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Topics - trapae

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General Homebrew Discussion / Cryo Hops, more varieties?
« on: November 18, 2017, 12:43:52 PM »
 Anyone out there who has links to some of the hop growers know if more varieties of cryo- hops are coming on the market soon? Denny? Just wondering. Very interested in trying these for whirlpool and dry hopping but would really like if some other varieties were available.   I’m willing to wait a while, but if none are coming anytime soon I’m just going to write some new recipes with what’s available.

General Homebrew Discussion / Black IPA/CDA on nitro?
« on: November 11, 2017, 06:11:13 PM »
Just wanted some opinions on if anyone has done this and if it worked out well. I’m Making a black IPA soon and thought I put it on my nitro tap. If the taste doesn’t work out I can just put it on CO2 but wanted to give a try. Has anyone done this?

Equipment and Software / Cleaning my pump, mold.
« on: November 11, 2017, 02:13:51 PM »
 For those of you who don’t take apart your brewpump and clean it post brew, you may want to reconsider.   Since  purchasing the pump (which incidentally is one of the best buys I’ve made for my brewhouse),  i’ve always taken the head off and cleaned the impeller and parts, let them air dry before putting it back together every time.   This last brew about a month ago, I just ran PBW cleaning solution through it for a while and then put it away without taking it apart because I was buying a new impeller and knew I would take it apart soon anyway.  Well today I just took it apart to put the new impeller on, and there was a bunch of mold growing on the inside.  I wouldn’t have had any idea if I hadn’t taken it apart. Probably would’ve been OK running boiling work through it the last 10 minutes of the boil but I still wouldn’t want that stuff in my beer. Just FYI.

General Homebrew Discussion / Black IPA, Citra and Mosaic?
« on: November 08, 2017, 10:48:52 PM »
 I have never made a black IPA, but will be brewing one soon. I was going to do something close to the Wookie Jack clone which uses Citra and Amarillo.  I wanted to try whirlpool and dry hopping with cryo-hops however and can’t find Amarillo Cryo Hops, so I want to to substitute Mosaic. Does anyone have an opinion on using Citra with mosaic in this type of beer? Or would it be to tropical citrus? Thanks.

General Homebrew Discussion / Who filters and why, why not?
« on: November 05, 2017, 08:18:51 AM »
 In the recent BYO there was an article about filtering. I have never thought or cared about it that much but it would be additional toy to play with and in that article it stated that unfiltered beer can suffer from decreased shelflife? I do care about that.
 So excluding New England IPAs, hefes, and wits, I was wondering you all‘s opinion on filtering and why? Can a decrease hop flavor? Does it increase shelflife?

General Homebrew Discussion / Dry hopping in the keg questions ?
« on: October 27, 2017, 07:40:25 AM »
 I’m thinking about doing this and just wondering peoples’ techniques and experiences? I know some people leave it in the entire life of the keg and some people take it out. Just wondering what people do, and if you experience any of flavors, vegetal?   And how the flavor is different from normal dry hopping?

All Grain Brewing / Water chemistry and length of primary fermentation?
« on: October 25, 2017, 09:06:39 PM »
Can using proper water chemistry and mash pH affect length of early active fermentaion?  Reason I ask is that this current brew is the 1st time I’ve adjusted water chemistry and mash pH (as opposed to just mashing/brewing with spring water)—and I noticed that the first 3days of fermentation were more vigorous, and then the bubbling dropped off to almost nothing by day five. Normally, it is pretty vigorous but steadily bubbles for over a week then slowly drops off.  Nothing else  has changed in my recipe or bring practices.   Just wondering if it has to do with the correct water or mash pH? 

My first brew adjusting water chemistry utterly failed.
Short version: inputted everything into Bru’n Water supporters program using distilled water and building up to a yellow dry profile with an estimated mash pH of 5.41. PH turned out to be 5.73 at 10 minutes and 24 minutes.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Here’s the detailed version:

Sparge acidification: I set to distilled water with percent dilution 100%. Set diluted water pH and starting pH of 6.5 as instructed.

Grain bill input:  13 pounds 5.4 ounces row pale (rahr so added 3L as instructions say)=4.8L. Carmel 40L at 9.2 ounces, Cara-pills 9.2 ounces 1.5L.  This gave me water ratio of 1.66 with SRM 9 .1 and estimated room temperature mash pH of 5.41 (after water adjustment next).

Water adjustment:  Set to distilled water at dilution 100%. I used yellow dry profile and got close with overall finished profile of: calcium=52, magnesium=9, sodium=5, Sulfate=102, chloride=50, bicarbonate=NA.
To get this I added the following to my 6 gallons of mash/strike water:  gypsum 2.7g, calcium chloride 1.5g, Epsom salts 2.1g, canning salt 0.3g.
I have a accurate gram measuring scale.

Calibrated my new Milwaukee ph56 meter 6 hr prior.
Started mash, hit mash temperature of 154°.
Sample from top of mash-10 minutes. Cool to room temperature=5.73!
At this time paper pH strip said around 5 to 5.2.
Second sample after stirring from middle of mash – 24m, RTemp=5.73!
Tested probe on 4.01ph calibrating solution and it is accurate.
PH tested my pre-adjusted distilled water=6.34.
PH tested the Springwater I’ve been using for 10 years=8.11.

Since ph is still technically in range for a drinkable beer, hope it won’t affect it too much.
Funny, I’ve made this beer numerous times and I think it is quite good without any tannins or off-flavors. Looking at the pH of the spring water I used to use, (and the pH strips on previous brews said 5.6 as opposed of 5-5.2 on the current brew) I’m thinking the prior mash PHs were very high.

I have no idea what went wrong. Hoping I’m just missing some small input in Bru’n Water.

A lot of information I know, thanks in advance for any input.

All Grain Brewing / Sparge water pH question on Bru’n water.
« on: October 18, 2017, 10:22:09 PM »
Trudging my way through my first Brewing water chemistry course for an IPA brew day this Friday.   Hoping someone who is used the program and knows the chemistry can help me out.  I’m using 100% distilled water as my base in building from there.  The program states that the pH of distilled water is about 6.5.  I have gotten my mash pH to 5.35 with mineral additions and my Grainbill which seems right.  On the sparge acidification page,  my water pH is 6.5 ( distilled ) but the target pH for Sparge is 5.5.  Output section and adjustment summary does not say to add any lactic acid to the Sparge. (final water alkalinity says -0.5 ).   Is that OK? Do I not need to lower the pH of this sparge? 

All Grain Brewing / Bru,n water question
« on: October 16, 2017, 12:48:44 PM »
 Finally trying to get my head around water chemistry after a decade.  Playing with Martin’s program and have a quick question. I batch Sparge. Are usually start at 8.5 gallons pre-boil volume for my IPA. Typically strike with 6 gallons. I try to get out about 4.25 gallons. While I am mashing I heat about 5gal of sparge water,  and then just adjust depending on how much I get out of my first runnings. Sometimes I pour off a gallon and sparge with 4g, sometimes 4.25g, depending on my first runnings volume.   So the question is, on the water adjustments page I would put mash volume of 6g, but would I then put Sparge volume of 5g and do the additions with the whole 5 gallons even knowing I would possibly only use 4 gallons? Or does that throw off of the calculations?

Equipment and Software / CIP setup burned out motor?
« on: September 29, 2017, 07:03:41 AM »

I bought a Cip ball to clean in place my conical fermenter. Got all the tubes etc. Got a 1/5 hp sump pump as well as a bucket heater to heat the liquid PBW. Things were going great on the test run and I was running hot PBW through the CIP ball/fermenter. Decided to do a 30 minute trial and did some other things. At 15 minutes my pump stopped. Went over and looked and it was completely burned out. The water temperature was 140. After a little research it turns out the sump pump max temperature is about 120. So question is, aside from buying a expensive nano pump, how are people running hot cleaner through their CIP without burning out their pumps?

General Homebrew Discussion / Vinyl tubing smell question
« on: September 28, 2017, 05:27:58 PM »
 Probably a newbie question, but does the vinyl tubing smell rub off and affect beer taste.   I just set up a cleaning in place ball for the top of my conical fermenter.   Using a sump pump to get enough pressure and because of that I decided to go with braided vinyl  tubing from the pump to the CIP ball.   Then to get a big enough outflow I also used 1 inch vinyl tubing coming out of the bottom.   The vinyl rubber smell is pretty bad and I just want to make sure that I won't somehow transfer to my conical.

 For a little while now, I've noticed a whitish film on the underside/inner portion of the lid of my dome of my stainless steel fermenter.  The rest of my fermenters still shiny and new looking.   The part under the dome I don't think even comes in contact with wort or probably even the Krausen.   Anyway it is getting worse and I'm wondering if it is due to my hard Water or beer stone.   Scrubbing with hot PBW has not worked. ( although I have only used a micro brush scrubber because I'm worried to scratch. ). My normal sanitation with star San has not removed it.    Up until now I have been worried to use anything else or do any serious scrubbing because I don't want to damage the stainless steel underneath. I'm not sure what type of scrub brushes are safe for the stainless steel without scratching it.   I was planning on using undiluted star San next.  Not sure if  barkeepers friend is safe to use on the stainless steel of the fermenter? Anyone have a good system for removing this that won't  damage my fermenter? Thanks.

General Homebrew Discussion / Cleaning fermenter?
« on: September 12, 2017, 01:19:18 PM »
 I just bought a CIP spray ball for my conical fermenter and have been doing to research on how people typically clean the fermenters. I have always just cleaned it very well with PBW by hand, then rinsed it with water, let it air dry and then put it to bed.  Then of course prior to putting cooled wort in during the next brew, sanitize it (starsan) immediately prior to filling.   To my knowledge I've never had an infection.
 Reading how a lot of people use their CIP spray ball, seems like after washing with PBW, they sanitize it prior to storing it. Then sanitize it again during Brewing. Am I missing something here? Seems like the sanitizing step directly after cleaning is a waste of time?

General Homebrew Discussion / My new hydra chiller
« on: August 21, 2017, 01:35:43 PM »
 Just used my new hydra chiller for the first time and wow.   It is a sunny Southern California day aside from the eclipse, and the ground water temperature here is about 75° by the beach. I was able to get my wort temperature from boiling to about 80° In about five minutes.  And then threw 10 pounds of ice into a bucket with my pre-chiller and got it down to 65° very quickly. Unbelievable.   Very very happy with this purchase.  Cuts down on brew day time as well as ice.  If I lived somewhere where the ground water temperature was lower, the Hydra would be all that I would need.

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