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Topics - curtism1234

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1
Beer Recipes / Avery Rumpkin(ish)
« on: April 23, 2016, 05:27:57 PM »
I'm in love with this beer but not at $12 per 12oz...
It's an 18% a funky amber type ale brewed with pumpkin pie spices and rum barrel aged.

I don't have to hit it exactly. I'm thinking about building off of my tripel recipe with Wyeast 1214. I understand this may be a bit muddled, as is Avery. ABV about 8 1/2 prior to rum addition.

Something like:
71% Pilsner
13% Munich 10l
7% Carawheat 46l
9% Cascade Pumpkin Candi Syrup 12l
El Dorado 8 year rum to taste, probably around 6-8 ounces for my 3 gallon batch
Wyeast 1214

Any thoughts?

Thanks

2
Yeast and Fermentation / Bottling after 3068 Weihenstephan
« on: January 28, 2016, 03:25:32 PM »
Quick question; I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything because I think this is going to be a beautiful beer.

Never used this yeast before. It's been in the primary for 4 weeks. It's still a tad sulfury but it's cleaned up considerably from 2 weeks ago. I also know it's advertised as being powdery and takes time to fall out.

Is there any special care needed before bottling this (would it benefit from another week, secondary, or fining) or should I just proceed as normal 4 weeks and straight out of the primary?

Thanks

3
The Pub / Small new oak charred barrels
« on: December 30, 2015, 06:45:22 PM »
I couldn't find much in the search engine pertaining to aging whiskey.

I'm thinking about getting a 3-5 liter new oak charred barrel to age commercial moonshine, young brown whiskeys that have potential, and possibly scotch & rum. 

Does any of you have a barrel in that approx size and age spirits?
How do you like it?
How many times can you use it?
Can it really turn rail whiskey to top shelf?
Do you feel it's worth the $80 or so?

Thanks!

4
Beer Recipes / dunkelweizen
« on: October 08, 2015, 08:23:14 PM »
Here's what I'm thinking - and it's a little off from textbook.
3 gallon, 70% efficiency, 17.8 SRM
5.9ABV, projected OG 1.061, projected FG 1.015

3.0lb Red Wheat 42%
1.0lb Carawheat 14%
1.5lb Bohemian Pilsner 21%
1.5lb Munich 20l 21%
.13lb Pale Chocolate 200l 2%

Hops, prob magnum or hallertau in the 18-20ibu neighborhood

Wyeast 3333, hopefully leaning towards more banana notes.
Unless you persuade me to use the 3068 weihenstephan (a little concerned about the "This strain is very powdery and will remain in suspension for an extended amount of time following attenuation.")

Any concerns?
Thanks for taking a look

5
Yeast and Fermentation / Black Pepper bomb - Wyeast 3522 Belgian Ardennes?
« on: September 22, 2015, 04:44:33 PM »
I just bottled a Belgian Pale / Specialty Ale after using 3522 for the first time. It appears I made a black pepper bomb (3 weeks at 69-71 degrees).

I sampled it warm & cold and unfortunately did not like it at all. Obviously it's a wait and see game now, but do you think carbonation will tone that down much? How about time in the bottle?

Is this normal for this yeast? I remember when doing a bit of research that pepper was casually mentioned, but the yeast is a popular and balanced choice.

Thanks

6
Beer Recipes / Tweaking a Belgian Pale / Specialty Ale
« on: August 20, 2015, 09:00:44 PM »
I'm trying to put together a recipe using Azacca Hops (30ibu) and Wyeast 3787 or 3522. I'm shooting for 6-6.5% abv. I don't mind straying from style if it's a tasty beer.

The issues I'm running across are:
1. I'm going to be using Avangard Pale Ale malt, which I have not used before. Do I need to adjust down any Munich/Vienna malts since this is richer than American 2 Row?

2. My local store does not sell Caravienna, which I intended to use. Would 5% C-10, C-20, or perhaps Caramel Wheat work?
I don't want to go too far in this direction because I want to see how the Azacca hops blend in with the yeast, but wouldn't mind if there is a slight presence. Would you even suggest using crystal malt?
 

Here's a couple rough drafts just to give you an idea of what I'm thinking.   

70% Pale ale
20% Vienna
10% Munich

85% Pale ale
10% Munich
5% Crystal

Your experience is appreciated, thanks.

7
I visited Pensacola Bay Brewery in Florida last week (spectacular beer by the way) and thought their Kolsch was very unique from others I have tried. It had a very distinctive air and salty flavor - a California Common came to mind. Was this light sulfer?

They said it was a Munich yeast.

Any idea of what they may have used?

Thanks

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Carbonation problems/inconsistencies?
« on: June 30, 2015, 04:44:47 PM »
I am having a bit of a problem and am trying to diagnosis what's happening and find a solution. I have been brewing for 1 1/2 years with about 10 batches in.

The problem is about 1/3-1/2 of my batches are carbing very low and pouring with little / no head at all after 3 weeks in the bottle. It's an all or nothing situation - the entire batch is fine or the entire batch is flat.

This could happen with all-grain brewing as well as both of my extract brews. Sometimes wheat beers are not carbed (that was an extract) and sometimes 100% pilsner is fine. Bottle conditioning temp can range from 66-72, both with success and failure at both ends of the temp range.
I use carbonation drops but have also put cornsugar directly into each bottle, both with successes and failures. I have not disolved cornsugar into the entire batch and then bottled.

Yeast is generally Wyeast, though I have used dry. I do not do a starter but only do 2.5gal batches. Getting to my projected FG has not been a problem.

One thing that was brought to my attention by a friend is that I:
A. Handwash my fermentor with Palmolive dish soap, though before putting wort in I let 1step or sanstar soak for 30 minutes. I have not had off tastes nor problems hitting FG.
B. Clean my used bottles in the dishwasher (with regular dishes) with Finish powerball tablets, though I let them soak in 1step or sanstar before bottling.
Of course another friend of mine said since at least half of my batches are perfectly fine and my cleaning methods/materials are consistant so he didn't think it was the soap.

I don't use any sort of additives into my beer at any point during the process - just regular tap water.

Would oxygen in the beer cause any carbonation problems? I ferment in a MR BEER, pour the finished beer from the fermentor into a measuring cup, and then pour into the bottle. I've found it's less messy than trying to fill the bottle from the spigot. But I know I may have to alter how I bottle as it is unconventional (a cheap and easy fix but I just haven't done it). But does that contribute to the problem? Again, my process is consistant.   

What are some thoughts? Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you

9
Equipment and Software / 5 gallon Igloo mash tun is best for me?
« on: June 12, 2015, 09:16:03 PM »
I am currently doing BIAB, but my wife was nice enough to get a gift certificate to the homebrew store for my birthday so I'm going to pick a couple things up. They are not particullarly helpful there though...

Presently I'm doing 2.5 gallon batches but would like to increase that to 3-4 gallons to make it more worth my time. It's just me drinking it (giving a few away but it's mainly me) so I don't want to do 5 gallon batches at this time. Never say never to the 5 gallon though.

This all being said, is a 5 gallon cooler large enough to do 3-4 gallons of high gravity beer and 5 gallons of standard gravity?
My reading of websites and reviews show this will probably work just fine for what I'm looking to do.

For giggles, is a 10 gallon way too big to do say a standard gravity 3 gallon batch? Do the cons outweigh the indifferences as far the filtering capabilites?

Thank you

10
General Homebrew Discussion / First hop addition volcano
« on: May 17, 2015, 02:33:20 AM »
I knew it was going to happen and I did it anyway  :o

The wort was foamy to begin with and I threw in .5 ounce of pellets and I pretty much instantly had a huge mess.
I immediately panicked and added about .15 more ounces and then continued to mull over and change additions throughout.

I intended for 42ibu. If I lost 100% I still end up with a red rye ale of 25ibu and if I lost 0% I end up with 60 ibu --- either way it's probably drinkable.

Just a guess, what range of percentage of hops do you think I lost??? 

Thanks

11
Beer Recipes / Best Red X and rye?
« on: May 08, 2015, 04:55:07 PM »
Let me pick your brains on this.

I'm wanting to a red rye ale with falconers flight and the Best Red X seems interesting. I'm reading descriptions of it being munich-like. Do you think using this as a 80-85% base malt will muddy 15-20% rye or the combination is too heavy in the bready department?

I might use a little bit of other malts - thinking perhaps 5% C15 or C40 or even 2-3% smoked malt (just enough to question if it's there)?

Would you scrap this idea?
Keep it simple and use 2 ingredients?
Would you go with cara?
Would you go with smoke?

Thanks



12
Commercial Beer Reviews / Hop teabags in adjunct beers
« on: April 09, 2015, 08:58:38 PM »
I don't know if this has been discussed before or not but this seems (?) to be the most appropriate subforum.

Seems pretty easy to make at home.

http://www.foodandwine.com/fwx/drink/can-teabags-hops-save-you-crappy-light-beer

I do not often drink light beer willingly. I don’t want to wade into the debate of whether anyone should drink it, I just happen to dislike the taste. However, every once in a while at a wedding or a dive bar, I’ll have a bottle or two of something light. The experience is similarly watered down every time. But now a company wants to improve the light beer experience, and the process is as simple as making a cup of tea.

Hop Theory will sell sachets filled with hops, spices and citrus designed to infuse a pint the way you would a cup of tea. According to Hop Theory’s creator, the goal of the company is “to create a line of flavors that suit the taste buds of every living beer drinker.” That’s a lofty mission, especially considering how many excellent and unique beers are already on the market. But the idea isn't without a basis in actual brewing. The technique is actually similar to dry hopping (when hops or other ingredients are added after a beer’s fermentation), albeit on a much more condensed time scale.

Now let’s be clear, a dollar’s worth of hops in a teabag will not turn a can of pale lager into a 120 Minute IPA. But you could get a flavor and aroma boost in what is otherwise a mostly flavorless beer. And if you find yourself at a poorly stocked open bar, you might be glad you have a sachet in your pocket.

Hop Theory just recently began a Kickstarter that will run until May 9. You can find it here and purchase their first blend, which includes cascade hops, coriander and orange peel.

13
Beer Recipes / California Common malt ratio assistance
« on: April 03, 2015, 04:13:22 PM »
I have not made a lager before and this seems like the place to start.

I know this is not quite to style but I think it touches on some of the notes such as caramel, toast, and light fruit.

Gravities and color calculate out well

70% 2 row
10% Victory
10% Wheat (carbonation and head have been a problem in the past)
10% C-40

Wyeast 2112 Cali Lager

I am thinking of using Galena hops as I really enjoy them.

Are there any opinions or concerns about my plan?

Thank you

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