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Messages - jklinck

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Looking to buy one ticket to the national conference. Could be Full, Almost (no Thursday), Social, and/or banquet. If you have one to sell please post or email.

I have a full pass w/banquet if you're still interested.

Kegging and Bottling / Bottle pressure limits
« on: April 07, 2013, 10:34:02 AM »
Can you tell what the bottle pressure limit is by what its weight per oz is. Here are some different bottles and what they weigh per oz:

Sierra Nevada, 16.7g/oz
RR Pliny, 21.7g/oz
Green Flash, 25.8g/oz
Logsdon, 27.5g/oz
RR Temptation, 31.5g/oz
Orval, 31.6g/oz

The Green Flash bottles are 9.1g/oz heavier than Sierra Nevada. The Green Flash are only 1.7g/oz lighter than the Logsdon bottles which are usually very highly carbonated. I want to bottle some Saison at around 3.5 volumes of CO2. Do you think the Green Flash bottles will be fine?

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Brand new keg from
« on: April 07, 2013, 10:23:08 AM »
I'm going to try and ferment in a corny this weekend, see what happens. If it clogs, then I'll siphon it out and think about how to fix it. Many seem to swear by doing this. The Joe Klinck video doesn't say anything about messing with the dip tube.  Perhaps taking care to keep hops out of the fermentor would be a good idea. Otherwise, why wouldn't yeast push out?

I was loaded when I made that video, so I left a few things out. Some really clumpy yeast strains like WLP 007 will be more difficult to get the beer out but if you turn the pressure up a little it will clear. Otherwise most yeast strains you won't have an issue with. You need to keep hops out of the keg when fermenting otherwise they will clog it up and nothing will get out. I use a hop bag (paint straining bag) in the boil kettle and use those small hop bags for dry hopping.

aaaand the response.

I won't be visiting their brewery and frolf course.  The flavors they have are not from water or fresh hops.  What those customers are in love with is the experience of being at a farm brewery.  I tried. 

Mike ,
Thank You for your input. Our ales do have a distinct flavor since we use unconditioned well water and our own hops.
There are times when our crew taste the different ales and feel that there might be a problem with some of our brew and then a few customers come in and fall in love with it.
Thank you again for the input.

It doesn't sound like he knows what he's talking about and has little brewing experience, knowledge and/or a dead palate. What does unconditioned well water have to do with diacetyl or acetaldehyde? Plus those customers that fall in love the "off flavors" with may just be converting from BMC, which would make their opinion pretty much useless. Or maybe they're just being nice and will never return because the beer sucks.

General Homebrew Discussion / Brett Saison and bottle conditioning
« on: April 02, 2013, 09:55:14 AM »
I'm fermenting a clean Saison and will put a few mL of brettaonmyces starter into each bottle before capping (same thing that RR and SN did with Brux).

OG 1.055
Mostly pilsner and a little wheat and munich
34 IBU Rager, Magnum at 60 and some Hallertau at 10 min.
Primary Wyeast 3724
Secondary Wyeast 3711

I'm using two different yeasts because 3724 is very finicky and 3711 will tear through anything and get down to 1.002 in 10 days. Being that this will be a very dry beer to begin with and that I will be adding brettanomyces I want to avoid bottle bombs. I'm going to carbonate to around 3.2 volumes of CO2. Being that the FG will be around 1.002 will there be anything else for the brett to eat besides the priming sugar? And if the brett will possibly eat more sugars than just the priming sugar should I shoot for a lower volume of CO2. Let's say I want 3.2 but to shoot for 2.7 or 2.8 because the brett may eat other sugars?

All Grain Brewing / Re: build water from distilled
« on: March 30, 2013, 12:56:17 PM »
I recently listened to an old podcast from Basic Brewing Radio and they did an experiment using water built from R.O. specifically for stouts (dark beers) and one specifically for pale ales (light colored beers). They also brewed the pale ale with the stout water and vice versa. The results were that these beers didn't taste nearly as good when they were brewed with the wrong water.

My question is,  where can I go to find help building a water from R.O. for a particular type of beer?
Are there published standard formulas for water additions for each style of beer?

As far as I'm concerned trying to target water profiles is a waste of time. First you want to dial in your mash pH(Bru'n water, Bru'n water, did I mention this thing called Bru'n water), then use gypsum/calcium sulfate (CaSO4) for a hoppy beer, calcium chloride (CaCL) for a malty beer and half and half for a beer in the middle. That's all you need. The rest is a waste of time. And this is coming from one of the most analytic, detail oriented brewers you will ever meet. 

For dark beers I do the Gordon thing, mash the lighter colored malts (base malts, crystal malts, victory, biscuit, etc.) and throw the dark/roasted malts into the sparge water (or steep them) so they don't screw with your mash pH. 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Messin Wit Beer
« on: March 30, 2013, 12:22:44 PM »
Cool... Well since I am new I followed the 1.2.3 rule of primary secondary then bottle.. But right after I racked I read that most people skip this and jus leave it primary till bottling or keging... Im not at the keg level yet!

Im gonna let it sit for about 3 weeks then cold crash it and bottle.. Unless it clears up enough that I dont have to cold crash it..

Im hoping this will give it more honey and caramel flavor..

The sugar and honey will add a small amount of flavor but will mostly act to boost the alcohol. Honey and sugar are 100% fermentable. This means that the yeast will eat all the sugar they have to give. In malt there are some sugars that yeast cannot ferment and this is why beers do not ferment down to 1.00 or below (except a few saison yeasts). Thus the malt adds some residual sweetness and malt flavor.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Craft beer sociology
« on: March 29, 2013, 11:54:41 AM »
I think it's all of the above. There is also a going prepper movement. What's the point of surviving the zombie apocalypse if there's no beer. Followed by, now that o know how, how do I make it better?

"Freedom is temporary unless you are also Brave!" - Patriot

I always tell people if the world ends that I know how to make beer and am an excellent shot so I'm pretty much set.

The brewer and founder of a new farm brewery/hop farm in our area came to one of my clubs meetings recently.  They have an AMAZING story, great packaging, and seemed like great guys overall.   They are doing cool festivals, do a lot for their community, and have helped with legislative matters. 

Then we tried their beer....

Every one of them (4 different beers) produced on a 7bbl system were extremely flawed.  Acetaldehyde, fusels, lots of sulfur (?)...borderline offensive beer. 

They said they would love feedback, but I didn't necessarily feel comfortable sitting back, twirling my imaginary mustache, and asking them about pitch rates and yeast viability.  However I did ask them, "What yeast do you use in this beer", to which they both replied with quizzical looks.  Mind you, there was an amber, an IPA, a bitter, and a stout.  The reply was "one of the dry ones", but I'm not even sure they were fully confident in their answer. 

Part of me was thinking of emailing them privately and suggesting they get some formal sensory analysis done (politely).  I am awaiting my BJCP written exam grade, but am currently only a Provisional judge, so I'm not sure if that means me. 

Thoughts from pro brewers?   Homebrewers?

The President needs to create a new position called the Brewing Czar. Along with your TTB license you have to pass an oral interview with The Brewing Czar and they will evaluate your beer, brewing knowldege and tell you EXACTLY what they think. If your beer sucks and you don't know crap, then no license for you. They'll be told things like "don't re-apply until pitching rates and temperature control are no longer foreign ideas to you".

Ingredients / Re: simcoe, citra and amarillo
« on: March 29, 2013, 08:56:16 AM »
I am going to make a big an imperial ipa and I am going to use Simcoe (12.8 AA), Citra (14.1AA), and Amarillo (9.4AA) but I am unsure how to best utilize the bitterness and aroma to maximize each.  I have been brewing so many single hop beers to try to be able to recognize what each does that I am afraid using a combo of each I may lose something.  Here is the recipe and please feel free to give suggestions on how YOU would utilize these three hops in a single beer.

14   2   American Two-row Pale
1      Corn Sugar (Dextrose) (Boil)
   10   American Dextrin (Cara-Pils)
   10   American Crystal 40L

                        oz                             AA
boil   60 min   ½    Citra ~ pellet   14.1
boil   60 min   ½    Simcoe ~ pellet   12.8
boil   45 min   ½    Citra ~ pellet   14.1
boil   30 min   ½    Simcoe ~ pellet   12.8
boil   15 min   ½    Amarillo ~ pellet   9.4
boil   3 min           ½    Amarillo ~ pellet   9.4
boil   3 min           ½    Citra ~ pellet   14.1
boil   3 min           ½    Simcoe ~ pellet   12.8

Using (2) 11.5 GRAMS OF SAFALE 05

EST OG: 1.078
EST FG: 1.017

IBU: 78.5

there will be some dry hopping using the some of the same three hops.  Suggestions welcome on that aspect too.

Always appreciated.

Using IPA hops at 30, 45 and 60 is a complete waste. Move your 30/45/60 additions to your 3 min additions (1.5oz Citra and 1.5oz Simcoe at 3 min). Then get some cheap and readily available Magnum for your bittering.

On the dry hopping go light on the Citra because it really overpowers other hops. I would say 1oz Citra, 2oz Amarillo and 2oz Simcoe.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belle Saison Dry Yeast
« on: March 26, 2013, 03:44:05 PM »
Thanks, never used horizon before but will keep that in mind.

As far as Belgian brewers practices and homebrewers I will remind y'all we ain't Belgian brewers. ;)


The problem I have with an uncontrolled, high temperature ramp is keeping the temperature up as fermentation slows. I can get the temp up to 80F, but even in an insulated fridge with a brew belt, a 5 gal bucket of wort isnt enough thermal mass to hold that temp until fermentation is complete.

This is the main reason why (I think) I've had fusel/phenol problems with Belgian beers in the past. Its a double-edged sword.

Pitch too low or control to 'normal' ferm temps = too low of a flavor contribution from the yeast

Pitch to high or dont control temp = temp drop at end of ferment, stressed yeast, fusels/phenols, poor attenuation.

Is this just a balancing act I haven't mastered yet?

Pitch cool around 65F and raise the temp by 3F each day. I find using a desk lamp instead of a brew belt works better for heating a freezer, just put up some aluminum foil up to block the light if you are using a carboy.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belle Saison Dry Yeast
« on: March 26, 2013, 03:42:50 PM »

+1 to yso191 for yeasts and temps.

I just brewed with belle saison (nice to not mess  with a starter)
1.052-1002 in two weeks (1.008 week 1). 
Light grapefruit, citrus, dry, tart with med mouthfeel.
temps mid 66F - 74F

That looks very similar to Wyeast 3711 with the high attenuation at lower temperatures and med mouthfeel.

The AHA rally winers will brew with Rip Tide Brewing as the other brewery in the collaboration. Never heard of Rip Tide, but do know of one of the founders, a guy named Paul Sangster, Ninkasi winner 2011.

Rip Current.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing over Two days
« on: March 21, 2013, 02:39:45 PM »
I experimented with this a few years ago. Since I was making a saison I figured if the wort soured a little before the boil then it wouldn't be an issue. I mashed, sparged, boiled for 30 minutes, added some fermcap (foam control) and put the lid on the kettle while it was still boiling (the lid was already cleaned and sanitized). I left the lid on for a few seconds and would then check to see if the foam/hot break was rising. After doing this a few times I left the lid on for about ten seconds and then stopped boiling. I let the wort sort like this for 3 days. On my final brewday I tasted the wort and it had not soured at all. Since then I've done this many times with all kinds of different styles and have yet to have an issue. Being that the wort is essentially sterile from boiling for 30 minutes and the lid has been cleaned, sanitized and steam sterilized from the boil then there isn't really any way for bacteria to find it's way into the kettle. As long as you keep the lid in place.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Conference pointers
« on: February 10, 2013, 01:45:51 PM »
Crispy told me at a conference once that he sampled every beer at club night.  He used a very, very small glass.

I will say that these days I'm betting that would be an impossible task unless one was using a nano glass. I'm not even sure you could get around the taps in the time for club night.

Don't you recall Crispy's nano mug?  Can't be more than an oz.

Looks like I'm bringing a shot glass to Philly!

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