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Topics - boapiu

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Kegging and Bottling / Pressure transfer keg to keg
« on: December 23, 2016, 08:43:18 PM »
Wondering if beer can be transferred from one keg to another like pressure filling a bottle from a keg. I have a 2 1/2 gallon keg and want to fill it from one of my 5 gallon kegs to send the beer home with my son. This should work, no? Any thoughts?

Kegging and Bottling / too much foam from tap ?
« on: September 05, 2014, 08:27:05 PM »
I am force carbonating at 10-12 psi and when I start to serve from the keg it seems over carbonated, too much head and foam. Generally these beers are pale ales (my fav) but also on everything I force carbonate at 10-12 psi. I have tried 10 ft lengths of beer line from the keg to the picnic tap and this doesn't make a difference from 3 ft lengths or 10 feet of cheap HD tubing - still too much head. However, I used my spare CO2 tank for serving only, set at 2-4 psi and had acceptable results. Unfortunately, as time wore on the beer seemed to loose carbonation, as expected. I would like to connect all my kegs to one source of pressure and both force carbonate and serve without swapping things around, but I don't like the beer coming out of the picnic tap with so much force, or the excessive head which results. What's a mother to do?
Wondering if I am missing something here or is this the cost of doing business. If anyone has experienced similar and solved same, I appreciate your input. TIA.

Ingredients / long term storage of ingrdients
« on: January 06, 2014, 12:16:00 PM »
will it damage unmilled grain if stored in a freezer?

If I had two separate co2 tanks and regulators and set one to force carbonate my kegs at 10-12 psi for say a week to 10 days at about 40 degrees, then switched the gas in line to a different co2 tank with regulator set at lower pressure for serving perhaps 2-3 psi, would the co2 slowly diffuse from solution and eventually result in the beer having a lower level of carbonation, ultimately equivalent to 2-3 psi? would the beer last long enough to find out?
okay, any ideas about the first question?

Okay, pardon me for not doing a search but I am lazy and it is Friday afternoon and my weekend ends tomorrow at 1100 hours so I have already assumed that the sun is over the yardarm and I am on my ? brew.
That being said, and having excused myself and taken for granted the kindness and patience of my fellow AHA members, I ask the question which follows.
what is the advantage of a pressure bottle filler arrangement? and where to get educated about how to use one? oops, two questions.
Background. They, bottle fillers,  seem to be expensive and I do not know how to use them. But, I like kegging a heck of a lot more than bottling and do not often care about giving my brews away (off premises). Currently I keg some and bottle some. And, for what it is worth, my bottled brew always seems to taste a bit off, at least compared to my kegged brew from the same batch. And that, pride being a big elephant in the closet for a relatively new homebrewer, is one of the big issues here. Why is my beer from a bottle, aged according to specs, tasting so differerent than that from the keg, although granted the keg is consumed in merely a few weeks, (days!?...hmm, after carbonation, of course). I consistently use corn sugar and about the same amount recommended by recognised books and am careful of sanitation, though no one is perfect and I have had to toss a batch or two and no one is perfect but really, can there be that big a difference? Guess so.
Back to the question, how about those pressure bottle fillers where I keg all my brew and only fill bottles as needed or wanted?
Thanks for your indulgence and I hope there are those amoung you who have current experience and can lend some free advice. I really enjoy this hobby.

Twice now I have measured preboil gravity and then post boil and found they are close, but just a bit higher after the boil. All grain, 10 gallons, using a thermopen to check the temperature of my sample. I usually collect about 13 gallons of wort and have around 11+ after 60 minute boil. For example, today I got 1.016 at 180f pre boil (converts to 1.045?) and 1.042 at 70f post boil (1.043?). I am more than happy with my efficiency and all that, but I had thought the gravity would increase as volume decreased during the boil. Any thoughts? Maybe this is within the margin of error considering my instruments.

All Grain Brewing / Mashing with flaked maize
« on: March 14, 2013, 07:55:28 PM »
Trying first batch using adjunct flaked maize. Have read to put some rice hulls at bottom of mash tun. Question, does the flaked maize get crushed along with my base malts? Using about 9 lbs pilsner, 9 lbs 2 row and 3 lbs of flaked maize for a 10 gallon batch of cream ale. Thanks in advance.

Equipment and Software / recirculating wort return device
« on: January 30, 2013, 04:16:03 PM »
I have been trying different ways to recirculate my wort at the end of mashing and tried this seemingly simple method last brewing session. It worked very well without any channelling that I could detect. It is a stainless pickup tube connected to a weld less fitting through the side of the keggle. On the other end is short length of tubing with a wort aerator inserted into it. I fitted a clamp over this because I was concerned it might come loose while mashing. The fit is very snug and the clamp is probably not needed but,....
The wort exits just below the top level of fluid in the mash when I am converting a typical 10 gallon batch. On the outside of the keggle through fitting I have a valve to regulate the flow rate. Of course this requires a pump, which I already had as part of my brew rig.
I really like the results of recirculating the wort until it flows into the MT clear as glass. And this latest step in the evolution of my brew rig clears the way for some type of heat exchange to better maintain my mash temp and perhaps perform step mashes.

Beer Recipes / ? Ale made with german lager yeast ?
« on: December 12, 2012, 07:06:58 PM »
I am notmready to try my luck at brewing a lager quite yet but, I got ahead of myself and ordered some WLP830 German Lager Yeast. I have brewed a couple california common style batches using lager yeast, what are the chances of getting similar good results fermenting at ale temps with this yeast? Any ideas for a recipe? I did a search but everything that came up was fermrnted at lager temps. Thanks for any ideas.

Ingredients / backwards recipe creation
« on: July 12, 2012, 09:42:43 PM »
Not sure that subject describes the question but here goes: I have a bunch of hops and some yeast and want to make some beer. Is there a web site or something that I can begin with either hops or yeast and come up with the other ingredients for the brew? I am manually searching my back issues of BYO and Zymurgy but it is time consuming and I want to place an order for grain. Oh yeah, that is the missing ingredient and I want to determine how much of what for the grain bill. Thanks in advance.
back to the search.....

Equipment and Software / Aeration? How important is the method?
« on: June 22, 2012, 08:27:20 PM »
My next system upgrade may be an aquarium pump for aerating the wort. At present I am pouring from bucket to bucket a couple times and results are fine. But along with implementing yeast starters I figured an aeration system would be a logical step. Opinions on pros and cons and good ideas about technique are welcome. I already bought a stone and HEPA filter a while back, got ahead of myself in the beginning. Now with harvesting yeast and making starters to help things get going, well, the hobby can be a self licking ice cream cone. I wonder what kinds of different methods folks are using and what the various opinions are.
ps. My transition to batch sparging has yielded excellent results and I can't see going back to trying to fly sparge. I'm still using my pump to vorlauf and am pleased with how clear the wort is.
Thanks in advance.

Living where the ground water is rarely below 85 deg F I have had trouble getting my boil cooled to pitching temperature. Yesterday I rigged my pump to recirculate the wort in the boil kettle and nearly halved the time it took to reach 70 deg F. I still used ice to get the ground water cooled, but not until around 100 deg F. Previously it would take nearly an hour to reach this temperature.

Just about the best advance in my brew session yet. ;D

All Grain Brewing / oxidation risk with batch sparging
« on: June 07, 2012, 12:59:49 PM »
I have done a little of both batch and continuous sparging and am wondering about the increased risk of oxidation when the grain bed is uncovered with batch sparging. I was reading some of the threads concerning fly vs batch sparging and noticed simplicity and wort clarity mentioned but not oxidation. Is oxidation such a small problem that it doesn't out weigh the other benefits? In the March-April 2008 BYO there is an article comparing the two methods and it mentioned a sort of hybrid technique where the wort is drained but not completely, so that the grain bed remains covered and then additional water added prior to draining again. This process is repeated as often as needed until the correct boil volume is obtained. I may give this a try as I no longer have a set up that allows me to both add water and drain simultaneously.

I am curious if folks more experienced with batch sparging have any issues with oxidation.

Yeast and Fermentation / when is fermentation through
« on: May 30, 2012, 03:00:30 PM »
I have been all grain brewing for almost a year now and, pretty much, always followed a formula of two weeks in primary and one week in secondary and then keg/bottle. I have been reading posts reflecting the opinion that secondary is not necessary, perhaps even unwise, unless conditions such as dry hopping, lagerring or some others dictate it. So my question is how to determine when to rack to the keg based on temperature. I have those stick on thermometer things on both my fermentation buckets and the temperature reads 70 deg F and there is only an occasional bubble in the airlock. I brewed six days ago on May 24 and the fermentation got off to a great start, bubbling away during the first 24 hours. The temperature rose to 74 deg F during the first several days (I was out of town during some of that time). The fermentation chamber is a temperature controlled chest freezer held at 70 deg F, plus or minus a couple deg.
So, should I rack to my keg/bottles or give the yeast more time to clean things up despite the obvious temperature drop?
Thanks in advance.

Yeast and Fermentation / when to add nutrient to starter
« on: May 09, 2012, 02:33:55 PM »
I am making my first starter and was wondering about adding yeast nutrient. During wort boiling or when I pitch the yeast. I was thinking that the nutrient should be boiled just like the wort so it is sterilized but, would boiling kill any helpful nutrients? If I add it to the cooled wort am I likely to add contaminants that haven't been sterilized?
The stuff is Fermax Yeast Nutrient by Crosby and Baker, Ltd. I bought at local homebrew supplier.
Thanks in advance.

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