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Messages - TeeDubb

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All Grain Brewing / Re: tangerines
« on: January 23, 2018, 01:32:50 AM »
Appreciate the correction and information based on direct experience.  I imagine the juice is a small-ish percentage of total fermentables?

All Grain Brewing / Re: tangerines
« on: January 22, 2018, 09:03:58 PM »
I have heard that fermented orange juice (tangerines also, perhaps) taste a lot like vomit. The rind without pith may add some nice flavors and aromas when added as a late boil addition.

Equipment and Software / Re: brew bucket
« on: January 10, 2018, 06:07:57 AM »
Middle ground on price may be the Chapman fermenter, for your consideration. Close to $120 (sometimes less than $100 if they have a sale), all stainless.  I like that it blocks light, is easy to clean, and has a very tight lid seal.  I added the spigot from the SS Brewbucket for $20 to my 7 gal Chapman and have been very happy with it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Defect Diagnosis
« on: January 09, 2018, 01:27:45 AM »
Thanks!  Maybe it's time to replace o-rings and gaskets in the fermenter.  I will get some idophor and give that a try too before the next round.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Defect Diagnosis
« on: January 07, 2018, 10:31:30 PM »
They are thermowell temps inside the wort.  I use an external chiller and cooling coil inside the fermenter.

Yeast and Fermentation / Defect Diagnosis
« on: January 07, 2018, 07:01:03 PM »
I recently brewed a gluten free Pale Ale using the Ground Breaker Brewing recipe (with different hops) that was posted a few months ago. I racked to keg last night and something was clearly off.

I normally brew all grain, so a partial mash brew seemed fun with the intent to make a GF ale for a few gluten sensitive friends that don't drink beer. Brew day went without issue. I started with RO water, added a little gypsum and calcium chloride to suit the style. Wort pH was 5.35 before the boil. The wort tasted fine going into the fermenter. I used US-05 which became active about 12 hours after pitching.  I kept fermentation at 66-67 for 5-6 days and ramped up to 68-69 after activity seemed to subside. OG was 1.052 and FG was 1.009 after 11 days.  Fermentation seemed slower that usual, but steady.

After racking to keg and adding dry hops, I evaluated a sample from the fermenter. Appearance was as expected (light gold / orange).  Aroma was earthy with some rubber in there!  Maybe a touch of phenolic.  I did not get band aids directly, but maybe there is some of that in there too.  Flavor matches the aroma if that makes any sense. I also noticed that there was a thick layer of very loosely flocculated yeast at the bottom of the fermenter. I think I lost at least .75 gal during racking to keg. I have never seen that with US-05 or from the 4-5 other liquid strains I typically use. Photos at link below - note that I did seem to transfer some hop matter from the boil kettle because my revised whirlpool method did not work as planned to collect trub in the middle.

My question is if anyone has experienced this type of defect and/or the yeast flocculation behavior.  I suspect that I got an infection somewhere, despite my usual liberal use of Star-San and extensive equipment cleaning. Maybe my RO water source gave me some chlorine? I'm trying not to blame the GF ingredients :) but the next batch is likely go back to my usual recipes.  I'm going to let this one sit in the keg for 1-2 weeks and then likely dump it, but it would be nice to understand what may have happened.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Building Water for Gluten Free Pale Ale
« on: December 10, 2017, 05:28:48 PM »
Andy - thank you for the finding this reference! There is a wealth of great info in there. Your comment made me think back to when I started out and was doing partial mash kits.  I never adjusted water and the beer turned out fine. I did not think to consider that the extract already has most of the necessary salts but that makes complete sense.  Much appreciated.

All Grain Brewing / Re: cacao nibs and vodka
« on: December 09, 2017, 07:48:00 PM »
I have a chocolate stout recipe that I make once a year around this time and I used to use cocoa nibs to get a bit more chocolate flavor.  I have experimented with soaking the nibs in vodka and I felt that any more than 4-5 days results in some astringency when added to the beer.  This would fade over 1-2 months but still not a great effect.  This year I adjusted the grain bill and was able to omit the nibs altogether and still get the desired chocolate aroma and flavor without the cocoa.

One other tip: if you use the cocoa tincture, stick it in the freezer for a few hours and skim off any fat that may come out of the nibs to help with head retention.

General Homebrew Discussion / Building Water for Gluten Free Pale Ale
« on: December 07, 2017, 09:44:41 PM »
I'm planning on trying take myself out the comfort zone and brew a gluten free pale ale for a few friends that have pretty severe gluten sensitivity.  I have been trying to do as much reading on the topic and Denny's podcast (episode 38) earlier this year was a huge help understanding the basics.  I decided to try a modified version of the Ground Breaker Brewing recipe that was posted here:

My only changes are the hop bill (hop type) using the guidance that James Neumeister from GBB gave in the podcast.  Aim for lower bitterness, focus on late additions - sounds great and a personal preference anyway.

The question I have is on the water for the recipe.  I was not able to find much information on building water for a GF beer.  My gut feel says to do my usual which is: start with RO water, add salts to suit the style. But the unknown is pH. It does not seem that pH is major factor in the mash starch conversion, but there is likely a target range for healthy fermentation, mouthfeel, flavor and preservation.  Right now I'm leaning on taking some measurements during the mash and then adjusting the pH with lactic acid before the boil (I suspect it may need an adjustment down).  Has anyone else worked through this?

Beer Recipes / Re: Gluten free chestnut beer
« on: November 13, 2017, 11:31:25 PM »
I was thinking of trying one of the recipes in the latest issue of Zymurgy - it has a great article on GF beer brewing.  I'm skeptical on the results, but also have several friends with this nasty allergy, so willing to try it. I may scale down for the first attempt, especially if I try and incorporate chestnuts over the other ingredients.

Equipment and Software / Re: Electric brewery - need help
« on: November 07, 2017, 12:58:57 AM »
Just following up on prior response.  Here is what I would check:

Hold the up and down arrows on the controller for a few seconds and then try / check these settings:
LSP = 45
USP = 220
HY1 = 1.0 (default)
HY2 = 1.0 (default)
dP = 1 (default)
ScY = 015 (default, password)
The controller will only command the outputs when between 45 and 220F.  It's a nice feature to have if a thermocouple fails or gets unplugged and goes out of normal range.

Then, check the main settings.  Hold the SET button for a few seconds. Here is what I use for mash control:
AL1 = 215
A|^|1 = 0 (sets control logic)
AL2 = 200 (I think this just turns on a warning on the display)
A|^|2 = 2
PuF = 1.0 (changing this makes corrections to temp sensor offset)
InP = K (if using a K-type thermocouple)
P=1.0 (PID gains)
I=1.0 (PID gains)
D=0.0 (PID gains)
oUd = HEAT (control direction)
HY5 = 0.5 (not used in PID mode)
CeL = 001 (SSR control mode)
ErL = 0.0 (default, not used)
ErH = 100.0 (default, not used)
b5L = PID
C-F = F (temp units)
LCY = 000 (default, password)

and then, your SV on the home screen should be your target control temp. The controller should energize OUT1 which is connected to your SSR. The SSR should be 100% duty cycle if you are more than 1-2 degrees away from SV.  Hope this is useful. One of these days, I'll write up a help file with a wiring diagram.

Equipment and Software / Re: Electric brewery - need help
« on: November 06, 2017, 04:15:40 PM »
I use the MYPIN TA-4 for my mash temperature control and can say that it took a little while to sort out all of the internal parameter settings. The instruction manual is an awful translation from Chinese. Assuming that the unit is wired correctly, it could be one of the safety settings that disables the output to the SSR if the temperature is out of range.

Can you post the settings you are using?  Hold down the Set button and then page through them. Also, hold down the up and down arrows simultaneously and post the settings you have there.  I will compare when I'm back home this afternoon and see if everything looks right.

Equipment and Software / Re: Clear Beer Draught System - Questions
« on: November 05, 2017, 05:10:17 PM »
I was thinking about purchasing one of these as well and understand the concept. My questions are:

- What is the quality of the beer like for the last 25% of the keg when loose hops are use for keg hopping? Does the beer get vegetel or astringent?
- If a bag is used in the keg to contain the hops, does the bag interfere with the float near the bottom of the keg?

Any comments are appreciated.

Beer Recipes / Re: When to add orange peel
« on: November 02, 2017, 03:16:47 PM »
I brewed a Belgian Wit last year and added the peel only during the last 5 min of boil.  The 0.5oz added nice flavor and a touch of aroma.  I would not change anything if I brewed it again.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Viability of Harvested Yeast
« on: October 20, 2017, 04:26:52 AM »
Thanks Todd - that makes a lot of sense.  I will keep the sample on beer next time and try and use it within 1-2 weeks for the next batch.

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