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Messages - Lager

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General Homebrew Discussion / Eisbock container
« on: December 04, 2015, 05:38:51 PM »
I made an Eisbock and was wondering when it comes time to do the freezing part, what is the best container to use? I was thinking a Korny Keg. Does the freezing damage the seals? Or is there something better to use?


General Homebrew Discussion / DRY HOPPING
« on: November 03, 2014, 09:05:49 PM »
I made an IPL. already in the primary and it is towards the end of fermentation. I have added 1 oz of hops which I will keep on for 1 week, do a Diacetyl rest then transfer into a secondary. I want to add more hops in the secondary. I understand that the beer should be on a dosage of hops no longer than ~ 2 weeks but I want to lager for 4 weeks. would it be best to just transfer after two weeks in the secondary to a tertiary or just put the hops in on the last two weeks?
And what is the best way to prevent oxygen introduction? I usually put my hops in a bag weighted with SS nuts and then transfer the beer on it. but if I wait until the last two weeks of Lagering I will have to 'drop' the bag in.

I thought PBW was an alkaline cleaner and oxiclean a neutral cleaner

Steve, are there any cleaners you would recommend

« on: October 07, 2014, 01:36:53 PM »
I want to use a copper immersion chiller I have to recirculate wort. I have a 25' chiller that I have only used for a prechiller. I was thinking of putting it a pot of water that the temp would be controlled by heating with a burner when needed. I have a march pump so I can run the wort from the mash tun through the chiller and back in the MT. this would allow me to maintain and/or raise the temp as needed. I tried doing the same just recirculating through the mash tun with the heat under the MT but it gets a little tricky trying not to get hot spots or roast the grain. My question, would the fact that it is copper effect the taste of the wort?

Kegging and Bottling / Re: bottling with fresh yeast
« on: September 20, 2013, 12:48:08 PM »
Thanks, for the feedback. I do realize that it takes something for the yeast to eat and not the yeast alone that makes the bottle bombs. I guess I should have been a bit clearer about my question. How can I be certain that there is not enough residual sugar left? Taking a gravity reading would tell me if I hit a certain gravity which will help a bit, however most strong Belgians tend to be on the higher side of carbonation. So I guess my original thought was that by knowing approximately how much yeast should be added to a batch at bottling time I could help to minimize the issue, but maybe I am wrong.
Also would it help to condition at a colder temp (~50 deg) to slow the process down?
I know when I had the previous bottle bomb issue I took the remaining bottle and put them in the fridge which stopped the explosions.

Kegging and Bottling / bottling with fresh yeast
« on: September 17, 2013, 05:39:00 PM »
I am about to bottle a clone of RR Consecration that I brewed last year and has been sitting on bacteria and wood. It was a recipe available at More Beer. Vinnie C. states that he adds champagne yeast at bottling.
I used champagne yeast once for bottling a golden strong and had bottle bombs. So I want to get this correct since I have been waiting a year.
How do you go about adding the yeast at bottling? What amount for a 5g batch? Do I rehydrate? Any other steps to take?
I am planning on using thick wall Belgian bottles. Any particular temp I should condition at?
Thanks in advance

« on: April 25, 2013, 01:37:10 AM »
I would like to build a temperature controlled Mash Tun. If there is anyone out there that has a great resource for items such as a PID temp controllers, thermocouple probes, and SSRs. I have been looking but the PIDs I have found are at least $90, and most $150 or more. Is it really necessary to spend that kind of money?
Also, any information about matching the products would be helpful

Ingredients / Re: ACIDULATED MALTS
« on: April 15, 2013, 12:50:27 PM »
not brewing it until mid May. I let you know in June

Ingredients / Re: ACIDULATED MALTS
« on: March 29, 2013, 06:14:54 PM »
Thanks for all of the help so far. I thought it was only a PH thing and should be no "bug" issue, but I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something for equipment use
I have read similar information from [I think it was Gordon Strong] about the use of Lactic Acid straight up not giving the right taste profile for souring, but can be used during bottling to slightly boast the profile if the initial result isn't sour enough
The cost of the acid malt is really not an issue. It is about the same price as most malts/pound. I was just wondering if I could do the main mash and a separate steep at the same time to save some time
I also pondered the idea of doing a separate sour mash a few days before, but when I had seen some well-known brewer's recipes using the acid malt, I thought that might be easier
I think I am going to stick to the plan of using the acid malt, but would appreciate any feedback on if it would matter if I did: the main mash followed by a second hour mash with the acid malt added, or doing the separate steep and adding the liquid either to the mash before sparging or directly to the boil kettle just prior to boil

« on: March 28, 2013, 02:27:50 PM »
I am making a Gose and have two questions concerning the use of acidulated malts
1.   When using acidulated malt, do I need to use a separate fermenter, tubing and so forth like you do when using bacterial cultures like Brettanomyces? (keeping in mind that I use Better Bottle and Speidel Plastic Fermenters
2.   One recipe I found and liked recommended doing an hour mash then adding the acidulated malt to the mash and mash for another hour [so the other grains can mash under ideal PH before introducing the acidulated malts. Could I get the same result by doing a steeping of the acidulated malts separately while the main mash is going {in order to save time} and just pour the steeping liquid into the boil kettle  during sparging? Will this get me the same result? 

Homebrew Clubs / Dues for Home Brew Club
« on: February 14, 2013, 05:56:29 PM »
Our club is starting to grow and we are thinking about starting dues. I was wondering if anyone who is part of an established club would be willing to answer a few questions
Does your club have Dues?
How much are they?
Is it mandatory?
Do you have an option for those who don’t want to pay dues but want to participate occasionally in club events? Such as paying per meeting or activity.
What do you do if someone who was a paying member doesn’t pay after a few reminders?
What if they end up showing up at your meetings or events, are they asked to leave?
Thank you in advance

Beer Recipes / Inclusion of other fermented beverages
« on: November 16, 2011, 05:56:25 PM »
Curiosity: You can ferment so many things, Honey, all types of on. Why is Mead and Cider included in beer sites, discussion, competitions and classifications such as the BJCP guidelines? Beer has been historically considered to include grain of some sort - usually barley. There might have been the odd exceptions throughout history, but I would submit that these exceptions are incorrect. Wine is wine because of the use of grapes. Beer is beer because of the types of grain and process, otherwise we should just call it all fermentable drinks and be all inclusive. Even certain "hard" liquors use grain (sometimes the same types), but we have kept them separate.
If it is just a matter of tradition or history of including Cider and Mead, it still doesn't make any sense and should really be reconsidered.

« on: November 11, 2011, 09:03:50 PM »
What is the "usual recommended" flow rate of wort from the mash into the boil? I know it could be important to efficiency and to channeling

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How many people use hop bags?
« on: August 16, 2011, 05:30:14 PM »
I know there are large strain bags sold at HB shops, how they compare to a paint strainer in terms of material would be intresting to know since my concern with a paint strainer and using PVC in boiling temperatures could be both a health and - to a lesser degree - off flavor issues. PVC is not recommended for use in foods when using high temps, and I would guess that the material for a paint strainer is not deisgned to be safe for foods or to be used at boiling temps.
I think it would be safer to assume the big straining bags sold in HB shops would be safe for the high temps since that is the intent. And PVCP is approved for high temps and food use.

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