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Topics - klickitat jim

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1
General Homebrew Discussion / Here comes Spring/Summer
« on: April 13, 2018, 10:40:54 AM »
I am running out of brewing time. Busy work. Busy with "other" hobbies. About 6 weeks from fishing season. First world problems!

I have a Barleywine and an Imperial Stout ready to bottle, and two IPAs ready to keg. I'm out of base malt... feels like I'm going to be lucky to get one or two more brew days in before the summer whirlwind of "other" stuff shifts my attention away.

Brought home our new camper the other day.

2
General Homebrew Discussion / Invincible Rumors
« on: April 06, 2018, 04:33:40 AM »
Listening to a popular podcast that I really like and heard this... 'well, they say that Guinness adds old sour beer to new batches to get that sourness'. (Paraphrasing, because I'm not going to listen back for a direct transcription.  This ain't SCOTUS). I was listening along and driving along and found myself blurting out "Bull****". Not a direct quote, I didn't say "bull asterisk asterisk asterisk asterisk"

How can that rumor still be around? Who on earth really thinks Guinness would really contaminate their beer as a legit method of dropping the pH a couple tenths? I once heard an interview with a Guinness brewer who wouldn't outright deny it, but his response was something like "I heard we put a dead cow in the mash."

What's the immortal rumor that drives you nutz?

Ps, I still enjoy the show. I'm not suggesting a lynching

3
General Homebrew Discussion / Last Ditch Effort
« on: March 31, 2018, 09:19:45 PM »
For a few years I've been struggling to come up with a decent English pale ale. Either the yeast is too clean, or water too minerally, or just not lovin the hops. Always one thing or another. I'm giving it one last try.

I'm not trying to nail a particular style. Im looking for a beer that says 'hey, that's english', but is also just plain good for drinking without too much thought. I've never been to the UK, and likely never will go. I've tried several UK beers but obviously all have been shipped. I can only imagine what they are like fresh, so I'm not concerned really with trying to make a replica of a beer I've never had and never will. My top three UK beers, of the imports I've had, are Dark Island, Landlord, and London Pride, for what it's worth. Again, not trying to recreate any of those, but that's the zone I'm aiming at.

After some thought I've decided to make an 80's-90's APA (method-wise) but with UK ish ingredients.

6 gal
93% Simpson's GP
7% Thomas Faucet C45
No Sparge about 156F
Mellow water 90 SO4/30 Cl
~14°P
~5% abv
15g Target and 15g Challenger @60
30g Styrian Goldings @10
Wy1469 @ 65F with temp set at 68F
No dry hops

I'm pretty set on recipe, but you know the drill, you just have to post your brewing stuff for feedback.


4
General Homebrew Discussion / Episode 63 Everything Crafted
« on: March 30, 2018, 05:51:55 AM »
Again, Denny out of the hemisphere and Drew is busy. Here ya go fellow podcast listeners.

https://www.experimentalbrew.com/podcast/episode-63-everything-crafted-show

By the way, does anyone know a good source for paint shakers?

5
General Homebrew Discussion / Trub Shmub
« on: March 26, 2018, 10:47:39 AM »
Preface: All of this is "for me", and not to imply you're doing it wrong. And only my observations, I'm no expert.

Early this year when I was looking for unnecessary things to get rid of, I decided to ditch letting my wort settle and ditch my auto siphon, and instead, once my wort reaches pitching temp I just pump it over to the fermentor, trub and all. Someone pointed out the Brulosophy experiment that showed no significance. Well, now I have several successful batches with this trub in the fermentor method and I'm not seeing any harm.

Tonight I happened upon an experiment done last year by Stone Brewing on a commercial scale. Same beer, 1 control, and 1 with all the boil kettle trub pumped to fermentor. (Split Batch)

Analytical  (instruments)
+Trub beer was clearer than control and remained so throughout shelf life
-Trub beer had 10% reduction in yeast viability at harvest than control
+/-? Trub beer had less yeast growth than control
+/-? Trub beer measured more IBUs than control

Sensory (QC Panel)
They compared the two samples fresh, mid shelf life, and at the end of shelf life.
No difference in aroma, flavor, no preference, throughout shelf life.
Descriptors showed that the Trub beer had slightly less perceived bitterness and reduced lingering bitterness, despite the instruments showing more measured IBUs. Another data point that the IBU is junk.

Their outcome: because of added stress in their equipment and the reduction in harvested yeast viability, they decided not to carry trub over to the fermentor going forward.

So... my equipment doesnt shy away from trub, I don't harvest yeast, I like clarity, I don't like lingering bitterness, and I'm lazy and impatient at the end of the boil. So I am locking in my trub pumping ways from here on.

Hope this helps you decide what to do.
Honestly, if I were a yeast harvester, I would probably give it time to settle and keep the Trub out of my fermentor.  And if my beer had lingering bitterness, I know other ways to remedy that.

In short, to trub or not to trub is obviously not a one size fits all, right/wrong problem.

Cheers

6
General Homebrew Discussion / New Tweak With Whirlfloc/Carrageenan
« on: March 26, 2018, 07:07:18 AM »
I have always used whirlfloc at 1/2 a tab last 10 min. I've always thought it was just for gathering and settling proteins etc in the boil and didn't do much for us post boil. I cant honestly say it does much, because ive forgotten it before and still made beer that was not noticeably different.

I stumbled onto some info indicating that I might be missing out on something, especially in my whirlpooled beers. From what I understand now, it starts "working" almost immediately, and it starts to fail to work almost immediately. It tapers off. The longer it is at high temps and being moved around, the less it's able to do its job. Eventually its entirely denatured and not doing anything. Apparently the end of boil instructions are assuming you are fast chilling and settling right away.

So, given that it is soluable above 140F, and apparently time is of the essence, I'm going to try adding it when it makes the most sense. My next brew day will be a pair of whirlpooled IPAs. Hops go in and hold at 170F for 30 min. So I'm going to add the whirlfloc at the end of whirlpool. Above 140F for solubility, above 161F for pasteurization, and it will only be about 10-15 minutes before it's in the fermentor. Coincidentally this adds reason to why I choose 170F for whirlpool hops. Below significant isolmerization, but above pasteurization. Ding ding ding!

It will be interesting to see if I find a noticeable difference, and if I do, is it an improvement. Or if I just quit using it altogether.

7
In lieu of Denny being out of the hemisphere, and Drew probably busy.

Here's the link

Interesting stuff, especially if you're into German beer

www.experimentalbrew.com/podcast

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Ingredient Battles
« on: March 19, 2018, 10:55:24 AM »
It's my Friday and I work graveyard right now, so don't beat me up.

I'm sitting here enjoying a minute of home brew catharsis before calling it a day. Enjoying a glass of that double mash Imperial Stout i bottled up a couple weeks back. So, I found a je ne sais quoi in an English IPA recently, at first thought was from too much SO4. Maybe it was. But over time it kind of started hitting me as 'boiled peanut'. This RIS has been pretty enjoyable so far, the few bottles I've tried over the past couple weeks. This one tonight has something subtle I can't put my finger on. Not awful, just... hmmm. It has fuggles in it. So did the English IPA. It's probably just off taste buds on this one, because I never got it before. But im starting to wonder why I need to use fuggles, LOL.

What ingredients have you battled with?

9
General Homebrew Discussion / IMF "International Maltiness Factor"
« on: March 04, 2018, 06:38:06 AM »
I propose the IMF! International Maltiness Factor. For too long, hops have been dominating the market of "numerical defining" in beer with the ubiquitous IBU. Numerically defining water elements in ppm is a distant second. Who cares about yeast, right? I mean, you can always point to cell counting, but really... it's yeast. It actually doesn't count.

What about the mighty malt? Do we care so little that we are satisfied by simple word descriptions like 'backbone', or 'balance', or simply 'malty'. The very well trained beer nerd might stun us from time to time with descriptors like 'biscuity', or 'carmely', or 'nutty', but doesn't that just fall way short of the imperical ring of solid numbers? I say it's time! Nay, beyond time, when you can look at a beer menu and see ABV, IBU, and the IMF!

We need someone to step forward and take up this call for justice. A complex formula must be developed. How much of what kinds of grains. Each grain must first be analyzed of course, to create data points to draw from. After determining that, computations must be tested and developed to determine how those grain combinations react against all of the possible different water combinations. Then further adjustment computations to adapt to varying hop bitterness, flavors, and aromas. And finally, all of those possible outcomes must be data crunched as to how each possible yeast might effect the International Maltiness Factor at various possible fermentation temps. We would ultimately arrive at the final, indisputable, perfected IMF!

No more surprises when building a recipe! No more fretting when ordering a beer at your local pub! "How malty is the Neepa?" "Well sir, it has a balanced biscuity backbone." Bologna! Everyone needs to know exactly what they are getting, every time. With a number! Let's be honest here, if we don't have a scientifically derived number to look at, there's really no way to know precisely what maltiness we are actually tasting.

By the way, the IBU goes to 100, so I suggest that the IMF should go to 101! Though in fairness, we will never award an IMF above 100, the IMF 101 should remain sacred for only mythical beers. And we should never go below a courtesy IMF of 13.

Humbly submitted for your consideration

Perhaps once this is implemented we can finally find a decent malty beer in this country

10
General Homebrew Discussion / Too much SO4?
« on: February 20, 2018, 01:36:05 AM »
I've been playing with additions. Normally I run mine on the low side. I pushed it, for me, in a recent beer. I suspect I found out what too much CaSO4 is for me. The beer is an English IPA ish beer. I don't claim to be an expert in the style by any means. The thing I believe to be too much SO4 is a strange mineral dry thing that is mid palate. It similar to papery oxidation but not it, just throwing that out there as the most similar I can think of. Oddly, the last sip from the glass (warmed) the odd mid palate thing in lessened.

It's a 1.060 all Golden Promise, mashed low, bittered around 40 ibu with Challenger, then 50g each of EKG, Fuggles and Target 5min and dry hopped with the same. 1028 at 65f. Closed transfer (Crystal clear) to a properly purged keg. Conditioned one week in the kegerator. Water is distilled with minimal Mg, Na, and 200ppm SO4 from CaSO4. All calcium comes from gypsum, all Cl came from 2g of NaCl.  The most SO4 I have used in the past was an American IPA, with 150ppm SO4.

Other than that the beer is quite nice. Any thoughts? Am I right? Did I just find my personal limit for SO4?

11
General Homebrew Discussion / Happy Birthday Denny!
« on: February 15, 2018, 02:29:13 AM »

12
General Homebrew Discussion / Best Homebrew Labels Ever!
« on: February 15, 2018, 01:36:08 AM »
You can have a different name for each bottle!

13
General Homebrew Discussion / SN Experimental Hop 1/2 rack
« on: February 11, 2018, 02:34:24 AM »
Anyone out there try these yet?

Pils is enjoyable

The IPA is flawlessly average

I really dig the Double IPA. That hop would play nice in a funky beer. Or dang near any hoppy American style. Easy drinking base beer too, holy smoke.

14
Thought I'd move this to a new post under general brewing:

Does yeast in suspension effect a hydrometer reading?

Here is my hydrometer reading of distilled water at 68F (my hydrometer is calibrated to 68F (

And my hydrometer reading the same water immediately after dissolving about 4 grams of Fleishman dry pizza yeast. (Half the packet)

And my hydrometer reading the same water after dissolving another 4 grams into it, total of 8.

There is no sugar, there is no gas being produced. The time involved was about 3 minutes start to finish, once I got my water to exactly 68F. You can see a tiny bit of foam at the top, that's from me shaking it to mix. Naked eye in person, it was all in the top 1/4". Much like taking an FG reading of green beer that still has yeast in suspension. I don't think it's enough to lift the hydrometer 10 points

I think yeast in suspension falsely increases a hydrometer gravity reading.

15
General Homebrew Discussion / Closed transfer
« on: February 06, 2018, 07:16:30 PM »
I'm flirting with trying closed transfer. I use Speidel 30Ls. I stumbled onto these ball lock in caps with 5psi adjustable PRVs.

How are you guys cleaning and sanitizing your spigot after fermentation for transfer? I don't like the idea of running 5 gallons through a wild inoculation

How do you know when you have the keg properly filled? I'm looking at some color change tape for the side of the keg, but don't know if it changes between room temp  (keg) and 32-35° (incoming beer)


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