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Topics - dcbc

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Classifieds / Parting out a Brutus 10 System -SOLD
« on: February 27, 2018, 02:37:10 PM »
Changing from my Rig for Sale Posts to Parts only.

The amount in parenthesis is for shipping, which I'm guessing is less than what it actually will cost me to ship any of this. But since I am open to considering reasonable offers, I want to exclude a small amount to get the stuff from me to you. I accept paypal.

Brew Stand with casters $500 (pickup only)

Kettles (The two 20 gallon kettles are the triclad bottom kettles from  The 15 gallon kettle is from Morebeer).

20 Gallon Kettle with Whirlpool Return Arm, ball valve, and diverted wort pickup. $200 ($25)

20 Gallon Mash Tun with false bottom, valve, thermometer, flexible return arm and return port $250 ($25)

15 Gallon HLT, ball valve and threaded insert for thermometer $175 ($20)

High Efficiency March Pump 815  $100 ($10)

Morebeer Convoluted Copper Counter Flow Chiller $125 ($10)

(3) 20 Tip Natural Gas Wok Burners $20 each

Lots of 1/2" stainless ball valves and fittings (make offer)

Silicone hoses with QD fittings or just the QDs (make offer)

Blichmann Controllers (SOLD)

Equipment and Software / Accounting for Water Under a False Bottom
« on: February 22, 2012, 07:28:17 PM »
I just revamped my system and went from a 70 qt Coleman Xtreme with a Bazooka screen to a 20 Gallon Kettle with a false bottom.  In ironing out the bugs of which I became aware on my inaugural brew, figured out that the false bottom sits about 2.25" above the bottom of the kettle, which amounts to roughly 2  gallons of strike water that isn't in contact with any of the grist until I begin to recirculate (usually about half way through the mash or later). 

For a 10 gallon batch with a grain bill in the low to mid  20 lb range, I mash in with 9 gallons of water and batch sparge.  When I did this on my first batch on the new system, my mash temp came in low and the water to grist ratio was way thick.  I added about 1.5 gallons of boiling water to get my mash temp up and extended my rest by 30 minutes.  In the end, all was well, but it is obvious that I need to account for this.

So my plan is to simply add 2 gallons of water to my strike water, adjust my mineral and/or acid additions to the mash based on the total gallons of strike water, i.e. 11 gallons, but treat my water to grist ratio and strike water temperature calculation as if I were only using 9 gallons of water since the grain isn't going to come into contact with any of that water beneath the false bottom until I recirculate, and, presumably, at that point, most, if not all of my conversion is complete.  I would reduce my sparge water volume by the 2 gallons I added to the strike water.  Does this sound like I'm on the right track?

Alternatively, I could always rig up a bazooka screen to my kettle dip tube and eliminate all of this adjustment.  If I went this route, has anyone run into issues recirculating/transferring with a pump using a bazooka screen in a mash tun?

Pimp My System / Brew Stand 3.0
« on: February 11, 2012, 02:48:32 PM »
I suppose I should post a few pictures to show you all why I'm selling my totally awesome 3 tier folding brew stand (shameless plug).

This is Brew Stand 3.0.  I don't weld and I shy away from gas plumbing.  The beauty of these shortcomings is that this took the local professional welder five days of working on it in between projects to get it done.  Dropped off the plans last Friday, approved the estimate on Monday, stopped by for as many add-ons and "oh, can you do this, too" items as I could think of, and had the stand back at 12:30 p.m. yesterday.  Dropped it by a good plumber on my way back to the office, and had it back with gas lines in an hour.  Nearly killed myself getting it out of the truck without assistance (it weighs about 200+ lbs), but it's safe and sound in its new home in the garage.  It still needs paint, which may happen tomorrow.  After that, I'll bolt up the casters, pump, CFC, and get some plumbing fittings on order. 

Here are a couple of shots.

Classifieds / SOLD - 3 Tier Folding Brewing Stand
« on: February 07, 2012, 07:58:13 PM »
I have owned this stand for about 3 years.  I designed it to be a folding 3 tier structure because I needed something that I could store in the corner of my garage.  I had a local welder construct this stand to my specifications out of 1.5" x .0125" thick angle iron steel.  I later had that same welder modify the stand by widening it to accommodate a larger kettle on the bottom tier and add a second folding shelf to use as a work station (the welds to widen the stand are visible in the middle of the frame).  It has been a fantastic brewing tool.  However, I recently was able to free up some garage space and have that same welder building me a single tier brewing stand.  As a result, this wonderful stand is up for sale.

A little bit about it:

The frame is 23" x 23" wide.  The 4" casters (2 of them swivel and have brakes) are kicked out a bit from the frame to add stability.  The two second tier shelves are bolted on and fold up into the frame as shown (the folded picture is pre-modification and only one shelf is shown).  The legs are fixed in place when in use with steel pins.  When in the storage position, one of the pins on each side holds the shelf nearly flush with the stand.  As a result, the storage footprint of the stand is about 24"x24".  The height is roughly 5 feet or maybe a bit less.  The casters add about 6" to the height

On the front of the stand along the bottom frame, there is a 3.5" x 3.5" steel plate on which I have mounted a march pump (pump not included).

Two Bayou Classic banjo burners (rated for 220,000 BTU according to the manufacturer) are included with this stand.  Each burner has a windscreen and functions well.  The burners are plumbed with 3/8" black pipe with individual ball valves to adjust the flame or shut the burner off.  These burners are currently set up to run on natural gas.  However, they can be easily modified to run on propane.  I have the hoses, orifices, and regulator to convert the stand back to propane (although there may be one small part that I have not accounted for yet, but which should be cheap to pick up---this is the male flared fitting that connects the black gas pipe to the propane hose.  If you wish to keep it set up for natural gas, please know that the jumper hose to connect the stand to the gas connection is not included.

I am currently using this stand to brew 10 gallon batches.  I have a 20 gallon kettle on the bottom tier and had to put small notches on one side of the frame to get it in there.  So if you want to go larger than a 20 gallon kettle, you would need to run the boil kettle on the top tier and the HLT on the bottom.  Because the pot supports are set close, you can pretty much go down in size on the kettle to whatever you need to do within reason.

Unless your brewing area is elevated, you will need a pump to brew on this stand.  The bottom tier is about 10" off the ground.  So while you can gravity feed all the way to the boil kettle, you will need a pump to get the beer to the fermenter.  I had a pump to whirlpool.  So I designed the stand to be compact and never worried about a 100% gravity set up.

Condition and Build.  This stand was built to last be a professional welder.  It is not made of old bed frames (not that there's anything wrong with that).  It weighs a couple of hundred pounds and can support a lot of weight.  It is painted with high temperature gloss stove paint, which has held up very well.  The pot supports obviously have paint missing and some surface rust.  If you paint these, you'll end up with nasty residue on the bottom of your kettle.  The flame is just too hot and it's best to just leave them alone.  There are a few other spots on the stand with very mild surface rust.  It just needs to be hit with a wire brush and touched up with stove paint.  I do this periodically and will probably give it a once over before the sale.

What's included:  The stand, the casters, the burners, the windscreens, the mount for the march pump, and the black pipe gas plumbing.

What's not included:  Everything else.

Location:  Tyler, Texas (about 80 miles east of Dallas on I-20).

Price:  $700 OBO

Remember, this brew stand, although in great shape, is used and, therefore, is sold "AS IS."  Pick up is the buyer's responsibility.  I wouldn't begin to know how to ship it.  I would probably be willing to deliver it for about $0.80 per mile within 75 miles of Tyler, TX (75703).  But I would want payment in full in advance if I were to do this to eliminate any possibility of negotiation after I had traveled any great distance.  I  have attempted to describe this stand to the best of my abilities.  However, I am not an engineer, a welder, or a brew stand expert (though I play one on TV).  If you have any questions please ask .  I will do my best to answer them or will tell you that I don't know the answer to your question.  Thanks for looking !

I have more pictures I can email if need be.  Any questions, please email me at dnortonames (at) yahoo (dot) com

Hanna Instruments pH Meter (HI98103)
Hanna Instruments pH Meter Storage Solution (HI70300)
Hanna Instruments pH Meter Calibration and Maintenance Solutions (4.01 pH & 7.01 pH) (HI77400P)
New in Box

I was ready to understand my mash and wort production better, and so I put together a shopping list to test the pH of my mash and wort.  Around that time (middle of 2011), one of my friends bought a similar set of equipment, and I ended up using his meter for a while.  I'm pretty dialed in and have stopped worrying about it most of the time.  So no reason for me to have my own set.  

This is the complete set, brand new in the original packaging.  Never opened.  All items are by Hanna Instruments.  Included in the set is one pH Meter (HI98103), one 500 ml bottle of storage solution (expires 2016) (HI70300), and one box containing calibration and maintenance solutions (4.01 pH and 7.01 pH) in sachets (HI77400P).  

$60 including shipping to the lower 48.

pH Meter Specs from Manufacturer:

Range:                                        0.00 to 14.00 pH

Resolution:                                       0.01 pH

Accuracy:                                   (@20°C) ±0.2 pH

Calibration:                                Manual, 2 points

Electrode:                                  HI 1270 (included)

Environment:                          0 to 50°C (32 to 122°F)

Relative Humidity:                           95% max

Battery type:                                2x1.5V alkaline

Battery life:                  approx. 3000 hours of continuous use

Dimensions:               66x50x25 mm (2.6x2.2x1") - (meter only)

Weight:                                         50 g (1.8 oz)



Any interest or questions, please email me at dnortonames [at] yahoo [dot] com.  I accept paypal.

Thanks for looking.

Classifieds / SOLD - 50' B3 Immersion Chiller - SOLD
« on: May 09, 2011, 03:59:11 AM »
Had it for a little over a year. Hose fittings. Works well, but I'm switching to a cfc.  $50 plus shipping.

Classifieds / SOLD: 10 Gallon MegaPot with Valve and Thermometer
« on: September 28, 2010, 04:28:21 PM »
I'm upsizing the brewery and am offering up my 10 gallon MegaPot purchased from Northern Brewer.  The pot has a stainless 1/2" weldless valve fitting.  Last year, I had a 1/2" female threaded port added above the valve to accommodate an mpt thermometer.  The thermometer is included as well as the lid.  

The pot has been used as a brew kettle and, later, as a hot liquor tank.  It is in great shape, but does have some discoloration on the bottom of the pot as well as the inside floor from normal use.  

I will add some better pictures later, but this is the kettle in action (prior to thermometer installation).

$160 plus actual shipping cost to be paid by buyer from zip code 75703.

I take paypal.

Please email me with any questions.  dnortonames (at) yahoo (dot) com.

I've got an oxygen question.  I recently picked up an O2 aeration system.  It came with the regulator, aeration stone, and about 2 feet of 3/8" tubing.  I ferment in a 15 gallon corny keg (tall and narrow).  I was able to get the stone under the surface of the wort, but not by much. 

Has anyone who ferments in kegs rigged something up to add oxygen through the liquid out dip tube.  I would have to ditch the aeration stone to do this, but figure I could get the O2 in from the bottom this way and get better coverage with it bubbling up through the entirety of the wort.  It would also be easier to sanitize since the dip tube is taken care of when I sanitize the keg.

Is there enough pressure on these disposable O2 bottles to push through the dip tube when the volume of wort will be pushing back to a point, so to speak.


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