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Topics - trapae

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General Homebrew Discussion / No bitter addition?
« on: August 01, 2016, 07:51:47 PM »
 I'm sure some of you have done this and I was wondering how the beer turned out? I'm thinking of doing either my IPA, my house Pale ale, or my every day everyone pleaser Blonde ale with no bittering addition and just increasing the late additions to get the same IBUs that the recipe calls for.   Does the beer lose complexity? More flavor? What do y'all think.

All Grain Brewing / Calculated versus lab measured ABV and IBU.
« on: July 20, 2016, 12:00:54 PM »
I finally sent my beer away to the lab to have the real ABV and IBU values measured to compare to my calculated values.   I thought some may find it interesting.

ABV:   Calculated (refractometer/hydrometer)= 7.2%, Lab measured = 7.6%
IBU:   Calculated (BeerSmith) = 65,  Lab measured = 78

 I thought the ABV discrepancy was significant but the lab told me that was actually pretty close and that a lot of commercial Brewers or farther off in this.
 As far as the IBU calculation, I whirlpool at 175 and haven't been adding any IBUs for the whirlpool hop additions, but maybe I should back-calculate and start adding a small percentage for this.  Also thinking about it, I may move my flameout additions to whirlpool since I think they're essentially the same thing when cooling quickly to 175.

Here's the recipe if anyone is interested.

Batch Size: 6.33 gal   
Style: American IPA (14B)
Boil Size: 8.50 gal
Color: 6.2 SRM
Bitterness: 65.0 IBUs   
Boil Time: 60 min
Est OG: 1.065 (15.8° P)
Est FG: 1.014 SG (3.6° )
ABV: 6.7%

Amount   Name   Type   #
1 tbs    Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60 min)
14 lb         Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
9.6 oz   Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)
9.6 oz   Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM)
0.70 oz   Chinook [13.0%] - Boil 60 min
0.80 oz   El Dorado [15.0%] - Boil 15 min
0.45 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 15 min
0.30 oz   Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.5%] - Boil 15 min
1.             Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15 min)
1.00 tsp   Yeast Nutrient (Boil 15 min)
0.50 oz   Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.5%] - Boil 7 min
0.30 oz   El Dorado [15.0%] - Boil 7 min
0.20 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 7 min
0.80 oz   Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.5%] - Boil 0 min
0.50 oz   El Dorado [15.0%] - Boil 0 min
0.30 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 0 min

At flameout, cool quickly to 175 and then whirlpool hop for 30 minutes: 1.75 oz Centennial 2.25 oz El Dorado 0.5 oz Columbus Mash 60 @ 150

starter   California Ale (White Labs #WLP001)

 I'm thinking about finally switching from using from immersion chillers ( first one goes through an ice bath to the second one that is in my kettle ) to a counterflow chiller.   Currently I put my immersion chiller in the last 15 minutes of the boil to sanitize it and run my pump the last 15 minutes as well and circulated boiling wort back through a whirlpool arm I have attached to my chiller.
 So if I do away with my kettle immersion chiller,  I would place a whirlpool port/arm into the bottom of my kettle.   And here's what I'm thinking:  The last 15 minutes of the boil I will run boiling wort from my kettle to my pump and through the CFC and then back through the whirlpool port in the kettle to sanitize everything. I will have a three-way valve  coming out of the CFC so after flameout and after whirlpooling step when I'm ready to fill my fermenter, I just turn of the three-way valve the other way and fill the fermenter.

 Question is:
1.   I'm worried that running boiling wort through my pump, the CFC, and back will dissipate so much heat that I will have a hard time keeping the boil up. I do use natural gas though. Does anyone do this and have any experience?
2.   I often use a large amount of pellet hops especially in whirlpool. I usually just throw the hops right into the kettle and do not use a spider or bag. Has anyone had any major problems with the CFC clogging?
3.   Any other better ideas for my system or anyone have a great way to do all this?


 Just wondering if anyone knows the answer to this. I keg my beers and there is a definite change in hop character that occurs  throughout the beers life, but does the actual IBU change from say first tapping the keg until the last pint?

General Homebrew Discussion / Hops between 60 and 20 min?
« on: July 05, 2016, 05:25:52 AM »
Is there any good reason to boil hops between 60 and 20 min?  Seems like it wastes IBUs on one end and flavor on the other? 

All Grain Brewing / Mosaic question for my recipe
« on: July 03, 2016, 11:05:27 PM »
This week I am going to brew an easy drinking summer blonde ale that I've brewed before but I want to sub the 2 late cascade additions (20 and 5min) with mosaic (which I've never used before).  Question is, since mosaic alphas are about twice cascades, and I want to keep same IBUs,  Do I:
1.  Cut both mosaic additions to 0.12oz and keep all else the same, or
2.  Keep mosaic additions same as cascades 0.25oz, and decrease the 60min centennial to keep the same IBU?

I hear mosaic is quite strong, but I don't know if 0.12oz x 2 is enough to contribute any significant taste.
Below is the recipe for reference.

Thanks in advance,

Batch Size: 5.85 gal
Boil Size: 8.00 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
Color: 3.6 SRM   
Bitterness: 23.4 IBUs
Est OG: 1.040
Est FG: 1.008
ABV: 4.3%

Amount   Name
7 lbs.         Pale Malt (2 Row)
12.00 oz   Cara-Pils/Dextrine
8.00 oz   Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L
8.00 oz   Vienna Malt
0.30 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 60 min
0.30 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 35 min
0.25 oz   Cascade [5.5%] - Boil 20 min
1.10            Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15 min)
0.25 oz   Cascade [5.5%] - Boil 5 min
2 pkgs   California Ale (White Labs #WLP001)

Yeast and Fermentation / IPA length of fermentation question
« on: May 31, 2016, 03:49:01 PM »
 I brewed an IPA couple weeks ago (OG=1.064, IBU=65, no dry hopping but large 30 minute whirlpool edition),  and have a small dilemma.   I always ferment my IPAs for four weeks. I usually dump trub after about two weeks and cold crash the last three or four days.   Due to summer vacation to Ireland,  I will either have to keg right at three weeks, or at 5 1/2 weeks.  It has already reached final gravity. Any opinions on which to choose?   Not sure it really matters since it will condition in the keg but want to make sure the yeast has time to clear up everything.

 We all worry about and go through all the painstaking measures to stay sterile,  and I'm just wondering how many of us have actually gotten a batch infected to the point where you had to throw it out?
 I remember my second batch was a two hearted clone before I went to all grain and I ended up throwing it out. Not sure what happened but I was so new could've been anything at that point.   Now my wife makes fun of me because after flameout, I put on a hairnet, close all the doors in the garage, sweat my balls off and act like I'm in a surgical suite until I close up the fermenter.

Equipment and Software / Chugger pump cleaning update/advice
« on: May 20, 2016, 11:18:33 AM »
I just finished my 15th batch using my chugger pump.   Prior to buying it I did a lot of online trolling research on how to clean the thing and a decent amount of people just said run PBW through it followed by clean water.   Just wanted to say that I have taken mine apart every batch to clean it (because I'm super anal) after running PBW and water through it, and not once has it been perfectly clean. I have always found hops etc. in nooks and crannies.  Just my two cents.   
--I love the pump by the way, it is saved my back. I use it to transfer all of my fluids throughout the whole brew day.   Really good addition.

Kegging and Bottling / Anyone used this keg volume indicator?
« on: May 19, 2016, 03:31:06 PM »
 Just wondering if anyone has  used this keg volume indicator and if so,  any opinions?

Ingredients / Hop storage lifespan ?
« on: May 16, 2016, 08:52:37 PM »
 For those of you who vacuum seal your hops and keep them in the freezer like I do, what's the longest that you will still use your hops after being stored?

All Grain Brewing / Bittering with chinook question
« on: May 14, 2016, 08:48:05 AM »
In theory I know the answer to this but wanted some experienced advice.

I usually use magnum for bittering addition for my IPAs.  I wanted to try bittering with chinook this time and wondering what the difference will be everything else being equal.  Specifically, will there be any taste difference (increased pine?) or just a different (less mellow) bitter.


All Grain Brewing / Drying out my IPA grain bill question.
« on: May 11, 2016, 03:10:22 PM »
 I have been doing my most recent IPAs with a Grain bill consisting of some Munich as follows: 89% 2 row pale, 8%  Munich, 3% Crystal 45.   So kindalike an English IPA malt bill.

My wife and I got a hold of some Pliney and liked it quite a bit. She wanted to see if I could brew our IPA with the dry Pliney bill (great wife)-- which I found to be 87% 2 row, 4% Crystal 45, 4% carapills, and 5% dextrose.

Question is, my IPA is only about 1.065 OG and usually ends up with a final gravity around 1.010-1.011 anyway.   So I was thinking to ignore the dextrose and do 92% 2 row, 4% Crystal 45, and 4% carapills to go for a similar taste without having to use dextrose. Any opinions? Also add what OG to most people need/use dextrose to dry it out.


All Grain Brewing / Summer orange blonde advice
« on: July 19, 2015, 12:05:03 PM »
 I 've brewed a centennial blonde recipe a couple times for summer and it has been very well received.   ( on the recipe below I exchanged cascade for lemon drop hops which I've never tried before.). I wanted to give it a try with some orange zest and coriander and see how it turns out however I don't want it to be too sweet.  Anyone have any advice at changing or decreasing the Crystal or Vienna if I add 1.5 ounces of fresh orange zest in five minutes and .5 ounce coriander in five minutes?

Batch Size: 5.85 gal
Boil Size: 8.00 gal   
Color: 3.5 SRM   
Bitterness: 24.0 IBUs
Est OG: 1.040
Est FG: 1.008 SG
ABV: 4.2%   

Amount   Name   Type   #
7 lbs.        Pale Malt (2 Row) US
10.0 oz   Cara-Pils/Dextrine
8.0 oz   Caramel/Crystal Malt - 15L
8.0 oz   Vienna Malt
0.3 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 60 min   
0.3 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 35 min
0.2 oz   Lemon drop [4.5%] - Boil 20 min   
1          Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15 min
0.2 oz   Lemon drop [4.5%] - Boil 5 min
2 pkgs   California Ale (White Labs #WLP001)

All Grain Brewing / How well do you clean your mash tun?
« on: January 14, 2015, 10:44:52 PM »
Reading the recent Teflon and PBW thread got me thinking.  I am meticulous about cleaning my kettle, immersion chiller, pump and lines, and fermenter.  But, when it comes to my cooler style mash tun, I just rinse it out, dry it and store it. I guess I feel that everything that comes out of it gets boiled anyway so I'm not that meticulous about cleaning the cooler or soaking it with cleanser. Am I making a big mistake here that I'm not thinking about?

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