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Topics - cmuzz

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Equipment and Software / Rubbermaid vs. Igloo Cooler
« on: July 22, 2011, 06:25:38 AM »
Looking to get a 10 gallon cooler to make a mash tun. I've found Both Rubbermaid & Igloo for the same price of $39.95.

So the question is, with cost out of the picture, does one or the other have any drawbacks?

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Yeast and Fermentation / Rehydration Question
« on: February 22, 2011, 09:52:19 AM »
I’ve always used Wyeast smack packs to brew beer & mead with, but just made a mead with dry Champaign yeast and it worked out great. Here is the issue. I used Go-Ferm in the water to rehydrate the yeast for pitching in the mead. Should I do the same in rehydrating for beer?

I’m using Safale #S-33 in a Belgian Witt & Safale #S-04 in a Scotch Ale. Instrux are just to put dry into the aerated wort. Would I get better results with feeding the yeasties first?

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Yeast and Fermentation / Aeration for wine versus beer
« on: February 11, 2011, 11:20:08 AM »
I’m just returning to brewing mead after a 15 year hiatus during which I have been brewing beer. I notice now that aeration has become a big deal in the treatment of the feeding cycle of mead brewing. Instructions are to aerate with each nutrient addition through the first few days of active fermentation.

Now, in brewing beer, my understanding has always been to aerate the wort before adding the yeast and then no further oxygen should ever be allowed to come in contact with the wort.

I use an aeration wand and oxygen for my higher gravity beers and I was planning on using that with each staggered feeding of the Champaign yeast in my next batch of mead. Just want to be sure I’m on the right track.

Can someone explain why there is a difference here?

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Other Fermentables / Making first Mead Batch in 15 years
« on: February 10, 2011, 07:55:14 AM »
Hello all. First post here. I started brewing mead in the late 80’s and have always been partial to a very dry finish with lots of honey nose. Got my first recipe from “Making Mead: A Complete Guide to the Making of Sweet and Dry Mead, Melomel, Metheglin, Hippocras, Pyment and Cyser by Acton. I made three 5 gallon batches and got very satisfactory results with the following cobbled together recipe:

1.75oz Tartaric
3.25oz Malic
.9oz Tannin
6 pinches Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom Salt)
15 milligrams B1
6 tsp Yeast Nutrient (Potassium Phosphate / Ammonium Phosphate)
Campden Tabs

15lbs Unfiltered Honey
Champaign Yeast
Water to 5.5 gallons

Mix honey with warm water & acids, tannin & nutrient. Add 2 campden tablets per gallon of must & wait 24-36 hours.
Pitch yeast & ferment for 30-45 days until dry. Temp range 70-75 degrees F.
Rack to 5 gallon carboy. Add 1 campden tablet per gallon. Top off and fit with airlock.
Rack again when heavy deposit forms or 3 months. Add 1 campden tablet per gallon.
Age 3-4 months, then Bottle & mature 1-3 years.

Of course I always had slow and unsteady fermentations, hence the 45 days in the primary. The 6-8 month tasting tasted like rocket fuel, but by the 1-2 year mark I consistently had a spectacular end product. But by the mid 90’s I switched solely to brewing beer because of the instant gratification.

Now I’m missing the taste of my old mead homebrew and have decided to jump back in. WOW! Has the world of mead making changed. It looks like I can rework my old recipe for a much more efficient product. So I need your help.

I picked up some Go-Ferm to help in yeast rehydration. I got Fermaid-K & DAP to take the place of the mag sulfate, B1 & Nutrient. I have studied the Staggered Nutrient Addition and am ready to rock.

Questions:
1) Some sources recommend adding the acids & tannin in the secondary or later. Good advice?
2) I have an air wand & oxygen tank that I use in aerating beer must before pitching yeast. Is that good practice here? Some sources say to do that with every addition of nutrients. Good Advice or just shake or stir each SNA?

Any other advice would be helpful.

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