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Topics - Lager

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General Homebrew Discussion / DRY HOPPING
« on: November 03, 2014, 02:05:49 PM »
I made an IPL. already in the primary and it is towards the end of fermentation. I have added 1 oz of hops which I will keep on for 1 week, do a Diacetyl rest then transfer into a secondary. I want to add more hops in the secondary. I understand that the beer should be on a dosage of hops no longer than ~ 2 weeks but I want to lager for 4 weeks. would it be best to just transfer after two weeks in the secondary to a tertiary or just put the hops in on the last two weeks?
And what is the best way to prevent oxygen introduction? I usually put my hops in a bag weighted with SS nuts and then transfer the beer on it. but if I wait until the last two weeks of Lagering I will have to 'drop' the bag in.

« on: October 07, 2014, 06:36:53 AM »
I want to use a copper immersion chiller I have to recirculate wort. I have a 25' chiller that I have only used for a prechiller. I was thinking of putting it a pot of water that the temp would be controlled by heating with a burner when needed. I have a march pump so I can run the wort from the mash tun through the chiller and back in the MT. this would allow me to maintain and/or raise the temp as needed. I tried doing the same just recirculating through the mash tun with the heat under the MT but it gets a little tricky trying not to get hot spots or roast the grain. My question, would the fact that it is copper effect the taste of the wort?

Kegging and Bottling / bottling with fresh yeast
« on: September 17, 2013, 10:39:00 AM »
I am about to bottle a clone of RR Consecration that I brewed last year and has been sitting on bacteria and wood. It was a recipe available at More Beer. Vinnie C. states that he adds champagne yeast at bottling.
I used champagne yeast once for bottling a golden strong and had bottle bombs. So I want to get this correct since I have been waiting a year.
How do you go about adding the yeast at bottling? What amount for a 5g batch? Do I rehydrate? Any other steps to take?
I am planning on using thick wall Belgian bottles. Any particular temp I should condition at?
Thanks in advance

« on: April 24, 2013, 06:37:10 PM »
I would like to build a temperature controlled Mash Tun. If there is anyone out there that has a great resource for items such as a PID temp controllers, thermocouple probes, and SSRs. I have been looking but the PIDs I have found are at least $90, and most $150 or more. Is it really necessary to spend that kind of money?
Also, any information about matching the products would be helpful

« on: March 28, 2013, 07:27:50 AM »
I am making a Gose and have two questions concerning the use of acidulated malts
1.   When using acidulated malt, do I need to use a separate fermenter, tubing and so forth like you do when using bacterial cultures like Brettanomyces? (keeping in mind that I use Better Bottle and Speidel Plastic Fermenters
2.   One recipe I found and liked recommended doing an hour mash then adding the acidulated malt to the mash and mash for another hour [so the other grains can mash under ideal PH before introducing the acidulated malts. Could I get the same result by doing a steeping of the acidulated malts separately while the main mash is going {in order to save time} and just pour the steeping liquid into the boil kettle  during sparging? Will this get me the same result? 

Homebrew Clubs / Dues for Home Brew Club
« on: February 14, 2013, 10:56:29 AM »
Our club is starting to grow and we are thinking about starting dues. I was wondering if anyone who is part of an established club would be willing to answer a few questions
Does your club have Dues?
How much are they?
Is it mandatory?
Do you have an option for those who don’t want to pay dues but want to participate occasionally in club events? Such as paying per meeting or activity.
What do you do if someone who was a paying member doesn’t pay after a few reminders?
What if they end up showing up at your meetings or events, are they asked to leave?
Thank you in advance

Beer Recipes / Inclusion of other fermented beverages
« on: November 16, 2011, 10:56:25 AM »
Curiosity: You can ferment so many things, Honey, all types of on. Why is Mead and Cider included in beer sites, discussion, competitions and classifications such as the BJCP guidelines? Beer has been historically considered to include grain of some sort - usually barley. There might have been the odd exceptions throughout history, but I would submit that these exceptions are incorrect. Wine is wine because of the use of grapes. Beer is beer because of the types of grain and process, otherwise we should just call it all fermentable drinks and be all inclusive. Even certain "hard" liquors use grain (sometimes the same types), but we have kept them separate.
If it is just a matter of tradition or history of including Cider and Mead, it still doesn't make any sense and should really be reconsidered.

« on: November 11, 2011, 02:03:50 PM »
What is the "usual recommended" flow rate of wort from the mash into the boil? I know it could be important to efficiency and to channeling

Equipment and Software / Mash Tun insulation
« on: July 28, 2011, 01:24:32 PM »
The last discussion I found on this subject was in 09. Has anyone found a great way to insulate the mash tun. Maybe even something that is fire proof?

Yeast and Fermentation / UNDERPITCHING, Could it be desirable
« on: June 24, 2011, 08:16:29 AM »
I am going to brew a session strength Saison with O.G. of 1.045. I am using a French Saison yeast strain (3711) that is known to be a workhorse. It was shipped Tuesday and arrived today (Friday). I am sure that the ride in the delivery truck, especially to here in the south will do some damage. So I ordered two smack packs and 3 ice packs. I have ordered this way plenty times before and the pack always swells so I know there is some good yeast, just not 100%. My question is: I have heard that sometimes it is better to under pitch, especially with certain Belgian or German strains if you are really trying to make the yeast works harder which will help to develop their signature characteristic(s) even more. Is this true?
If it is true, considering the style I am brewing, the O.G., & the yeast strain what would you do to get the profile correct? Pitch one or two packs? Or a starter (with one pack)? I would really prefer not doing a starter, but is that the better option in terms of profile and flavor characteristic development?
Also the recommended temp for the yeast is 65-77 F. Would using a temp on or above the higher/lower range help to enhance the profile?

Ingredients / Sesame seeds
« on: April 13, 2011, 10:42:28 AM »
I want to toast then add sesame seeds to a summer blond ale. I am looking for both aroma and taste
More taste than aroma but neither one strong - just a mild enhancer/spice so to speak. I am not planning on doing an all-grain.
My questions: For a 6g batch, how much, when (if into the boil) and in: straight into the boil, steeping, or as a mini mash?

General Homebrew Discussion / HOPS IN THE KETTLE
« on: March 23, 2011, 02:12:10 PM »
This might be an old question but I can't seem to figure out how to find a particular topic.
There is always a lot of discussion about how to not transfer the hops from the boil kettle to the fermenter.
People use whirlpool, screens, filters and so on. What is wrong with just using a bag or a large enough SS tea ball to put you hops in. This would eliminate the large percentage of what we all are trying to keep out of the primary. Is there a drop in utilization, hop bitterness or aroma?

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