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Messages - goose

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I guess it's because I am anal retentive, but I disassemble each keg after it is empty and clean everything.  It gives me a chance to examine the hidden gaskets on the dip tubes and the the poppets as well.  I clean mine with a bulk tank cleaner that is used in the dairy industry.  You can also use PBW but I save that for cleaning my fermenter and brewing equipment since the dairy stuff is cheaper.  FYI, I do one keg at a time so I don't run into the issue of mixing the plugs between kegs.  I can usually clean a keg in about 5 minutes or so, including disassembly and reassembly.

Once the kegs are cleaned and rinsed three times, I pressurize them with a few psi of CO2 and store them until I am ready to use them (this allows me to test them to see if they hold pressure).  I them mix up 5 gallons of Saniclean in the keg, roll the keg on the floor and stand it upside down for about 5-10 minutes.  I also push down the beer out and gas in poppets and allow the dip tubes to fill with sanitizer.  When the keg is sanitized, I either pump the sanitizer into the next keg, if I am filling multiples, or into my Rubbermaid cooler for storage.  This way I can have relatively fresh sanitizer on hand for the next brew day.

You don't have to do this as often as I do, but this way I make sure that everything is totally cleaned.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mill Gap Settings
« on: December 24, 2015, 10:33:07 PM »
A credit card will get you close.

All Grain Brewing / Re: SS Brewtech pressurized transfers
« on: December 18, 2015, 02:49:33 PM »
Regarding plugging the ball lock on a corney with hop residue, I built a transfer system that uses an inline screen filter (you can get them from Grainger with either a 30, 50 or 80 mesh stainless screen) that works really well.  I use this every time I transfer a beer that has been dry hopped with pellets to a keg.  I haven't tried dry hopping in my half barrel chronical yet since I normally transfer to carboys for dry hopping so that the chronical can be used for the next batch of beer during the dry hopping period but plan to on a future batch.

As far as pressurized transfers from the chronical, it works great for me with a few PSI of CO2.  I set the sealed corney on a scale, open the relief valve,  and fill until the keg gets to about 49-49.5 lbs total weight and I'm done.  I tried filling to 50 lbs but that put the beer level right at the gas in tube in the keg and could cause some of the beer to come back into the CO2 line.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Florida
« on: December 18, 2015, 02:29:24 PM »
Also the St. Petersburg Brewing Co., Green Bench in St. Pete, and a relatively new one in Madiera Beach (Mad Beach Brewing Co.) (they had an interesting Agave Wheat that was pretty tasty).

All Grain Brewing / Re: Wyermann Dark Wheat
« on: November 16, 2015, 07:27:15 PM »
I was planning on using rice hulls due to the high proportion of wheat in the grain bill (just to be safe).  A bit of pils malt won't hurt either although I originally did not plan on any in the grain bill.

Thanks all!  That beer is #4 on the brewing list after my bourbon oaked oatmeal stout, munich helles, and baltic porter.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water Treatment for Export Stou
« on: November 16, 2015, 01:59:59 PM »
From what I read in Palmer and Kaminski's "Water" book Calcium Hydroxide (pickling lime) is recommended over Calcium Carbonate (chalk) as a water treatment since the phosphates in the mash will react with the chalk and precipitate out as apatite reducing the effectiveness of the chalk's effect on water alkalinity and the carbonate contribution.  Martin can weight in a bit more on this as well.  Plus, chalk is really hard to dissolve in water. (It becomes more soluble as the water temperature goes up but it is still a pain to work with).  I changed my water profiles to use pickling lime with Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) in small amounts instead of chalk for the alkalinity and carbonate adjustments in my  brewing water.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Wyermann Dark Wheat
« on: November 15, 2015, 04:26:46 PM »
Thanks for the responses.  My thought was to use about 50% dark wheat in the grain bill and then use munich and vienna and of course some carafa to make up the rest but that is just preliminary thinking on my part.  Of course I will have to do a protein rest with the dark wheat which is recommended by Wyermann, Northern Brewer, and others but I will consider using some pils in the grain bill to provide some of the extra enzymes.


All Grain Brewing / Re: Should I dryhop? - what say you?
« on: November 15, 2015, 04:21:53 PM »
I always dry hop my saisons although I do not use much (usually about a half ounce of hops per 5 gallons) so I do not overpower the other aromas in the beer.


All Grain Brewing / Wyermann Dark Wheat
« on: November 14, 2015, 04:40:40 PM »
Has anyone ever used Wyermann Dark Wheat malt in a beer?  I am thinking about using it in a Dunkelweizen and want to know the flavor characteristics of the malt.  If it is too toasty, I am going to shy away from it and use standard malted wheat.  So if anyone on this esteemed list can provide any helpful information on the malt, it would be greatly appreciated.

Although I have checked the "notify me of replies" box, please also reply to my e-mail address with your comments as I do not check this forum too often.



Yeast and Fermentation / Re: dry yeast for rye ipa
« on: February 27, 2013, 01:37:08 PM »
I am not sure about using T-58 for a Rye IPA, but I have never tried it either.  It might have a bit to much Belgian character for my taste.  I have always used S-05 for my IPA's because it is easier to work with than 1056 but it does not flocculate as well as I would like it to (i.e. as well as 1056).  S-04 would also be a good choice but as has been mentioned it does get somewhat estery if you ferment it on the warm side

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