hours.

I had previously used the same all-purpose adhesive/caulk (I used Polyseamseal brand) to seal the open edges in a foam-insulated picnic cooler lid that I cut out when building a jockey box to hold ball lock kegs.  So I knew it would work for this application and provide a very strong adhesive bond.

Before I attached the mounting board to the kegerator, I added 4 coats of polyurethane to it and added the drip tray mounting screws.  I couldn't find beechwood to match the front faucet panel, put purchased a short light-colored board of poplar which looks good.

I also replaced a 5 lb co2 tank that provided gas to my 4-way manifold, with a 15-pounder with two leads off of the regulator.  The second lead is a short line with a gas quick disconnect that I can use to purge kegs, etc, easily without having to lift them into the kegerator.  The other 15-lb co2 tank I use to carbonate kegs and/or to serve beer at a different psi and one of its leads goes through a secondary regulator.

Here it is:

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: April 06, 2014, 12:02:05 PM »

From left to right:

1. Summit/Amarillo/Citra IPA.  Recently tapped, and still cloudy from dry hops, plus flaked oats and wheat malt in the grain bill.

2. Choke cherry Belgian Wit.  Made with the actual fruit.

3. Saison Dupont Clone

Each one is tasty.

Last weekend I kegged and same time added keg dry hops to an IPA I had made 2 weeks earlier.  After racking into 2 corny kegs (10 gal batch), there was +1 quart extra, uncarbonated beer, to which no dry hops had been added. 

I wanted to get a feel for what dry hopping would do for this beer.  So, I carbonated the extra quart of beer with a Carbonator Cap (my first time using one), and then infused some of that with some dried whole summit hops, removed with a mint julep spoon, and squeezed additional hoppy beer through the spoon into my glass after the spoon was removed.

It made a tasty beer into a very tasty beer, of course still in need of conditioning.  The process helped me anticipate what my finished kegged beer will taste like.  It also was timed so I could have revised my dry hop addition in the kegs, although I didn't feel that was needed.

Next time I will just cold steep some (preferably whole) hops in any extra uncarbed beer, strain it, and then carbonate via the Carbonator Cap... a much better approach.

The Carbonator Cap is a great tool, that I never thought about much as to how it can be used to dial-in dry hopping rate, and even dry hop combinations for the bulk of your batch.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Twice, but never again
« on: March 22, 2014, 02:18:15 PM »
Two weeks ago at flameout I remembered that I had forgotten to add whirfloc and Wyeast nutrient.  Luckily, I was doing a 45-minute hop stand without additional pre-cooling of the wort, so I just added them at flameout, and as per my hop stand procedure, stirred every few minutes.  There was plenty of time for them to incorporate and be pasteurized/sterilized.

I kegged/started the dry-hop last night and the beer tasted great, and had no problem fermenting.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Quality of All grain vs. Extract
« on: March 22, 2014, 02:03:09 PM »
Do you include partial mash as an extract brew?  If so, it's hard to acknowledge much difference between those and an all-grain beer.

However, it seems like a lot of support for equality between extract and all-grain brews.  I agree in regards to that potential to a point, especially as Erockrph states in regards to a limited number of styles or their sub-categories. 

Still I think that if you were to look at a wide sampling of many all-grain brews made by brewers expert in both recipe design and brewing, compared to many extract beers (excluding partial mash) made again by experts, I believe that the win column will contain a considerably higher percentage of all-grain brews.

This is attributable in large part to more control of 1) fermentability of the wort which also plays into yeast selection to reach desired finished body, mouthfeel and flavor of the beer, 2) more potential for creating a desired or creative wort profile as designed by building a mashed grist with potentially numerous malts/adjuncts/other, in comparison to a standardized extract combined with steeped grains, 3) better quality control over freshness of ingredients, 4) control of the mash environment (water treatment, grain/water ratio).

I admit some of this is based on hypothetical equal conditions, but I think you have to look at real world ability to control the variables by the brewer.

Still, I must admit there are some truly wonderful extract brews.  But having gone all-grain a number of years ago, I have no desire to go back to extract beers, even though I place absolutely no stigma on them, and made and really enjoyed a fair number of them during my earlier years of home brewing.  Cheers!

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