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Topics - trapae

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1
All Grain Brewing / How well do you clean your mash tun?
« on: January 14, 2015, 10:44:52 PM »
Reading the recent Teflon and PBW thread got me thinking.  I am meticulous about cleaning my kettle, immersion chiller, pump and lines, and fermenter.  But, when it comes to my cooler style mash tun, I just rinse it out, dry it and store it. I guess I feel that everything that comes out of it gets boiled anyway so I'm not that meticulous about cleaning the cooler or soaking it with cleanser. Am I making a big mistake here that I'm not thinking about?

2
All Grain Brewing / Interesting hop experiment on basic brewing podcast
« on: January 09, 2015, 02:43:38 PM »
I just listened to the 7–10–14 hopping technique experiment on basic brewing podcast and it was pretty interesting.  It was part two of the hopping experiment where the guys, in conjunction with bells brewing, did mash hopping, first wort hopping, and 60 minute hopping with everything else being equal.  They then did a blind taste test as well as calculated IBUs and measured IBUs.  Part two of the experiment was the exact same but they doubled the hops in all cases.  (Cascades).  Most of the tasters felt that the 60 minute and first wort hopped beers were very similar in bitterness and hop flavor (specifically, none of them felt that the FWH was any smoother), where the mash hopped beer was very mild and smooth.  The Lab measured IBUs showed that the highest was first wort hopping, followed closely by 60 minute hopping, with the mash hopped beers less than half of the other two.  The measured IBUs in all cases was also significantly lower than what have been calculated in the recipe (almost half).  On round two when they doubled the hops findings were similar.  Lots of interesting food for thought.  Of course as Denny always says though, personal experience and taste is most important.

3
I've been browsing through his book and in the back he gives all of his recipes.  I find it very odd that he states that they ferment at 72°.  In my thinking, that seems pretty high.  I can't think of any homebrewer's that I know who ferments above 70 and most like to stay around 65°.  Maybe it has to do with the volume that they use or perhaps turnaround time?

4
Kegging and Bottling / Regular Column tower vs "T" towed on kegerator?
« on: December 25, 2014, 10:57:33 PM »
I am going to upgrade from 2 to 3 faucets and just wondering if anyone has any experience/opinions about a T tower vs a regular column tower?
Thanks

5
All Grain Brewing / Mash temperature and final gravity
« on: December 21, 2014, 09:53:26 AM »
I've always wondered this but have not done the experiment to find out. I'm sure some of you have. I understand that mash temperature will select for non-fermentable versus more fermentable sugars. But will this actually affect final gravity points or just mouth feel? For instance if I brew the exact same recipe on the exact same equipment and mash one batch at 148deg and one batch at 158, will the final gravity points be significantly different?

6
All Grain Brewing / Critique my IPA recipe
« on: December 10, 2014, 09:48:32 PM »
Hello friends, I'm going to brew a recipe that I've made several times and really enjoy, but I have changed it a little bit to include hopstand/whirlpool hopping since I just got a new whirlpool set up on my chiller.  I would love some suggestions or opinions.  Specifically, I don't know the amounts that people usually whirlpool with, also I don't know if the flameout hops are necessary since I will be cooling quickly to 175 and then dumping in a bunch more hops?  Also, the flameout hops and the whirlpool hops do not contribute to the IBU totals given below.  Thanks

Batch Size: 5.85 gal   
Style: American IPA (14B)
Boil Size: 8.00 gal
Color: 6.2 SRM   
Bitterness: 65.8 IBUs   
Boil Time: 60 min
Est OG: 1.065
Est FG: 1.012
ABV: 6.9%   
Mash 60 @ 152


12 lbs 8.0 oz   Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
1 lbs 4.0 oz   Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM)
5.0 oz   Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM)
0.8 oz   Chinook [14.0%] - Boil 60 min
1.0 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 15 min   
0.5 oz   Chinook [13.0%] - Boil 15 min
1.00     Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15 min)
0.5 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 7 min
0.5 oz   Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.0%] - Boil 7 min   
0.5 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 0 min
0.5 oz   Chinook [13.0%] - Boil 0 min
0.5 oz   Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.0%] - Boil 0 min   
At flameout, cool quickly to 175 and then whirlpool hop for 30 minutes:
2.5 oz   Centennial - whirlpool hop for 30 min
1.0 oz   Chinook - whirlpool hop for 30 min
0.5 oz   Columbus - whirlpool hop for 30 min
Starter   American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056)
2.0 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Dry Hop
1.0 oz   Chinook [13.0%] - Dry Hop

7
General Homebrew Discussion / Hopstand/whirlpool hopping question/survey
« on: December 02, 2014, 08:24:18 AM »
Question for those of you who've gone from making a hoppy beer in the traditional way, to using whirlpool or hop stand hopping----does anyone not like the taste effect and go back to the "traditional" way of adding hops at 20, 15, 10, five minutes etc.  Is there some complexity that is lost when you hop stand?
Just interested, i'm getting ready to do my first IPAA using my new whirlpool set up.

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Decanting yeast starters?
« on: November 22, 2014, 01:04:50 PM »
Just wondering how many of you always decant your yeast starters before pitching them versus throwing the whole thing right in? I always time my starters to where I have it done the night before Brewday so I can throw it in the fridge overnight. Sometimes it's a pain in the ass to time it like that though.  I figure on something like a Stout or Porter it might not make that much difference.  What say you all.?

9
For those who hopstand/whirlpool hops, who uses only bittering plus whirlpool, vs bittering, other boil additions plus whirlpool, and why?

10
Kegging and Bottling / Keg beer line survey
« on: July 03, 2014, 11:09:54 PM »
I have had a kegerator for a couple years now and have always had a hard time with too fast a pour and foam for my desired PSI ( with the standard 5foot beer lines that came with the kegerator ).  I have read all the websites and formulas which always calculate out to about 5foot or less.  I recently found some older posts that state that those formulas are more for commercial units/bars and that most home brewers use about 10' of 3/16 tubing for their kegerator/keezer to get a good slow pour for desired PSI.  I just ordered a bunch of beer line tubing and was wondering what length most people are using?
What say you all?

11
All Grain Brewing / Hopstand/whirlpool recipe advice
« on: June 30, 2014, 08:32:15 PM »
I am trying to write a easy drinking pale ale recipe for my new pump/hopstand upgrade and would welcome any advice.  It is a kind of a blend of a Biermuncher's Kona pale ale and Patrick Henry pale ale (Chris Colby's), but with whirlpool hopping.  Never done a hopstand/whirlpool before and hoping this will give me some good flavor and aroma.  IBUs were calculated using beersmith.
Thanks


Batch Size: 5.85 gal   Style: American Pale Ale (10A)
Boil Size: 8.00 gal
Color: 6.4
Bitterness: 37.1 IBUs   Boil Time: 60 min
Est OG: 1.055 (13.5° P)
Est FG: 1.013 SG (3.3° P)
ABV: 5.6%   

Ingredients
Amount   Name   Type   #
9 lbs 8.5 oz   Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM)
1 lbs 1.0 oz   Munich Malt (9.0 SRM)
8.5 oz   Honey Malt (25.0 SRM)
4.2 oz   Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)
0.3 oz   Magnum [14.0%] - Boil 60 min
0.5 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 20 min   
0.50     Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 5 min)
0.5 oz   Amarillo Gold [8.5%] - Steep 30 min
1.2 oz   Cascade [5.5%] - Steep 30 min
Starter   German Ale/Kolsch (White Labs #WLP029)
0.8 oz   Cascade [5.5%] - Dry Hop 4 days
0.5 oz   Amarillo Gold [8.5%] - Dry Hop 4 days

Mash 154 for 60 min

12
All Grain Brewing / Head retention advice
« on: June 26, 2014, 01:29:16 PM »
So my head retention sucks. Been brewing a couple years now and doing all grain for the last year. Now that most of what I think are the more important things are falling into place, I'm looking towards getting better head retention. Most of my IPAs and pale ales have poor head retention even though I use a lot of hops. I realize I am mostly mashing low at 150 to 152.  (I keg my beers).  I don't want to get into the carapils debate because I have read that a lot of people passionately hate using carapils for head retention alone.  Anyway, I was wondering if using some flaked barley in beers like a pale ale or IPA is an option. I love the head I get on my stout due to flaked barley (and Nitro).  Or does this give a mouth feel or other taste that would be completely out of place in the style? Any opinions?

13
General Homebrew Discussion / Hop whirlpooling advice
« on: June 19, 2014, 04:02:19 PM »
So I just upgraded my system by adding a chugger pump and a whirlpool arm to my immersion chiller and want to try my house IPA using whirlpool hopping.  I'm not sure what is the best way to convert my recipe.  I tried just moving ALL of the hop additions (except bittering) to whirlpool (using beersmith) but the IBUs came out to >100.   Anyone have some good advice on the best way to do it?
The recipe is as follows:

Batch Size: 5.50 gal   Style: American IPA (14B)
Boil Size: 7.89 gal   Style Guide: BJCP 2008
Color: 7.6 SRM   Equipment: BTD-5.5
Bitterness: 66.5 IBUs   Boil Time: 60 min
Est OG: 1.064 (15.6° P)   Mash Profile: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge
Est FG: 1.015 SG (3.8° P)   Fermentation: Conical
ABV: 6.5%   

Ingredients
Amount   Name   Type   #

12 lbs 4.0 oz   Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
1 lbs 8.0 oz   Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM)
9.6 oz   Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM)   
0.7 oz   Magnum [14.0%] - Boil 60 min
0.5 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 15 min
0.5 oz   Chinook [13.0%] - Boil 15 min
1.00      Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15 min)
0.4 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 10 min
0.4 oz   Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.0%] - Boil 10 min
0.5 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 5 min
0.5 oz   Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.0%] - Boil 5
0.5 oz   Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.0%] - Boil 0 min   
0.5 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 0 min
0.5 oz   Chinook [13.0%] - Boil 0 min
2 pkgs   American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056)-starter
2.0 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Dry Hop 4 days
0.6 oz   Chinook [13.0%] - Dry Hop 4 days

Mash 152 for 60min

Thanks

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Hop storage/use
« on: June 13, 2014, 08:45:57 PM »
Just wondering how long you guys will use stored hops if they have been vacuum sealed and kept in the freezer?

15
All Grain Brewing / batch sparge process/volumes
« on: June 01, 2014, 05:43:10 PM »
Denny and others please chime in...

So I've done about 10 all grain batch sparge brews now and all went well until my last debacle where I mashed way too thin that I extracted tannins and screwed up the entire batch.  Made me do more research and rethink my process.  I think my process had no issues before because I've never made any beer with OG less that 1.060.

My process up to now has been this:
-Calculate my strike water volume (taking into account MT dead space and grain absorption) so my 1st runnings are about 1/2 of my preboil volume.   Vorlauf.
-Measure my 1st runnings, subtract from pre boil volume, and sparge with a volume that should be about 1/2 of pre boil volume. (temp about 190, after it is in MT it is about 167).  Vorlauf, collect.
-Start the boil, laugh, have a beer and make some beer.

I do take a ph of the mash and it has always been between 5.1 and 5.3.  I never really worried about quarts/lb ratio.
Now I realize that with weaker beers, the ratio matters.  I haven't really gotten into water chemistry yet, but I read that you don't want to go over 2q/lb for ph reasons in the mash.  Is there a similar rule for amount of sparge water?  I think I read somewhere Yooper said don't go over 3q/lb in the sparge. 

For instance, I am brewing tomorrow and the total grain wt is 8.75lb.  My pre boil volume is 8gal.  My old way would say I loose 1.34gal to absorption and MT dead space so my strike would be 5.34gal.  1st runnings would be 4gal.  I would sparge with 4 gal, and get my 8 gallons pre boil.  But that is about 2.45q/lb, and now I worry about ph problems, tannin extraction....

So should I:

Strike with 4.25gal (about 1.8q/lb), get about 2.9gal 1st runnings, then sparge with about 5 gal?  Or is 5 gal sparge for 8.75lb too thin?

Or:

Strike with 4.25gal (about 1.8q/lb), add about 1gal of 190deg water to MT (top off/mashout?), then get about 4gal 1st runnings, and sparge with 4 gal to get total pre boil volume?

Damn, this tannin thing has me upset.

thanks

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