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Topics - dllipe

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I need two Saturday afternoon tickets and can trade two Friday afternoon tickets.

I live in Lafayette, CO and work in DT Boulder.  I have the tickets printed out.

Let me know if you'd like to trade and we can make it happen.

Beer Travel / Which taprooms should I hit up in Dallas TX?
« on: April 16, 2014, 04:35:59 PM »
I'll be in Dallas next Monday and Tuesday and will be staying a little South of DT.  I'm looking for some recommendations for local craft breweries to hit up.

As always, thanks!

Equipment and Software / Recommendation for a barley crusher?
« on: August 14, 2013, 03:32:42 PM »
I'm looking into a barley crusher so I can buy bulk amounts of base malt, no lines at LHBS as well as set my own crush for efficiency purposes.  My equiment is the cheap and easy 10 gallon cooler and pot which does the trick for 5 gallon batches.  I brew mostly medium to high ABV beers so bills are typically 10 - 20 lbs.  Went to the LHBS this weekend and bought ingredients for two different batches.  I realized after I got home that the crush was not very good which affected my efficiency.

I've done a little research online and noticed there's quite a range of products and prices.  I wanted to get feedback on 2 vs 3 roller mills and well as brands and sellers.   I don't mind spending a little bit more for equipment if the value is there.

As always, thanks.

Traveling to Seattle for the first time on Friday and will have a day for craft beer.  Any suggestions?

Brewed a sweet stout on Saturday and used an airlock instead of a blow off tube which I should have know better not to do but anyway, came home yesterday and the lid was blown off.  I figure the top could not have been off more than 12 hrs.  The beer seemed to still be fermenting actively.  I put a clean/sanitized lid on top and sealed it back up.

Has this ever happened where the beer still turned out good or is the chance for contamination/oxidation too high?


Yeast and Fermentation / Is Mr. Malty dependable?
« on: July 17, 2012, 07:17:31 PM »
I'm brewing my first lager this weekend and wanted to run Mr. Malty's recommendations by the forum readers to make sure I'm building the best starter I can. 

Here's the info:
Beer:               Oktoberfest
O.G.:               1.058
Size:               5 gallons
Stirplate:          Yes - 2l E flask

Mr. Malty says a 1.8 liter starter with two smack packs (Wyeast Oktoberfest 2633)using a stir plate.  I'm assuming that this is the day before brewing or in the 12 to 18 hrs before pitch.

Does this look like it'll work?  I have a friend that I brew with who, for some reason, is always nervous about over pitching and always builds dinky little starters.  But based on the Mr. Malty I need 404 or so billion cells and the Wyeast packs should have 80-90 billion viable cells so I don't think I'm at risk of building too big a starter especially for a lager.


My wife and I are going to San Diego for a few days in June and I wanted to find out if there are some taprooms/brewpubs around the area that I should not miss.  Stone, PP-Carlsbad and Port Brewing are on my list so far.  I think we're there for 3 nights and my wife is really cool about beer hobby.


By the way, I'm in Boulder, CO so we get quite a few of the CA stuff but that's not going to stop me from visiting.  But if there's something around there that I've never heard of before that's really good I'd especially like to know about them.

And are there any other benefits than having a nice pretty looking clear beer?


Hey everyone.  I kegged my first beer last night and I'm pretty pumped.  It's an Irish stout that we'll be serving for St. Patty's Day.  I've done a lot of reading on this Forum and I belive have all my questions answered but wanted to summarize them here and make sure.  Here's what I have:
1) Irish Stout
2) 40 degrees in Keezer
3) in Boulder, CO at about 5,500 feet
4) pushing/carbing with beer gas 75% nitro 25% co2
5) I have a stout faucet
6) Wanting about 2 volumes of co2 (I figure if it's too much carbonation I have time to take some out)

My question is the pressure.  Looking at the carbonation chart I apply 7psi at 40 degrees for about 2 volumes, however, I read on the BA's quality manual that you add 1 psi per 2000 feet above sea level which would add about 2.75 psi for 9.75 psi pressure and since I'm 25% co2 I multiply times 4 and get 39 psi.

Is my reasoning sound here?

Also, if I leave it alone, how long should I wait to pour a pint and check it out?

As always, thanks.

I live in Colorado and have a basement where I ferment.  I've only done ale's so far and the basement temp always stays within the tempreture margin of the yeast, however, I know it fluctuates throughout the day.  Overall I've been pleased with the beers we've made.

I have an extra fridge that I can use for a fermentation chamber with the purchase of a temp control switch and I'm wondering if I can expect an improvement by fermenting my beers in there knowing I can hit and hold a specific temp.  Of course I'll have to use it for lagers but I was wondering if it would benefit the ales too.


FYI, my wife surprised me with a 4 tap keezer for christams with co2 and nitro capabilities so I really need to get to work filling up some kegs.

Equipment and Software / Is Beersmith a good tool?
« on: November 10, 2011, 06:21:46 PM »
About me:
- started brewing April of this year and made about 7 extract batches before switching to all grain
- Drinking second AG batch now, first one turned out drinkable, second one is definitely better
- 3 other AG batches are in various stges of fermentation and were kits

I just downloaded the 21 day trial version of Beersmith and it looks really cool and seems to have some great tools, especially for building your own recipes.

I wanted to know how many other brewers out there use Beersmith (or any other software package) and how much utilization/value you get out of them.


Ingredients / When to add fruit?
« on: November 07, 2011, 10:32:57 PM »
Hey everybody.

My friends and I are wanting to try making an all grain chocolate rasperry stout.  I wanted to know at what step do you add the rasperries (can you add them at some point in the boil or just in secondary or some combo) and in what manner do you add them (whole rasperries or a puree or some other way)?

As always, thank you.

Bottling got old quick.  I am about to receive a kegging system (1 corny keg, regulator, co2 tank) Now I just need to learn how to do it.  Where can I find some good information on kegging such as the proper amount of pressure for carbonating and serving, line size/length plus any other important factor that needs addressing and troubleshooting techniques?

I have a small fridge in the basement where I'll keep it so no kegerator or keezer yet.


Yeast and Fermentation / Saving the yeast cake
« on: September 28, 2011, 06:47:07 PM »
I've seem a few videos where brewers save the yeast cake from primary and use it for future batches/starters.  What are the primary benefits to this?  Also, I thought that the yeast by this time would be worn out, how does this add value to a yeast starter?

All Grain Brewing / ball valuve and thermometer on new kettle
« on: July 15, 2011, 04:10:04 PM »
I am purchasing a 40qt pot today which will allow me to make the jump from extract to all-grain and I'm pretty pumped about it.  I've already converted a cooler into a mash tun.  I'm wanting to hear some feedback on whether or not to get a thermometer and ball valve installed now.  I figure in the future it would come in handy for transfering/filtering/cooling into primary or using it as a mash tun for multi step mashing.

I'd like to hear some thoughts on this.


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